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Found 632 results

  1. Hi everyone, so RMATV has some Dunlop D745 on sale but like usual its kinda a odd size. Now im not super picky but just wanted to know if a 120/80 would have a noticeable effect on handeling? Any though on the D745 also welcome i have done some research but it seems to be a older model so no info about it on Dunlops site.
  2. i probably sound stupid for asking this but on my bike i have a 120/100-18 tire. i know the 18 is the rim size but what do the 120 and 100 mean. what would changing them effect? also i would like to know what the best tire for street and dirt use is. i use it a ton for dirt so i want good traction but i also use it to cruise around on the street and go to school without wearing it out and/or over heating it. Ive heard the Trakmaster 2, dunlop 606, and the mt-21 are the best but i also need it to be cheap because im a little low on money. Thanks!
  3. Im sure this has been covered before but i cant seem to find a thread on it. Theres so many different tubes out there. I have no clue what ones to stay away from or what ones are the best. Im looing for a decently priced tube but one thats going to hold up. Im stocking up my trailer for next season. I race all MX. Novice rider and run 12lbs most of the time. 2013 YZ250f. thanks
  4. im curious, what pressure you guys run front and rear for different track conditions(hard pack, soft loamy rutted dirt, sand)
  5. planetwister

    Wow! Missed my street tires..

    Have been running the shinko 244's for the last 800 miles and decided since its summer I probably won't be doing much off-road, so I put the 208's back on and gained a ton of power! Corners better! Brakes better! Revs out better! Quieter! I'm gonna have trouble goin back to those 244's.. I could barely pull the front wheel off the ground in second with out clutch and I actually got up in 4th without clutch! Can't believe how heavy those shinko's were.
  6. Im new to the forum and Im not sure if this is the right place to post but here it is. I took just my rear tire into the shop to get the tube replaced. when i put the tire back on my 2003 wr450 the tire was hard to spin. i rode the bike around the block to see i could hear or feel anything. the bike comes to quicker stop than normal when i let off the throttle like the brakes are on and there is a squeaking coming from the brakes and the rotor is very hot. I didn't have this problem before i removed the tire to get the tube changed. any suggestions?
  7. Im looking at Avon AM44 Distanzias and the closest size they make is 110/80S-18 (rear) and 90/90-21 (front) Will these tires fit 100/100-18 and 80/100-21 rims?
  8. I see so many guys that only ride trails, or ride enduro/hare scrambles running MX tires. I did for a long time until I figured out that a purpose built tire was the way to go, your bike feels like a whole new bike if you run a tire for your type of riding and terrain. After years of running various MX tires and never being really happy with them I finally switched to the Kenda Parker K772, I thought I had bought a new bike. So who else that primarily rides trails or enduros is still stuck in the MX tire rut, and why don't you get out of it?
  9. So I'm throwing 32 on the front not the 31 that was a mistake. And wanted some input on the rear. I know I will probably get all different answers but humor me. I live in ny And I am bad at describing the type of dirt but the best I can do as say it is maybe mid to hard by the end of the day. A lot of clay so its soft too start with but does pack down by the end of the day with some dirt on top of the hard pack. It definatly is not soft loam or fluffy soil but is also not extreme hard pack but does get packed down by the end of the day so my question is should I run the 32 same as the front or the 52 and maybe it will last longer.
  10. Blutarsky

    MX51 'FA'

    Did Dunlop fix the MX51 Front? I have not been a fan of this tire. It is OK when new (still not as good as the BStone M403 or M203 Fronts), but then it wears...it starts to get very unpredicatble. Then...recently...I saw some MX51s with the FA designation. Here is the new description from Dunlop: Sounds like as a replacement to the 756....the MX51 was a flop...and Dunlop listened to the complaints. Has anyone tried the new FA? How does it compare to the std MX51? I have been riding the MX31 Front, MX51 rear combo. I like it for softer tracks and in the winter/wet. But recently...I have been riding a track that has some soft sandy sections...and some medium to hard sections. All the outer knobs on the 31 are tearing at the base. One more ride and I will start tearing them off....so I am thinking about a new front...and wondering if it is worth trying the 'new' MX51 FA
  11. MOmilkman

    Changing a Dirt Bike Tire

    Tires cost a lot of money so why would you want to give your dealer even more to put one on? Now a lot of people have different methods and ideas on how to do it properly and I am sure they all work fine, but if you follow my instructions you should be changing tires in no time. Item's you will need to have on hand before you start this project: A waist high place to work, 2 or 3 tire irons (I prefer Motion Pro's), a new tire, a new tube (optional), baby powder (optional), an air source (compressor), and a rockin' stereo, and patience! (the last is probably the most important!) Note: Tires are much harder to change if they are cold. If you can lay your new tire in the sun or somewhere hot while taking off your old tire, do it! It will make your life much simpler when it comes time to put the new tire on. Step 1 - Getting your old tire off Once you have the wheel off the bike the easiest way to approach this task is to find a surface to work on so you wont have to stoop over and work off the floor, as that can get tiresome. I found an old barrel that was once used for electrical cable and it fits the diameter (18") of the rim of my bike perfectly. It can be smaller but I wouldn't go larger than that because the rim will fall into the barrel once you get the tire off. Now that the tire is off the bike and you have a good working surface, the first thing you want to do is take off the rim lock nut(s) and the valve stem nut. Remove the core of the valve stem or just release the pressure in the tube (all the way) by pressing on the valve stem core. Now lay the tire on your flat surface and push with your hands trying to break the bead of the tire from the surface of the rim. BE ABSOLUTELY SURE BEADS ON BOTH SIDES ARE BROKEN DOWN BEFORE PROCEEDING If the tire rubber is a hard compound then it might be hard to break free, but just keep pushing on it with the palms of your hands and it will eventually break free. (Motion Pro makes a tire bead separator specifically for this job. It is not necessary but it does make the job easier) Break the bead loose on both sides of the tire. You can use C-clamps to hold the sidewalls together and MAKE SURE to get the bead(s) down in the drop center portion of the rim opposite the tire irons. Lay your tire down on your working surface with the sprocket side down, grab your tire irons (I like the Motion Pro tire irons myself) and put the lip of 1 tire iron on the tire. Now, pull the iron back. I like to rest the handle of the iron under the brake rotor to hold it there (it will not hurt your rotor) while I work on the second bite. NOTE: VERY IMPORTANT! - After you take the first bite on the tire take your palm and push down on the bead all the way around the tire. Then flip it over and do the same thing on the sprocket side. The purpose of this is to keep the bead of the tire to the center most part of the rim and will allow you to stretch the tire over the rim MUCH EASIER! (Additionally, it will make it much easier if you do this after the 2nd and 3rd bites also) The second bite is the toughest step in getting the tire off. It is kind of tough to get the tire iron in between the rubber of the tire and the rim because of the pressure the 1st tire iron already putting on the tire. The secret is not taking to big of a bite on the second and 3rd bites. Wiggle the tire iron back and forth until you can slip it under for a second bite on the tire. Pull it back and rest the handle under the brake rotor. Now if you have a 3rd tire iron then you’re in great shape. Just use it like you did #2 tire iron and then rest the handle of #3 tire iron under the rotor. Then go back to the first tire iron and remove it. (this may take some wiggling and patience) and place it in front of #3 and keep rotating them until you have one side of the tire off. (If you only have 2 tire irons then it might make it a little tougher but can easily be done. Just keep rotating the 2 tire irons until one side of the tire is off) Now that one side of the bead of the tire is off, reach inside the tire and grab the rim lock(s) and pull it out. Also grab the tube and pull it out. All you have to do now is get the rest of the tire off the rim. This is the last step in getting the old tire off. This part is very easy, keep the rim with the rotor side up and put your tire iron past the bead that you just pried off and down to the lower bead. With the lip side of the iron facing the tire pry the lever downward toward the rotor and rest the handle once again under the rotor. The tire will be in a severely misshapen manner at this point but that's fine. Grab your 2nd tire iron and do the same thing and then your 3rd if you have one. Once you get about 5 or 6 bites on the tire just grab the sucker and pull it off. It shouldn't be any problem at this point. NOW IT’S OFF! Congratulations! Probably the most important step when putting a tire back on is not pinching the new tube. If your old tube does not look extremely chaffed you can probably use it again but using a new tube each time you change a tire is the best preventative method to keep from getting a flat on the trail. I use Bridgestone Heavy Duty tubes because they are much thicker than a standard tube and therefore wear quite a bit longer. Thicker tube = less wear = less flats. But if you are learning how to change a tire chances are you are going to pinch 1 or 2 tubes with the tire irons before you figure out the best method. But you can greatly reduce your chances of pinching the tube by not pulling the lever all the way forward. Instead, just push the lever enough the tire slips on, and then back off. It is much easier to get cheapo tubes in than it is the heavy duty tubes. Heavy duty tubes run about $18 and cheap Kenda standard tubes run about $7-8. So staring with a cheapo tube might not be a bad idea either. Your call. Step 2 - Putting that new tire on First thing you should do before putting your new tire on is check the rim for any sharp edges that might catch the tube as you are installing it. If there are any present then take a file to it and smooth it out. Secondly, look at the sidewall of the new tire. Does it have a arrow on it pointing in a certain direction? If it does then be sure and mount the tire with the arrow pointing in the direction that the tire will be rotating. I run Dunlop tires myself and I have never seen an a arrow on one but I know some tires do so watch out for that. Paddle tires are one specific kind of tire that has to be mounted in the correct direction. You want the sand to be "scooped" by the tire not hit by the backside of the paddle. The first thing you want to do is lay the tire over the top of the rim. (still working from the rotor side) Now, you can push it on about halfway before you will have to start levering it on. Grab your tire irons and this time use the lip of the tire iron on the edge of the rim and not the tire. Pry outwardly (away from the the wheel). Hold the lever in place and grab your other tire iron and get another bite. (not too big of a bite - about 2-3 inches apart) Keep rotating tire irons until the first side is on. Next thing you want to do is put in the rim lock(s). Thread the nut on to the rim lock after you run it through the rim. Do not thread it down all the way just 2 or 3 turns after it starts to thread. Fill the tube with just enough air that the tube is not collapsed on itself. You want the tube to have enough density that when you slide a tire iron in it wont pinch it when you are putting on the final bead. Now take your baby powder (or talcum powder) and coat the outside of the tube. This will help the tube slide around inside the tire and the tube will not chaff so much. Now comes probably the toughest part of changing a tire. (not what you wanted to hear is it?) Take the tube and place it inside the tire with the valve stem parallel with the hole in the rim. The tube should be in the tire but also over the rim as much as possible. Now you want to get the valve stem though the hole from the inside right? Seems impossible but with some determination and a little luck you can squeeze your hands in there and guide it though. I learned a little trick years ago on how to make this much simpler than just guessing where the valve stem pokes through. Just take a very small screwdriver and from the inside of the rim (spoke side) run it though the valve stem hole Then put the valve stem on the end of the screwdriver and guide it through. Voila! No problem eh? Now all you have to do is put the last side of the tire on and your done. Starting where the rim lock is push the tire down over the edge of the rim using your hands. Just push as hard as you can and you will see the tire sliding over the edge of the rim. Do this as far as you can moving from the rim lock outwards. Once you have pushed it on as far as you can, FLIP THE WHOLE WHEEL OVER AND MAKE SURE TO PUSH THE BEAD DOWN IN THE DROP CENTER PORTION OF THE RIM. This is very important to do. Not only will it make your tire change so much easier, if you stretch the tire bead too much you can ruin the tire. I know, because I did just that when I first started changing tires. Now flip it back over (rotor side up) and spray the bead of the tire down with a slippery substance. Soap and water works great. You want to have this on for 2 reasons. One, It helps the tire slide over the rim easier and two it helps you keep from pinching your tube. Now grab a tire iron and place the lip of the lever on the rim carefully noting that you DO NOT have the tube pinched in between the rim and the tire iron. Push the tire iron back and hold it in place. Grab the other tire iron (hopefully it is close to you) and place it on the opposite side and lever down another section of the tire. Keep holding the first lever in place and pull out the second lever and keep working it all the way around. After about 3 bites, flip the tire over (to sprocket side) and push the bead down all the way around. Do this on the rotor side again too. Once again, remember, this is the most important thing to keep doing when changing tires. Keep levering the final side on until you get the last of the bead back on the rim. Now you have changed a tire!!!! All you have to do now is put the nut on the valve stem and put some air in the tire. Wet down both sides of the tire bead with soap and water and put about 60 lbs of air in the tube. This will seat your tire. If it doesn't then let the air back out, bounce the tire on the ground in the area it is not seating and fill with air again. Then tighten your rim lock, valve stem nut and set to the correct air pressure and put that sucker back on and go riding!
  12. When my Dad got a new rim and spokes for his XR600, I figured that I should be able to do it myself with no problem. Looked for a truing jig and realized that they are fairly expensive. So I started to look around the garage to see what I could use that would be square. Ended up using a pair of axle stands, two quick grips to hold the axle in place, a wooden match, some wire and duct tape. Then set it on top of a table so I could easily work without bending down and being uncomfortable. The wooden match was used to gauge the lateral runout (side to side wobble). Just tape it on there so you can adjust it to get closer and gauge how to adjust the nipples. For radial run out (up and down wobble) I used safety wire. When it reached a low spot, I heard it scratch a little bit, since it isn't a nice finish I didn't care about scratches. When I was finished and I had absolutely no wobble left in the rim I mounted it on bike and spun it again with perfect results. Best advice is to take it slow and make minor adjustments. Might take a little longer, but small adjustments are easy to correct and big ones really screw you up.
  13. Any one using this tire? What do you think about it? It comes in my size 100/100-18. I ride woods and hare scrambles in GA. Rocks, roots, clay, hard stuff, can also be pretty slick when wet. My KTM 250XCF-W came with Bridgestone 203/204 tires on it. I now have Bridgestone 403/404's on it. I liked the 203/204's better. I feel they had more grip but didn't last quite as long. I was wanting to give the Pirelli's a try.
  14. Sierra_rider

    Tusk Impact rim - front

    2 reviews

    DETAILS The Tusk Impact Complete Wheel is a quality motocross wheel and off-road motorcycle wheel. This motorcycle wheel is made from the best materials and craftsmanship to ensure durability and performance. Pre-assembled and ready to go; includes rim, spokes, hub, bearings, seals, and spacers. Wheel kit includes one complete front wheel and one complete rear wheel. Performance wheel assembly for motocross and off-road racing applications. Pre-assembled wheel is complete with rim, spokes, hub, bearings, seals, and spacers. Anodized rim is constructed from 7050 T-6 aluminum to be the strongest in the market. Hub is forged (not cast) from 6061 T-6 aluminum and CNC machined for precision fit, increased strength, maximum weight savings, and a factory look. Spokes are made from quality 304 stainless steel. Wheel assembly is complete with high-quality sealed bearings, seals, and hard anodized wheel spacers. "The wheels were amazingly good. This is the motocross wheel value of the century." - Motocross Action Magazine.
  15. TillamookTrailJunkie

    RAD Mfg. CACR 18" rear wheel 2.15x18

    1 review

    GENERAL INFORMATION RAD’s proprietary 7000 series import alloy rims Comparable to Excel Takasago series rims Nine popular anodized colors to choose from Available for minis and 125cc-up. Standard and Supermoto sizes Limited Warranty CACR Rims come with one rim lock hole
  16. rmayrkx125

    Dunlop Tires GEOMAX MX52

    3 reviews

    GEOMAX MX52 KEY FEATURES Derived from top-level AMA Supercross and Motocross racing New Dunlop-patented block-within-a-block knobs offer more progressive cornering action Enhanced handling and knob durability via more flex, and less knob tearing through recess carcass design Superior bump absorption through new damping control sidewall rubber compound and recess carcass design Directional front tire design provides enhanced grip and steering feel Superior grip in a wider variety of terrain REAR GEOMAX MX52 TECHNOLOGY Progressive Cornering Block Technology (PCBT): A Dunlop-patented block-within-a-block design that offers more progressive cornering action and aids in slide control. Enhanced Carcass Tension Control System (CTCS): Tuned carcass flexibility from recesses placed strategically along the tire carcass to help smooth ride characteristics and allow the bike to follow a line more accurately. Controlled-rebound Rubber Element in the Sidewall: This construction helps to damp out bounce, acting as a suspension component within the tire, so the tire can better follow the track surface. Staggered Distribution of Center Blocks: Spreads the load on the tire and helps with impact damping and stability, especially in whoops and hard-pack conditions. FRONT GEOMAX MX52 TECHNOLOGY New Directional Tread Pattern: Offers great traction and steering feel for a wide range of riders who have differing riding styles. Enhanced Carcass Tension Control System (CTCS): Tuned carcass flexibility offers enhanced feel and steering accuracy. Unique Tread Block Distribution: Knob design, pattern and knob construction are optimized to work in one direction, which provides advantages in feel and traction.
  17. ThumperTalk

    MSR Ultra Heavy-Duty Tube

    1 review

    1.75mm thick heavy-duty tubes give serious flat protection Made with high-quality rubber
  18. 2 reviews

    NOTE - SAFETY WARNING: For information on tire care, safety, maintenance, mounting, manufacturers warranty and other information consult tire manufacturers publication(s) and/or website for complete tire information. The tires used for your application must have a load index and speed rating equal to or greater than the tires fitted as original equipment. For street legal supermoto bikes Softer compound-race inspired for excellent grip Lighter weight construction H-Rated Not recommended for large displacement touring applications D.O.T. Legal Tubeless Load/Speed Rating 69H
  19. ThumperTalk

    Pirelli Scorpion MXH Tire

    1 review

    Tire Application: Hard Speed Rating: M Load Rating: 63 Position: Rear Rim Size: 19 Tire Type: Offroad Tire Size: 120/80-19 NOTE - SAFETY WARNING: For information on tire care, safety, maintenance, mounting, manufacturers warranty and other information consult tire manufacturers publication(s) and/or website(s) for complete tire information. The tires used for your application must have a load index and speed rating equal to or greater than the tires fitted as original equipment. Designed for the hard-packed supercross and motocross tracks Front tire features reversible tread pattern to dial in best performance for intermediate or hard terrain Twin knobs allow high degree of flexibility while compound keeps their edges sharp Reinforced sidewall for puncture resistance, yet lightweight due to processing technique Low-profile design for quick, precise steering 120/80-19
  20. ThumperTalk

    Shinko 003 Stealth Radial Tire

    1 review

    Load Rating: 75 Tire Application: Race Tire Construction: Radial Tire Type: Street Speed Rating: W Rim Size: 17 Tire Size: 200/50-17 Position: Rear NOTE - SAFETY WARNING: For information on tire care, safety, maintenance, mounting, manufacturers warranty and other information consult tire manufacturers publication(s) and/or website(s) for complete tire information. The tires used for your application must have a load index and speed rating equal to or greater than the tires fitted as original equipment. Slick/dimple design, great for production and drag racing, and serious sport riding Soft compound for rapid warmup, gives racing slick like performance W speed rated (168 mph), Aramid belted, DOT approved Available in Ultra-Soft compound - great for drag racing and track use
  21. ThumperTalk

    Pirelli MT60-R Tire

    1 review

    Tire Construction: Radial Tire Type: Dual Sport Speed Rating: V Load Rating: 69 Rim Size: 17 Tire Size: 160/60-17 Position: Rear NOTE - SAFETY WARNING: For information on tire care, safety, maintenance, mounting, manufacturers warranty and other information consult tire manufacturers publication(s) and/or website(s) for complete tire information. The tires used for your application must have a load index and speed rating equal to or greater than the tires fitted as original equipment. Corsa radial with maximum grip tread Superb cornering and straight-line stability; exceptional wet-weather performance Excellent traction, on- and off-road; provides light, responsive handling Designed for machines like the KTM Duke V-speed rated 160/60VR-17 TL
  22. mebgardner

    Motion Pro Rim Locks

    1 review

    Heavy-duty die cast aluminum body Fits 2.5 width rims Weighs 4.5 oz Molded rubber flap to protect against abrasion of inner tube Ribbed alloy contact surface locks tire securely to rim Recommended for use on all off-road machines and any application using low tire pressure Recommended tightening torque on nut is 14 lb/ft
  23. Bedunjgi

    PIRELLI MT 43 PRO TRIAL

    http://www.pirelli.c..._pro_trial.html I am starting a new topic hoping that we can share info & riding experiences on these tires in one place after a renewed interest in them these past few years. I have a new set (front & rear) ready to go on as my last set is getting worn after over a year & more than 2000 miles of dual sport use. Share everything you know about these. I will start; Has anyone come up with tricks to get the MT43 unclogged when they pack up in certain types of muddy conditions besides low pressure? It's the rainy season here & I get stuck from time to time even at low pressure with Tubliss. I was riding with some buddies recently & they made it through a muddy section with their light off road only bikes with knobby tires & my tires turned into slicks. I was doing better every where else than them but mud packing the MT43s is a problem at this time of year. I have been thinking of getting a second set of wheels with aggressive knobs for these conditions but would like to hear feedback from others before I do. I have even considered bringing a few snow claws (http://www.mv-motorr...257366418-11537) or making some lightweight chains or kevlar rope to wrap around the wheel for those rare occasions (especially when I am alone with no one to push). I read various tips including putting the bike on the side stand & spinning it in gear to fling the mud off when it packs up but wanted to hear others feedback. Overall I love the MT43s front & rear.
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