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Found 68 results

  1. I recently bought a 2001 YZ250F for $600. Bought some stuff for it, and grand total was $850. The market in CA is about $2200, and I put it up for $2500. I have 5-6 people offering me anywhere from $2000-$2500 cash. My dad is saying that I shouldn't sell it since it's a green sticker, and since it's a 250. I think, I should sell it, and with the money buy a 2002 KTM 250SX. What should I get? Thanks.
  2. MrSzyma

    Old vs new 125 EXC

    Hello! I am currently looking at road legal 125cc 2 stroke bikes. Been looking on KTM 125 EXcs, as they are quite popular here (7 EXCs for sale currently, and only 1 Husaberg, 2 Husqvarnas :D), so you get a bigger choice. The question is, is there a really big difference between the older EXCs, vs the new ones? The newer ones cost A LOT more, so I thought I could get away with an older one. There's a 2007 EXC for sale currently for a good price. It has new 2011 plastics, headlight, gas tank and decals (everything new). Painted main frame, new rear frame, painted handlebars and some other small parts. New seat, decals, both sprockets and chain. The engine got a new cylinder and piston. New bearings, refurbished cam shaft, new kick + shaft and new gaskets. Some other minor parts like an FMF fatty + shorty, Twenty levers etc, but I don't think that plays a big role. Do you think that it's eorth getting that bike, or should I try to buy a newer one? Difference in power, fuel consumption or anything else? Regards, Szymon.
  3. Any and all help will greatly be appreciated.I've got a thumper racing build 570 Big Bore Stage 5 cam,portedhead,oversized valves,overbored carb,dual spray AP, jetting is close, a little rich. 15 hours run time on it. The problem is it will not cold start it turns over slow like the battery is weak sometimes it won't rotate past compression stroke. I'm on my second battery which is WPS lithium 180 CCA battery I'm on my second new starter my valves are adjusted correctly, once I get it started and it runs for even one minute I can turn it off and on 15 times it will always and very easily start if just slightly warm or hot but never cold. I'm dumbfounded.... I can't figure out why it's doing it maybe I need a good high torque starter I will appreciate any help thanks.
  4. Nils Fleischeuer

    KTM 990 Adventure R

    Hi to all, What are the best sounding slip-on pipes for a KTM 990 Adventure R; to get that grunty V-twin sound out? Cheers..
  5. Hey everyone, just seeing what everyone out there uses for their phone storage. For as long as I can remember I would just throw it in the pack but on short rides with no pack I was out of luck. I didn't have pockets and if I did I didn't want to go down and break it. I found a case from Havik Accessories that is just what I needed and liked it enough I thought we'd share. Enter havik when you buy to get $4 off. https://havik-accessories-and-apparel.myshopify.com/collections/all-products/products/havik-motobar-case Here it is on two bikes:
  6. 2006 300 xcw, with a Baja designs dual sport kit and a trailtech vapor already installed. Hours unknown, owner says he's never been into the top end, says PO replaced rings. A few aftermarket parts, pipe, handguards, springs (will redo suspension anyway) Both owners were old guys who used didn't ride much. Here's the add: https://albany.craigslist.org/mcy/d/06-ktm-300xc/6639957837.html
  7. Reid Varland

    03 KTM 200 EXC won't start...

    So I've recently bought a 2003 KTM 200 EXC. When I first went to look at the bike it started first kick every time, the only issue was that it was running a bit rich. About a week later I picked the bike up and it still started, first time every time. There's a 465 meter difference (higher) between the the shop I purchased it from and where I live, but I didn't think it would effect the bikes ability to start. I rode it around a little the next day and put in the shed overnight. The next day it wouldn't start, didn't even sound like it wanted to. Over the past few weeks I've leaned and cleaned out the carburetor, cleaned the air filter and tried starting it with the air box open, checked the floats which seemed to be okay, and tried bump starting it many times. Sorry for the novel, but if anybody has ideas on what may be the problem, any suggestions are appreciated. Or should I just take it to the KTM shop and let them work their magic?
  8. Hi there, Completely new here to the forum but already read a lot of info! Just bought a very nice Keihin FCR 41 MX carb to go with my KTM 640 SM 2004. This sunday i'm going to fit the carb on the bike but need some guidance for the jetting. The bike now has: - Snorkel from the airbag removed and the top of the airbbox is fully open - Leovince X3 slip on (i sawed de DBkiller, without it's way too loud and with the full DBkiller i can't hear the revs...) So... how to start with the jetting? I live at sea level! I also have a Rally cam laying around, do i need to rejet when i put the Rally cam in? Thanks in advance!
  9. Just bought a 2017 KTM 500 EXC-F with only 3.5 hours. Wouldnt start, I took it to the local KTM shop and discovered the pump wasn't pumping enough fuel. I replaced the fuel pump with a CA Cyleworks fuel pump. The bike now fired up. It wouldn't idle for more than 10-30 seconds but was ridable, however, suffered hesitation and bogging down when rolling on the throttle. I replaced the fuel injector and now it will start after several tries and run for a few seconds then die. I have fiddled with the idle screw with no success, its currently maxed out and doesn't seem to change the results regardless of the position of the idle screw or the cold start screw. I've checked the fuses and connectors and nothing seems out of place. I'm currently at a loss...oh and yes the fuel is fresh, and the battery terminals are tight...Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  10. Hey guys, I recently dumped my KTM 690 in a rather large mud puddle. After washing it A LOT, and cleaning out the wires/battery under the seat I have found a new problem, it won't start as it should. It starts occasionally but most of the time there is a "buzzing" or "squealing" sound coming from what seems to be the fuse box when the starter is engaged. Has anyone else had this problem? Everything else seems to be running properly, though I have heard the buzzing noise most of the internet seem to attribute to the "fuel pump" priming, it sounds more like a solenoid to me but I'm not well versed in electronics. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance. The youtube link shows the starting issue
  11. Recently picked up an ‘03 450 sxf and took it up to the trails without any issues. However recently I rejetted the carb and since then the bike stalls out when I pull the clutch in fully. I’ve adjusted the clutch cable and that didn’t seem to fix it and also reinstalled the original jet. The bike also feels like the engine is braking when no throttle is applied even in higher gears. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  12. Hi all. This is my first time posting here, been using this wonderful resource for some time though. So a brief introduction and question. I got back into riding a few years ago after a long time away. A couple years ago I picked up a new to me 2009 KTM 200 XC-W. I've had a lot of fun the last two seasons riding the bike, but even after a fair amount of riding and getting more comfortable on the bike, it still feels really tall and really stiff. I ride trail and single track, some pretty steep and rocky trails here in northern CO. No MX, racing, or big jumps. I've spent a considerable amount of time on hold and emailing suspension companies trying to get recommendations with no response. So hopefully you knowledgeable folks here can help me out. I was told by the previous owner the bike was set up for a 190lb rider. I weigh maybe 140 soaking wet. I've played with the clickers and have a lower seat but the suspension seems too far out of the range for a person as light as I am. I've torn the forks down for seals and replaced a damper rod tube that had 80% of the threads snapped off where the fork cap / reb adjuster screws on (probably that 190lb previous owner going all Lennie form Mice and Men on it) causing the adjuster rod to be bottomed out just to get the cap on two threads and the clicker on the cap to be stuck. I'm an experienced mechanic and have no issues with the forks and can get the shock spacer added and serviced / charged with nitrogen locally. My question is on spring rates. Racetech's calculator gives me .359 fork and P5 progressive rate shock. Do I want to go up in rate much from there when lowering 1" all around? Here's my plan, based solely on the racetech calculator and my measurements from when I had the forks apart, so your thoughts and experience here are very much appreciated. Stock spring dimensions are 43.2 x 508 x .41. The rate in there now is unknown. I plan on using Racetech 42.7 x 493 in a .38 spring rate. That's .6 in shorter, There's enough shims up top to remove to get correct preload with an inch lowering spacer at the bottom. For the rear stock is 8.4 rate. I can't find any marks to guess what's in there right now. I am planning to use the P5 from racetech, again based on their calculator. Sorry for the long winded post, I'm a mechanic raised by a machinist and I've been trying to work this out for a while. Thanks in advance, Noah
  13. gyodock


    From the album: gyodock

    2016 KTM 350xc-f - Olins Fork Cartridge Inserts, FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler, Pro Circuit Linkage Arm, Torc1 Reaction Shift and Rear Brake Lever, P3 Carbon Pipe Guard, Acerbis Skid Guard, Mobie Linkage Guard, Acerbis Swing-arm Guards, RYD Crew Aluminum Handguards, Sicass Racing Tail Light Kit with Flush Mount LED Rear Turn Signals, Sicass Racing Handguards with Built-in LED Turn Signals, Rental Sprockets, Trail-Tech Stator Upgrade, ktmandhusky.com Fuel Rail and Anti-vibration Bar Ends, Guts Seat Cover, USB Charging Port, Misc Anodized Orange Aluminum Bling. My wife is getting jealous of the attention I am giving my bike!
  14. I have this KTM 400 07 and Im getting annoyed of how I can give the bike a small bit of gas for example while holding the clutch the RPMs seem to last long before it goes back to normal neutral rpm. Why is this? I’ve cleaned the throttle house and etc but it still happens. I could use some tips and an explanation.
  15. Ok, this may be really dumb, but I’m stumped. ‘08 KTM 505 XCF was running great. I put a JD Jet Kit on it, with recommended settings (Blue needle, 3rd pos, 42/182, 1-3/4 turns on air/fuel). Post kit installation, including the accelerator pump diaphragm adaptor, and o-ring on the throttle linkage/screw, I cannot get it to idle correctly or get the hot start lever to do anything. It also backfires lightly when decelerating(like its lean). The blue needle is supposed to be the richer needle. It starts with the choke on, I can get the idle to basic normal idle with the idle setting, but when I rev it up, the idle accelerates to a very high idle, like it’s extremely lean. Then I can’t get it to come down without shutting it off, and it gets worse as it warms up. I pulled the carb, checked all the gaskets, checked the needle and hot start lever to confirm it wasn’t stuck. From what I understand, when you pull the hot start lever, it should increase the idle as it leans out the bike. Mine doesn’t do anything, and when the idle is revving, I pull it and it actually lowers the idle? I’m confused, as I thought the JD Jet Kit would be gold, as I’ve had it on other KTMs. Not sure if this is an air leak? Did the adapter I put on the accelerator pump diaphragm cause this? I’m about to pull the jet kit, and go back to a normal needle. Any suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated.....thank you....very frustrating.
  16. I just installed the OE front brake micro-switch on my 2014 XC-W. It's stock switch on the EXC and all of the front brake perch part numbers are common between the XC-W and EXC. As you can see in the picture, the brake lever comes nowhere near engaging the switch. Even with the lever adjusted fully away from the bar (which would be too far for me to reach comfortably), there is still air between the lever and the switch. Obviously, applying the front brake pulls the lever further from the switch. I know I can use a hydraulic banjo switch but I already bought this OE switch and I wonder if there's an adjustment I'm over looking? The picture below is the brake lever at rest. TIA.
  17. Like I said I have a 2008 KTM 450 exc. I live in Southern California along the coast in Dana Point. Riding is almost entirely all desert. So far average altitude is maybe 1-3k pretty much sea level to about 5000 ft is where I normally take it. Whenever I blip the throttle when stationary the bike dies. I’m trying to put some money into the bike to release some more power. I’ve gotten lots of recommendations: jd jetting, new exhaust system, gearing, suspension etc. so I want to get this throttle problem fixed with the right parts. Anybody care to point me in the right direction if jetting or jetting/exhaust is the problem for me ?
  18. Hi, i have a 2014 250sx and it as you can tell by the title it goes through plugs like no tomorrow. If you aren't already aware the 2014 ktm 250sx has been known for having the most horrible jetting from the factory, when i rode it with stock jetting i fouled a plug on every start up. Pretty frustrating but anyway i changed the jetting completely, i replaced the original needle (N1EI) with a N1EH, 38 pilot and 158 main jet, air screw 1.5 turns out. I also have a 40 pilot i tried but dropped back to the 38. I run 50:1 with rock oil and 91 unleaded. So i started with the clip on the 4th position and fouled the plug within 30 seconds, moved it to the second and still had a lot of oil covering the plug. Finally i moved it to the top position and it still had a small amount so i have the air screw all the way out and its still not perfect? This doesn't happen often but it will even let off a backfire when i rev it too much but once its completely hot it will run pretty good. I read on a previous thread that a person was running a 40 pilot, 158 main and the same needle (on the 3rd position) as me on the exact same bike and year and he said it ran perfect. (he was at the same altitude which is sea level) I will note most of the time it fouled a plug was between 1/4 and full throttle so i thought about maybe going leaner with the main jet? but in saying that if i start the bike cold and not rev it at all for a couple of minutes and shut the bike off i have a bit of oil built up on my plug. So i assume there is something else wrong a part from the jetting? If it is the jetting should i try a new needle or main jet? i could be wrong but its weird i have to have the clip on the top position, air screw all the way out and an extremely lean pilot and have the bike still running rich. was wondering could this have to do with my reeds? if there was a gap? I have considered a hotter spark plug but i dont think i should considering going from the BR8ECM to a 7 plug could be up to 70 degrees differint in temp and that wouldnt be good for the piston or cylinder. Not sure if this is relevent but it could help. I ride mostly at the track, im not super fast im more a c grade rider but i usually ride it on the pipe and when i do that it wont foul a plug but if i ever let it sit for a minute or even less sometimes it can still foul plugs when i rev it. ANY help is appreciated, i have read like 20 forums and still no solution. Thanks! Ash.
  19. Reeve Harper

    KTM 85 powervalve disassembly

    Hi, I was just wondering if anyone knows how to take the powervalve governor out of a KTM/Husqvarna 85. I’ve bought a new spring for it and I don’t know how to fit it, I’ve heard the spring is in the same spot as in the bigger KTM’s but after I take the cover off the bolt underneath (pictured) just keeps turning. Does anyone know? Thanks heaps.
  20. Hey forum! I have a question about setting up my 2018 KTM 450SXF. I weigh 225 and bought a stiffer spring for the rear shock. The stock setting as far as air pressure is 10.8 bar or 156 PSI. Is it typical to raise the pressure in the fork to balance the front and rear due to the stiffer spring. I think so, but correct me if im wrong. My thought is to raise it to 11 bar or 160 psi in the fork. Stiffer rear spring rate in the rear and more pressure in the front. OK so braking bumps felt harsh at high speed, so my thought is to soften the compression so it will ride lower in the stroke. Is this right? I guess the question is do you increase the pressure and soften the compression, or keep less pressure and stiffen the compression? Is it the same? I would love a comprehensive video or information on advanced setup. Thanks in advance for any insight.
  21. Let a buddy of mine ride my 1996 ktm 250sx, 2-stroke and he managed to come down on just the shifter after a small jump. The bike would barely shift after and had to be rocked for awhile to find neutral. I tore the clutch cover, clutch and the other half of the clutch case off to inspect the shift slide things and they appeared to be working correctly so i removed them and manually used a allen head to shift the gear tumbler and at first it wouldn't shift but when it did it made a loud click and then was able to shift between 1st, neutral, 2nd, and 3rd but refuses to go to 4th and beyond. When I try to get it into 4th, right before it should shift it makes a loud click as if when im spinning the gear tumbler, its turning something into a wall. Im lost at this point and want to know if its probably in my transmission and if so what could it be?
  22. As the title suggests, I've been debating the idea of throwing in a high compression piston. It will bump the compression in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F from 13.5:1 to 14:1. First and foremost my main question is, because I live under 1000 ft and usually run 97 octane REC gas, will I have to change the fuel I run or not? Also, will I have to change out the cams to aftermarket and re-time the whole motor and ignition? I guess I really don't know what to expect so any advice will definitely help! Attached below is a photo of the bike I plan on putting it in.
  23. GillespieRob

    125sx Loose Bearing Identification

    Hi All, Recently I purchased a 2012 125sx from a friend dirt cheap. The only catch, the thing would occasionally seize up. I finally got around to slitting the cases on it and this is what I found. 30-40 loose ball bearings around 4-5mm in diameter, most of them on the transmission side(I gathered most of the ones i could find for the picture below). What I didn't find where any bearing races or any indication of where these may have come from. Now I have little experience with these machines, but common sense tells me I should have clear failure of multiple bearings to produce this many loose balls. While it is unlikely, someone could have vandalized this poor bike with a handful of BB's for a BBgun. My question to you fine folks: Where do you think these BBs came from? Am i missing something obvious? Thanks for your time. External link for pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/yR40O76
  24. Max John


    Hi guys, just looking for a new set of graphics and plastics for my bike, I have a 2012 ktm sx125. Does anyone have a specific place they aware by for graphics? Does anyone the the best place to get graphics? Thanks guys.
  25. xWVxENGx

    2018 KTM 300 XC-W OTD Pricing

    For all of you lucky enough to own an '18 300 XC-W, what kind of deals could one get around this time of year? I know the '19s will be launching within the next few months. I'm wondering if I should wait until their release and save $$$ on a leftover '18. I'm on the eastern side of the U.S. by the way. Let's see the final OTD numbers!