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Found 45 results

  1. I am sure it’s been asked but are there any engine mods you would recommend doing on a 3000 mile engine when doing the 2nd and 5th gear swap?
  2. zackman97

    XR650L No Start

    Cant get my bike to start fearing motor damage. Had a nice day this week so i went for a ride after the bike sat all winter on a drip charger. When riding i noticed the bike was bogging down at stoplights and would die unless it was given some throttle (just assuming some old gas in the take) so after it dying and having to restart it probably 3 times, I got to the next light and it died again but when cranking back over it was acting like a dead battery so pushed it off the road attempted to start more and it showed signs of battery getting weaker and weaker. No big deal put in in the truck and took it home to charge the battery. After charging back to full tired to start bike again and it showed signs of the dying battery again (original 2009 battery) so i got a new battery charged it up and put it in once again it cranked over slow lights dimming during cranking tried starting fluid too, so now i'm out of ideas and was hoping you guys and gals could help me out. The bike does have oil its on the lower side but its still there. Bike is a 2009 XR650L
  3. I'm looking for information on how to route the carburetor hoses on a 2005 Honda XR650L. It's a California model, but it has the smog stuff removed and blocked off. It's uncorked and has an FMF slip on exhaust, along with Dave's Mod done. It would be nice to have a diagram, but pictures or even just an explanation would work. Just looking to see how best to set up the carb hoses. Thank you
  4. alfredkarius

    Silly gas tank design

    Hey people This is my first post. A friend of mine just bought a used 2012 XR650L. He had to ride it about 500km on road to get it to his house. He said that whenever he had to switch to reserve it kept running out of gas even though there was plenty of gas in the tank. I offered to take a look, assuming that it was a dirty petcock filter. First I tried to drain all the gas but it stopped flowing out the petcock even though there was plenty of gas in the tank, reinforcing my assumption. Took the tank off and noticed that all the gas was on the one side of the tank. Tipped the tank so that all the gas flowed to the petcock side and drained about five litres out. Checked the petcock filter and it was clean. I can't believe that Honda would sell a bike where the two halves of the tank weren't connected, like all the old school street bikes I have worked on. So when riding down the freeway and having to switch to reserve, one then has to to stop on the side of the road and lean the bike over so that the gas flows to the petcock side of the tank. This from the leading Japanese motorcycle manufacturer?
  5. Ok, so I read all the forums and watched all the youtube videos, and read the instructions included with the kit from XR's only. Still confused.... First off, my 2016 XR650L did not have the charcoal canister in front of the smog pump as many in youtube videos do. Did they modify this in later models? Also, the directions from XR's only were confusing. I totally removed the cannister just in front of airbox and re-routed the transmission vent which now ties into the lower airbox vent, is this correct? Small plug used to plug top of airbox. Removed smog pump, installed block off plates, removed carburetor vent hose and capped off at the T-connector behind fuel petcock. Left over parts - Small plug 2 small caps Any comments? Bike runs great, no noticeable throttle response or power, but definite change in popping during deceleration.
  6. Seat must have landed on a rock when I put the bike down the other day. Does anyone have any ideas on fixing that mounting hole?
  7. Opinions over on Advrider seem to think that the T700 will be worse off road than the XR650L. So I am wondering, do the 2-5 gear swap plus 675 conversion or just save money for the T700? Anybody here thinking of giving up their XR650L for the T700?
  8. photonicreno

    94 XR650L No electric start

    Hi all! I've got an issue, one of many when it comes to bikes. I searched throughout all the pages I could find pertaining to my situation and couldn't find very much useful information. So the issue is, the bike has no electric start.... until it's hot enough to melt steel that is. It will bump start first time every time. But I can sit and crank the starter over for ever and it'll never start until the charger is bumped up past 200 amps. Not good. The story so far, Got the bike for 1k cash. Guy said it has no spark and no second gear. This particular guy also only ever rode newer crotch rockets. Brought it home pulled the choke, attached battery charger and she fired right up. Ran like absolute crap, but oh well I figure it's an older bike with only 10k miles so it probably needs a good carb cleaning. Took the carb apart and didn't know I messed something up until way later(didn't tighten down main jet). Oh well she runs well enough if I can get her started. Moved from California to Oklahoma. Eventually found the money to fix 2nd gear, and as I am a certified Honda small engine technician apprentice I figured it would be no big deal. Completely tore down engine to it's roots replaced 2nd, and 5th gear(because 5th gear connects to 2nd on the countershaft) dogs were worn pretty badly on both. The engine looked quite good compared to most others I've seen. Put the engine back together as per the service manual. Did all the right steps including loosening the banjo bolts to test for proper oil pressure. I even tore apart the electric starter to clean the contacts and the brushes and replace the dielectric grease. Adjusted the valves as per the service manual, replaced all gaskets, o-rings, seals, and oil filter. Finally after about a month of waiting on parts and reassembly I get to start her, only she doesn't. Electric start is still giving me the same issues I've always had. So I replaced the Ignition coil, CDI box, and put a new battery in, plus the starter motor rebuild. Nothing. Still cranks forever. I said what the heck and tried to push it slightly down hill and bump start it, and voila... fired right up! Once she gets hot enough and the stator charges the battery enough it'll electric start... sometimes. So I looked towards ignition, used a tool called ignition mate. Pretty awesome tool if you can afford it. Well while cranking the ignition mate reads the spark plug is getting 1-4kw of "spark" every cycle, well it only fires after getting up past 5kw sometimes 6-8kw. And sometimes the ignition would be intermittent as in it wouldn't give any spark at all. I cycle the ignition and it seems to soft reset the bike as it will usually give it back spark. I tested this with the new and old CDI box, the old one would never spark. Ever. So I threw it in the trash. A month later I stil l can't figure it out. Is there something I'm missing? TL;DR Bike won't start using electric start only bump start before and after engine rebuild Electric start works after pushing the starter past about 200 cold cranking amps or when hot.
  9. Recently bought a '03 XR650L, lots of aftermarket parts but does not appear it has ever been used off road. Took the rear wheel off to clean it up, OEM rear sprocket looks good, very little wear, took the front sprocket off, output shaft looks fine, front sprocket looks fine,, it is an OEM, chain has no master link so I have to assume it is original. Is this unusual? I plan to replace it all.
  10. I've had zero luck finding red side panels specifically for the XR650L. I want all red plastics. If you want to know why, it's because I rode off-road in the 80s, and that's how Hondas looked then. It's nostalgic for me. The older XR panels are red, but they seem to be shorter with different holes for the frame mounting points. I came across these on eBay (link below), and they look like they match up pretty well to the OEM side panels on the XRL. They do look slightly shorter as in they won't go as far towards the back of the bike. Anyone tried these yet? If they can be used with a reasonable amount of modification, I may give them a shot. I'm planning to use yellow number backgrounds on the sides and front too. I attached a side-by-side comparison. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Sides-Covers-Panels-Plastics-1988-2002-Honda-XR600-XR600r-XR-600-600R/333057350167?hash=item4d8bc3da17:g:hvUAAOSwSidcWmFX:sc:USPSPriority!44092!US!-1:rk:20:pf:0
  11. tinfoil

    08' 650L Starting Issues

    Cool, first post. Bottom Line Up Front: The bike sat in the previous owner's garage for about 5 years without being touched. New battery, CDI, Sparkplug and fuel and it cranks but won't start. I have almost zero mechanical knowledge aside from changing oil and oil filters on cars. I've watched my dad take apart his race bikes as a kid but never really knew what was going on. He thinks its the carb but I'm worried I'll start taking it apart and not know how to get it back together. My local dealership said it would be sitting in their garage for 3 weeks before they even take a look at it to tell me whats wrong with it. I'm just wondering if anyone here has any suggestions on what I should be looking at. If the consensus leads to yanking the carb off and going into I'll bite the bullet and do it. Just want to get more opinions on the matter before I ruin it. Thanks!
  12. Hey dear folk! I need your help. A bit of background info, I’m a complete noob when it comes to holding a wrench and doing anything more than filling up the bike. I have however had an interest for as long as I’ve had a bike to make it mine, and that’s why I’m writing to you now. I just bought a donor bike, a Honda NX650 which a friend of mine is helping me fix up and then modify to my liking (I’m hoping to end up with a gorgeous scrambler in about 9 months). We found a hairline scratch in the cylinder and need to bore it. This leads me to my question. Should I get a 1st overbore performance piston or keep the compression ratio as is? If so is there anything in particular I will need to modify to tolerate the high compression piston? If I do get the performance piston, should I also get a new carburetor, hot cam, and new exhausts? I am planning on new exhausts anyway (2-1 from an XRL) and I’m planning on removing the airbox and getting a K/N pod air filter. Again, keep in mind I know nothing, my friend has however fixed up a bunch of XRLs and cars but never really used performance parts. Help me out with the decision please, I would also like to keep the whole build to a reasonable cost (I know this is a very relative number). I should also add that I want to keep the DNA of the bike, for example keeping the fuel tank instead of switching to a smaller rounder one as one usually sees in most custom builds. The aim of the whole build is to have an insanely fun bike to ride, both in the city and off-road, as well as giving it a bunch of my personality 😊 Thanks a lot for any help! Best, Alex
  13. My new old 2013 XR650L! Like many others, I too can tend to get caught up in the endless race to have the latest and greatest techno gadget, bike, firearm or whatever. But, many years and dollars later, I have realized that the race is futile and the satisfaction of obtaining the object of our desire is ephemeral. The new wears off quick, but the payments seem to go on forever! It was not that long ago, that I would have scoffed at the idea of not having modern inverted, fully adjustable cartridge forks, fuel injection, at least 50 HP and feather light weight on a motorcycle that goes off-road. Also, I have pursued the elusive unicorn of a bike that can “do it all”. It does not exist. No bike can do everything well; so, unless you have the means to have a bike for every mission, you will be riding a bike that is a conglomeration of compromises. The loved but gone KLR650 My last, and recently sold, old tech bike was my 2013 KLR650. I took a lot of time to tweak it to my satisfaction, and I really hated to sell it. But, for most of the dual sport riding that I do locally, I am in deep sand, mud, occasional whoops, brush and tight spaces. The big girl weighed about 445 lbs. (as I had built her), and she just wasn’t built for that mission. So, I had to say goodbye. But, she found a new home with Barry, who purchased her to do the Trans America Trail. That is what I built her for! I pondered many replacement choices, such as the modern KTM 690 Enduro R and Husqvarna 701 Enduro, as well as the KTM 500EXC and the new 2019 Honda CRF450L. I also thought hard about the old school Suzuki DR650S and DRZ400. I considered older KTM and Husqvarna big bore thumpers too. All of them could have worked for me, with each having its own strengths and weaknesses. In the end, I decided to go old school and purchase a used bike to keep cost down. I also wanted to have a simple bike, that is easy to work on. I liked the idea of screw & locknut verses shim over bucket or shim under bucket valves. The ability to do a valve adjustment with just a wrench and screwdriver, in under 30 minutes, was very appealing to me. I also liked the idea of an air-cooled engine. I certainly know that these features don’t allow for the most precise tolerances and high performance, but that was not what this bike was to be about for me. I have other modern bikes that fill that niche. Also, OEM and aftermarket parts availability were a primary concern. Other requirements were long travel suspension that could be made to work well off-road, a high ground clearance, 350 lbs. max weight, a torque rich motor and the ability to carry moderately loaded soft luggage for long trips. I required a bike that handles single track reasonably well, but also can comfortably run at 70 mph all day and be reasonably comfortable for 300 miles of pavement on out of state dual-sport rides. My local dual-sport rides are typically about 90 miles of pavement (round trip) and 20-30 miles of trails. Lastly, one of the non-quantifiable and intangible requirements for this bike was to take me back to a simpler time, to my early teens. A time when I was in the garage tinkering with my 1973 Honda CT70H, or my Bultaco Pursang 175, while listening to Led Zeppelin or Heart. It was a time when the only news I got was delivered by Walter Cronkite and the only correspondence was via the US Mail. I would happily surrender my Android, computer, internet and 60” flat screen to go back to a time when people actually talked to each other. A time that we only had 3 TV channels to watch, but somehow it was more than enough. I ultimately bought a 2013 Honda XR650L. It fit the above requirements better than anything else I could come up with. As a bonus, red is my favorite color! Maiden voyage of the BRP. With @Bryan Bosch at the Historic Richloam Gen Store (Est. 1921) Bryan Bosch standing next to the orange rocket and the BRP. This was the BRP's maiden voyage to Richloam. This photo is in front of the historic Richloam General Store. If you like to see cool, old things, go check this place out. One of the interesting things on display is an old 1902? Sears Roebuck catalog. In it, you can see listings for items such as a Marlin lever action rifle for $12.00. This ride is the typical mission that I wanted the BRP for. I am not in a hurry or trying to set the world's fastest pace. I want to slow down and travel back to a simpler time! Today was a double bonus for me, as I got to ride my BRP for the first time, and I got to try out my new USWE Ranger 9 Hydration Pack. I love the pack for its innovative features and comfort. The biggest plus for the USWE is that it does not shift and bounce around on your back. See the @Bryan Bosch full review of it which will be forthcoming. USWE Ranger 9 "No Dancing Monkey" My new (to me) BRP is my current project. I am building it with the following objectives: Improve suspension performance to accommodate my weight (200lbs.) and riding style (aggressive). Improve engine performance without sacrificing reliability or the ability to run on regular, low octane gas. Reduce weight. Increase fuel range. Tailor ergonomics for me (6’2”, 34-inch inseam). Streamline and de-clutter unnecessary hardware. Reinforce rear subframe to handle heavier cargo loads. Upgrade lighting to high output LED’s. Upgrade handguards to something more trail-worthy than the OEM guards. Install Garmin Amps Rugged Mount with connection to battery. Install battery tender lead that also powers my Antigravity Batteries Micro-Start Mini Tire Inflator Replace OEM mirrors with mirrors that swing out of the way (without tools) for trail use. Over twenty years ago, shortly after getting out of the military, I had an XR600R that I used for trail riding and hare scrambles. I raced it at a couple of MX races (for fun) even though I also had a YZ250 at the time. Thus, I had a general idea of what I would be getting into with the XR650L. This photo of me on my XR600R was taken at the Reddick Hare Scrambles in 1996. Man, that Supertrapp was LOUD! It did make passing a little easier, because the noise usually scared the rider in front out of the way. I loved that bike (once I got it started). @xmxvet racing a BRP You meet the nicest people (or puppies) on a dual-sport! @Bryan Bosch with a sweet little dog that was either lost or abandoned deep in Richloam. She was hot and dehydrated. Bryan skillfully carried her on his KTM 690 Enduro R back to civilization where we were able to find a nice family to take her in. BRP mods have commenced! The first thing I am doing to the XR650L is to reduce weight by removing unnecessary parts and clutter. The first two pounds were simple. I removed the passenger foot pegs. The next item to go was the AIS (Air Injection System) or Smog Pump. This not only removes two pounds, but also cleans up the clutter on left side of the motor and gets rid of the lean deceleration pop. Some have reported that it can slightly improve throttle response as well. I haven't had a chance to evaluate the performance aspect yet. Removal of the AIS requires the use of an inexpensive smog block off kit. Here's a before and after photo: Before After On the scale. 2 pounds gone! Next, I removed the seat strap which was unnecessary for my purposes and uncomfortable. I also removed the front reflectors. This bike will rarely be ridden at night. Today, I installed a set of Renthal 971-08 7/8" handlebars. These are the OEM bars on my 2017 KX450F. I like the bend of the bars a lot. Additionally, I prefer 7/8" bars over 1 1/8" bars for the slightly softer (more flex) feel. I have arthritis in all of my joints, and hard impacts like roots, square edged braking bumps or slap down landings off of jumps can take a toll on my wrists. Fat bars feel harsher to me. An additional benefit is the crossbar which I like because it is a place to mount my Giant Loop handlebar bag. I have also found that the crossbar is a very convenient and comfortable place to rest my hand while making inputs into my Garmin Montana 680T. The Renthal 971-08 bars are about 7 oz. lighter than the OEM bars, and have a lot less sweep. The sweep on the OEM bars felt like it placed my hands in my lap, and my wrists were bent at an uncomfortable angle. The 971's are a huge improvement over the OEM bars! OEM bars Renthal 971-08 Renthal 971-08 (top) vs OEM (bottom). The 971-08's have much less sweep, but have about the same rise. Even though I am tall, I prefer lower bars, as I feel more connected to the front of the bike with lower bars. Tall bars make a bike's steering feel sort of vague to me, instead of precise. Plus, the "attack" position feels more natural with lower bars, as it naturally pulls you more over the front wheel of the bike. I got to try out these handlebars last weekend and they are a huge improvement over the stock bars. I had a minor "duel-sport" collision with @bryan bosch on his KTM 690 Enduro R. This leads me to my next mod which is my Doubletake "Enduro" Mirrors. Bryan has the Doubletake "Adventure" mirrors on his 690. In the collision, his right mirror pivoted around and was completely unscathed, performing as designed! The mirror design not only prevents the mirror itself from getting damaged, but also protects the front brake and clutch perches from breaking. Here's some pics of the mirrors I just installed: Retracted for trail riding I love the mirrors! The optical clarity seems even better than the OEM Honda mirrors, as the rear view images seem sharper. And, they do not add any weight to the bike. This is a quote from their website: "We will warranty the mirror body for the life of the product, but for obvious reasons cannot extend the same protection to the glass insert. We do sell the glass separately if you manage to break it. We also have a satisfaction guarantee—if you receive your mirror and aren't happy with it for any reason, you can return it for a refund." All of the components are replaceable, and use Ram Mounts, which are also of very high quality. The mirrors are made in the USA! FIVE BIG STARS! Next on the list of upgrades was an IMS 4.0 Gallon Fuel Tank. But. before installing that, I figured it was a good time to remove the airbox snorkel and the welch plug that Honda installs to block access to the fuel mixture screw. The latter mod I had to do to my KLR650 as well. For the airbox snorkel, I used a cable tie and masking tape to hold the wiring harness out of the way of the 3/64" bit used to drill out the rivets. Snorkel removed Note: It is not necessary to drill all the way through the rivet. As the pictures show, you only need to drill far enough for the head of the rivet to pop off. I left the body of the rivets in to plug the holes. Next up was the carburetor fuel mixture screw access. It is blocked from the factory by a brass welch plug. I used a 3/32" bit to drill a hole through the plug, taking my time to drill slowly and just barely break through the plug. I then screwed a wood screw into the brass plug, and then used pliers to grab the screw and pull the welch plug out. Now that I had access to the D-shaped mixture screw, I found that my Motion-Pro D-shaped bit was too short to reach the screw when attached to my driver. So, I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut off only about 3mm of the housing to allow my bit to snap firmly onto the mixture screw. I used a file to chamfer the sharp edges left by the cutting wheel. Now that I could adjust the mixture, I determined that it was set at about 1 1/4 turns (counter-clockwise) out, which is too lean. I set it at 2 1/8 turns out. Another point worth mentioning is the jetting. My bike came from the previous owner with the Pro Circuit T4s installed. However, he did not change the OEM jetting, so the bike ran very lean. Before my first ride, I swapped the OEM 152 main and 50 pilot for a 160 main and 58 pilot. That was much better, but slightly rich for our hot, humid summers. I am leaving the jetting as is though, because cooler, drier weather is finally arriving! Next summer, I will try a 158 main and 55 pilot. With all of the carb work finished, I could put the carb back on the bike and start on the IMS Fuel Tank installation. Installation of the IMS tank was a breeze, with no fitment issues. I have read comments by posters online, that they had to modify the L-Brackets to make the tank fit. I can't say for sure, but I suspect that perhaps the instructions weren't followed to the T. The instructions state what I learned over forty years ago when working at a Honda dealership assembling new bikes. When installing a component with multiple attachment points, simply get all the bolts or screws started loosely. Only after all the hardware is installed do you start to tighten everything down. The tank is OEM quality, fits perfectly and allows plenty of clearance between the petcock and the engine cylinder. In my normal brain fog from lack of sleep, I forgot to weigh the OEM and IMS tanks for comparison. I do however recall a detailed listing of XR650L parts weights that indicated the stock tank with shrouds weighs about nine pounds. I estimate the IMS tank weighs about five pounds for a savings of about four pounds. I like the new look of the BRP. I may have to change that to BWP! I am very happy with the IMS 4.0 Gallon Fuel Tank. Great quality and a perfect fit. I remember IMS Products hitting the market back in 1976 with their high quality pegs, tanks and shift levers. I'm a big fan of their stuff. I also have their IMS Pro-Series Footpegs on my bike. More to come.........................
  14. Whats up ThumperTalk, I'm currently in Stuttgart, Germany and want to see if there are any other dual sport riders in the area. I know they have some MX action here but it's few and far between to see dual sports on the road. Just seeing if there are any fellow riders already in a group or we can get one going. Cheers!
  15. I want to get an aftermarket muffler for my 2018 XR650L and I've pretty much decided on an FMF product, but I'm uncertain about the difference between the PowerCore 4 with the quiet insert added, or the Q4, which apparently doesn't need a quiet insert. Is the Q4 exactly the same as the Powercore 4 with a quiet insert added?
  16. How yall doing. i have a 2008 650L and i bought it second hand from an old man down the road. i noticed that the rear shock assembly is lacking the little black "wheel adjuster" thing, at the bottom of the shock behind the mud guard (used to set the rebound). i pulled up the parts diagram for the rear shock and would like to order the parts to install it so i can adjust my suspension. Anyone here ever installed this part before? any help is appreciated thanks fellas
  17. I'm new to your community and I have a question that I'm sure has been asked and answered many times before but navigating this site can be a bit confusing at times. My question is this; is there enough adjustment in the suspension of my 2017 XR650L for my 200 lbs. for southern CA off road and street riding? I would say I'm an aggressive, intermediate rider. If so what adjustments should I make? If not what mods should I do and what size fork and rear springs should I be looking at? Any local companies here in LA? Thanks
  18. Has anyone had any luck finding a mfg that makes an aluminum shift lever that will fit the 650L? I've looked and the closest I've found was this generic aluminum one for a TRX450 4-wheeler. It will fit the XR600R just fine (I also found a Driven brand aluminum one that will fit the XR600), but the XR650L has a wider left case cover due to the larger stator and this four-wheeler lever barely has any clearance against it. If someone works at a motorcycle shop or store perhaps they could rummage around and see if there is anything out there that is close to this red one.
  19. Hi all, just joined the forum because I think I need some wisdom and help. I have just bought a newly imported into the United Kingdom 2002 XR650L, which came in from the USA, and it really needs a new set of bodywork plastics. Who supplies replacement or replica bodywork parts for these ? What else in the Honda range will fit ? Thanks
  20. Goldenpig

    XR650L Cam chain questions

    My engine wasn't starting, which led me to very little compression, which led me to a new piston, rings, rebore. I am having trouble with the timeing. I rotate the timing but to tdc, I set the cam shaft in it's position with all lobes faceing down. Then install sprocket and chain. Tensioner, then bolts for sprocket. I tighten the first and using the timing bolt I rotate the shaft 180degrees to Install the other sprocket bolt. Then I check the timing by spinning the timeing bolt a few more rounds. Come back to check top dead center for the camshaft and it's not the same as I installed. Is somethibg slipping on the bottom end? Is it supposed to do this. I don't think so only because I tried starting the bike after the piston Install and it wouldnt start. I think timing is the problem. Is there a way to adjust anything on the bottom end sprocket and components to fix the problem? I am on a trip from NY to cAnada and south to Argentina. Currently in Mexico and made friends with some locals who are letting me fix my bike and live with them.. I can get parts but they take a while to come looking for all perspectives to solve this problem.
  21. So, my story, I was using the Kenda Big Block tire (140/80 R18), a great tire, never a puncture in 2.5 years (dont ask me how many miles, i forgot to keep the record, my bad). Then i decided to install a Motoz Hybrid tire that i purchased for my CRF250X but that tire is tooooooo soft for the 650, so i need to order a new one. So now im looking to get something new, i was thinking the Michelin Anakee Wild Rear Tire (150/70R-18) the question here is, is that too much? (150/70R-18) Have you try this one? Since my wheels are not tubeless, will that tire works or not, or do i need to get a smaller one? Thanks in advance for your comments.
  22. Hi all, I seem to have now encountered a problem with the ignition system on my 2002 XR650L. When I turn on the ignition key, press the starter button, the bike fires once, then no more, even when the starter button is released and then pressed again. However, if I turn off the ignition switch, then turn it back on again, it fires just once again when the starter button is pressed, and again no more after that. Repeat the switch off and on again as many times as you like and it fires once each time after etc and no more. Wierd ! Any ideas why the bike should do this ? It appears that the ignition switch powers up the system, it fires just the once then nothing, immediately turn the key off and on again, it just does the exact same thing. Possible CDI fault, or is something earthing the system out after just once spark is discharged ? Is there another system I should think about fitting if the CDI unit is knackered ? Cheers Graham
  23. rustyrodknocker

    XR650L Are air filters necessary?

    Wondering how important an air cleaner is in the woods is. Filter wasn't sealing. Was just starting to pull the top end for a heath check up. I overheated it last summer on the highway, do to my crazy low gearing. Slide is definitely galled up. Well I was kind of thinking of a flat slide mod when I started taking it apart.... This is pretty lame. Anybody ever have a similar experience ?
  24. Hi! I am currently rebuilding my soon 25 year old Honda NX650 with my father and was interested in upgrading the piston, cam, adding the oil cooler etc. However, I have found plenty of parts for XR650L, but not for NX650. Do you know are the engines identical, or close enough so that I could buy high compression piston and Hotcam stage 1. Side question, what would you buy to upgade your Honda NX650 if you had plenty of money saved for it? I am changing all bearings, brake pads, brake disks, brake cables, wire loom, tires, most the engine will go to a shop to be tuned etc. Thanks!