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Found 314 results

  1. 11 FCR39 carb kits, ready to ship that is! We just shipped all pending orders and expect these to go quickly. https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/DRZ-Fuel-System-Intake-c4907/
  2. Hi i have a 2004 wr250f with a JD jet kit in it and most (not all) the time when I rev it off idle it just dies but when I hold the chick in and rev it it's fine when it warms up it gets better and once it's moving/ reving it's fine the bike rides fine and everything it's just that and it's realy starting to piss me off now please help!
  3. 1 review

    PWK GENERAL: PWK CARBURETORS Producing power without compromise The motocross world knows PWK. Keihin PWK carburetors is the dominant carb on the factory motocross machines. Because of their great performance they come stock on a lot of the leading brand bikes. With these features you can take advantage of Keihin's superior performance. PWK FEATURES Chromed semi-flat (D) throttle valve for excellent response and more flow at high RPM. Throttle bores sized to give maximum power. Easy jetting with jetting parts available. Quad Vents: Eliminates post jump bogging from fuel plugged vent passages PWK Air Strikers: Directs air to main nozzle for improved signal and throttle response.
  4. Hey guys, First of all, I'm fairly new to the sport. I recently picked up a 2006 Honda CR125 and I'm having a problem with it. When I start the bike up, choke on or off, the bike revs very high for a minute or so before finally settling down. It does this in varying degrees, sometimes only slightly higher than I think it should be and sometimes it revs all the way. After it settles a bit, the sound the bike makes when I rev it is weird. I see videos of people revving their bikes and they sound very crisp. Mine sort of continues to rev high for a little while after I rev it and doesn't sound crisp at all, it sounds sort of "sloppy" in my opinion until it returns to a more "normal" idle sound (please watch the video and tell me what you think). I always start my bike the same way, lean it over to let any excess gas leak out, turn on the gas and choke, 3 primer kicks, and finally a good kick which almost always starts it right up. Am I doing something wrong? I then turn the choke off immediately, which I understand is what should be done on a 2 stroke, but the bike continues to rev high as if it is still on. I assume it's a carb issue but being fairly new to this I could really use some more opinions. Thanks a lot, Will Here is a link to a video of me starting it up so you guys can hear what it sounds like. Keep in mind I turn off the choke as soon as the bike starts and although it may look like I'm giving the bike gas when I start it, I am completely off of the throttle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cl3SgsV8sF4 Also, I'm planning to update the bike a bit with some new plastics, seat cover, etc. Anyone know of any good plastic kits for this particular model? I know they have a polisport one that isn't very expensive. Is this good stuff? This is definitely a secondary task though, I want it to be running right before I do any sort of visual buff.
  5. diesel_dean1

    2004 yz 125 jetting

    Do you know if they make a jetting chart depending upon altitude and temperature, if so please get back to me thanks
  6. kodzzzz

    Fcr arrived, what's next?

    Thanx to James509 my slant fcr just arrived .. It's in pretty Gud condition .. What do u guys recommend me to do next ...
  7. Joe Hammond

    2006 drz400s

    Should I buy this bike with 5100 miles in good condition for $3000 or go for a 2013 drz400s for $4000 but the original speedometer is gone and claimed mileage is 1900 miles need help thanks
  8. Hi, I have just recently installed a Cylinder Works 434 big bore kit and a Hot Rods +4mm stroker kit to my 2000 DRZ400e. I have the FCR 39 carb, A yoshimura exhaust, and a K&N air filter. I live in florida so the weather is about 75 degrees average and almost always humid. I recently purchased the JD jet kit and wanted to install it but im not sure which main jet or needle to try first. Can someone please reccomend a good starting setup and/or explain how to get my jetting correct? If it helps, the JD jet kit comes with, Main Jet (165, 162, 160, 155), Pilot Jet (45), Blue Needle (Low Altitude/Cool temp), Red Needle (High altitude/high temp), and a needle clip. Thanks, Chris
  9. The purpose of this post is to get some input on where I should start looking first for the solution to the backfiring issue. When my bike died, it was running beautifully. Just rebuilt my first top end on an 08 yz450. I was meticulous in following the steps via the manual. Compression feels good, but is backfiring frequently. I blew the top end up so I remember how much backfiring was happening on decel. Backfiring is now happening on accel and decel. After a bunch of online research I understand that this can be from the following things: Jetting Exhaust leak Valves clearances out of spec Here's some info about the bike. Valve broke, and got wedged in the valve seat in the cylinder head. Brought that head to a very good local machinist who cut the valve head out and repaired the damage on the cylinder head. He adjusted the valves for me. (By the way replaced the timing chain, thinking it was the chain that was the culprit leading to the damaged engine). I have an aftermarket FMF header and silencer. The connection from the header to the mid-pipe has no sort of clamp or gasket to seal air in that area. I don't remember there ever being one. But if there is an air leak issue with the exhaust I could imagine that's where it would be. Is there supposed to be a mechanism to solidly connect those? I have not yet put gasket sealer back onto where I tried to take the silencer off to repack. When my bike died it was back in September and was around 70 degrees. Starting the bike and hearing the backfire it was around 38 degrees. My fuel screw is turned out 2.5 turns. I have heard mixed reviews of people saying backfiring is caused by a rich mixture, and others saying a lean mix. Will someone give a solid answer to that? Any help on this is appreciated. I've spent a bunch of hours working on the bike, which was fun. But really I just want to ride now. Getting help with ideas on what is most likely the culprit would be very appreciated. Thanks
  10. hey i recently bought a 2001 drz converted to sm, has 3x3 mod, yoshi rs-1 and fcr carb possibly jet kit? (i think they are standard with an aftermarket carb). i love the bike so far but the previous owner said the carb might need cleaned. the bike pops and backfires on decel or even sometimes one backfire when i upshift. sounds almost identical to this video-------> I was just wondering how difficult it would be to "clean" the carb or whatever it is i need to do, a list of what i'd need, and so on. thank you so much for your help i hope to get this fixed soon
  11. So I've tried to search through the volumes of info on the forum but I can't seem to find anything exactly like the issue I had yesterday. I was cruising at around 80 mph on the highway and my bike started sputtering as if it were about to run out of gas. Before I reached for the reserve switch I looked at my trip mileage and realized I had only been 35 miles since my last fill-up. I twisted the throttle and it smoothed out under acceleration but when I rolled off to cruise again it cut out as though I was completely out of gas. I immediately got off the road onto the shoulder and held the clutch in. By the time I stopped the bike was idling fine. It never actually cut all the way off I guess (or it sort of jump started back up before I got on the clutch). I got off the main highway at the next exit and took back roads home. It seemed to run fine. The bike is brand new (less than 2k miles). I am running a Staintune full exhaust with a JD stage 2 jet kit. It has been flawless up until this point. I'm at a loss for what the issue could be. I'm running 89 octane fuel (no ethanol) from the same station I always get gas. I've read about people having somewhat similar issues related to vacuum lines but I don't know where to begin in diagnosing and/or resolving the issue. Any help from you folks to get me started would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Well, I have been putting in and taking out my 40mm FCR MX carb so much. It's getting easier to do. The last item I purchased is a R&D Power Bowl 2 with a adjustable leak jet. Well either from carb cleaner or who knows what. My float bowl gasket was either stretched or grew from the solvents. I had another one on a smaller FCR carb but it was smashed and wouldn't seal. So I called the local Honda dealer and they didn't have one in stock but could order one for $20. So I ordered one for $7 and rushed the shipping. So while I was mad at myself I thought what could I lose. I put the offending gasket in the microwave for a couple short runs. To my amazement it worked. It really shrunk my gasket!!!! LOL I put in on the Power Bowl 2 and fit great and sealed great!!!! It only took three 15 sec bursts in the Microwave and I am back running again and it's all tuned up ready for this season!!!!
  13. Ok I got an 04 yz450f that I cannot get to run right on the bottom. No matter what I try, rich main lean pilot/rich pilot lean main it ALWAYS studders at like 1/8-1/3 throttle opening at a constant position. As soon as I stop opening(AP OFF) it starts to rich studder. I can manage to get passed it if I open the throttle quick enough but I would like to have it dialed. Specs: First set up: Main:175 Pilot:42 Needle position: clip 4 Starter:72 Elevation: 0-1,500' Full white bros pipe With this set up it studders very bad at any constant throttle position. Had to go up this far on the main to get smooth decel and it still has a little backfiring under decel. Spec 2: Main:170 Pilot:48 Clip #4 everything else the same. This time it has a little less studder at 1/8-1/3 constant throttle with no backfiring on decel and the top end is much much better than a 175&172 If I go down to a 45 pilot it runs crisp everywhere but runs excessively hot and has excessive backfiring.. Can't richen air screw enough. With the 48 pilot i cant turn the air screw in enough to kill it. The 45 will die when I turn it in. So my thought is the pilot air jet needs to go up a size then perhaps go up to a 175 main? Who here knows about tuning the pilot air jets?
  14. Will I Am

    CR125 High Revving on Start Up

    So, I've had this problem/question for a while now and have never been able to get a definite answer. Some people have told me it's normal, others have said otherwise. When I cold start my 2006 cr125, the bike revs up pretty high before dropping to normal idle (once the engine is warm it starts up fine). It does this whether the choke is on or off, but is much worse with the choke on (I always turn the choke off as soon as the bike fires but the result is still worse). It revs to the point where, if I start it on the stand in first gear, I don't have to hold in the clutch when I kick it over and the rear wheel starts spinning like crazy. I've adjusted the throttle free play, the float height, everything I can think of. I doubt it's an air leak because it runs fine once it calms down. I read somewhere that a worn top end can cause this? My bike is ready for a top end rebuild but I've been holding off because I worry that with a new piston and the bike revving up like this on its first start, recipe for disaster. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me, maybe it is just normal for this bike but it doesn't feel normal and I'm out of ideas. Thanks, Will
  15. I'm hours away from making the FCR dream a reality. Want to verify settings and looking for tips on where to buy needed parts. I'm running a stock S with a full yosh and a 3x3. I usually ride at 3000-6000 ft (4000-5000 most times). Low humidity with winter riding temps in the 40s and Summer in the 80s. If I am not mistaken, I need to be running the EMP needle as opposed to the EMN? Also, most likely a 150 main? I would like to know the best spot/price to pick up the needle and jet. Looking to avoid dropping an addt'l $72+ on a jet kit if I don't have to. Holler back! Thanks!
  16. Ever backed out a stuck screw on you carb and brought the threads out with the screw or crossed threaded the fine threads on your costly carb and think its trashed well think again, here is a simple fix to get you going again within under an hour. I'm about to show you how to stripped threads on a flat fcr carb and these procedures follow (should be similar on other models) first you need to go to a local auto-parts store or hardware store and get a helicoil kit for the stock bolt size m4 x 0.7 (standard on fcr 37 flat side carb) others models may be different) mine was purchased at koi auto parts for around $30.00 but we got my dads discount actual price is closer to $55.00 the helicoil kit comes with 12 helicoils and the proper tap tool, you also have to purchase a 11/64 drill bit to oversize the the hole and drill out the remaining threads so you can inserts the helicoil. Get a clean work space. Now gather your tools. Assuming your float bowl is already off due to the stripped threads in the hole if not remove now. Gather your Helicoil kit or similar kit (Helicoil brand part #5546-4) 11/64 drill bit drill and some fresh screws to put in the new inserts anti seize torque wrench i used a 1/4 inch pound wrench and lastly some lube for the threads when you drill them. Step One inspect the carb (Im pointing to my stripped hole below) now clean out the the loose thread debris with a fine pick or something similar. now get your drill and insert the drill bit and start drilling out the damaged threads (i replaced all mine to be safe but the bad one was really the one by the fuel inlet this is a tricky one because you cant drill all the way through like the others so you have to measure the depth and set the depth with a bit stop so you dont go too far and go into the fuel inlet cavity. * TIP (securing in a vice makes this whole process easier) (showing the bit stop) Step Two get out your tap and make the new threads for the Helicoils to thread into. once you do this get the Helicoil insert tool and thread them in to the hole you tapped thread them a 1/4 to 1/2 below the edge of the surface. (except the back ones that are used to line up the bowl go ahead and insert these into they are flush enough for the bowl to flushly seal the surface) lastly you can break the tang on the Helicoils but its not needed if you chose not too. (showing the tapping) Lastly take your carb and blow through and clean with compressed air to get any metal shavings and insert your new screws into the bowl just as you did before and reassemble but this time use some anti seize so this does not happen again.Now torque them down properly i used a 1/4 inch pound wrench.
  17. 4 reviews

    ELIMINATE BOG AND IMPROVE RESPONSE WITH HASSLE FREE LEAK JET CIRCUIT TUNING. Available for all Keihin FCR carbureted MX, Off-road and ATV models. This patented 3rd generation Quickshot combines an innovative triple effect to; completely fill the pump chamber with fuel, eliminate all trapped air from the system and provide and adjustable leak jet circuit for quick hand tuning. Together with with the Boyesen unconditional guarantee, the QS3 simply delivers unmatched results. Tunable leak jet circuit maximizes volume of fuel and duration of fuel spray for any condition Investment cast and finished to precise tolerances Stops hesitation and bog Instant throttle response Improves low end performance Fits ALL Keihin FCR carbs Simple bolt-on "THE ULTIMATE IN ADJUSTABLE FUEL INJECTION"
  18. Hello everyone, I am new to this forum, I just bought my DRZ-400s a few months ago. Last week I purchased a cylinder works 434cc big bore kit, stage 2 hotcams, and an FCR carb. I had a dealer professionally install everything. I got the bike back and the bike idles fine and starts right up. I was very light on the throttle for the first 50 miles, and then after that I began to roll on the throttle. I was excited to do so until I noticed that the power was less than before (with the stock jetted carb). The bike also has a full Yoshimura RS-3 exhaust and K&N air filter. I brought the bike to another dealer to see if they could figure out what was going on. It's weird because the bike runs well, but the power is not anywhere near where it should be. They checked the valve train and did a compression test to verify everything was good there. They found a slight issue with the main air jet missing and they put that back in. They made some other adjustments. The bike is still about the same. If you're cruising and blip the throttle, it does have a little more power than before, but that's about it. From the midrange to the top end it is actually worse than before. The shop said that the cams I had installed take away from the top end. But I read that stage 2 cams give more midrange and top end. Even if they did, there should still be a drastic difference in power given the upgrades. Has anyone else experienced this? At this point, I am going to have to try and fix it myself. I am way in over my head in labor at this point and it makes me sick to my stomach. I was so excited about these upgrades and now I cannot even enjoy them. Any help or suggestions would be apprecaited. Thanks everyone, Brandon
  19. New here guys and don't want to come off manic or anything but after exploring options for my new to me 2004 drz400s I think I may have had a small stroke after looking at the sticker price for FCR carb... I mean seriously?? $200 maybe but come-on.... everyone needs to stop doing the conversions immediately !!! After a few months or more with no sales the price will come down to reality... it's all about demand... Exp... I almost gave up my search for a super clean unmolested drz example in the used market for realistic price and was going to buy new, talked with the dealer and was told market price for a new DRZ held at around $6,500 but yet I could buy more bike (dr650) for a mere $5,800 brand new !!! This only tells me we as consumers, freaks,drz lovers have driven the prices up ourselves.. I understand prices go up in fact I bought my '98 dr650 new for $4,800 so I get the new price tag but a 400 costing more makes no sense, like buying the V8 camaro for less than the V6... I have lifted my jeep 4" for a tad more than a stinking FCR carb costs, come on...