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Found 190 results

  1. Hi Guys, Been lurking and reading as much as I can here, great information. I'm having an issue that searching can't seem to resolve though. I picked up an 05 CRF230 a few weeks ago, it's got an FMF pipe and the air box plug removed. I pulled the plug and it's clearly been running lean, so following the sticky I dropped in a 45 pilot, 120 main jet and put the needle in the 4th position. Took the bike out and it was nearly unrideable. Crazy surging, inconsistent power etc. Pulled the plug and it was black as could be. Not wet, just black. I went back to the stock pilot jet, it was better but still awful. I then moved the needle back to the middle position and it improved to the point I could actually ride with my kid for the rest of the day, but it's still rich. So my question is how could my bike be so far off the proven combination? I'm at sea level, have checked the float level every time I've messed with the carb, tested for any leaks and I set the valves a couple days ago. My next step was going to be set the needle in the 2nd position and try a 115 main jet. Any ideas?
  2. Hey all, My first post here. I live in Japan and have recently bought a 2000 FTR 223. I got it dirt cheap and lucky me, it smokes. Pretty sure I need to put a new set of rings in the motor and maybe a few other things when I get into it. What I want to know is the performance parts compatibility with the CRF230. I've been lurking and reading and found higher compression pistons, larger cylinders, and one post about the weak connecting rod. Engine number MD33E-2009079 5 spd trans 26K kilometers on the motor I've got a message out to XRs Only, but they haven't responded. Thanks all.
  3. This section of the Shop Notebook has been updated… The fate of the custom control panel with voltage meter is explained. The wiring harness saga is interesting. Nirvana may have been reached. Here are the topics… Survive the OHV apocalypse: Lights and horns on trail bikes Street conversion 2016 LED headlight upgrade with stock stator Auxiliary riding lights Upgrade your own stator? Trail Tech Stator and Rec/Reg Upgrade Adding a neutral indicator LED Upgrading the start/stop switch Custom control panel with voltage meter Wiring harness 2017-2018: SAE plugs to terminal strips Wiring harness 2018: Wago wire nuts http://bit.ly/2HDJX8m
  4. If the 41mm forks for a 2019 CRF250F have potential to be better than the 37mm units that are on a 230F, a complete set can be purchased for about $350. That is correct, brand new OEM 250F complete right and left fork assemblies, complete triple clamps with bearings, about $350. Same bearings, not sure if the stem is the same length between the two units, but could be bolt on and ride. Also, the front wheels both have the same hub so no issue there. Brand new unmolested forks, matching triples, send the damper rods to Bruce and nicely upgraded front end for cheap with possibly no modifications or fabrication required (if the stems are the same length).
  5. Hello,New member here,I found a new 17 230 at local dealership for a great price few weeks ago. Very excited about getting back into trail riding,bike runs great,then I found this website talking about very lean factory jetting, I am not very good at mechanical work,wish I was,I read Rick Ramsey 's pages and other very knowledgeable people on here,decided to give it a try, 03 needle ,120,45 jets,fuel screw. Found main and pilot jets locality,I am very nervous about drilling a hole in tamper plug covering fuel screw to remove it and stripping out jis screws to remove needle. Wednesday I removed baffle on top of air box,decided leave exhaust in for now, installed main jet and pilot jet Will have to order 03 needle,and D socket tool Went for a short ride around the block,wow what a difference !! Noticeable mid range improvement My question is I understand needle controls mid range,since I didn't touch stock needle or fuel screw I wonder if it's still running lean ? No popping on deceleration. I greatly value your opinions/knowledge. Thanks
  6. I was riding rough and smooth singletrack yesterday and it got me thinking about my spine. The only thing between your spine and a lot of cumulative impact is your shock. The shock turns energy into heat instead of your spine turning it into heat and pain and medical bills. As riders age taking care of your spine becomes increasingly important. Especially if you ride a lot of hours, the "horrifying" stock 230F and 250F shock may need an upgrade. On the other had, if you enjoy cruising dirt roads the stock shock may be perfectly adequate. The table shows the spectrum from mellow to challenge riding. If you are more to the mellow side, enjoy saving your money and ride on. On the other hand If you can say 'Yes' to more of the factors on the right, it may be time to spend some money. All the known options are listed here: http://bit.ly/2M8Zo76 What have I missed?
  7. I have a 2015 230 with not that many rides and in my opinion warrant a new clutch but when riding for a half hour or so and the bike is warmed up good when I give it full throttle I feel the clutch slip so I back off to regain clutch contact. I have about a nickel play at the handlebars and slight play at the "pivot lever." From what I understand there are no other adjustments areas. I don't abuse the clutch. The bike oil has been Mobil 1 Motorcycles and currently the last few years Amzoil Synthetic Dirt Bike. Is it time for a new clutch or?
  8. Ok, I have scoured this site on upgrading my uncorcked 230, tons of info, thanks to you all. BUT,, there is nothing that I can find that puts it all together. Seems as though all the older threads of Terry etc are defunct.. So all I am asking is for distributors of parts and info who can put together a complete package that works together to get a little more spunk out of my 230. Dont get me wrong, every one I ride with either has a ktm 250/300,,beta 300, rmz 450, kx450 etc, yet they always mention that they cant keep up with me in the montana mtns. Im not trying to brag, ive been riding all my life so my experience of sliding into berms under full throttle etc doesnt necessarily resonate to newbies. I love my 230, it is not in any way holding me back from riding with the big boy toys, BUT i personally want more power, not a bigger bike. Yet after reading all these threads, most suppliers are defunct , so who can I contact that can deliver a complete package for the 230, thats oversized piston, cams, valves, machine work if i cant do it myself, etc. thanks, any info is much appreciated.
  9. Not sure if I sure post this in the XR250/400 forum, but since the carb is on my 230 track bike, I thought I would start here. The carb is overflowing after a short ride, and my overflow screw is tight, so I assumed the float level may be off, but am open to other suggestions. Right now I am using a 190 main jet, and the bike pulls hard at on top. I finally had time to take the carb off and measured the minimum drop on the float at 16.5mm and the max is 20mm (measurements are in line with the main jet). I watched the XR400 carb tutorial but not sure if the measurements should change when used on a 230. On the video the recommended minimum float setting is 14.5 mm and the max is 5mm more at 19.5mm, though I have read elsewhere that the XR250 carb should be set at 12.5mm. Also, the white plastic anti slosh-baffle is missing, so I assume the source I purchased from removed it. I still have the baffle from my original 230 Keihin carb (assuming it fits).
  10. I received a new aftermarket Keihin PWK 38 with some parts in trade and at the moment the only bike I could possibly use it on would be the CRF230F. Mostly stock with ported intake and open air filter and 250X exhaust. Too much carb? or with some jetting mods would it work? Thoughts on jetting to start off with? Came stock with Keihin #55 pilot #170 Main Did a a search here and Google but brought up nothing.
  11. Hi, We've acquired a 2007 CRF230F for my (smallish) wife and she finds the reach to the levers quite far, and the pull on the clutch a bit fatiguing. Can anyone suggest levers that can be adjusted for a shorter reach? Ideally, with a clutch lever with adjustable leverage on the cable pull? (I'm familiar with the need for a well maintained cable and also the side-effects of changing the cable leverage.) If necessary, I can adjust the clutch force by figuring a way to lengthen the clutch arm down at the clutch itself, but if there was a bolt on lever that allowed for this, that would be a bonus. I've found the "Outlaw Racing EZ pull 3-position clutch lever" which offers different mechanical advantage, but it doesn't offer adjustable reach. Any suggestions? Thanks, Doug
  12. I bought a 2003 CRF230F for my wife. It had the baffle out, and I put it back in. It has the baffle taken out of the intake, apparently. No other changes. It had a 132 main and 42 pilot jet. From what I read, the 132 is way big. I put in a 45 pilot, and it seems okay, but pretty cold blooded at idle. I'll probably put in a 48. Since it's a 2003, it sounds like I have the main needle I want. Please give feedback on what you think is best. By the way, the bike is virtually brand new, with probably 10 miles on it. It does not have a scratch. Anywhere. My wife's old bike was a 2003 150 that was street legal. I swapped everything, and now she has a pristine, short, street legal 230F. The original objective was just to get her electric start, because she struggled to start the 150.
  13. Hello CRFers, I have to many 230's and need to thin out the herd. If you live in California you know how hard it is to get a dirt bike plated. https://ventura.craigslist.org/mcy/d/thousand-oaks-honda-crf230f-street/6937496772.html
  14. Just decided to buy an XRsonly header pipe for my 2004 crf230f, uncorked, jetted stock motor.. Want to shed a pound or two off the bike by building my own tail pipe and muffler... I saw a post some where on here of some one who built their own with a tapered tail pipe to a reverse cone muffler,, can't find that post again,,, any directions to it? Looking for tips and ideas of what will work the best for my riding style high in the montana mtns. I ride off idle to high mid range. One tooth smaller on counter shaft, bike runs flawless. Any help is appreciated,thanks
  15. CRF230F - farm bike, no track/performance riding whatsoever. Factory tires are slick on wet gravel, could be an interest in eventually being street licensed, thinking dual-sport tires would be better compromise As-is factory designations: 80/100-21, 100/100-18 Standard on CRF250L, would these sizes work? - 3.00-21, 120/80-18 Primarily concerned about knowing what dual-sport sizes would fit the CRF230F but also would appreciate recommendations on brands/models - Thanks -
  16. So we just got back from a 4 day Riding/Camping trip ... I was able to get the 230 all modded up and running decently before we took off on this adventure Friday morning was the first time I had really ridden it since all the mods were done - Mods were as follows: 1 - Bruce's Damper Rods and springs (Set up for 180 lb rider) I'm right at 215 now 2 - Installed a rebuilt/revalved 85 XR600 shock 3 - Installed a Chinese PD pumper carb 4 - Other general mods include basic "Un-Corking", ProCom CDI, ... blah blah blah.. So just riding lightly around the back of our camping area on some rocky trails my first initial thoughts were... wow it's better, but still pretty stiff feeling. .. I double checked the rear sag and it was right at 3" (I have no idea what the stock spring rate is on the XR600 shock??) Later that morning we went on a "Real" ride - Fast Aggressive, tight technical and ROCKY!!! ... Thoughts on that hour plus ride was: Something is really stiff feeling, but I couldn't figure out if it was the front or the rear? ... booking pretty fast along a fire road and I hit a just a little ripple in the road and it pounded my arms and shoulders .... there was a TON of vibration getting transferred through to my hands - I had installed bar risers, Renthal bars w/ Tusk D-Flex guards and new factory grips .... buzzed my hands so much it made them go to sleep on many occasions... So in a nut shell,. the suspension was "Better",... but I need to dial it in to say the least.. Ironically Bruce called me Friday afternoon to check up on my progress (Great customer service! ) ... his suggestion was to get on factory fork spring and swap it out to see if that softens up the front a little. Engine/Power: I was very pleasantly surprised by the increase in power the bike had especially in the mid range area! .... I thought "Now we're getting somewhere" ... not sure if it was just the carb or what, but I was impressed for sure! At one point I was in 2nd coming up this very steep and rocky hill that was kind of bendy going up... I thought, welp I'll be killing it here in a second, but I just twisted the throttle a bit more and she lugged right on up it! I was really surprised as I was going very slowly. On my 08 450R I would have had to Clutch it to death in 1st and still would have probably killed it somewhere in that climb. The bike started up just fine even in the 50 deg. morning ( I have the choke plate and assembly all removed from that carb) just twisted the throttle a couple of times and she popped right off and ran great. Hot or cold always started instantly! I did notice some slight "popping" or possibly hesitation when I was giving her a full hand full of throttle at spead... almost like it was cutting out just every so slightly..but I could "feel" it or hear it.... not sure if it's just too rich on top or if it is lean through the middle (?) maybe raise the needle up (Not sure if the needle has any slots on that one (?) ) ... I was still running a 45 pilot and 122 main I believe as I didn't want to take the carb off and risk a potential leak on that thing again ----- which in the end it was leaking just a tad bit around the bowl again.. but not enough to drip,.. just wet and I could smell it... (?) I really REALLY want to get that OEM PD pumper carb dialed in with that 28mm bore ... I think that is going to be a necessity once I go with the Athena kit and a cam.... If anybody has any interest in dialing that carb in for me I'd gladly pay them to do it... I'm bringing my Torino home out of storage this coming weekend and I'll be full in working on that thing for a little while (New racing rear end going in! YAY!!!!) ... but I have the two bikes and two 4-wheelers all cleaned up and put away for the moment .... man I'm whoooooped!!! I'll post some pics here in a bit... Thanks Rick
  17. Hi guys I just bought a theft recovery crf230l. I bought it not running/ no spark. A google search brought me here. I followed various posts to trouble shoot and I have determined the coil is shot but before I replace it I need to sort out some wires that have been twisted together. I found a wiring diagram but its not for the 230L and there is a difference. Can anyone provide a link to or a picture of a diagram for the L version? The wires spliced together are a green with yellow stripe which is twisted to a black wire going to the start/stop switch on the handlebar. thanks for any help..
  18. My wife recently picked up a 2008 CRF230L, I have been working on it with her, helping her make it more comfortable for trail riding. She wants to get some new foot controls and I have not been able to find much information on what will work with this bike, I can find many parts for the 230F, but not much for the 230L. Are the foot peg mounts for this the same as on the 230F and will aftermarket brake and shift controls from the 230F work on the 230L?
  19. Just picked up a 2005 CRF230F and the suspension needs help. I've spent the last 10 hours of my life reading the shop manual and every post I can find on suspension. I've also spent about an hour on the phone with Bruce Triplett. I originally wanted to go with the tried and true Bruce rods and Hagon shock, but I'm 210lbs in street clothes (probably 225_230 geared up)and from what I've read, the Hagon shock isn't going to allow me to have the proper sag. I think I can make the forks work with some combination of bbr springs/spacers/Bruce mods. What do you guys recommend for an equally effective and simple solution for the shock? What should my target spring rate be? I'm thinking about: A Hagon shock with heavier spring. (Seems expensive for what it is and I haven't seen anyone try it yet. Unproven.) A YSS of some sort, possibly with remote reservoir. (I like the price point, but haven't seen anyone compare it to the other available options.) XR250R rebuilt and revalved. (Price of buying a used shock, rebuild, revalve, and re-spring, if there are even springs available, seems prohibitive.) TL;DR I'm 230 lbs all geared up. I'll be riding it hard in SE Idaho single track, chasing my buddies through the trees over rocky terrain. Looking for suspension advice.
  20. I let my buddy ride my 230F today and he got a little overzealous, grabbed too many gears, and wiped out. The bike seems to be alright other than the starter button falling off of the starter assembly. We were unable to find the button in the thick brush he crashed in. The bike can still start without the button just by pushing in on the plastic prongs in the attached photo. I did some Googling for a new starter button but was unable to find just the button and could only find the entire starter assembly for $30.00. I'd hate to spend $30 for a starter assembly when all I need is a plastic button that probably shouldn't cost more than $2.00. Does anyone have any experience with this button falling off or have any suggestions where I might find one? Thank you
  21. Well, Here's my latest project I'm working on:
  22. ok, I have been reading this fourm / trying different things /etc. for about 4 days now and I need some direction. my son's 2003 CRF230F idles fine and sounds good all the up to about 1/2 throttle, it then goes into this bbaaawwww pattern until you let off the throttle and it goes back to idle and purrs like a kitten. Notes: - Was running great until I took the Carb off to clean and rebuild. REason for rebuilt is that it was starting to leak around the bowl area. - here are settings of when I took it apart: -- Fuel/air Screw, almost 3.5 turns out. -- Pilot jet 45 -- Main jet 102 (stock) -- the Air baffle has been removed and I believe the muffler baffle too (bought it used and it is very loud for a honda) -- The float was crazy high. didn't measure it it looked to be 15 to 20 above parallel -- needle clip in middle positon So, i cleaned / rebuilt the carb putting in the follow based on this forum - left 45 pilot jet in - went with a 120 main jet - got new floats and set the height to 12.5 mm (almost perfectly parallel) - Set fuel/air screw at 1.5 turns out - put needle clip in fourth position Bike started up without issue once I reset the idle screw. let it idle a minute or two, then rev'ed it and heard the bog. Think that it only happens from 1/2 to WOT it must be the main jet. So, I went from a 120 down to a 112 , same thing. so I thought I would just put stock back in and see what happens. Same thing, bogging at half to WOT. Took plug out and it isn't too bad but somewhat black. I even played with the choke and when I would be at WOT and put the choke on, it seemed to make it worse. I don't know for sure but I think it is a rich bog but am not sure. I haven't performed the bowl and clear tube float test yet but plan on doing that tomorrow. None of this makes sense based on what I have read on these forums and tried thus far. And that setup on it originally was just so abnormal. What am I missing here? What haven't I checked? If you think you can help me, please give me some ideas. Thanks in Advance. I will keep reading and trying to figure out what to check/do next as well.
  23. I was looking at the wiring diagram of the crf230, and it seems that one end of the stator coil is grounded. This leads me to think that the rectifier is a half-wave rectifier. Has anyone floated the ground and used a full-wave rectifier, such as the trail tech, to get more current without going the whole hog and rewinding the stator? cheers, Doug
  24. Hi guys, so I bought a new OEM cam chain adjuster to go with my top end overhaul of my Honda CRF230f and I was just about to fit it when I noticed a white dot on it. The adjuster will screw in either way, but I want to be sure that the dot isn't indicating orientation! I should also note that the part number is: 14520KCT692 and it has been superseded by the OEM part that was on the bike. I have read on some other forums that the dot might indicate a version of the part, but I'm just not sure. Can anyone tell me what the white dot means? Thanks in advance, Angela.
  25. Back in June of 2018 I bought a WPS Featherweight battery. It's been flawless even without taking the battery out during the winter months or putting it on a trickle charger. During the winter I do take the bike out once in a while for a couple trips around the block but other that that it fires right up in the spring. Any ideas how long the Lithium batteries last? Are some brands more reliable than others? https://www.amazon.com/FirePower-Featherweight-Lithium-Battery-HJTZ7S-FP-IL/dp/B00DX891FG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=119YIYO8WBYO4&keywords=wps+featherweight+lithium+battery&qid=1579737415&sprefix=WPS%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUlJLVTNHQVo3SVYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1MjkzNTAzT0lTV1dCR040MDBCJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4NDIwNjUyQlQ0N0VDT1Y3MVFWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
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