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Found 175 results

  1. ffaemtp82

    clutch Clutch Replacement Nightmare

    So I have a full Hinson clutch kit on 2013 RM-z450. After a fair amount of abuse it's obvious I need new plates/springs. Without going into the lengthy explanation of my problems in replacing (TIP- along with plates and springs, always get new spring bolts, main bolt washer, and clutch cover gasket. Lesson learned grrrrrrrr....) So here I am tightening the main nut that holds the basket on, to the recommended 65lbs, and Pop!!!! Now there is no tension on the clutch lever (at the handlebar) and the lever/arm on the stator side of the case flops back and forth; and I'm nauseous..... What did I break? I haven't opened up the ignition/stator side case yet to see what's up. Looking at the Suzuki schematics it's super difficult to tell what that bolt is connected to. Thanks!
  2. SteveInSpotsy


    Does anyone have a used Rekluse for one of these bikes they would like to sell? The new ones are $600+, and that's a helluva lot for a clutch - Rekluse or not.
  3. Trying to figure out what I missed here. My starter spins freely after rebuilding the engine - new crank, bigbore. Everything is back together but when 'cranking' it over, the starter just spins free. I took off the starter cover held on by 3 phillips head bolts (fig 1 &3 ) and held on to the bushing on the starter gear train- directly located behind starter cover. This set of gears turned freely. So my starter teeth and sprocket teeth are not at fault. Next I turned the idler sprocket between this sprocket and the flywheel and this idler would turn freely clockwise but not rotate by hand counterclockwise CCW. Figure 3 - bottom center. I followed a thread on here of someone who had the same or similar symptoms. Following advice given to that poster, I removed the idler gear adjacent to flywheel and attempted to spin flywheel. This I can do in a clockwise direction but CCW provides much resistance. According to the arrow indicating the direction flywheel is suppose to turn (figure 2 bottom center) when running, I have something backwards. Anyone follow? What could I have done wrong here? Thank you
  4. Cop duster (not really)

    Klx125 Clutch Not Engaging

    Ok so I'm about to sell my Klx 125 and my clutch seems to lately have not been engaging like it should. its as if its pushing on the pressure plate but not far enough to let the clutch plates spin freely. I can put the bike in Neutral and it acts just fine but when I put it in gear and hold the clutch in, there is a lot of resistance when I try to move the bike back and forth. (the wheels aren't completely locked as if it were in gear but its very hard to move) I have had to adjust the pushrod one other time because it was doing the same thing. I've used all the adjustment in the clutch cable and it hasn't seemed to make a difference. I have also tried to rotate the pushrod lever to take more slack out of the cable. Before I open up the crankcase and take the pressure plate off and adjust it internally I'd like to know if anyone has any ideas as to how to fix it otherwise I'll just open it up and adjust the amount the pushrod sticks out. Any help would be great Thanks
  5. My XR250R needed a new timing chain (and clutchplates) and I've noticed that some people doesn't have a clue where to start, and thinks it's a job for pro's... But I can tell you that everybody can do it, so I've made some pictures during my process. See it as a reference next to your manual The patient, yes... I have painted it a bit grey just to see if I like the look of a grey XR engine in my Honda Banana XR/DRZ project (see topic elsewhere on TT) This engine has a 77mm Wiseco piston kit (so it's a 277cc) together with a new headgasket and I flowed the inlet and exhaust ports a bit. That it needed a new timing chain was something I already knew, but when I installed the overbored set I noticed that my cilinder head wasn't that good either... A XR engine is quite bulletproof but it's heads are prone to crack... Typical, these cracks always (99 of 100 times) appears next to the exhaust valves and plug hole. Also a typical XR250R failure are their head gaskets.... I still don't understand why Honda haven't made the front stud a bit beavier at the exhaust side... If you torque your cilinder down, it's almost at it's point where threads will vanish... so it happens that a lot that people over thighten this front stud > biggest cause of a leaking head gasket... I just fixed it with tapping a new M12 (! instead of 10mm) thread into the cilinder, so no more leaking head gaskets... ever... Ok ok... now back to the timing chain... If you lift of the valve cover you'll see something like this, and you know that your chain is shot if you experience the same view as below; next to the chain you see a piece of metal where the left side of it, sunk into the metal slider. Only on the right side you'll see a small piece of metal sticking out... well, if you see this, you can be sure that your chain is shot : And, in my case, that the "T mark" in the inspection hole doesn't line up anymore with the 2 lines on your cam sprocket: Just 1 line (on the right side of the sprocket) is visible The bike started really bad (it took a lot of kicks to wake up the beast) and that's isn't really strange when your ignition is a bit off... Anyway... let's start: Press with your finger on the metal tab (which is sticking out) at the cam chainslider, it releases the tension of the chainslider. Now grab with your other hand a screwdriver and pry out the left sunken piece of metal and try to get this piece as high as possible out of this 'sink hole'. You know when you're high enough when a small gap appears in which you can put a paperclip or something to secure the left slider to sink back again into the hole. I have used a pop rivet to secure it: Now the tension is of the chain so now you can start with loosing the cam chain, cam and chain sprocket. At the backside of the cam chain sprocket you'll see 2 10mm bolts. Just turn them loose, no worries, the sprocket will stay put on the cam. Use a rachet on the other side of the engine (inspection hole) to line up the 2 cam chain sprockets bolts for easier unbolting. Next, you'll need to wiggle out the cam, I found it easier to pull the 2 ball bearings first. Then the cam will slide out easily. Then you'll have something like this Don't worry if the chain falls down the hole, we are going to open up this side of the engine case anyway Loose all the engine case bolts and don't forget to loose the bolt of the oilpipe too (shown on the picture). If you're sure that all bolts are loose (the 3 bolt for the oil filter and filter itself can stay), tap with a rubber hammer on the engine case as most of the times the gasket acts as glue so splitting the case will be a bit of a challenge... whatever you do, don't use a screwdriver to pry open the case!!!! EVER!!!! When everything is off nicely, you'll see this: You notice that the cam chain is hidden after the clutch cage and behind the pickup coil. So that has to be removed otherwise the chain can't be changed... We start with removing the clutch, you have to loose the 4 10mm bolts in cross patern, really easily and step by step. I usually do max. 3 turns per bolt and move to another one. If you don't do this and you decide to completely loosen the bolts one by one then the clutch springs could be damaged. If the 4 bolts are loose, then you can take the springs out. And while they're out you can measure them for wear. Mine are good enough for another decade of abuse Next thing to do, is to remove the clutch plate cage (holder). You can do this on different ways... With the 'special Honda tool', with the "special low budget tool, which is clothing or a towel between the gear sprockets" or just a plain ol air impact wrench. I use the last one: Clutch cage out of the engine You can check these for wear too, the service limit is 2.69mm, mine are 2.78... But also measured one plate (first plate engine side) which was only 2.71mm So... nearly at the service limit... Hmmm... I decided to order some new clutch plates... It's really to near to it's service limits to ignore... Anyway, let's proceed with the chain: When the clutch removed we still need to loosen the bolt which holts the pick up sprocket, same story here as with the clutch cage, let the impact wrench do it's magic: When this bolt (24mm) is loose, then we have full access to the chain and you'll have the following pieces of the pick-up axle; Not needed to mark anything, as Mr. Honda did the marking for you.... Also it is almost impossible to put it back on the wrong way as it's a one way fit Full access to the chain now: You now can remove the chain from this side really easy I know a lot of people swear by OEM parts, but I prefer D.I.D. as my cam chain supplier... why? They're cheap... €20 for a chain is a better price than OEM costs... and yes, they are reliable as I've used these chains in a lot of bikes (also supersports) with no problems. You don't need to be an expert to see which chain is new and which chain is shot: Put the new chain in in reverse order, so follow the steps from above back to the beginning... When everything (so your cam, cam chain sprocket and cam bearings, pick up gearing) is bolted up again, use a torque wrench to secure the the pick up axle (or cam chain axle in the engine) at 65 NM (is what I use). Before you torque this bolt down (and install the cam chain sprocket) make sure that the "T'" mark in the inspection hole lines up with the mark at the case, and that the 2 lines of the cam sprocket lines up with the top of the cilinderhead. (see pictures below). If you're sure that everything lines up then you can bolt it up, torque it down and don't forget to remove the paperclip (or pop rivet) you've used to keep the chain tension off! When the job has been done correctly you'll see something like this: Also notice that you won't have that 'sink hole' anymore and the sprocket lines up with the top of the cilinder head Perfect! A bit less perfect is, is that I have to wait for my clutch plates to arrive... When they arrive I'll continue in this topic to make it a complete write up. Hopefully I have shown that doing some mild engine work isn't that difficult and that a lot of cam chain related questions has been answered with this topic. Update will follow when I have my plates in house!
  6. Eli Ward

    Clutch problems

    I have a 2007 ktm250sx and my clutch has been acting funny. When I’m in gear I can completely press the clutch in and it will still pull like the clutch is not fully engaged. Any ideas on what the problem can be?
  7. I traded my 2008 WRF250F for a 2013 CRF250R last July. It was working great until I started having clutch problems. It would creep really hard when in gear with the clutch engaged, and sometimes it will die when I shift it into 1st still with the clutch pulled in. I took out all the friction plates and disks, washed them in a parts washer, soaked them in new oil, and did a transmission oil change. After this it was fine, but then it started again the next day. Plates and discs are a performance brand and show no signs of wear, and has a Wiseco clutch basket from 2016, and a newish clutch center. Could it be because of grooves in the clutch pressure plate in the holes where the springs go? Or possibly because the clutch cable is one year off and is longer then it should be? Im really stuck here guys and have no idea what to do. Really want to get it fixed because I might have the opportunity to trade it for a REALLY nice bike. Help!
  8. ivengefulnicki

    Clutch let out

    I have a 2008 Honda crf 450x and when I turn to the right the clutch lets out further and when I turn to the left the clutch lets out close. Does anyone know how to fix it?
  9. WenoG

    kx250f KX250F CLUTCH HUB MOVES?

    I recently tore my 2006 kx250f down to replace a broken case. Its all back together and everything works properly except the clutch. Its a full Hinson clutch basket, hub, plates etc. Plates are in great shape, basket has no notches nor does the hub. When I pull the clutch lever in the Pressure plate lifts but it takes the basket with it. Then when you let go it gets stuck like that and you have to push the whole assembly down by hand. Then pull the lever and it does it all over again. I noticed the plates were a little hard to pull apart but i think that's just from the oil. I have no clue whats going on. Everything seems to be put together right but i can't figure it out. Any help would be much appreciated.
  10. Looking to put a hydraulic one finger clutch on my bike but don't want to spend Clake money. Recommendations appreciated.
  11. SSP555

    Kx250f stalling off clutch

    Hey guys, I just picked up a 2014 kx250f with 3 hours on an entire rebuild for 1700 (not running). When I got home, I was able to get the bike running, however when I come off the clutch from first, the bike stalls no matter the RPM. Is this a clutch issue? Or perhaps electrical? When I tore into the top end I did notice my exhaust valves were off spec so could this be the culprit? This is my first FI bike, so any advice helps. Thanks in advance
  12. MarcusDude

    2014 Kx 250f issues

    So i have bought a used bike with only 17 hours on it and is very clean. I went to ride it once with no issues and then washed the bike. After that day the air filter/Air box was making a weird sucking sound with every stroke of the engine. Second issue is when i idle in neutral there is a slight scraping or engaging sound in the bike but it goes away when i pull the clutch in. Also the bike turns off when i go into first gear Plz help ps none of these issues were present the day i got it
  13. We picked up a used 2016 CRF125 Big wheel that is in pretty solid shape. One thing I've noticed is that when shifting into any gear, releasing the clutch lever and then giving it some throttle I get a fairly noticeable "jerk". It feels like maybe the clutch is engaging late even though I've fully released the lever. I don't have a ton of experience with bikes and I'm comparing the feel to the CRF230 we own which is fairly smooth when switching between speeds. Any advice would be appreciated.
  14. ashfmxuk

    help gear shift

    Really need some help just replaced crank seals done everything by the book put it all back together no probs. have not attached chain and sprocket kit yet. Went to put it in gear not running of course as I was testing the angle of the shifter made a louder click than normal maybe because there is no trans oil in there? then I went to put it back in neutral and nothing its well and trully stuck going to have to remove the clutch yet again. Any ideas what I may of done before I go to far?
  15. I'm new to thumper talk and hope I can get some help here. I had my clutch cable break at the handlebar end while riding. I ordered a replacement and installed it as the repair manual says. I can't get the clutch to disengage. So I disconnected the cable at the engine end. With the bike on a stand and with the engine off I put it in first gear and no matter where I move the clutch lever at the engine the clutch won't disengage. I checked it by turning the rear tire by hand. I've noticed that the spring on the shaft of the lever has popped off but the pictures in the book don't show enough detail to see exactly where it should be hooked. It almost seems like it needs to be hooked and go a full revolution before the other end is hooked, to get any tension on it, but wont go that far. But that's a small issue. What could've gone wrong in my clutch to cause this? It seems odd to happen just cause my cable broke. The bike was towed a mile or so out of the woods in neutral after it broke. Even at that time I found it strange that I couldn't get it into first and ease out the clutch with the lever but I'm pretty sure the spring was popped off the lever at the time. Any help is appreciated since I'm supposed to take the family riding this coming weekend. Thanks!
  16. Hey everyone, As the title says when i pull the clutch in on my 04 KTM 125 it either stalls unless i give it a bit of gas and will move slowly forwards with the clutch lever fully pulled in. The clutch is a magura hydraulic clutch and the problem only just happened on a recent ride and never has happened before. I put some extra oil in before the ride due to a very small oil leak from the gasket where the hydraulic clutch slave connects to the engine, not sure if this changes anything though. So my main question is would it be the air in the system for the hydraulic clutch or would it be the actual clutch plates or basket (really hoping it is not). Thanks for reading hope everything made sense, feel free to ask questions.
  17. I got a Clake 2 system (easy pull hydraulic clutch + left hand rear brake) but I can'y get the clutch to work properly. I'm pretty sure that I've bled out any air but the slave doesn't seem to move the stock clutch actuation arm enough when the slave unit is in the stock bracket that held the OEM clutch cable. This is on a 2017 YZ250FX. It seems like the movement arc of the end of the clutch actuation arm doesn't allow the rod from the slave cylinder to move straight in and out without binding. Has anyone put a Magura hydraulic clutch or a Clake 2 or Clake Pro Lever on a 2014+ YZ250FX or YZ250F? If so, did you use the stock bracket for the slave unit or did you make or buy a different bracket?
  18. Brandon Swan

    Alignment marks

    From the album: Brandon Swan

  19. Mangusti

    530 clutch issues

    So... clutch works fine the hole day riding then i go back home to do a oil change, first one after top end rebuild. After that i leave my house and ride for 10min then suddenly clutch loses pressure completely but comes back little bit after few pumps. So then i check the fluids, and there really isn't any. I fill it up and pump the air out of the system so no more air coming out but sill lacking pressure. Now here it starts getting interesting, when i hold my clutch it engages the clutch but after 5 sec holding it in it loses all pressure. Also it feels very soft when the clutch lever is all the way out when i start pulling it engages. I have bled it the correct way and got all the dirty stuff out. There are no visible leaks and i have replaced the slave gasket. All help is appreciated
  20. Rage232

    2008 ttr 110

    Hi everyone. Looking at a first bike for my daughter. Ran across this 110, looking to get a very good deal due to the issues. I can wrench most anything myself. How do you feel about the comments? For Sale: i have a 2008 ttr-110 for sale. has electric start, decent tires, pro taper high bars, and a two brothers exhaust. just finished up a rebuild on it. everything in the bottom end was in spec. bored .50 over, new piston and rings, gaskets. valves were adjusted. the bad it shifts into neutral and first gear and runs perfect, but for some reason it wont hit 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. if i adjust the clutch a different way it will go into 1st and 2nd but not neutral. im not sure what the issue is exactly. The guy states he was just in the bottom end.. I would say he's sounds capable of fixing the issue himself, but found out many problems. Just figure'd I would post and get your thoughts on this. Thanks!!
  21. While riding recently, I have noticed that my bike (2006 YZ85) does not like to go into 1st gear. I will be trying to take off and stall, only to notice the bike was in 2nd the whole time. It will take quite a few kicks on the lever to even get the bike to go into 1st. It is very irritating. I recently went into the clutch side of the engine to replace some gaskets. Could I have messed something up or knocked something out of place? There are no weird noises, the bike just doesn't shift down normally when I am at a dead stop. I hate stalling because it makes me look like a trail noob compared to my friends. Any help appreciated.
  22. SteveInSpotsy

    Rekluse problems

    I am having an awful time with my EXP 3.0. I have a 2016 CRF450R. Since I have installed (and reinstalled many, many times) this clutch it seems to have never worked properly. When I first installed it all seemed to be well, including break in. Since then my bike began stalling. So a week or so ago I called (really good customer support by the way) and spoke with someone at Rekluse. He suggested I remove the red adjustment springs and install the blue, for a total of six blue adjustment springs. I did that, to no avail. I since have reinstalled the three red for a total of three blue and three red adjustment springs (just like it was shipped, "medium"). Lifter rod is seated properly. My latest issue is this: 1) With the correct free play I pull in my clutch but WITHOUT releasing the clutch I give it gas and the bike starts moving as if I were releasing the clutch (which I am not). 2) So, I then increase free play but when I do this and (pulling in the clutch) shift into first gear, the bike lunges forward and stalls (as if I wasn't pulling in the clutch at all). I have been in and out of this clutch so many times my head is spinning, and I simply don't know where to begin again. I ordered a new clutch cable just in case that is my problem. My configuration is as follows, in first to last disc: Judder seat Judder spring Thin clutch disc (larger I.D.) Steel drive REKLUSE Steel drive Clutch disc Steel drive Clutch disc Steel drive Clutch disc Steel drive Clutch disc All bolts are torqued to specs, oil is fresh. Any reasonable suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve
  23. Greetings everyone, I'm looking for opinions or experience on this 'issue'. I got my Beta new a little over a year ago. I noticed since the beginning that it shifts a bit rough/stiff compared to any of the other bikes I've had (KX450,YZFs, GSXR1000). This feels like an extension of the same issue... it doesn't like going into neutral very easily. If I get my fingers out of the way and pull the clutch lever to the grip, it definitely helps but I still feel it a bit. I've already adjusted the lever as far out as I want it. Is there more adjustment I need to do to the hydraulic clutch? Anybody else notice this about their Beta? I think I have about 30 hours on it, I'd have to check. Already changed the oil a couple times on this, but as I mentioned it's been the same since I've had it. I did take it to the shop to inquire about it, of course they said it's fine. Thanks for your input.
  24. Kawasaki.275

    2015 kx250f problems

    Hi guys any response would be great. So I just got this 2015 kx250f like 3 weeks ago and I haven't got to riding it that much but since then I've already noticed a few things that are a little abnormal. Whenever the bike is warmed up or even ridden for a while the clutch seems to be jerky and not smooth when taking off from stop. what could be causing this jerkyness? I've replaced the oil in the bike and adjusted the clutch line, nothing helped. When the bike is rolling I can shift the bike into neutral but not when stopped (while the bike is running of course). Also the one that is really concerning me- whenever the bike is cold started(and idling), idling( when warmed up) or cruising in low rpm and trying to accelerate I hear this knocking noise. But whenever I'm revving the bike just a little bit all the way to high rpms the noise seems to go away. It doesn't loose any power and it's only at really low rpms. I can confirm it's coming from the engine and not the chain since I've adjusted the chain to spec. Thanks in advance
  25. digitalzombie

    Clutch drag adjustment?

    I have a 2008 CRF250X, it is my first dirt bike. I feel like there is something wrong with either the clutch cable, its adjustments or the clutch pack/pressure plate. Here are the symptoms from different scenarios: 1) Bike is cold, it is in first gear, moving the bike forward or backward is extremely hard while the clutch lever is pulled in. Rear tire is trying to move the piston it feels like. Once I get it going it gets a bit easier to roll. 2) Bike is cold, it is in neutral, when I start the bike and let it run for a minute or two, get on the bike pull the clutch, hold the front brake and put the bike in first gear the bike instantly stalls while jerking forward. 3) Bike is cold, it is in first gear, I try to start the bike with the clutch pulled in, it jerks forward a bit but starts. Once the bike starts and oil is flowing around it does not jerk any more and bike can be almost freely pushed around while it is in first gear and clutch is in. So to me it feels like when the bike is cold and engine not running, no matter how much I pull the clutch, it does not fully disengage the drive train. Once the bike starts it looks like the clutch starts to work fine. Is this normal? Is it a worn or badly adjusted clutch cable? Is the clutch bad and needs service? Not enough oil in the tranny? Wrong oil in the tranny? (Shell Rotella non synthetic)