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Found 10 results

  1. Wanderfool

    Purchased 2018 DR650 with 768miles...

    Hey TT crowd; very happy to announce I've joined the DR family! Absolutely love the bike and have a few questions I've not been able to answer from a quick stroll around the forums via the search function. I also own a 2008 honda XR650L but it has seen it's last days after I split the crank case and unknowingly dumped the oil off-road and seized the engine on the way home...:( SHAME! Anyway, I was curious as to if I could move the front forks from the XR over to the DR. It's aftermarket from Traxxion Dynamics and I'd hate to have to part them out. I have a Jet kit, powercore 4 exhaust, K&N air filter, and Shinko 700's on the way. Looking forward to ripping up the Dirt here in N Georgia!
  2. My dad has a 2002 or a 2005 Kawasaki 650 that sputters when you give it gas. (Sorry can't remember the year) Sometimes it will run fine (only for a few minutes) and sometimes right away once you start it and give it gas it'll lag and sputter when you roll the throttle. It starts right up but for some reason this problem keeps happening and it's preventing me and my dad from riding. He's nearly 60 years old and I want to help him fix it so we can get some more rides in together. He's been messing around with the gas line and one of the air tubes from he carb. He was showing me that the main gas line had a bubble in it so it wasn't getting gas but I'm thinking it might be something with the carb. What do you guys think? Any ideas would be a huge help for us so we can get back to riding.
  3. I took the lil' girls bike on a 3 day ride last weekend to Tellico, TN. March Moto Madness was a good time and will return next year. The connecting pavement and fire roads between single track are sometimes 10 -15 miles and the 14,47 gears work well for that, but definitely make hill climbs more difficult. The Shinko 505 wore better than expected with all the pavement. Engine upgrades are on the way to combat the higher gears. Video below is 12 minutes, maybe 12 minutes of your life you'll never get back, but hope you enjoy.
  4. I have cleaned the carburetor, replaced ignition coil, replaced spark plug, drained fuel and put in fresh, installed new intake manifold, installed fuel filter, cleaned tank, changed and oiled air filter, changed battery, adjusted air/fuel ratios and more I'm sure I'm forgetting. But my 1994 DR350 continues to idle extremely rough and most of the time it will only stay running if in full choke. I could keep buying kits and parts but I'm very interested in simply replacing the carb completely as it seems someone has messed with it before. The ones online are insanely expensive, so if someone could offer a decent price for one I would be very grateful. The bike ran perfect when I bought it and I rode it extensively, this issue happened two days after I sold it to my brother, OF COURSE!!! So now I feel guilty and have been working at it for days and nothing is making the slightest difference. Please help, riding season is just starting in my area and I don't want my brother to miss out.
  5. So this has been an abnoxious one, I bought this bike about 8 months ago and it has always run perfectly, about a month and a half ago I installed the IMS 4 gallon tank and tusk billet cap and it has continued to run perfectly until less than a week ago. Now it will start to starve for fuel every 5 min or so unless I loosen the cap to relieve tank pressure. It seems to do fine if I driving backroads at a sub 30mph pace, but if I get on the highway it quickly build pressure and cuts out. The tank has always built pressure when I was riding, and hissed viciously when i refueled but had no fuel delivery issues until less than a week ago, I could nearly drain the tank without opening it, and it would never cut out. Could the vacuum assisted petcock have possibly worn out? Is it normal for the tank to build pressure? I was under the impression that the fuel cap would relieve all pressure. So far I have checked the vacuum line over and over, taken apart the tusk fuel cap and blasted the parts with hot water, removed fuel filter, then installed it again when I noticed no difference. The bike noticeably regains power while I'm driving and I loosen the cap.
  6. Michael Gullotta

    I’m the fng

    Hi Thump masters I’m the fng. I’ve only ridden a few bikes recently but one toe on the ground when at a stop is messin with my head. I need to get more of at least one foot on the ground when I stop. I’m 5’6” and am wondering how much drop links will lower a seat. My research is taking me to the Yamaha xt 250 for over all dual sport with a 31.5” seat height stock. Most other dual sport bikes are higher. I haven’t bought anything yet but am ready. Tell me what you know. Thanks , Mike
  7. Adam Faulks

    Crf450l vs wr250r

    Hey guys and gals. I was reading the specs on the new crf450l today and was bitterly dissapointing in the numbers I read. The official honda number claim a meger 25 hp and 23 ft/lbs torque. I currently have a 15 wr250r with a full pipe , prorammer and air box opened up a bit. Yamaha claims 28 hp and 17 torque on the WR in stock for. Am I missing something here. Like WTF HONDA. I was super stoked when I saw the post about this bike a few days ago but based on the numbers o really can' see it out performing my wr, at least in the engine department. I love my wr. I can ride the hell out it and works great in some pretty Nasty terrain but I would sure like at least another 5 or ten horse. Anybody got any input on this? Thanks
  8. I own a 2012 Kx250F that I would like to make street legal if possible and I recently saw Rocky mountain I believe sells these battery packs that sit in the airbox for bikes without batteries that looks too good to be true and a headlight and turn signals like a conversion kit basically and I was curious as if anyone has had luck with those or if there junk it would be nice to make my bike street legal for short trips or just have lights for trail riding with friends that already do if possible any tips on converting it?
  9. Dylanjesse

    XR 600 R dual sport

    Hey all, I thought I would run something past you (anyone) about my plans on improving the amount of electrical juice I can squeeze out of my 97 Xr 600 R. This is my first post here, so apologies. I hope I can be half useful to someone else as this forum has been for me. Cheers. So, from what I can tell this 97 Honda is pretty much stock as it sits. I have a new 200 w dual output stator and reg/rec. The plan: 100 w wired to stock 3 wire harness, AC reg, ignition and running lights (maybe 55w bulb upfront to soak up any extra AC juice). Running lights to be always on with engine. They will not have any switches. The other 100 w will got to the DC system. Reg/Rec to battery and then switches, headlights (with hiLo) horn, indicators e.t.c. Grounded to the negative terminal on the battery. An almost separate system apart from its connection to the reg/rec. I'd be great if anyone had any advice, questions/comments. I have suss'ed out as much I can and at this seems to suit what I am looking for. (Providing it's all square and I am not missing something) AC over flow of power is delt with via the stock frame grounded system. What happens to extra DC power? Back through the reg/rec? Cheers, Jesse
  10. kawasakikyle

    KLX 351 Problems

    Hey all, In need of help ASAP I recently purchased a 351 big bore kit from Bill Blue. Have heard so many great reviews from others who have done the same to their bikes. Watched all the videos from Adventures in Real Life and MrDuhFactor (popular Youtubers who did the 351 bb kit to their bikes). Decided that I wanted to upgrade the bike since I am doing the Trans-American Trail in 5 weeks. did the whole nine yards of mods, pumper carb, dg exhaust, rebuilt head, stiffer clutch, and a few other little trinkets. finished putting it together and it fired right up and ran beautifully. Nearing the end of my break in miles I noticed it was having really hard starts and would cut out at high rpms once warm. Discovered that this was due to a blown head gasket. I assumed I got the wrong torque specs from the internet because when I pulled the head the gasket looked fine, so I called Bill and had him overnight me two new gaskets along with a list of torque specs. Well I just got it all back together and tried to run it. Barely ran at first, so I pulled the valve cover back off and discovered I was a tooth off on the chain. Fixed that and it sounded a lot better. But it won't stay at idle and and when I try to ride it, it cuts out hard past 4000 rpms. If I try and let it idle, it just dies. I feel like I've tried everything but nothing seems to work. I'm at a serious loss here. This is my only bike and I need it to run good for the TAT in 5 weeks. I am an auto mechanic so I'd like to think I'm not mechanically dumb :/ Getting pretty desperate though.