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Found 194 results

  1. I recently moved my 2006 DRZ400E from Richmond, Virginia to Denver, Colorado. I have no idea what the current jetting is but I know that it was jetted richer from stock in Virginia and is to the point it is fouling plugs in Denver. It has the original Keihin FCR 39 carb, common air box mod, K&N air filter, power bomb header and an FMF pipe (in other words, it breaths heavy). Any ideas where I should start with re-jetting? Any way to change the jets in this thing without taking the carb off? It's my first time working with anything other than the needle in this carb and I would appreciate any tips and tricks.
  2. MyFriendsCallMeRonnie

    xr250 wont start

    So my bike wont start. What happened was I got stuck in some "mud" (it was more like quicksand) and when I was trying to get out I was spinning the tire quite a bit and the engine seemed to be getting nice and toasty; I had been rock climbing trials sections all day so the bike was already pretty heat soaked. After a second or two of spinning my tire I let off the gas and the bike stopped idling and died. I let it sit for 20 minutes or so while I tried to pull it out and the oil cooler seemed to cool down quite a bit. So I kicked it and it started but wouldn't idle. Did it again and same problem. It was at this point I noticed the compression seemed pretty weak and that there was a lot of gas pouring out of my air box. The gas stopped when I turned the petcock off and started when I turned it on. I have read a lot online but haven't found anything that pertains to my bike specifically. I am taking the carb apart this weekend to see what the gas situation is but I am unsure what to do about the engine? Should I check valves or did I just break something? It is a 1986 with a 280 kit and maybe a cam don't know but it was done by xr's only by the previous owner.
  3. Greetings all, I'm in the process of getting a new to me 1984 Honda xr350r to run right. I've done a bunch of reading about these dual carb'd beasts and hopefully someone with experience can shed some light: I live at about 5400ft elevation (Boulder, CO) and most of my riding will be done between 5000-10000ft elevation. Likely more like 5300-9000. As is well known, these bikes were jetted quite lean from the factory with a #28 pilot jet and a #110 primary jet and a #105 secondary jet (in the second carb). My bike has been rejetted as per the factory specified recommendations from the service manual to accomidate this new altitude and now it's got #28 pilot, #105 primary and #100 secondary jets. I started it up and it ran pretty well with this jetting, however the general wisdom on this model is that it will run extremely hot at the factory recommended jetting. Now the conventional wisdom seems to be that most owners rejet this bike to a #48 pilot, a #130 primary, and a #110 secondary. I bought these new jets and put them into the bike, however when I started it up it was very hard to start (10th/20th kick start on new jetting vs 2nd-3rd kick start on the leaner jetting). The bike also now runs quite poorly with hesitation and sputtering and an overall sense of being too rich. This was all done at 5300ft. My question is, does anyone here have experience jetting these dual carb xr350's for the colorado rockies? If so, and you got it to run well, what were the jets you ended up using? I'm sure there is a sweet spot between performance and heat management and I'm hoping to be able to find it. Thanks for any help!
  4. Leadvillethump

    Carb Drain nut threads

    My carb drain nut threads look bad and wont screw back in carb bowl more than one turn Any ideas?
  5. QuinnEXC

    Running rich?

    Hello, I ride a 2002 ktm200exc and am having a couple of specific tuning problems. Before I get into that, I run 40:1 in the gas, my elevation is 5800', my main jet is a 170 and I believe my pilot is a 45. I'm running the blue needle from a JD Jetting kit, and I believe the clip is in the highest position but i'm not sure. My float is to spec. The first problem iv'e encountered is that the bike will not reach peak rpms until 4th gear. The second is that the spark plug is too dark and too much oil comes out of the exhaust. I'm not sure what to adjust since I already dropped the main from a 180 to a 170. Thanks, Quinn.
  6. SuperMotoFreek

    FCR 39 mm for the Canadiens

    Hey there! I'm looking for a FCR39 to put in my 2016 DRZ400sm. I find it hard to find info on this topic. I want to max out the power on my bike and keep it reliable. I work for a Arctic Cat dealer and i have 3 clients how are looking to do the same on there bikes. can you guys help guide me? thanks
  7. elementg12

    TTR90 limiter problem

    So I bought a ttr90 and it seemed to have some sort of limiter at full throttle so me and my friends took apart the carb and has it jet cleaned and bought a rebuild kit, came with the jets and everything. After replacing everything it seemed to run the same. So we did valve clearance and timing and put those in spec but still having a issue with the limiter also it doesn't idle now. If you take off the intake you can see that gas is shooting out the carb into the intake tube and we can't figure it out. Any ideas you guys can think of that we haven't tried?
  8. QuinnEXC

    Adjusting Float

    I was in the process of leaning my jetting when someone told me that if the floats not adjusted to spec it could give the impression that the bikes running too rich. Can someone expand on this? What are some ways too adjust your float? What are the specs for a float in a 2002 ktm200exc?
  9. Lucas Hansen

    08 crf450r Carb leaking

    Hello all, I’m new to this website figured I’d give it a try. I’ve had this issue before, and want to know if anyone else has experienced it. I have an 08 crf450r that runs great, the carb was recently gone through (R&R, rejet...) by a professional shop. However I found that after storing it for a couple months either when I turn the gas on or start the bike gas starts leaking from the CARB, not the overflow tube, but the CARB Itself. The first time it happened I took it back to the shop and they said all they did was just open it back up, inspect and retighten everything and it ran fine with no leaks. BTW I always drain the gas from the bowl before storing it if that means anything. Anyway this time the bike sat for about 4 months, totally fine when I put it away, and as soon as I turned the gas on it was straight dripping off the float bowl nut. Took a few more kicks than normal to start, but ran fine once it got going. I’m suspecting it could be the combo of a stuck float needle and a bad bowl gasket? But wouldn’t the bike run like crap if the float was stuck? It runs/idles/revs fine. Any opinions? Any similar experiences of putting a bike away totally fine and then pulling it out months later to find a leaky carb? I will be fixing it this spring reguardless, figured I’d just toy around with some other opinions while I wait for winter to be over. P.S. if anyone is really that interested I can email you a video of the leak. Thanks!
  10. working on a 2004 yz125, doing the jetting and i had to drop it down from a 420 main to a 400 bike wouldn't even run under load with the 420. so the 400 got it good but i got a bog still at 1/3 throttle so i raised the needle clip from slot 3 (center) to slot 2 and it helped a good bit, i think dropping it 1 more slot would work perfect but is that an acceptable procedure to max out the needle? is it like the pilot jet where if its not between 2-3 turns you have to change the size of the pilot? in my case dropping the main jet size 1 more size or am i okay to max out the needle?
  11. I have recently bought a YZ 250 2001 (1700 $)and the plastics looked cracked and dry rotted for lack of a better term. Under the graphics they were mint condition literally brand new looking. Is there any way that I could restore them so that I won't need to special order tank shrouds. I already ordered a rear fender for 17.99 it looked beyond repair to me. I tried the razor blade trick but that just took way to long. Thanks Guys this is my first post so roast easy. least its a two stroke right? Runs great and tons of power.
  12. hi yall. so i bought my first yam a couple weeks ago. i'm not new to bikes, or carbs, or kickstarts... but am having a few issues with getting this thing up and running. it's a 2001 yz250f, it sat for about 4 years before i got it. PO says he used to run it a ton, loved it, but then it stopped kicking on him and he just garaged it. so, being that it's not my first resto project, i started with the basics. drained and filled oil - replaced filter, noticed some metal, but have heard that can be somewhat normal. drained and filled coolant. drained old gas. replaced air filter - pre oiled. removed carb and meticulously cleaned it, as it was gummed up something terrible - went through with carb cleaner and forced air through all jets and passageways, then let it soak overnight - and set everything to stock. the PO says everything on the bike was stock. replaced the cr9e plug with the oem cr8e ngk plug. bled the brakes. lubed the chain. air in the tires. day one = tired, done. so once i got it all back together, i filled it up with 91 gas from the station. petcock on, float bowl filled, even tested the AP to make sure it was squirting properly with the slide up (not hitting it on the up stroke or down, but in the middle - its maybe a .5sec duration, but good flow i think). tested the spark plug on the head and cranked the kickstart, got a good strong spark, so i assume cdi/coil is good. at this point i've left the airbox and filter off so i can make sure carb is doing its job. i've set the pilot air screw at 2 turns out. i've got the idle screw about 1 1/2 turns out, just enough to raise the slide maybe 1/16 inch. so, using the cold start lever out, hot start in, two quick WOTs for the AP, pushing the kickstarter til it hits the comp stroke, then pull in the decomp lever, push the ks down about an inch, then give it strong kick - repeat about 30 times - no firing, but i can hear the compression taking place. so i hold in the decomp lever, kick a few times, got a backfire in the pipe and even a lil sputter like it wants to start... so i start the process again, kick about 20 times and finally get the bike to turn over and start! i let it run for about 4 minutes, sounds a lil high on the revs, but figure that is bcuz its still on choke. so, i push the cold start in, and the bike immediately bogs and dies. so i try to kick it over again... about 30 more kicks and it still wont start... hold in decomp, kick a bunch more, another backfire and sputter, and start over... kick it a bunch more and it finally starts up again... let it run about 10 minutes this time, still a lil high idle, but purring beautifully. i can use the throttle to rev it up, sounds great. i can even pull out the hot start and get it to rev up too, push it in and it revs down and holds steady. so, i think maybe its warmed up and ready to idle naturally... push the cold start in, and the bike immediately dies again... day two = tired, done. i pull it all apart, clean the carb top to bottom, blew out the jets and passageways, meticulously inspect and tune to oem as best i can. put it back together and go through starting process again. same results... its hard as hell to get started. pulled the plug, seems fine, just a touch of oil on the seat, not much of a gas smell, still get great spark on testing on head. after another 2 hours of kicking and tinkering with the pilot screw and idle, i can get the bike to kick over for a few minutes at a time with choke on... but soon as i push in cold start, bike dies. i can literally push it in, then pull it back out really quick and the revs stumble, but pick back up and run. i can push the cs in, and throttle it up really high for a short time, but if i try to let it idle, nope, it dies. day three = tired, done... oh, i repeated this damn day for about three more days with similar results. i'm just having a hell of a time getting it to start at all, and it refuses to run without the cs pulled out. i'll list all my jets info below, and see if anyone has any tips. i have not cracked the case or head yet, and really dont have the tools to do so. i have read that the valves can be out of spec, but i dont have calipers to even check them, let alone shim them properly i'm really hoping i can just tweak the carb or something else to get it starting at least easier and running. Main Jet - 178 Pilot Jet - 40 Starter Jet - 72 Main Air Jet - 200 Pilot Air Jet - 100 Valve Jet - 38 Leak Jet - 105 Needle - OBELP (clip 3rd from top) Pilot screw - 2 turns out Idle screw - 1 1/2 turns out AP screw - .5 sec duration stock everything else on bike i'm in texas, 400-500ft elevation, its 85-95*F lately Thanks for any help yall can provide. Let me know if any other info is needed. Here's a few pics of the process so far... it was ugly after 4 years of sitting. i've got a short video of it running, but havent figured how to upload it yet.
  13. Dans2444

    Xr600 float leak

    I have a 1988 xr600 that I bought with a leaking float,(bike had sat for 2 years) have totally cleaned and rebuilt the carb,replaced needle and float,checked the tube inside of the float bowl for leaks and it still leaks from the overflow. I took the bowl back off and inspected meddle and seat double checked float height (14.5 mm) and it still leaks so for grins I adjusted the float height to 18mm. Same leak......whenever I take it apart and reinstall it won’t leak at first, but after I run the engine and shut it off after about 2-3 mins it leaks and continues to leak running or not. Any ideas besides throwing a lit match into the puddle of gas? Thank you Dan
  14. So I just did a rebuild on my 98 Yz80, and it wont start. At first, we put the gaskets on wrong, so coolant was leaking everywhere. After we fixed that, and put everything back into place again, piston went up and down smoothly, and it has great compression. The problem is, it does not want to start. Im not really sure what to do, because before, my compression was very low, so I did a rebuild, but now it still does not start. So I need help.
  15. yz_josh

    2000 kx 60 float issue

    Hi tt, i noticed an overflow of gas coming out of the carb so i checked it out. I assumed it was the float height do i tried to find the spec in the manual, but it is not there. Can anyone tell me that the spec is? or what they run theres at. Also please let me know if it could be caused by something else. thanks
  16. Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Luke
  17. Hey guys! I recently cleaned and rejetted my carb. I live at about 8k feet. Here are my specs; 2009 kx250f Main: 160 Pilot: 42 Needle: Stock (I think it is set to the 4th clip) Now, upon putting it back together I started her up with the choke on and had no issue. I turned off the choke and it abruptly died on me. After a few adjustments I figured it was a dirty pilot jet. I took it out and sure enough it looked gunked up inside. I cleaned it but I had a brand new 42 and decided to use that and save the old one as an extra. After I got it put back together I was able to get it to idle without the choke on but I had to loosen my air/fuel screw quite a lot. Its at about 3.5 turns out. Still in the learning stages on all this so I am not too sure what I should do. I am guessing that a different sized pilot would do the trick but I am not sure if I should go up or down in size. I was thinking about putting a 45 in it. Most of the forum posts I have read everyone is running a 42 or 45 with best success. What do you think?
  18. dannyrg85

    Should I replace factory jets?

    Hey guys, out of curiosity what are your opinions on stock jets vs aftermarket (jd jetting). I was also considering a 3*3 mod on the airbox. Are both of these things worth the time/money for the performance?
  19. Hello all, I appreciate the help this forum has given me over the past couple of years. I recently picked up an '01 DRZ400s and decided to do the FCR carb swap. I feel pretty confident that I managed to read almost all of the valuable threads regarding the CV to FCR swaps on this forum and others. Being a fairly competent mechanic, I opted to pick up a local FCR MX off of a YFZ450 from Craigslist. I've rebuilt quite a few carbs and I feel like I now have a greater appreciation for why the experienced group recommends people go for the new FCR swap kit or something that's off of a validated running bike. There are so many moving parts inside of the FCRs that are prone to wear, the margin for issues can grow pretty large. It was my first time inside of one, so I know for the future. Regardless, I have a used MX that was worked on with heavy hands and I'll do my best to make it run for me. Moving parts are in pretty fair condition as far as I can tell, but I'm having some issues with the rollers on the slide. There are 3 rollers which are fixed with bearings and 1 that's removable. 2 fixed ones with bearings have a little drag and you can feel that the bearings have some wear. It's not terrible, but I'd like it sorted while it's opened up. Prior to replacing a slide, my questions are: Could these bearings be gently removed and replaced with the rollers that don't have bearings? https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_027_su.html Are there replacements for just the sealed bearings? I assume you'd have to take measurements and just find aftermarket ones, which is likely not worth it at all. Has anyone found any good tricks for cleaning these bearings? I believe they're sealed, which is generally a tough one to fix. I've heard of people soaking sealed bearings in solvent for 24 hours and then heating the bearing before spinning the solvent out. Thanks for your help,
  20. Josh Johnson

    RM 250 JETTING HELP PLEASE!

    So I just got done rebuilding my 2000 rm 250 bottom and top end. Its bored over 2.10mm to be a 265 (I believe). It has a Pro circuit header, FMF shorty silencer, and vforce 1 reeds. Its just barely broken in maybe an hour or two on it so far. It keeps fouling plugs and sounds a little rich. Its running a 160 Main (2 up from stock) and 48 Pilot (1 up from stock) with the needle clip on the stock setting. Should I change my needle clip position? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated!
  21. PitRipper

    Mikuni carburetor tuning guide

    I think this could be a useful sticky. http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf This is a free tuning and carburetor knowledge manual that is very informative and easy to read. Most of all carb problems are addressed in this PDF file. Since a large portion of our forum topics are carburetor problem related, I think this could be very useful and lead more people to be able to help others, effectively making more question answerers as opposed to question askers, which is good for everyone. Just an idea...
  22. Well the iggornant 17 year old that I am decided to rip the carb off without checking the service manual first for proper removal of the TPS connections. instead of discounting the connector at the wire harness I unscrewed the torx head screw to remove the whole thing. When I put it back together I noticed I wasn't getting the normal amount of power. Kinda suspected I didn't get somthing right in the carb. So I took it back off again the same way I took it off and double-triple checked my work and still had the same issue. So after further research in the manual I noticed that it said removal of the TPS was a no no cause it would result in loss of power. Is there a proper way to reinstall the tps sensor? I've searched numerous times on the topic of install but could never find a direct awnser. Any help you could give me would be appreciated thank you! I can awnser any questions you may have
  23. Hey guys, Newbie in town here. I recently got a 2003 xr400 and love it! have only ridden it up and down the street so far because of one problem. the second I turn the gas switch on the carb over flow tubes spew gas. it will run great with no gas dripping but the second I stop and idle (and turn off the bike) the tubes just spew gas out. carb has recently been cleaned. any suggestions/ tips would be great. ive done a ton of research but just havent busted this problem yet. Thanks! Ryan
  24. so i purchased a 1983 sp250 suzuki, and it would die at idle randomly and die when taking off. I pulled the carb to clean it and i notice a post for the floats was broken... so i need a new carb. the stock carb is impossible to find. ive been told that a mikuni vm28 will work, but it looks like some modification is needed. ive found some carbs for the suzuki gn250 that look the same. so the question at hand is, are the gn250 and sp250 engines the same?
  25. I have posted a few threads about the problem I am having getting my bike (2007 WR450) running right, and now that I have implemented more modifications and readjusted the settings I thought it would be best to summarise my problem in one thread with all information and work I have done as I still can't solve the problem I am having and I don't know what else to try at this stage. The Kran and others been very helpful on the threads and Guy Graham has provided extensive help in messages. All of which I am grateful for. I just thought though that I would put this out there one more time to see if there is anything I have missed or could try. The problem is when twisting the throttle off idle the bike sometimes instantly stalls with a small backfire that kicks back on the starter motor. It often but not always happens when I am blipping the throttle with the clutch in or when I am slipping the clutch. It is almost as if when you rev the throttle just as the revs drop and hit idle you rev it again, that is when the bike stalls and backfires before any suggestion of a bog. It is almost like the sudden drop in revs followed by the sudden rise in revs again is too much or adds too much fuel or too much air to the equation before the idle can balance itself. The problem becomes clearest when I want stop or do a tight turn or slip the clutch to try and move slowly. I pull in the clutch, but because the clutch drags slightly it puts a small amount of strain/drag on the engine which then stalls the bike unless I blip the throttle or give off idle revs. But blipping and off idle revs causes it to stall in this mysterious way. It makes it dangerous as it can stall at exactly the wrong moment, like at a road junction or difficult slow crossing/obstacle. The problem has been there since I bought the bike, after cleaning the carb and after the modifications I have done. The latest carb modifications have helped slightly but the problem is still there. This is the spec and work I have done to the bike. I should point out that the only thing I have just done but not run the bike since, is clearing the pilot and fuel screw passages with wire to confirm not restricted (the passage was not visibly blocked and this was done to make sure there was no blockage narrowing the passages). Airbox lid removed, baffle out of exhaust, shorter throttle stop, grey wire Carb thoroughly cleaned with both carb and brake cleaner and all passages and jets blown out New jets, 168 main, 45 pilot, 50 leak, 110 air, 70 air, 65 starter, JD red needle Adjustable fuel screw fitted GYTR AIS removal kit installed 2008+ AP diaphragm, rod, and cover (with original float bowl check valve removed) Stiffer AP spring fitted and timing on AP set with strong, early, good squirt visible Float height checked and within spec Throttle valve plate seal is present and appears fine The fuel screw seems to run best at half a turn out but is slightly vague and the change is very subtle. When warmed up, I tried opening the choke and the revs increased almost as if someone twisted the throttle. It didn't make the bike stall. If I pull the hot start instead of the choke, the bike does not stall but does run a little rougher. It can also be tricky to start, often wanting a slight bit of throttle twist. The previous owner had 170 main and 50 pilot jet and had not fully uncorked the bike. I don't know if he knew something I don't. However, I am completely out of ideas of what to try now and I am getting tired of taking the bike apart and trying to sort this. I have no confidence in the bike with it as it is because it can stall at the most dangerous wrong moments. I made a couple of short videos which show the problem after all new carb parts. The first is with the idle screw set where I initially thought it should be. The second video is with the idle raised slightly by about a sixth of a turn. In the first video the stall is very much what I'm talking about, although I'm blipping the throttle the point at which it stalls does not seem that harsh when actually doing it. The second video, the bike only stalled because I purposely whacked the throttle open at the end to try and get it to bog going to wide open, the bike bogs though before it stalls like you would expect. I also made a video of the AP squirt.
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