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Found 90 results

  1. Okay so to start off i know for a fact that it is a carby issue. Basically i have a 1995 Kawasaki Kx100 2 stroke, and its never ever had a single issue for the time that i've owned it which is over a year. Recently with the weather becoming colder approaching winter in Australia, the bikes been really really un-happy. First i noticed that is wouldnt start like it used to so i was like no issues, probably just the colder weather, then while riding it i realized it would bog out at full throttle, like a blubwubwubwub kinda bog. After a bit of tinkering i cleaned out the carb and stuff and tried to tune it, i came accross a different issue, now basically when im riding and i get to like 4th gear, all the sudden the bike will rev out really high and ill loose all power. Then i upshift into 5th and it will be good for a second then rev out and i loose power again. Ive checked everywhere for air leaks and all that and i cant find any. is my air adjustment screw letting in too much air? and in the case of the bog at full throttle should i maybe go down a size on the main jet. Lastly theres another issue lol. when i start it it will idle for a second and then rev its guts out. Please help me, next step is to get a brand new carb i think.
  2. I just bought a 2002 Honda XR200 that was hardly ridden at all and has lived most of its life in a storage locker. I already cleaned the carburetor and replaced some of the jets. I also replaced the air filter. I have checked to make sure the pep cock is clean, and even replaced the gasket that goes between the exhaust pipe and the engine. It starts up on the first kick, but when I turn the throttle more than 1/4 the way, it dies. Any ideas that you have would be appreciated. Thank you.
  3. Hey guys, I just bought an XR650L (my 2nd) that had been used in enduro events for nearly 10 years. From there, it sat in a garage for about 5 years. I took it under my wing, and am trying to bring it back to life. It employs a high-compression piston, aftermarket cam, and 38mm Mikuni flat-slide carb. I cleaned the carb and entire fuel system, changed the oil, and replaced the spark plug, air filter and battery. Surprisingly, it started after only a few tries! Not surprisingly, it won't start or idle without choke. It idles high, and sputters until it dies when I wean off the choke or twist the throttle. It will rev smoothly with choke on. I'm new to the forum, thanks a TON for any input whatsoever!
  4. About a year and a half ago, we bought a used 2004 Arctic Cat 400 4x4 Automatic to take as a pit vehicle to races. Didn't want to spend too much on this and also wanted something to tinker with. The previous owner said he couldn't get it started and suspected it needed a new battery. The old air filter had also disintegrated and parts had been sucked into the carburetor. I cleaned the carburetor and replaced the battery and air filter and it started up and ran decently. Now that it was running we found that the carburetor leaked like crazy down onto the starter motor. It seemed to be leaking from the accelerator pump cover. I ordered a carburetor rebuild kit and accelerator pump rebuild kid. Replaced the pilot jet, main jet, leak jet, float bowl gasket, and even went ahead and replaced the bladder in the throttle slide, just in case. I also got new gas lines, petcock, and cleaned out the gas tank. After all of that, it still leaked from the accelerator pump cover, even with the engine off and the petcock in the on position. I then took the carb apart again, sprayed all the jets and passages with carb cleaner and compressed air (without any rubber gaskets or bladders in, of course) and adjusted the float. I also replaced the plastic choke assembly that screws into the carburetor. The threads were slightly stripped and it didn't seem to be seating in the carb very well. Put it back together and it stopped leaking, but now it runs like crap. It has okay throttle response with just a little bit of gas, but about mid to wide open throttle it will die. If I gradually apply the throttle all the way open, it will rev out, but quick throttle blips and it dies. Once it is warmed up, I can take it around the yard, but after about 90 seconds, it backfires on deceleration and dies. Let it sit for a few seconds, start it up and it will run fine for another 90 seconds, then backfire on deceleration and die. I have replaced the starter motor (electric start stopped working and only responded to pull-start). Electric start works fine now. Today I replaced the ignition coil and spark plug. I had read on arcticchat.com that someone else had similar issues and replacing the coil solved their problem. It has not solved mine, though after replacing the coil, it ran well for about 2.5 minutes before backfiring on deceleration and dying. I have no clue where to go from here. It is a Keihin CVK. I have always had good luck getting help on thumpertalk in the dirt bike sections, so I thought maybe someone could help me with this!
  5. Okay, so I've done EVERYTHING. The carburetor is a Keihin PWK 28 and it PISSES gas out the float bowl overflow whenever I turn the gas on. I've tried everything in the books. The float level is correct, so I know that is not the problem. The first thing I tried: the needle. I turned the gas on with the float bowl off while holding the needle in place with my finger. No leaks whatsoever. The second thing I tried: The brass overflow tubes in the float bowl. I took the float bowl off the carb, and filled it with gas. Not a drop came out of the overflow so I knew that these tubes were not cracked. One thing I did notice..... The bike leaked the least when the floats were at a really low level, however, this caused the bike to run piss-poor, as expected. What is with that? I also cleaned out the gas tank and needle seat and neither of these made any difference, the bike was still pissing gas. Now my garage smells like gas, I am angry, and my dad is pissed because the whole house smells like gas. Literally any suggestions will be appreciated. I've cleaned the whole fuel system, set the floats correctly, checked for any cracks in the overflow tubes, checked the needle rigorously, but to no avail. If you have ANY idea what it could be, please let me know! I know many other people have had issues with these Keihin PWK's, but I read all of those forums and tried everything it said, but nothing worked. I am totally lost and upset because I wanted this to be an awesome bike. Thanks for reading.
  6. Ok, so I just got a 1971 Honda CL100 ...only it's more like It starts, but not very easily. Once started, it runs very rough. I pulled the carb, removed jets, soaked it in carb cleaner, blew it with compressed air, the works. All passages are clean and clear. I was hoping that would solve my problem but no such luck. I've messed with the fuel/air screws but nothing seems to help much. It idles for a few minutes but will eventually bog down and die. When giving it throttle it will rev a bit but too much and it will bog down and die. It is gutless when riding on it. I've spent a good bit of time researching. It sounds like a vacuum leak could be the culprit. I sprayed starter fluid on both ends of the carb and it seems to be sealed (from what I can tell). The battery is dead as the lights will only turn on while it's running and will only stay on for less than a minute once it dies. Could that be causing any problems? I wouldn't think so, but someone on a form I read mentioned these bikes don't run well on a dead battery. I don't know enough about the jets or sizes to know if I should swap one out for a different size. The PO put a fuel filter in the fuel line from the tank to the carb. It seems to have good flow but maybe not enough? The spark plug has a chalky residue on it. I read this means it's running lean but like I said, the air/fuel screws don't change much when I mess with them. I'm hoping someone has the magic answer. Thanks for the help! Here's a video so you can see/hear how it's running:
  7. HI you guys, new to this website. but i truly hope someone can help me. i just recently (yesterday) bought a used 2000 yamaha wr400f. i was told all it needed was to be put back together (plastic was off for "painting") and that it needed a float.....well. that was not completely truthfull... because when i got it home and really checked out the carb that was in the bag...its missing ALOT of pieces....both the pull levers for chock and other. the bottom bowl looks almost...RUSTED..its Allllll pitted up. and the little cover that goes on the bottom of the bowl is screwed. so clogged.looks like they let it sit in battery acid for a year.. missing the top plate. no float. nothing that goes with the float. and im not sure what the inside looks like..probably terrible.. what i am wanting to know is can i use a wr250f carb and just use the jets from mine? i know i can use the 426f carb. but i cannot find one for less than 500$ :(. and i dont have alot of money to work with. 250 is pretty much is right now. i also just got a 97 rm250 2 stroke. and i love it. but i REALLY REALLY want to ride this 400. but for the life of me...i CANNOT find a carb online ANYWHERE....unless its a crazy amount..now i can get a yamaha 400 GRIZZLY carb for like 60 bucks!! will this thing work??? the guy i got the bike from said it would lol....but im not sure. THANKS SO MUCH FOR ANY INFO. have a great day
  8. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRF-450-X-CRF450X-Carburetor-Carb-2005-2014-NEW/392014240490?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 I am having non stop issues and i've tried every jetting combo out there. This is my last ditch effort to keep this bike as I've checked everything else. Has anyone tried one of these? Less than $200 vs nearly $600 from Honda... Thanks
  9. QuinnEXC

    Running rich?

    Hello, I ride a 2002 ktm200exc and am having a couple of specific tuning problems. Before I get into that, I run 40:1 in the gas, my elevation is 5800', my main jet is a 170 and I believe my pilot is a 45. I'm running the blue needle from a JD Jetting kit, and I believe the clip is in the highest position but i'm not sure. My float is to spec. The first problem iv'e encountered is that the bike will not reach peak rpms until 4th gear. The second is that the spark plug is too dark and too much oil comes out of the exhaust. I'm not sure what to adjust since I already dropped the main from a 180 to a 170. Thanks, Quinn.
  10. motocrossmike 759

    What does STD and STK jetting mean?

    I am wondering what does std and stk jetting mean? I am following a jetting chart from pro circuit and it says to use std jetting, and a size 7 carb slide. I'm trying to get my bike to run perfect
  11. I picked up a new to me 97 xr600 that ran fine when I got it(hard to start but it would start). I got it home and immediately started doing some maintenance things. I couldn't open the airbox when I bought it because it forgot my tools. But the guy is an engineer and seemed to have taken good care of it, so i figured all was well inside the airbox. I was wrong. The filter crumbled apart in my hands into this oily bastard of a mess. The airbox was covered in this caked on oily dirt. Needles to say I was a bit upset. But I pressed on and cleaned the airbox and put on a brand new uni filter and now the bike will not start. I kicked until my leg hurt and barely got anything. I didn't touch anything setting on the carb or mess with the fuel system at all. Is it possible that the carb was choked for air so badly and was adjusted accordingly that now it wont start because of too much air? It has the mikuni 41mm flatside carb on it. Which only has an idle screw adjustment on it. Please help
  12. QuinnEXC

    Adjusting Float

    I was in the process of leaning my jetting when someone told me that if the floats not adjusted to spec it could give the impression that the bikes running too rich. Can someone expand on this? What are some ways too adjust your float? What are the specs for a float in a 2002 ktm200exc?
  13. Almightyvicegrips

    Anyone know what causing this???

    I have a 4 stroke giox31 250 2010, and just had the engine rebuilt with a new piston kit, due to the fact that the old rings were worn out... so I stuck everything back on the bike and ran it without the air filter or tailpipe to make sure it work and it ran fine. But now I have stuck on the tailpipe and muffler it wont run and the weird part is, it especially wont run when the kickstarter is in its resting position.
  14. Hi guys, I have tried EVERYTHING to cure the bog on my 2002 yz250f. At this point, im either ready to sell the bike, or i am willing to get a new carburetor that doesn't suck horribly. I know this year was notorious for the bog issues. My question- Is there a newer or better aftermarket version of a carb that will fit the 2002 YZ250F? It would he my last ditch effort before abandoning the bike. Has anyone tried this as a solution, and what were your results? Thanks all!
  15. Hi everyone, I just bought a used 2008 CRF450R a couple of weeks ago. The bike runs great, starts on first kick every time, pulls very strong and the engine sounds like it's in great condition. One issue I noticed is that the bike 'stutters' while riding with steady 0-1/4 of throttle, i.e it's not smooth. Idle and all other throttle positions are fine, smooth while steady and very strong WOT. I assume that there are some adjustments needed on the carb, haven't touched it so far. But it would be great if someone could point me in the right direction. From the service manual I see the following recommended settings for my environment (Altitude: 700-1000m, Temperature: 18'C-28'C): PS: 1-1/2, SJ: 42, JN Clip: 2nd, JN: NJYR, MJ: 172. What would be the first thing to check? Or does someone think that it's something other than the carb? Many thanks.
  16. Hi everyone, So, I let my bike set for a year and decided that I should probably fire it up to make sure everthing works. Fresh gas and fire right up. Everything was great until I noticed a bit of gas leaking from the Keihin FCR 39mm flat slide carb. Gas was coming from the bowl gasket? The Bike idled perfect, so I am not sure if there is an internal issue. Anyone have any advice on the next steps and what I should look for? I feel like if I just replaced the gasket I would be masking the problem? Thank you in advance!
  17. Recently, I put my carb back on my bike after adjusting the float and jets and I'm having some problems. I couldn't get the bike started for the life of me and after a little while, it started pouring gas out of the vent hoses. Can someone diagnose my situation?
  18. The PJ carb is mediocre and has a mind of its own. It has some funky tendencies and only runs decent 1/2 throttle or more. #1 problem being the idle speed is hooked to the choke circuit (It will idle fine for 5 minutes, then slowly bog down), I have tried to go richer one pilot jet size, but then becomes too rich to kick-off. So, is it possible to swap from a 34mm keihin pj to a keihin 38mm PWK airstriker? I've read a bunch about 2000+ cr125's making the swap, but what are the limitations and challenges with the 99 PWK airstriker swap? Thanks, Chad
  19. Hi forum, I took the carb off my 2009 yz250f at the beginning of the summer with plans on cleaning it, I got a new job and had no time to play around with it. Over the past couple of weeks I finally got around to cleaning everything with carb cleaner and removing any surface rust with fine wire brush. I have since put the carb back on the bike and changed the spark plug... and the bike doesn't start. I turned the fuel screw two turns back from full way, and can't figure out whats going on. I just want the thing fire up already, if you think you can help please comment thanks.
  20. nick98065

    Alternative Carburetor for TTR 225

    hi all i recently purchased a 01 ttr 225 and it didn't come with a carburetor i didn't think it was going to be expensive but come to find out their around 300-400$ for a new one! i paid less then that for the bike and was wondering if their was any alternatives that will fit that are around 100$ or less and input would help thanks
  21. JeremyCondie

    F7 emulsion tube

    A mate gave me a Kawasaki (dual sport) 1970's "barn find" F7. Among many things, the carb was filthy. It's a Mikuni but feeds a disc valve so mounted on the right hand side. I cannot work out how to remove and clean the emulsion tube. Is it a press fit (i.e push hard and it'll pop out) or is it screwed in? Advice is appreciated.
  22. Hello all, I appreciate the help this forum has given me over the past couple of years. I recently picked up an '01 DRZ400s and decided to do the FCR carb swap. I feel pretty confident that I managed to read almost all of the valuable threads regarding the CV to FCR swaps on this forum and others. Being a fairly competent mechanic, I opted to pick up a local FCR MX off of a YFZ450 from Craigslist. I've rebuilt quite a few carbs and I feel like I now have a greater appreciation for why the experienced group recommends people go for the new FCR swap kit or something that's off of a validated running bike. There are so many moving parts inside of the FCRs that are prone to wear, the margin for issues can grow pretty large. It was my first time inside of one, so I know for the future. Regardless, I have a used MX that was worked on with heavy hands and I'll do my best to make it run for me. Moving parts are in pretty fair condition as far as I can tell, but I'm having some issues with the rollers on the slide. There are 3 rollers which are fixed with bearings and 1 that's removable. 2 fixed ones with bearings have a little drag and you can feel that the bearings have some wear. It's not terrible, but I'd like it sorted while it's opened up. Prior to replacing a slide, my questions are: Could these bearings be gently removed and replaced with the rollers that don't have bearings? https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_027_su.html Are there replacements for just the sealed bearings? I assume you'd have to take measurements and just find aftermarket ones, which is likely not worth it at all. Has anyone found any good tricks for cleaning these bearings? I believe they're sealed, which is generally a tough one to fix. I've heard of people soaking sealed bearings in solvent for 24 hours and then heating the bearing before spinning the solvent out. Thanks for your help,
  23. skiwithnoskis

    Carb tuning HELP!!!!

    Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
  24. Hey everyone, Needing some help after removing my 250X carburetor and now trying to reinstall the air boot to the carb. I can't seem to figure out the routing for the smog pump hose to the air boot and the crankcase breather hose to the air boot. The hoses are either getting in the way of reinstalling the air boot or they are pinching and binding. They came off the air boot when I put the subframe into "upright position" and I didn't get a good look at how they were routed. Any help would be awesome. I will likely get the smog pump removal kit, but today, I'm just hoping to get everything back together to ride before rain comes in.
  25. I have a 2004 Rm-Z250. I bought it off a guy for $700 because he didn't want to deal with it anymore. He put a new crank and piston in and still couldn't get it going. I brought it home and did a compression check and it read 60. which is low, I know. So I took it apart and looked and the cylinder and it had some pretty good scratches in it. I honed it for about 15 Seconds and threw it back together and kicked the hell out of it and nothing. I pulled the spark plug out to check the compression and the plug was saturated in oil. I was getting blow by. so I bought a new cylinder and just threw it on and that fixed the blow by. So then I tried to start it and it was giving me a really hard time and wouldn't start so I checked the plug to see if it was shot. It had a decent amount of carbon build up so I threw a new one in. It was wanted to start when I did that. I started to feather the throttle a little to try to help it and it fired up. not every time but about once every 10-20 kicks. So after going through the entire bottom end and top end, the only thing i'm left with is the carb. The bike wont idle and I gave it a little ride and its not running too hot so I believe something is wrong with the carb. I cleaned the jets too. I just took it apart and the O ring on the throttle slide is broken and I am going to throw a new on on but I feel like there is more to it than that. especially with it being so hard to start. There is also a knob on the bottom of the float bowl with numbers on it. Numbered 1-4. I attached an image so you can see what I am talking about. I've looked at the manual and at tons of carbs and have no clue what it is. If anyone could help me out it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Alex
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