Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Yz'.
-
Gday guys! I’m new to the site, but am stuck and would really love some input! Recently purchased a 2007 YZ250F - insanely cheap, because the previous owners bought it not running and didn’t know enough about bikes to ever get it working. anyway I’ll cut to the chase it hasn’t been ridden in over 12 months and cosmetically is pretty rough. Bloke told me it was seized… I got it home, put a new spark plug, cleaned the air filter, drained the tank, cleaned the peacock and replaced the fuel hose from the tap to the carby, than refilled the bike with premium unleaded. Started second kick with choke on. Sounds reasonable, abit poppy (but the exhaust needs attention where the muffler slips on is very loose - I assumed causing popping) anyway after about 20 seconds the bike dies. I started it straight back up again and gave it some throttle. If I keep the revs up the bike doesn’t stall, it backfires every now and than, and if the revs go to low it tries to stall. I have just taken the carby off, and it will be getting a clean and rebuild with fresh seals and everything. The rubber manifold gasket thing between the carby and head looks pretty perished - should I replace this whilst I’m in there? What is your opinion as to what could be happening?! also have fresh coolant (the radiators were only half full) and oil filter and oil ready to go in the bike, and am planning to double check the valve clearances this week. look forward to a reply!
-
Hi all just got myself a Yz426 2001. It Was hard to start cold and backfired a lot and after I read all there is to read I thought i should start with checking the timing and the valves. I removed everything and realized the camwheel markings where off but the cam stood in what looked like was the correct place. Can the cam slip from the wheel or is it some other cam or what might have happen? Should I get a new intake cam? Its in TDC below pictures in when I have aligned the intakewheel. When I got it it looked the same but the Exhaustwheel Was aligned and the intake wrong. Please some ideas what might have happen, is it better to align the exhaust or the intake? Cams positioned as manual position of the wheel for above picture How the cam looks when the Exhaust markers are in place and Intake almost in place should been even more downwardsexhaust wheel aligned.
-
Going to look at an 03 yz450 and was wondering what I should look for and what problems that year. I’m new to 4 strokes I’ve only had 2 strokes before this.
-
Hi, I'm new to the forums! I'm looking at buying a dirtbike in a few months and not sure what to get. This will be the first dirtbike I've ever owned but I'm an intermediate rider from riding peoples' bikes every so often. I'm 5'9 184lbs and I'm looking at a 2stroke because of easier and cheaper maintainance and you can't go wrong with the powerband. I'm looking at getting an 85 either yz, rm, or kx. Most of the riding a plan on doing is ripping around in a field and occasionally some trail riding, nothing hardcore. Would an 85 be a decent choice? Thanks
-
I getting to the point where I need to replace the crank in my ‘89 Cr250. I cannot find one for that year. Are there any that will work? I saw something about a 92-01 crank but didn’t go into details.
-
I have 2004 yz450f lowered suspension on my 2006 yz250f but I'm looking to move to 450 but want fuel injection. Can I use both front and rear suspension on any year yz that's fuel injected?
-
Ok I bought my boy a 2011 kx 85. Thought I was having issues with jetting. It's 140/45. Anyway the compression seemed low on it and my boy was running the piss out of it. Revving it hardcore. One member on here suggested I run a leak down test. I got a hold of a motion pro tester. I rigged it all up and couldn't get any hold on pressure at all. It's like I don't even have the line hooked up to the engine. So I was like shit now what? I went and grabbed and air line and started blowing air down through the tube and could hear air blowing out of somewhere on the bottom end but couldn't pin point it. Finally I decided to just take the flywheel cover off as that seemed to be the area it was coming from. Sure as shit it's full of rust and corrosion inside there. So what the hell do i do with this mess now? Do I have to replace all that crap or what?? I'll try to attach pics
-
Alright enough bullcrap. I'm gonna buy a two stroke because they are fun. I'm gonna ride it everywhere including the track. Performance aside, what is the single most reliable 2 stroke dirt bike EVER made? Is their any bike that I wont have to put a top end in every year? (Assuming I'm not an idiot who overrevvs it everywhere.) -
I was wondering if the is a way to de tune a 450 or some modifications that you can or people down to make a 450 motor more reliable? -
2018 purchased with 40-53 hours on the stock motor, pistons, vavles, shims, transmission, everything; besides an aftermarket yoshimura slip on exhaust. Checked the vavle clearance before I road it and they were all in spec with suzuki's service manual. Let's move on. The bike was primary used for I dont know what. The last owner said he did some riding in the Oregon sand dunes. No idea if it was raced before that. My goal was to turn it into a road legal dual sport. I opted for a 2012 RMZ because they come with a dignostic port behind the front number plate mounted on the ECU that when kicked over provides a constant voltage of 13.50V to 14.50V ish. To power all the road legal stuff. Upon completion I replaced the hour meter with a Trail Tech Endurance 2 at 0 miles and 0 hours. Other then a stainless steel oil filter, changed spark plug, and cleaned air filter the engine remained stock. I commuted with the bike to work daily which is 3 miles there and 3 back on 40 mph roads. During lunch i ride for one hour about 15-20 miles on some wood trails. Blah blah blah. Fast forward some more and the bike has 90 accumalated hours total. I have not check the vavle clearance since getting the bike. Most of the riding was around 45-55 mph average for top speed to 35 everywhere else. My oil changes have been every 10 hours give or take how hard and how many miles I've driven. Changed with full synthetic maxima pro plus 10w40 oil. Air filter was cleaned once in between, from the time I got the bike till 90 hours........ lay it on me but wait till you finish this read. Okay so up to this time I'll reiterate that the engine is still stock. No top end rebuilts, no vavle shims, NOTHING! All OEM. At 90 hours I changed the gearing from the stock 13/49 to 15/49 since then I've added 15 hours on it with the same riding habits as before with my longest highway/freeway trip being 30 minutes at 18 miles mostly highway miles driven at or around 65Mph. Yeah she was screaming at that too, with a 5 speed gear box. It was sketchy even with that changed gearing. Blah blah again. Now I'm at 110 hours and 1500 miles on a still stock motor besides transmission gearing. My vavle spacing hasn't changed. And I decided to tear down the top end to see what I'm working with. Cylinder, piston, rings, conrod, vavles, spark plug, head, etc look okay with normal wear and tear. So in conclusion. I will order a forged piston to deal better with the higher rpms that I run at. BUT THAT AS FAR AS ENGINE MODS WILL BE IT. I haven't notice any power losses and love that gearing. It still works well down low. Now take it or leave it but this is an honest tracker from my level of riding and mechanicle knowledge. I'm not getting paid for this or influenced by a company or brand. I'm just posting this because there is, in my opinion no real knowledge posted about this topic but a lot of people are curious. Thanks.- 26 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- Streetlegal
- Roadlegal
- (and 26 more)
-
Hey TT! You all know me as that one annoying 15 year old kid that rides dirt bikes on the street for YouTube content. Well I bought a 2002 YZ 125 that had no compression, and I got it for cheap. So, today I fixed the float and went for a ride, but felt like enough was enough. I called my dad to come and help me take off the top end, and so we did. Be aware that I am a 15 year old kid, that has no experience with top ends, and am basing everything off one 17 minute YouTube video that was watched two weeks ago. Anyways, here's how it looks. Now here's my question... What size will I need to purchase? It is a 53.96 currently. Also, will I have to bore it out or is it good? Posted pics of the cyinder too. OR, I can do the 144cc kit. Eric Gorr is charging $450-$500 which is too much, any cheaper alternatives? Gary, where are you?? Two Stroke YZ Doc I need your help man! Thanks!
-
So currently I have a 1990 KDX200 and I like it but I decided I would like to start enduro racing. So I started looking at part availability and some important thing were either expensive or discontinued. I started looking at other bike and came up with the YZ125, parts are decently cheap, can port, 52 tooth rear sprocket, flywheel weights, bark busters, headlight and taillight for less than 3500 and be able to find parts. What should I do? -
Kx 85 runs well but smokes. More than I think it should for a two stroke. No smoke at idle. If I lean out the air mixture it bogs low end. Just when I gas it high rpms. New top end, jetted to spec with pro circut exhaust. Should I raise the needle clip? Also it's only a half turn out on the air mixture but that's where it runs best.
-
On my 2008 rmz 450, at 1/4 throttle there's this horrible studder. It started about a month ago. The bike has about 70 hours on it i bought it later last year and never had a problem with it. The only thing that i changed on it was the header pipe it had the stock one and i tweaked it where it was making a weird noise so i replaced it with a stock one. Things i have tried............................ New spark plug Cleaned the air filter Oil change Checked the valves one exhaust is on the loose side but not out of spec. I may try injector cleaner but idk if thats ok for these bikes. Any help is appreciated thanks in advance
-
Hello everyone, I own a 2002 Yamaha Wr250f. I bought the bike used with 160 hours on it and used it for almost 50 hours, mostly hard enduro. Everything was working fine with it, until recently, when I decided to check the valve clearance because I had the time and because most forums (and the repair manual) say that they need to be checked regularly. Also, I was curious if the performance of the bike would get better after adjusting the valves. Ive found that most valve clearances were smaller than what the manual says (measured 0.05 for the intake and 0.1 for exhaust compared with the specified 0.1-0.15 for intake and 0.17-0.22 exhaust). Bought new shims, installed them, made sure the clearances are within spec and started up the bike. No problems, easy start, good idle. After, I took it for a test drive. First hour of riding (trail, high rpm, hill climbs) I really noticed how the bike's performance was much better than before. Then suddenly, I started noticing power loss. Something like if someone was pushing the kill button while i was pulling on the gas. Like if a limiter was put in it and couldn't go above a certain rpm. Have no idea why. 1. I cleaned the air filter before the test ride. Did i put too much oil(spray) on it? I used Motul air filter spray before, which had a blueish color, so it was easy to see how much is too much, but now Im using Liquimoly, which is transparent. But then why did I notice only after 1 hour of riding? 2. Did I do something wrong when adjusting the valves?or when putting the top end back together? But then why did I feel the performance boost in the first 1 hour? 3. Could be something else, not related to the valve adjustment? I'm mechanically inclined, so I do what I can on my own using youtube, this website and the repair manual. However, I'm not a mechanic, so I have no idea what to do now. You guys have any suggestions/ideas? Please ask any questions that you need to know, so that you can try to help me. Thank you! Your help is very much appreciated
-
I recently bought a 2005 yz250 on the first ride about 5 minutes into the ride my bike would not shift anymore nothing I did would make it shift engine still ran fine it is just stuck in 5th any help or suggestions would greatly appreciated
-
I ordered a set of going racing radiator hose from eBay. I don't know the size of hose clamps to get. Can someone with experience tell me. Are they same as stock or what. Thanks
-
Just wondering what other bike brand rims will fit my 2010 yz250f -
I have a 2006 Yz125 that had stock jetting with 93 pump gas mixed 32:1 and would run perfectly when it was 50-70 degrees outside, at 1000 feet. Little to no spooge at all and power from bottom to top. Now it's 90 degrees in Missouri with humidity as well, and there was more spooge and bike was running richer (obviously). So I decided to lower the pilot from 40 to 35 and start running 25/75 c12/93 pump to help with any detonation. Then the bike would bog down low and through the mid, it would slowly climb but when it hit the top, then it would rip. I had brand new packing in the silencer, and after just 30 minutes of riding, spooge was already running out of the silencer. So I took the clip and moved it up one, to the second position. Felt like it fixed the bog a little, but still a bog down low. Also, after I get done riding and go to pick the bike up to put it on the stand, when I tilt it, some gas runs out of the carb. The carb has all new gaskets and everything, plus I'm positive the carb had never been opened before when I took it apart the first time after buying the bike. I'd think float is off but could it be off if it's set to stock? Oil also leaks out of the power valve. The bike has to be running rich, and I tried going leaner, but then I hit a bog and more spooge so I'm really confused. Top end has 12 hours and will be getting a new ring on the piston in three hours. Checked the reeds about 2 riding hours ago and they were fine. Here's a list of all the info. Any help is very much appreciated. Temp - 90 degrees Humidity - around 40% 1000 ft above sea level Gas - 25/75 c12/93 pump mixed with maxima k2 at 32:1 Pilot - 35 (stock is 40) Needle - stock. Clip is on second from top (stock is third from top) Main jet - 410. (stock) Pipe - stock pipe with pro circuit silencer Vforce 3 reeds Type of riding - mx, novice rider All Im really looking for is if some other Yz125 guys have a good baseline for summer jetting, or if anyone can steer me in the right direction.
-
So, I took my 03 yz250f out riding for the third time since I've bought it. I never had any overheating issues till today. After riding it around for a bit I stopped and I let it idle (which btw has a hanging idle) for around 1 minute. Out of nowhere it started spitting coolant out of the radiator and the bike was super hot. I dont know if it being 100 degrees outside and idling might have affected it or my jets are dirty which is causing it to idle high and run hot. Ive also noticed that the gas is boiling inside the 5 gallon desert tank that sits directly on top of the carb and pipe, and it remains boiling all the time I am riding. The bike does not overheat or spill coolant when I ride it. If It starts spitting coolant at idle and I ride around for a bit right away, it stops leaking. I opened the radiator cap and revved the bike, the coolant was spitting out and bubbling, however, with the cap on the overflow line does not spit any coolant or even air for that matter. If it overheats at idle, the coolant comes out of the radiator itself and not the hose. Could it just be these bikes do not like idling for more than a minute or is my head gasket blown? Why does the gas boil all the time? Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thank you very much!
-
Rebuilding the top end on my 1999 YZ125, what is the best method of honing to bring back the cross hatches? What color Scotch-Brite? Green or red? Also anything that would help out a first top end rebuild, I see all these threads about people rebuilding the top end & it blows in a few hours. I do not want that to be my case, it seems so simple why are people running into complications? Thanks!
-
So, I just bought a 03’ YZ250F. It will crank up and idle rough, and when I give it throttle it’ll rev and stutter and then shut off. If I put it in gear and drive it just stalls. I noticed the Hot-Start cable isn’t installed, but there’s a hot-start plunger already stuck (kinda seized) in the port (without cable attached to it) ? Could that be the reason that it’s running so rough. I took the TPS sensor off and it idles exactly the same. It seems to be running very lean. Thankyou all in advance
-
Hi all, I have a 2002 yz125 that blew the top end and took the cylinder out. An Athena standard bore replacement cylinder is much cheaper than an oem one. Is it possible to use an anthena standard bore cylinder with a stock head and piston? Or does the whole top end have to be an Athena kit? Any help would be greatly appreciated
-
What sproket combo you recommend for my 2018yz450f for street race?
-
Does anyone know how to tell if a 2 stroke needs just a top end or bottom without tearing it apart? I am looking to flip a yz250 and could make a couple hundred if it’s only top but almost nothing if it is both. I know you can tell with rod play, but Is there any way without stripping down the motor? Thanks
