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Showing results for tags 'yzf'.
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My yz450f is backfiring, it’s always backfired as long as i’ve owned it but it’s just getting worse and worse despite seemingly running great. When I first got it it’d backfire occasionally then i let it sit for a couple months and after changed the oil, oil filter & air filter which were previously all very dirty. it ran a lot better after, but the more i ride it the worse the backfiring gets. if it helps the previous owner said he had tuned it down with the tuner to be slower however I don’t have a tuner to use on the bike to see. it also usually takes from 3-5 kicks to start
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Hey guys.Can anyone help me in this?I have 2002 yz250 and it started to cut throttle but just in 5th gear(it starts slowly and as you giving more throttle it cuts more and more).It feels like need some extra fuel or somewhat.But in other gears goes normal in any rpm.So i thought it might be 5th gear in tranny so i take it apart today and everything looks perfect inside.thank you in advance
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My 2018 yz250fx will idle and if I get on the throttle verrrry slowly it will jump from idle speed and low revs to high revs. If I give it say a quarter turn all at once it will cut off instantly. Where it started: Wouldn’t start one day so I put a full pump in it. Ran great for about 10 hours. In the middle of a ride it started spitting and popping. Started out infrequent and quiet and gradually got worse. I put a new top end in it (piston rings all new gaskets) and made sure valves were in spec thinking my head gasket was blown. Go to start it up and it’s doing this. Put a new fuel injector in it and it doesn’t fix a thing. Any help would be very appreciated thanks!
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Hey guys, i just bought a set of öhlins suspension for my yz 450F 2020. But i have a problem with the hole in the fork lugs, the hole that the axle goes through. The holes in it are 20 and 25 mm, and on the oem it’s 22 and 27mm… so do anyone know if it possible so just drill og machine the hole to the same size, or do i need to get an axle from the yz 2 stroke model, cause im pretty sure that is made to fit that model, and thats why the holes are smaller… hope you guys can help me out👌🏽
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I have 2003 yz250f forks that are beyond repair and have found a pair of 2002 yzf forks do you know if this will fit my bike . Or what other years will fit Thanks Dan
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Hi everyone, I’m looking into finally getting a full size big boy bike. But I’m torn do I get a four stroke or two stroke? I’m 14 5’10 and 130 pounds and still growing so the height won’t be a problem. I currently rip down the gravel roads on my cr85 big wheel. I will use my new bike for that but I also plan to do harescrambles sometime in the future. Tell me what you guys know/think I’m mostly looking at a yz125 or a crf250 but open to suggestions (and yes I do know how to jet for road so I won’t lock up a two stroke) Thanks
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Hi All, So I've had this bike about a year now and have slowly gotten it to run perfectly here in Austin, TX. Excellent throttle response, sounded great, only slight slight backfire on decel. The carb was absolutely dialed in for the bike and local conditions for the past 6 or so months until having this current issue. I then changed the throttle tube and grips before riding again, as well as stupidly put gas in it from a tank that may have been sitting for a couple weeks. Went to ride, started up first kick, sounded great. Rode the track for a bit, 3-4 laps, and then right in the middle of a table-top it sputtered and stalled...almost went over the handle bars 😬 Get it back to the pits, turn it off, come back to it a couple of minutes later and she starts back up first kick. However, now if I give it anything past idle it backfires like crazy, has no power behind it and just won't run right except for perfect start and idle. Get it back home and tear it apart, found the accelerator pump lever had snapped off, so I figured this was my culprit. Swapped it out and its a tiny bit better, but still essentially the same issues with starting perfectly and idling, but total backfire craziness if any throttle is applied. So then I began going through all the parts I thought could have an affect: -Drained potentially bad gas, put fresh in; No change -Checked timing; At spec -Checked valve clearances; Within spec -Checked Accelerator Pump to ensure strong stream, did O-ring mod with #78 O-ring; At spec -Checked spark plug; Not fowled, but swapped with new iridium anyways -Tested spark; Looks solid, good sized blue/purple arcs -Grounded out Neutral Switch to see if any difference with timing/rev limit; Nothing -Unplugged TPS to see if any difference; Nothing -Checked carb boot attached to cylinder head; No holes or major cracks, just very small surface crack, 1-2 of them. -Swapped CDI with known working 2009 YZ250F; No change -Checked hot start, which was upgraded to Tokyo Mods aluminum body, seemed everything should be okay, but put new O-Ring on to ensure air tight; No change At this point I'm really scratching my head...I took the carb off again and am going to go through it just to be sure everything is absolutely pristine on the inside, but suspect it is as I use an inline fuel filter and meticulously clean the bike after each run. The carb was also completely taken apart about 6 months ago and re-jetted, which is why its been so solid ever since. Zero starting/running issues. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! I have 2 2009 YZ250F's that both run perfectly, so I feel like I can swap parts from them to try and rule stuff out if needed too. Thanks ya'll!
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Hey everyone just curious if I could fit Yamaha yz plastics/tank on a Yamaha yzf 250 2002 model frame? cheers -
Hello, I have a unresolved issue about my 2005 yz250f, I bought this bike as a basket case. I rebuilt the top end and put in a big bore kit, the bike does run but no matter what changes I make to jetting (leaner or richer) the bike still sputters and cuts out in the range mentioned. I do have a aftermarket exhaust that came with the bike, a white brothers exhaust. I have a new carb on the bike and I have tried from stock jetting to leaner and richer jetting. Much help would be appreciated Thankyou! -
Hi all, I was lucky enough to buy a grenade of a 2014 yz450f I’m having some trouble getting the cams to line up properly to the head, I have just rebuilt the top end after timing chain failure, all new valves new piston and rings cam chain and tensioner. The intake looks to be lined up but the exhaust is either partially hidden or slightly high of the head surface. the compression feels noticeably better with the exhaust mark slightly off the head easing be to think that it’s closer to right there... is there a pin count on the cam chain on these 2014 an up 450s? I saw a YamahaTechAcademy video on YouTube stating that there should be 27 pins between the dots on the cams but that leaves me where I am with the dot off the head??? any help would be appreciated I just wanna go ride!!! cheers luke
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I have a 2015 yz250f and was wondering if a 2020 yz front fender and plate would fit right on
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Hi everybody, anyone sells the Kawasaki kx fi calibration kit? software cd + connection harness. Thanks ✌️
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So I got a new to me 2007 rm85. I took it to the shop to have the fork seals done and they tell me the forks are destroyed inside. So I had to order a new set on eBay. The set I got on eBay turn out to be for a kx85 and the bottom triple tree has a gap of about .25mm. So my question is, what should I do? Do I buy a kx triple tree? Do I buy ANOTHER set of rm85 forks off eBay? Or is there something I can do to jimmy rig it. i traded a perfectly good running dirt bike for this hunk of turd and now I’m already $500 deep in new spokes, truing the front wheel, wheel bearings, fork seals, forks and, labor. So a budget minded idea would be nice but anything is useful because I feel totally boned.
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so this will be my 1st post on any kind of forum so apologies in advance for any mistakes. i bought a 2005 YZ250F November of 2019, a few days after bringing it home i fired it up ready to go out and noticed once it had warmed up that the weep hole in the coolant pump was dripping slightly. so fast forward a few weeks after replacing the water pump seal i finally get to take it out. on low to mid throttle there was a severe intermittent loss of power, its difficult for me to explain as im new to bikes and dont really know much about them. i was told by afew people it was bogging down and could be a carb issue, ive owned pit bikes in the past and experienced bogging on those but this felt completely different, so i pulled apart the carb and it was abit of a mess, the main needle with the clip on is all pitted and discolored and all the jets have some sort of corrosion on them, the bottom of the bowl was stained with old fuel aswell as the floats so i cleaned them as best i could and took note of the jet sizes and are as follows: Leak Jet 95 Starter Jet 72 Pilot Jet 42 Main Jet 185 There is one other that i dont know the name of and it sits on the intake boot side and that is 100 To me it does not feel like a carb issue but im new like i say so not 100% so the other option i guess is a misfire? it happens low to mid revs but once you wind the power on past halfway the problem seems to dissapear and it runs fine. i dont ride track i just use it to bimble around fields so low to mid revs is really where im using it the most. i had a guy take a look at it and he instantly pointed toward electrics, he changed the spark plug from an iridium that came with he bike to a "standard" plug whatever that means. the bike idles better now and the harshness of the power loss isnt as bad but its deffo still there and is extremely annoying. he wanted to send away the whole electrical system to be tested but after he charged me £60 to change the plug i just took the bike back from him so this is where im at. kind of stuck and out of ideas so if anyone can point me in the right direction id really appreciate it. here is a video of the bike running as its easier to hear it than for me to try to explain it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kX3IMe02hPU&list=PLzb20LSJtfUspxohQBQ3dp-n6hW5P9ZSQ&index=3&t=20s
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I’m looking into flipping a 2001 yz250f (because it’s cheap.) and I wanted to make it look like a 2019 (or just newer). Is there anywhere that makes a restyle/update kit for something that old? There’s also a 2003 i’m looking at but it’s blown rather then just needs a valve adjustment. Would that be a better option?
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2005 KDX200, transmission oil looked milky so we rebuilt the whole water pump (mechanical seal, bearing, whatever other seals are in there. oil is still milky when I drain it. through the sight glass window it looks normal until after a ride in which it looks black but then it drains as milky white color. What could be the source of this? I figure coolant is mixing with it somewhere.
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I have a 2008 YZ450F with the stock Keihin FCR MX 39 carburator. The mods that I know the bike has are a new FMF PC4 pipe with no spark arrestor and a aftermarket header pipe that looks to be just an OE replacement. I have already done the O-ring mod the the carb and have thoroughly cleaned and replaced all the gaskets. I also just re-shimmed the bike and checked the timing and everything is in spec, she starts as easy as a 2 stroke now and runs VERY well in everywhere but from idle to the first 1/8th throttle any maybe just a bit beyond that. There is a lot of popping and it sounds like it is breathing decently hard. My jetting specs Main jet: 160 Pilot:50 (sounds rich I know) Needle: NFLR 4th position Leak jet:55 Starter:72 Fuel Screw:1.5 (when I adjust this it hardly changes anything) So for the jetting changes I make if I put everything close to stock it runs very lean! So the bike runs amazing everywhere but that first bit so I was thinking about changing the needle diameter but I have NO idea on how to decode the Keihin charts and would appreciate some help I want the same needle specs as my OE needle but with the diameter being just a tad more on the rich side. From what I have seen here https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/needle_keihin_N427-OC_FCR_35-41mm.html Changing the diameter to more rich would help fix my issue. I may be too stupid to read that chart or something but help is appreciated, thank you!!
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In case you haven't seen the recurrence of woods riders destroying their wrists while riding with wrap around handguards here's a photo of a member who did such. Now, since we know this can happen with wrap arounds, what are the consequences of flag style? How often, if it all, do users smash their fingers? What's the best pair of flag style handguards, for woods specifically. DirtbikeChannel on youtube said that the Cycra rebounds are a lot stiffer than most flag style, is that true? What are some stiffer style flag hand guards looking to avoid breaking my wrists and fingers.
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I have an 2006 yz 125 that needs a rear shock and A guy has a 08 yz450f rear shock. does anyone know if it will bolt up to my yz 125 and be fine to ride? -
I have a Voss helmet and really like it I was wondering if anyone else has experience with their products and what they think.
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I picked this bike up barley running. It would only roll start and when with was running it was popping a lot and would hardly idle (had to blip the throttle to keep it alive). At this time it was missing the air boot clamp to the carb and the hot start contraption on the carb was broken off in the carb. since then: New Intake valves (I did not cut them in) shimmed with in spec new top end gaskets carb rebuild kit (main jet: 160 pilot jet 45 currenty. also tried a series of combinations with 160, 165, and 42,45, 48) adjusted float level (with out weight of float on spring) and put a clamp on the air intake boot. now when I start it (mj:160 and pj:45) runs okay on choke dies when I take it off. When I had the mj165 and pj48 ran perfect on choke and idled fine with out choke but then died when giving it throttle. Process with fuel and air screw i used (the fuel screw i believe on the bottom of the carb bowl start woith 1.5 turns out and slowly work my way out to 2.5 turns out; while the screw on the side controlling the throttle i start with all the way in and work my way out) I am at 2100 feet above see level. Main problem still: will only run on choke with bigger jets and worse idling with smalller jets and more popping. If someone could point me in a direction I would greatly appreciate it! This bike is driving me insane
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Hi guys. I am looking at purchasing a new yzf. Im deciding between the 2018 and 2019. 2019 has loads of changes. Will they be very noticeable? should i just get a 18 now or wait for a 19. What do yous think.
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Just replaced my entire suspension and the forks are very stiff even when loosened all the way. I was wondering if the forks just needed to be ridden on to break them in.
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Hey guys I just bought a bike last night. So the seller said the bike will turn on but then die. We didn't try it because it was really late at night and it was raining (seat was wet). But he said if you bump start it, it will turn on and ride. So what do you think the problem is? I just want to make sure it runs... I probably won't be able to bump start it till Saturday (rain)... It's a four stroke, and I know absolutely nothing about them. Thanks.
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Please help! I recently bought a Yz250f and have not been able to start it, it Has spark, but there are many issues with the carby which I wanna rule out before I leap into a rebuild, ( I want to avoid a rebuild if possible as I’m low on cash). The carby at the moment is a complete mess so the usual steps to fixing it might not work. So here’s the deal with the carb: - It’s leaking fuel from overflow ( really fast! ) and when I mean really fast, I mean it emptied my fuel tank in 2 mins. - It has a slow leak coming from somewhere under the float bowl - the air fuel screw is not adjusted correctly - I don’t know if the electrics work on it either - I don’t even know if it’s shooting fuel into the cylinder or not, as after kicking it a couple times and it’s not starting I remove the spark plug and it’s still dry. ( I tried putting fuel directly into cylinder from the spark plug hole but the bike still wouldn’t start) okay so I know it’s a lot but I’m not expecting anyone to answer every single question themselves. If each person could tackle whatever problem they know it would help heaps. Also just want to know what Order to fix things in as I can’t do air fuel until the bike is running and it won’t run unless I stop the leaking and get it to spray fuel into the cylinder. And buying a new carby is not an option ( I’ve got $40 to my name atm). Please help guys thanks.
