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Found 1,102 results

  1. I tried to start my bike after about an hour commute with no hitches whatsoever. The engine started turning and then BOOM! I hear this huge pop and it wouldn't start, not even rolling start. I towed it back home with a friend took off the tank and saw that the spark plug blew out.. The cap assembly for the spark plug is completely cracked and missing a part of it. I put a new spark plug in and it started. But now the problem is it doesn't want to stay on when the clutch is pulled in or the bike is just idling. Does anyone have any solution.hopefully people are running into this issue or know what's going on? Old spark plug on the right 
  2. My engine has developed a whirring gear whine sound that is progressively getting louder. It's a 2019 RR390 Standard (w/Racing graphics) with 6000kms, 145hrs, on mostly country roads and some single track. Oil changes, engine and gearbox every 1000kms. Steel oil pump gears and high flow water pump impeller installed at 5000kms, 110hrs. Have any of you heard a sound like this before and have an idea what it might be? The sound is most apparent beginning about 7 seconds into the video that I just posted on the "Beta Motorcycle Group" Facebook group. (I've not yet learned how I can link you to the FB page or post the video.)
  3. Can I get away with a hone out and replacing the rings? I have a other valve cover with freshly lapped and replaced exhaust valves 96 xr600r
  4. Long time reader, first time poster here...but even with all the accumulated knowledge I couldn't find anything that tackles my exact problem. Hope you guys can help me out. So, a couple months ago I bought a used 2013 250l with 12k miles. Already had the full FMF kit on and was riding super smooth. It's my first bike and I wanted something to learn to wrench on, too. Did an oil change after I got it (Castrol full synth), all went well for over 1000 miles now...till last week. Changed the rear tire and instantly noticed something was wrong. Here are the symptoms: -Metallic "clunking" noise in low rpms in gear (all gears) -power cutting out for a split second when going over rocks and little bumps -stuttering when going up a steep hill in 2nd (off road)...if I just send it, I hear a super loud "clonk" and the whole back is rattling Everything is fine in neutral or when I pull the clutch, bolts are tight, chain is tight (that was my first suspicion, but I took the front sprocket off cause I thought it might have been a bit loose or something). Also, riding on tarmac I don't notice any of this...just on rough fire roads and the like. The shifting itself is butter smooth btw. So I figured my new rear tire and the better traction unearthed something or maybe just coincidence... If any of you has an idea please help a newbie out. A short video, running in 6th gear
  5. Attn all engine builders... I have a 2015 YZ250FX with 200 hours. Replacing the top end and cam chain right now. I checked gaps and play on the rod and crank and found the following: ✅ Gap between rod and crank is within spec. Tiniest side to side sliding movement along lower bearing ❓ Rod does seem to rock side to side (not just slide side to side) when pushing sideways at the little end. No spec on this, not sure what is acceptable (very tiny, hard to even detect) ✅ Rod does NOT have any play whatsoever up and down on the crank. (no click or perceivable movement when pulling/pushing rod against crank lower bearing) ✅ Crank has no play whatsoever when pushing the shaft in/out of the case, side to side (bearings seem ok in this regard) ✅ Crank (from the flywheel side) shows no play whatsoever moving forward and back, horizontal. (no tension applied by cam chain, of course) ‼️ Crank DOES show a very tiny but perceivable amount of play vertical, up/down within the case (at TDC, and when I rotate it 90 deg from TDC, the play is still only up/down, does not follow the orientation of the crank, is always vertical relative to the case) Pic illustrates what I mean. Green arrow all good, no play in this direction. Red is the vertical play I am detecting. So everything seems to check out except that last bit - has me worried for sure. I could not find my dial caliper to measure exact play, but in the meantime... How much play is acceptable here, if any? (is this normal?). How can there be play in only ONE direction on a round bearing? Does this mean my case has a problem? What is the likely cause? ack!
  6. 5 reviews

    PRODUCT INFORMATION Highest quality motocross hoses on the market today. Manufactured with an exclusive blend of reinforced, woven Thermoplastic and Pure Silicone materials. High Heat Silicone inner liner that improves water-flow and cooling for all race engines with stand 420 degrees. Available in all of colors to give your bike that race pro factory look along with better performance cooling systems. Perfect custom fit with easy installation. Less weight then the OEM hoses. In stock ready for fast shipping. Includes 1 Year Limited Replacement Warranty.
  7. 1 review

    FEATURES: 1.ABS plastic,lightweight 2.The unique fan blade design allows you to pull or push air with the same velocity. 3.The motor is easily reversible for any application. Most other fans are designed for one-way air flow. 4.Our fans have ten points for the mounting feet giving you flexible installation options. 5.These truly are slim fans.They measure only 2.5"at the deepest point,making them ideal for cramped areas. 6.Radiator cooling fan that fits with a Clark fuel tank.
  8. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION These caps are machined to increase airflow around the cap with a 'fin' design machined into the outside to draw in air around the cap. They are available in 1 color, a champagne anodized look.
  9. 2 reviews

    PRODUCT DETAILS Does not fit KTM's. The Tusk High Pressure Radiator Cap is the simplest and most inexpensive way to reduce your motorcycle or ATV from boiling over. The Tusk High Pressure Radiator cap raises your cooling system’s maximum operating pressure and therefore raises the boiling point of your coolant. This is a perfect upgrade for most motorcycle and ATV radiators with stock 1.1 caps. Higher pressure radiator cap increases the boiling point of your coolant to reduce boil over problems on your motorcycle or ATV. Raises the boiling point by 25 degrees when going from a stock 1.1 kg/cm2 (15.7 psi) radiator cap to the Tusk 1.6 kg/cm2 (22.8 psi) radiator cap. Perfect for 4-stroke and 2-stroke motorcycles, ATV’s, and UTV’s. Universal fit for most machines. Does not fit KTM's.
  10. 2 reviews

    PRODUCT DETAILS Prolong engine life and save on costly repairs with an oil plug that picks up metal filings Replaces OEM oil drain plug Compare with original OEM plug before installing Plug dimensions: OR2619 14x1.25x11 OR2622 12x1.25x14 OR2623 12x1.5x13 OR2624 10x1.5x13 OR2625 10x1.25x15
  11. 3 reviews

    DESCRIPTION WEB-CAM has been hard welding and grinding cams since 1945. With our knowledge, and long time involvement with the racing industry WEB-CAM has proven to be the best! RE-GRIND CAMS Any part # listed under 'Regrind", indicates that we will precision grind your camshaft to the specifications indicated. Note that in many cases you can reduce your down time by purchasing a cam core outright in addition to the grind. ORDERING: Please CALL us to ORDER all REGRINDS at (603) 378-0090 HARD-WELD CAMS On some profiles, Web-Cam welds a hard face overlay to the existing lobe of your camshaft using the most advanced alloys. This has been proven extremely durable. In addition all of the same details for cores and outright cam purchases indicated under "Regrind" apply. These are the finest camshafts available. NEW CAMSHAFTS All part #'s listed under "New Cam" refer to the specifications precision ground onto a new cast camshaft. All grinds are carefully checked and double heat treated for long life. No exchange is necessary as this is an outright purchase.
  12. 1 review

    SPECIFICATIONS Falicon 1-Piece Knife connecting rods feature: * Integral hardened and ground bearing race * Specially designed for High RPM, High Horsepower engines * Forged Alloy Aircraft Steel * 100% Machined * Ampco Bronze Bushing in small end * OEM and Custom Lengths available
  13. 3 reviews

    So amazing upgrade with the camshaft
  14. 0 comments

    Best bike I've owned so far. The map switch makes it into multiple bikes with the push of a button. I bought it because I was tired of always chasing power with my 250F. Now I have more power than I will ever need and can focus on detuning it with the push of a button for tight single track. Suspension: best stock suspension I've ridden, this is the first bike that I'm not going to revalve. Works on single track rocks and roots while also getting me around a vet MX track. Handling: feels lighter than my old 250F and has much better front wheel feel/feedback. You actually get some warning before the front washes out. I'm currently running a 2 link longer chain, I like the way the bike handles with the longer wheelbase. Still turns well and is super stable on whooped out desert runs. Brakes: the front brake needed bleeding when new, but after getting all the air out it's plenty strong with good modulation/feedback. The rear brake works without being too grabby. Controls: the clutch pull is light and stays consistent, I do think the engagement point is abrupt, but I got used to it. The throttle cam is on the aggressive side at low throttle openings and will bite you if you get careless. Rider triangle: I'm short, 5'7", so the low seat and stock handlebar position works great for me. Contrary to other reviews, I don't feel like the bike is any wider than other liquid cooled bikes I've ridden. Plastic: the oem blue plastic has gotten much better than my old WR. After a year of riding there are no white streaks anywhere on the bike. The inlayed graphics are sweet, still look brand new! Overall fit and finish: bike is wearing very well. I'm still running stock Controls and haven't had anything break. My fork seals did start seeping at 18 hours, but after cleaning the seals and started lubricating the lower tubes after every wash they have sealed back up. After 13 months all I've had to buy is oil, tires, front sprocket, and chain.
  15. Ben99

    Kawasaki KX125 (1986)

    0 comments

    Awesome bike! Rips up the dirt
  16. 2 reviews

    GENERAL INFORMATION Over sized intake valves to suport the BB/stroker
  17. 21 reviews

    Save yourself thousands in costly repairs! The ThumperTalk Manual Cam Chain Tensioner (MCCT) is designed to replace the automatic and hydraulic tensioners found on today's hi-performance 4-stroke engines. Factory automatic adjusters can back out when the throttle is suddenly closed at higher rpms. This allows the cams to momentarily go out of time and can result in bent valves and/or serious engine damage! Hydraulic tensioners have a tendency to put too much tension on the chain guide under high rpm/high oil pressure conditions, resulting in premature cam chain wear. Installation of a ThumperTalk Manual Cam Chain Tensioner will allow you to maintain the proper, constant cam chain tension necessary for reliable hi-performance riding and it will not backout. This is a high quality product, proudly made in the USA. There are thousands of these units in service, so buy in confidence! Precision machined billet aluminum body Oring seals, both on the body and threads Stainless steel adjuster bolt & locknut Clear anodized body for long lasting good looks
  18. 1 review

    CNC machined from 6061 T6 alloy Laser etched logo Distinctive laser etched machined Yoshimura Magnasonian finish Kit Includes Crankshaft Inspection Plug and the Small TDC Plug
  19. 2 reviews

    XC Rings - Replacement Rings Sold per cylinder Wiseco rings fit Wiseco pistons only For +.010 oversized pistons
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