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Showing results for tags 'yz250'.
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I took apart my yz 250 from 2002 to make a whole engine rebuild , and my 5th gear was slipping, after i took it apart my shift forks is pretty much worn, and i cant find it anywhere by it product number on it , the 5BE7 C10 is the worn one, can u guys give me a link with that part to buy? i found on ebay a listing with a yzf gearbox and it pretty much looks the same, is it compatible?
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Hey guys i have a 99’ Yz250 with a busted left side case and i was wondering if a 98’ left case would match up with my right one which is in decent condition. I found a 98’ case on Ebay for considerably lower than the one i found to match the 99’. please let me know ASAP! -
I have a 2021 kx450 and I am having really bad rear end swap over any braking bumps, acceleration bumps, and square edge bumps. The guys I ride with have told me my rear end is all over the place. Recently my rear end kicked hard left off the lip of a 3rd gear jump and sent me for a wild ride that I was lucky to walk away from with some scrapes and a little soreness. It doesn't kick up into my butt at all, just goes left to right. I'm always gripping super tight with my feet and legs trying to keep the bike center on acceleration or braking because it really is always a problem. I feel like it seems to be to the left first most of the time. (Not sure if that matters) The bike is in excellent shape. All maintenance done. No slack in the suspension, bearings, wheels etc. The bike is well maintained. I am a fast, aggressive, vet rider, 175 pounds. I am running the stock suspension settings other than forks up 2.5mm in clamps and +15ml oil in each of the front forks to help with bottoming. (another issue, hard bottoming forks) Suspension settings are: (mostly stock) Forks; rebound out 12, compression out 14, forks up 2.5 mm (stock, flush to top), oil level 325ml (stock, 310ml), tire pressure 13 psi Shock; rebound out 12, High-Speed 1.25 turns out, low-speed 18 out, sag 105, tire pressure 13 psi. I recently tried a 1/4 turn out on High-speed to soften the rear a little and maybe absorb more of the bumps but it actually made it worse. Which tends to make me think that I might be having packing issues. I am thinking I have a few options to try. 1. I could try stiffening the rear high and/or low speed compression. Maybe I'm blowing through the stroke due to being too soft and causing packing. Would that make sense if I find the front soft also? Maybe the rear is too soft too? 2. I can go out on the rebound dampening allowing the wheel to return faster potentially helping with the packing. 3. I can send my suspension away to have it revalved to be stiffer. If there is a fast rider that can comment on this option it would be appreciated. I feel like I am fairly decent rider and I ride with some fast guys but I am limited in my experience. All the guys I ride with won't ride my bike because it's too soft. I bottom out a lot, and hard sometimes. I over and under shoot jumps all the time. The thing is, it doesn't bother me other than how hard I bottom. It hurts the wrists and ankles. I am healthy, fit and strong and I feel like I can take harder landings if my suspension were up to it. Can stiffer suspension overall be the solution to this problem? Any comments here would be helpful. Thanks -
So, I just bought a 03’ YZ250F. It will crank up and idle rough, and when I give it throttle it’ll rev and stutter and then shut off. If I put it in gear and drive it just stalls. I noticed the Hot-Start cable isn’t installed, but there’s a hot-start plunger already stuck (kinda seized) in the port (without cable attached to it) ? Could that be the reason that it’s running so rough. I took the TPS sensor off and it idles exactly the same. It seems to be running very lean. Thankyou all in advance
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2 YZ 250's tearing up a loose hill in the national hill-climb event last week end.. See the 2 videos and "listen" to the difference of the engine's "note" .. You can also see the speed difference between them... Pretty interesting.. 1 YZ 250 1 YZ 250
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- YZ250Performancemods
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I recently bored my yz 250 engine from a 250-265. My head has been milled to match, and power valve shaved to proper tolerence. Bottom end was rebuilt at the same time. I am trying to dial in my jetting. It feels amazing from idle to high mid range, but when i get on top it feels flat. It just signs off when i feel it should have a little more. I am wondering if that is just characteristics of the bigger bore, or if its jetting? I am at 5000ish elevation. I have tried 168, 170, 172, 174 main jets with a 48 pilot jet nd stock needle in second position and havent got that top end back. Anyone else bored a motor and experienced this change? Or have advice?
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Hi all, I have a 2002 yz125 that blew the top end and took the cylinder out. An Athena standard bore replacement cylinder is much cheaper than an oem one. Is it possible to use an anthena standard bore cylinder with a stock head and piston? Or does the whole top end have to be an Athena kit? Any help would be greatly appreciated
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I have a 1996 yz250, I’ve been researching where to get an aftermarket boysen hi-flo cover and impeller set. Problem coming in when I am trying to find what years are compatible. Part number is 4sr-12422-00-00 , I have seen few to minimal spec and information regarding if I can purchase a 97-99 or even newer, pump systems. Want to be positive before I spend $200 plus on this needed upgrade. The pictures just give a confusing story on eBay, I can’t find another 96- anything pump, but the one I briefly saw said it fit through 98. The 98 gasket and impeller even look different though? Any insight I’d appreciated
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Hello all, I am seeking information on what year engines will fit my 1998 YZ250 frame. I have read many posts on 99 to current but didn't find any for 1998 frames. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I need an engine for what I am creating 🙂 or this bike.
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I have a 2015 yz250 that has V Force 3 reeds and a fmf turbine core 2. I'm wondering about jetting. My current jetting is 50 pilot, 185 main, 1 turn out on the fuel/air screw, clip on the second one down from the top and I'm at 500-1000 feet. Does that jetting sound about right? The bike runs great but seems that it might be rich on the main. Also i have an fmf fatty pipe that I want to put on at some point, should I jet for that too? -
Decided to take off the expansion chamber to check the piston out today. Did a rebuild 19.7 hours ago with a wiseco piston. How does this piston look? Is it almost time for a rebuild?
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I recently found this advertisement around my area on kijiji for a keihin carb for 50$ canadian. The owner states it’s off a 1984 cr 250. I was thinking for this price it would be worth it to have a spare. I’d obviously have to change the jetting and tune it. The carb itself looks exactly like the one on my bike at the moment. I was looking for a float for my yz 125, called the dealer and they said it was going to cost 90$, so I’m thinking it would be worth it to buy this carb for my yz 250 If it fits.
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Hey, so I decided to do the top end on my 05 yz 250. I replaced the top end gasket, the o rings on the head, the power valve case gasket and the piston and rings of course. After putting everything back together, I started having extremely high idling. Almost as though the throttle is wide open. I checked the throttle cable, and there seems to be no issues. It doesn’t stick, and completely closes as normal. And I never had any issues with this bike before. I also never touched the carb. My bike was idling perfect before the rebuild, and was driving perfectly. No issues before the rebuild. What could it be?
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First time changing the oil on this 2021 YZ250. Followed everything in the manual and went to remove the oil check bolt to insure I had enough. The manual calls for 7ft lbs of torque on that specific bolt. Not that it matters that much, but I decided to set my torque wrench to 7ft pounds and it screw it back in. Never really felt tight and the torque wrench never hit 7ftlbs of torque... then snap! the head broke clean off. I never felt like I had much pressure on the bolt but I'm guessing the torque wrench is probably finicky and I was better off tightening it by hand. But now I'm left with no washer and head... just the bolt stuck in the threads. And it looks like I have a subtle continuous leak and no way of removing this bolt. This is a brand new bike and the first oil change I've done on it. Does anyone have a solution on how to get the bolt out nice and clean and replace it? And am I okay to ride the bike like this?
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Hey guys, does anyone know how much horsepower aftermarket reeds would give a yz250? I have been looking at Boysen and VForce reeds for a little extra kick but im not sure if it adds horsepower. Any info would be far out, thanks guys.
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So my 1987 yz 250 starts, runs, and sounds fine. The issue I’ve been having is when I get on it and let off it doesn’t idle down that great until I let out the clutch. Even it neutral sometimes it’ll idle up a bit until I put it in gear and let of the clutch a bit to put load on it until the idle slows down. I can’t figure out what the problem could be.
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So i got a '92 bottom and top end and i was unable to find a '92 crank. So i look at part numbers and the '92 crank part number is 3XK-11400-01-00 and the '82 crank part number is 5X5-11400-00-00. From what ive read off of this post that as long as the characters from 4-8 are the same it should work. But here's the issue the bearings for a '92 don't fit on the '82 crank. but I cant get '82 bearings but will they fit in the '92 bottom end? Thanks in advance!
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Hello, interested to know if there are any Magura Hymec wizards here. I recently replaced the clutch basket and plates (steels and fibers) in my YZ250 with all oem parts. While the bike was apart, my buddy pulled my clutch lever and after putting it back together, the clutch was not disengaging. Lever pulled all the way to the bars and nothing. I double checked that all the washers and other parts were in place and everything was there. I used the same number of plates that were already in the bike. Upon further inspection, the pushrod is not making contact with the pressure plate. I took the pushrod and lever arm out to inspect and everything looks okay. I ended up putting an extra washer in there between the pushrod and pressure plate and it works “okay” but I feel like it’s a bandaid fix and something else is going on. I tried adjusting the lever position with no luck. I’m out of ideas at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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YZ250 2001 yz250 kickstart lever compatbility/options
ProjectDirtbikes posted a topic in Yamaha 2 Stroke
Hey everyone, i've got a question that seems to have been asked on TT before but not answered to my satisfaction. I'm looking at getting a new kickstart lever for my 01 yz250 and am wondering what other levers off other bikes fit and work well without modification. I think I remember hearing that there were years of the cr250f that would bold right on and work but just wanted to make sure. Thanks Picture of my clapped out yz250 project for attention. -
Hi all, I need to buy a new rear shock for my 2001 YZ250 and was wondering what all would work in its place? Like if a wr or 250f shock would also work. Just looking to broaden my search to hopefully get a better deal. Thanks Picture for attention (not me)- i'm not cool enough to have a mullet😢
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I have been a big fan of Kinger 317's Power Jet #40 jetting recipe and have been running his exact formula for nearly as long as I've owned my 2018 YZ250X with good results. I would endorse his formula for any head squish corrected YZ250 which -- while there are plenty of variants in the 71-page and counting thread (see below) -- I believe the starting point for the "Kinger 317 Power Jet #40" recipe is... 175 main / 45 pilot / 40 power jet / N3EW 3rd clip Kinger's recipe has been pretty much a year-round "set it and forget it" for me at 700-1,100 feet above sea level and 40F to 80F temps. And if the look of my piston at the 90-hour top end was any indication, it also offers top end longevity confidence. That said, I was following another thread (debating RK Tek and Apex heads) where someone suggested that those companies have jetting suggestions for their heads. So, I reached out to RK Tek (I have their head), sent them my details so they knew which of their heads I have, plus the range of conditions I ride in, and asked: "What jetting should I run?" The response I got was curious, which for the purpose of the rest of this thread I am going to code-name "Power Jet Zero" ... 180 main / 52 pilot / plug the power jet / NRG needle in middle clip (2016 Factory KTM 300 needle) I bought the various jets and plugged the power jet with a stainless steel 4mm set screw (from a set I found on Amazon for repairing all those doorknobs and towel racks that needs those sorts of things; I had to file it a bit shorter) Why, you might ask, if the bike is running well, why would I bother? Long story short, the weather has been crappy, so it was an excuse to fiddle with the bike and I was curious: could I make it run even better? With 6-days of rain on the horizon starting tomorrow, I did the jet swap last night and rode it today. Hmmm. I think I might like it better! Do not get me wrong, I was happy with the power jet 40 setup, but I think I'm gonna keep this one, at least for a while. What did I perceive as different? I will confess that the power jet 40 setup "sounds" crisper through the first 3/4 of throttle, but the power jet zero "felt" more a bit more linear and and without any points of hesitation. With the power jet 40 setup, I would sometimes notice maybe a tiny lag at that 1/4 throttle mark (I do not have the PV mod) as well what I always wondered was maybe some fall off at peak RPMs, whereas the power jet zero jetting, I seemed to have experienced a little less lag and I definitely perceived it better at high revs. Caveats: It could be today's weather conditions, so I will need to test it some more; and I'm not an experienced tuner, nor do I bother with things like plug chop tests, and "sound" vs "feel" makes sense to me as I try to recount the experience, but that may not make so much sense, so please take this information with a grain of salt! That said, I thought it was a curious idea to plug the power jet and wanted to share it for anyone who might want to try it.
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Help! I recently picked up this 1999 yz250. I am having a full wrench rabbit rebuild kit put in. What can I do to get most of this stuck gunk off of the clutch and everything inside. Last owner must’ve never changed the oil. I have to scrape it off. Any other ideas? Just wanna help clean it out some before dropping motor off at my mechanic for rebuild. Thanks!
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Hi, i need a parts bike for my 2001 yz 250 and one came up thats completely torn apart. It was stolen and had strait gas ran through it and blew it up. The owner got it back and tore it apart and now is looking to get $750 for it. Is that worth it? Heres a couple picts of it
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I bought my self a 2011 YZ 125 but the front forks needed re-chroming, I cant afford to re-chrome them so I bought a set of 2nd hand forks off a 2015 YZ 250. I was under the impression that they would slide straight in and all would be good but it seems not. I put the forks from the 250 into the 125 but the lugs appear to be different and the axle that was in the 125 doesn't fit the forks from the 250 - its to short. The 125 has Talon hubs which I'm not sue if they make a difference or not. I know the lugs on the 250 are stock but not so certain about the 125 lugs being stock. I'm also under the impression that the triple clamps on my 125 are off a different bike possibly because I've had problems with things fitting. I was wondering if this is an easy fix like just getting a longer axle i.e. 2015 yz250 stock axle or something harder like swapping the lugs around? Thanks 😊
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Just got a new bike. Its a yz250 and I love it! Any recommendations on how to set it up or things you guys would do to make it better? Heres my last video I made of my first ride on the beast.
