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Found 10 results

  1. I have recently been having problems with my honda mtx 125. It will run great for 10 minutes then it will die on me if i give it any throttle. The bike will idle fine but cuts out if I give it any gas. When I let it Idle for 1 minute it will work fine for another few minutes then the same problem happens. I have adjusted the carburetor many times to see if it was because its too lean or rich but the problem happens either way. I am running 40:1 fuel mixture. I recently replaced the head gasket and I noticed the piston needs replacing as its very worn, could this be the problem? Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated!
  2. Attention two-stroke riders! For a limited time, Wiseco is offering to let you choose up to two FREE items with proof of two-stroke piston(s) purchase! Read on for all the details on this offer. Who doesn't love the sound, smell, and fun of a two-stroke? Wiseco has a new rebate offer just for the two-stroke lovers! For a limited time, Wiseco will be offering your choice of up to TWO (2) different free items with a minimum purchase of any off-road bike or ATV Wiseco two-stroke shelf piston(s)! Choose from our new high-quality, modern-fit Wiseco T-shirts, the new Wiseco Patch hat, or a top end gasket kit! Simply pay a flat $10 shipping fee. Click here to go to the Two-For-Two-Stroke rebate form! How does the rebate work? To participate, follow the instructions below. Purchases must be made between TWOsday August 28th and TWOsday October 30th, and redeemed by November 30th. Purchase a minimum of $118 of any new off-road bike or ATV Wiseco two-stroke shelf piston(s) for ONE (1) FREE item, or a minimum of $165 for TWO (2) FREE items. Save your receipt/proof of purchase and piston box. Scan or take a photo of the proof of purchase and the piston box label showing the part number, and upload to the online rebate form. Click here to go to the online rebate form, fill it out completely with all required information, be sure photos from step 3 are uploaded, and submit. Allow 1-2 business days to be contacted by a Wiseco representative, pay a flat $10 shipping fee, and allow 4-6 weeks for your free item(s)! This is an example of the piston box label you will need to upload a photo of. The free item options include our new, high-quality modern-fit T-shirts! Click here to find Wiseco two-stroke pistons for your application! All Wiseco two-stroke pistons are forged in-house for added strength and durability, and are available for wide variety of applications. Wiseco Two-Stroke Racer Elite Wiseco's latest development in two-stroke piston technology is the Two-Stroke Racer Elite piston. These pistons are forged from a 2000 series alloy for additional strength qualities, and protected by Wiseco's ArmorPlating coating on the piston crown and in the ring groove(s) for long-term protection from corrosive combustion chamber conditions. Watch the video and get the complete details on Two-Stroke Racer Elite HERE. Don't forget! Some two-stroke pistons require exhaust bridge lubrication holes to be drilled in the piston, and the exhaust bridge on the cylinder to be relieved. Not sure if you need this, or need help completing these tasks? We explain it all HERE. Do you know the importance of exhaust bridge relief and lubrication holes? Review our full explanation here! Check out some more of our awesome two-stroke content! Dirt Bike Mag YZ125 Build 80+ HP Two-Stroke Karts Wiseco Employee-Built 390cc TRX KTM TPi Two-Stroke Pistons What is a Locating Pin? Wiseco "Two-For-Two-Stroke" Rebate Terms & Conditions Purchase at least $118 worth of any offroad bike or ATV Wiseco two-stroke shelf piston(s) from any dealer or retailer between August 28, 2018 and October 30, 2018 and receive your choice of one out of four available items, or purchase at least $165 under the same stipulations above for your choice of two out of four available items, after online form submission. When applicable, two chosen items must be different, one item cannot be doubled-up. Wiseco two-stroke piston kits and PK kits eligible. Purchased dollar amount minimum must be met completely by Wiseco two-stroke piston product. $10 shipping fee applies to free items. Final shirt and hat colors and designs may not exactly reflect items pictured in promotion images. Promotion does not apply to custom pistons. Minimum purchase amounts at retail value only. Rebate form must be submitted electronically at www.wiseco.com/promo with all required information. Must provide photos or scan of proof of purchase and piston box label showing part number. Allow 4-6 weeks to receive your chosen items. Offer must be redeemed by November 30, 2018. Offer good only in 48 contiguous states. Limit one rebate per eligible purchase, per household. Maximum number of free items is two. Free gasket kit limited to a retail value of $69.00. P.O. Box address not accepted. Must be 18 years of age. This rebate offer is valid for end consumers only and not available to distributors, dealers, resellers, retailers or e-tailers. Offer void where prohibited, taxed or restricted by law. Please keep a copy of your submission. Substitution of products not valid. Qualifying products cannot be returned to the retailer once the rebate form has been submitted. Offer has no cash value. No substitutions. Void where prohibited by law.
  3. Find out how to relieve an exhaust bridge and drill lubrication holes in 2 stroke applications, so you can get the most out of your piston! When you order a new Wiseco 2-stroke piston and open up the box and read the instructions, you might see something like “follow these steps to drill the lubrication holes.” There’s no doubt that the thought of drilling holes in your new piston can be scary and intimidating. But not to worry! We’ll get you through it right here with all the information you need and a step-by-step. Relieving the exhaust bridge and drilling lubrication holes is a common part of the 2-stroke top end replacement process, but the importance of performing these steps is unrealized by many and neglected too often. Drilling lubrication holes is a simple but important process for many 2 stroke applications. So, what is an exhaust bridge? First things first, not all 2-stroke cylinders have an exhaust bridge. So if your cylinder does not have one, drilling holes in your piston is not necessary. The exhaust bridge is the thin strip of metal that separates the exhaust ports in the cylinder. Whether you look into the exhaust ports through the exhaust outlet or through the cylinder bore, if you see a thin metal wall separating your exhaust ports, that is your exhaust bridge. For the purpose of installing a new Wiseco piston, the area of concern is the edge of the exhaust bridge on the inside of the cylinder bore. The exhaust bridge is the edge of the wall separating the exhaust ports on some 2 stroke cylinders. Why do I need to relieve the exhaust bridge? Now that we know what the exhaust bridge is, it’s important to understand why we feel this machine work is essential to replacing a 2-stroke top end. The most heat in your motor is generated from combustion in the cylinder during normal operation. Specifically, the exhaust port(s) of the cylinder are exposed to the most heat because this is the only way out for the hot gas produced during combustion. This means that under normal running conditions, your piston and your exhaust bridge are constantly under the pressure of extreme heat. Wiseco pistons are made from forged aluminum, which offers more strength and reliability, but also expands faster under heat than an OEM cast piston. The exhaust bridge will also expand more than the rest of the cylinder because it is such a thin structure. The lack of material makes it harder for heat to dissipate before it affects the aluminum and causes expansion. Expansion under heat is normal, but must be compensated for to make sure you get the most life and best performance out of your top end. Relieving the exhaust bridge simply means taking a small amount of material off the face the bridge in order to make room for expansion. If there wasn't any extra clearance, the exhaust bridge would expand past the cylinder wall once your motor heats up. This leads to scoring on the piston as it comes into contact with the exhaust bridge, especially as the piston expands at the same time. Notice the small amount of material taken off of the exhaust bridge, and the blending back into the cylinder. Read below on how to accomplish this. Relieving the Exhaust Bridge Now that we have some understanding established, let’s go through how to get it done. As always, if you don’t feel comfortable doing this work, this can commonly be done by the shop performing your cylinder work. If you have the rights tools, this can be done in the garage on cast iron and steel cylinder bore liners. We recommend using a die grinder with a small sanding roll to gently remove .003” of material off the cylinder wall face of the exhaust bridge. After the material is removed, the machining must be blended with the rest of the cylinder wall at the top and bottom of the exhaust bridge. You want to make sure there’s an easy slope for the piston ring to slide over when entering and exiting the exhaust bridge relief. If your cylinder is lined with Nikasil, this process will not work because that material is too hard. Your exhaust bridge must be relieved before being lined with Nikasil to achieve the same result. Check with the shop you choose for your cylinder work if you are unsure. Why do I need to drill holes in my piston? Relieving the exhaust bridge will make sure there’s no expansion past the cylinder wall, but we still want to make sure we keep the heat as low as possible. With small holes drilled into the skirt of the piston, oil underneath the piston will makes its way through the holes, and lubricate the contact point between the piston and exhaust bridge. Better lubrication means less friction, and less friction means less heat, which is what we want to make sure we don’t have any abnormal wear. Drilling Lubrication Holes Make sure you have the instruction sheet that came with your new piston. This drilling information can also be found there, complete with a visual diagram. Be prepared with your instruction sheet. 1. Install the piston and wrist pin on the connecting rod with one circlip. Make sure the arrow stamped on the dome of the piston is facing the exhaust side of the cylinder. 2. Slide the cylinder over the piston until the cylinder is in its normal position on the crankcase. Temporarily install the piston on the connecting rod and slide the cylinder over the piston. 3. Slowly turn the engine over until the bottom ring groove (or the only ring groove if your piston has only one) on the piston is at the top of the exhaust bridge. You can look through the exhaust port of the cylinder to help know when the piston is in the correct spot. 4. Go through the exhaust port with a pencil and trace a line on the piston skirt for each side of the exhaust bridge. Trace two lines on the piston, one on each side of the exhaust bridge. 5. Once the lines are traced and visible, remove the cylinder and the piston. 6. Start .300” below the bottom ring groove and mark two points .375” apart from each other. Make sure the points are centered horizontally between the two lines you traced. Use the proper measurements to mark 2 points for the holes to be drilled. 7. Drill two holes .060” - .090” in diameter (1/16” or 5/64” drill bit) on your marked points (one hole on each point). Drill holes on your marked points with one of the specified drill bits. 8. Remove all burrs from drilling the lubrication holes. On the inside of the piston, lightly sand with 400-600 grit sand paper. On the outside of the piston, use a ¼” drill bit and twirl it between your fingers over the holes you drilled to break away any edges and imperfections. 9. Wash the cylinder and piston with soap and water, and use compressed air to remove any water and debris. 10. Wipe the cylinder wall with light coat of oil. Whichever 2-cycle oil you normally use is fine. 11. Continue your top end rebuild as normal. This is how your final product should look all cleaned up and deburred. Why doesn't Wiseco pre-drill the holes in the pistons during manufacturing? Some Wiseco two-stroke pistons do come with these lubrication holes pre-drilled. However, there are certain applications that use the same piston across a wide range of model years, but the location of the exhaust ports across those years changes. Therefore, while the piston remains the same, the location of the lubrication holes will vary based the specific year cylinder for certain applications. Want to see the latest in 2-stroke piston technology? Read about the Wiseco 2-Stroke Racer Elite pistons here. See all that Wiseco has to offer for your 2-stroke here.
  4. I have a 1975 Honda MT250. It’s a 2 stroke with oil injection. I was wondering if it’s ok to stay at a constant high rpm on the street. At 50mph the engine is around 5500rpm and has a 7000rpm redline on the tach. The bike was street legal from the factory and I’d assume that because the engine has oil injection rather than premix that it would be fine.
  5. Carson Tollefson

    KDX 200

    So basically I’m a complete idiot and just bought a new carburetor about a month ago, (PWK 35mm Keihin Carb) for my 1993 KDX 200. I put it in, worked great nothing wrong. However, last night I was out practicing my wheelies, and I totally dumped off the back of the bike and it fell on its side. It was leaking gas out of the overflow like it should. However when I got the bike back up and started running again, I ran into a problem. It won’t stop leaking out of the overflow unless the fuel is off... I don’t know what to do. Is it possible that the needle and seat got messed up from the bike hitting the ground? Or is there a complete other reason why it could be doing this? I’m unsure what to do at this point and I’m searching for help... I love riding just as much as the next guy but this bike is becoming a hassle and I’m sinking a lot of money into it.
  6. Jared Keller

    YAMAHA RT 180 PERFORMACE MODS????

    I have a 1997 or 1998 Yamaha RT 180 and I was wondering if there were any mods I could do to get more power and a higher top speed, also... Can I put a aftermarket pipe on it All Reccomendations Appreciated!! Jared
  7. Tarron

    2003 YZ250

    NO HATE OR SMARTARSE. Hi all, i have recently bought a 2003 yz250. I have gotten it freighted so i have only looked at photos and a video of a start although, those don't prove much. I have a couple of questions if anyone can help me please do. If you have had the same year or similar and model please tell me what you ran? PLEASE NOTE - I LIVE IN AUSTRALIA. 1. Because i have gotten it freighted, the fuel has been drained. A mate wants to test the gears and some other stuff, so i am going to buy 3l of fuel to test, what ratio should i mix at and what fuel and oil should i use? 2. I'm riding in the bush with a couple of mates on 250 2 strokes, there will be quite alot of dirty,dust,rocks etc, what would be the best air filter and oil? 3. I wouldn't consider myself a pro rider but, I ride fairly hard, I want the bike to be healthy and in good condition. I don't want to replace the top end for at least 40+ hrs. What would be the best fuel to oil ratio, and what would be the best fuel and oil to mix with? 4. I plan on doing a top end, service, power valve and carb clean and maybe add v force reeds (if gears and the other stuff are good) Watched a couple youtube videos of top ends and they look easy, power valve looks a little hard but i think i can do it, have never cleaned a carb on a 250 so not sure what to do. If i added vforce reeds would it need to be jetted? (Don't know how to jet either) Think that is it for now. I LIVE IN AUSTRALIA.. Thank you
  8. ColeMystrom

    CR250 Compression Loss

    Hey guys, My buddy and I just finished rebuilding his 1998 CR250 which we bought with a broken connecting rod. We replaced the main bearings, crank, gaskets, seals, piston, and the cylinder bored and honed to match the new piston. I did a compression test before it ever started and read about 150 PSI. Then we started it. Ran well, but wanted to die whenever we hit the powerband (this is after we let it idle to break in the seals for twenty minutes) anyway it died a couple times always started right back up until it didn't. I did another compression test and got about 90 PSI. I refuse to believe the rings are stuck, but I guess it is possible. I took the head off and the piston looks fine. Oh also we found some small beads of coolant around the head. I ordered another head gasket (OEM) since I read that the tusk head gaskets don't work great. That won't be here until next week so I thought I'd ask you guys if I'm on the right track in the meantime. Thanks.
  9. Wiseco's new Garage Buddy engine rebuild kits offer everything you need for a bottom and top end rebuild. From the crank to the piston kit, and even an hour meter to track maintenance, everything is included in one box. Here we take a look at the components included, and the technology behind them. So, the time has come for an engine rebuild. Hopefully it’s being done as a practice of proper maintenance, but for many it will be because of an engine failure. Whether the bottom end, top end, or both went out, the first step is to disassemble and inspect. After determining any damage done to engine cases or the cylinder, and arranging for those to be repaired/replaced, you’re faced with choosing what internal engine components to buy, where to get them, and how much the costs are going to add up. A full engine rebuild is a serious job and requires a lot of parts to be replaced, especially in four-strokes. You have to think of bottom end bearings and seals, a crankshaft assembly, piston, rings, clips, wristpin, and the plethora of gaskets required for reassembly. If you’re doing this rebuild yourself, or having your local shop do the labor, chances are you don’t have a factory team budget to spend on parts. However, you know you want high-quality and durable parts, because you don’t want to find yourself doing this again anytime soon. Rebuilding a dirt bike engine is an involved job, requiring many parts to be replaced. Missing one seal or gasket can put the whole rebuild on hold. You could source all the different parts you need from different vendors to find the best combination of quality and affordability. But, it can get frustrating when 6 different packages are coming from 6 different vendors at different times, and each one relies on the next for you to complete your rebuild. Wiseco is one of the manufacturers that has been offering top end kits (including piston, rings, clips, gaskets, and seals) all in one box, under one part number for many years. Complete bottom end rebuild kits are also available from Wiseco, with all necessary parts under one part number. So, it seemed like a no brainer to combine the top and bottom end kits, and throw in a couple extra goodies to make your complete engine rebuild in your garage as hassle free as possible. Top-end piston kits and bottom-end kits come together to create Wiseco Garage Buddy rebuild kits. Wiseco Garage Buddy kits are exactly as the name implies, the buddy you want to have in your garage that has everything ready to go for your engine rebuild. Garage Buddy engine rebuild kits come with all parts needed to rebuild the bottom and top end, plus an hour meter—with a Garage Buddy specific decal—to track critical maintenance intervals and identify your rebuild as a Garage Buddy rebuild. The kits include: Crankshaft assembly OEM quality main bearings All engine gaskets, seals, and O-rings Wiseco standard series forged piston kit (piston, ring(s), pin, clips) Small end bearing (for two-strokes) Cam chain (for four-strokes) Hour meter with mounting bracket and hour meter decal Open up a Garage Buddy kit, and you'll find all the components you need to rebuild your bottom and top end. 2-stroke and 4-stroke Whether your machine of choice is a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke, Wiseco can help you with your rebuild. 2-stroke Wiseco Garage Buddy kits include everything listed above, featuring a Wiseco forged Pro-Lite piston kit. You don’t even have to worry about sourcing a small-end bearing, that’s included too. 2-stroke fans often brag about the ability to rebuild their bikes so much cheaper than their 4-stroke counterparts, and they’ll have even more ammo for bragging now with these kits starting in the $400 range. A Wiseco 2-stroke Garage Buddy kit includes all the parts you'll need for piston and crankshaft replacement, plus an hour meter to track your next maintenance intervals. However, don’t abandon your 4-stroke yet. Many riders cringe—and rightfully so—at the thought of rebuilding their 4-stroke because of the costs associated, but Wiseco 4-stroke Garage Buddy kits starting in the $600s takes a lot of sting off your rebuild project. They even include a new timing chain. No matter what you’re rebuilding, you’ll be able to track key maintenance intervals for your fresh engine with the Wiseco hour meter and log book that’s included in the Garage Buddy kits. All Garage Buddy kits include a specific hour meter decal as well, which is important for the limited warranty to identify the rebuild as a Garage Buddy rebuild. A Wiseco 4-stroke Garage Buddy kit includes all the parts you'll need for piston and crankshaft replacement, including a cam chain and an hour meter. Ease of ordering Wiseco Garage Buddy kits come with the listed parts boxed up in one box, and listed under one part number, which makes it nice to not have to worry about if you might’ve missed something when ordering. Simply find the single part number for your model, order, and you’re on your way to brand new performance. Quality Performance, backed by a Limited Warranty Ordering convenience doesn’t make a difference if the parts do not provide quality and reliability. Wiseco crankshafts are designed completely by in-house engineers, who determine all assembled dimensions, clearances, materials, and specifications. These specifications have been determined from R&D tests such as hand inspection, dyno, and failure analysis. Once Wiseco cranks have been manufactured to exact specifications they are batch inspected, and critical tolerances and dimensions are measured. Major inspections and tests include crank run-out and trueness, because they must operate within a strict tolerance to last long and perform well. Wiseco crankshafts and bearings are manufactured and tested according to strict tolerances and clearances, including run-out and trueness. Crankshaft designs are also tested for 4 hours at WOT. Bearings are another critical point of inspection. Wiseco has worked to build relationships with top-tier bearing suppliers to provide a long lasting, low-friction product. Debris in a bearing can lead to very fast wear, and Wiseco makes it a point to inspect batches of bearings for cleanliness and proper operation. As part of the design and engineering process, prototype crankshafts are hand inspected and dyno-tested at wide open throttle for 4 consecutive hours. This is a benchmark test, and new crankshaft designs must pass it before to be deemed worthy for manufacturing. Watch our crank R&D and inspection process. A Warranty on Engine Internals? Yes! Wiseco is committed to providing performance and reliability in all their products. This is why Garage Buddy kits come with a limited warranty. Rebuild your engine with a Garage Buddy kit, and your new Wiseco components are covered against manufacturer defects for 90 days from the date of purchase, or 10 hours logged on the hour meter, whichever comes first. Check out all the warranty details on the detail sheet in your new Garage Buddy kit. Open up your Garage Buddy kit and you'll find a detail sheet on the warranty on your new components. Forged Pistons The top end kits included in Garage Buddy kits feature a Wiseco forged piston, which are designed, forged, and machined completely in-house in the U.S.A. Four-stroke Garage Buddy kits come with a Wiseco standard forged piston, which offers stock compression and more reliability and longevity, thanks to the benefits of the forging process. Two-stroke Garage Buddy kits include a Wiseco Pro-Lite forged piston, which is the two-stroke piston that has been providing two-stroke riders quality and reliability for decades. Some applications, two and four-stroke, even feature ArmorGlide skirt coating, reducing friction and wear for the life of the piston. Forged aluminum has an undeniable advantage in strength over cast pistons, thanks to the high tensile strength qualities of aluminum with aligned grain flow. Read more about our forging process here, and get all the details on our coatings here. All Wiseco pistons are forged in-house from aluminum. Some pistons may also come with ArmorGlide skirt coating, and some 2-stroke pistons may already have exhaust bridge lubrication holes pre-drilled. All pistons are machined on state-of-the-art CNC machine equipment, then hand finished and inspected for quality. The forged pistons come complete with wrist pin, clips, and high-performance ring(s). Lastly, all gaskets and seals are made by OEM quality manufactures. Sealing components are not something to ever go cheap on, because no matter how high-quality your moving components are, if your engine is not sealing properly, it’s coming back apart. Need some tips on breaking in your fresh engine? Check this out. Gaskets and seals provided in Wiseco Garage Buddy kits are OEM quality, ensuring your freshly rebuilt engine is properly sealed.
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