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Found 173 results

  1. Ilia .

    drz400 Later model DRZ 400 E

    Recently, I purchased a 2017 DRZ400E which are still sold here in Australia. Looking through the FAQ, I am not sure how much of the fixes apply to later models. I have read somewhere that the early model E came out with more power then the S and M models.The dealers here de-restrict the bike before the new owner pick them up so just wondering if anyone could shed some light on some of my questions. 2017 DRZ400E Do these have the upgraded cam & carb? Do they still need the 3x3 mod to boast power? Do all or some of the fixes in the FAQ still apply. Thanks in advance.
  2. I picked up a 2000 DRZ400s last year and it starting running rough late into the riding season. Decided Top End needed a rebuild so why not go big bore. I have never messed with anything carb'd so I was wondering if i go to the 434 big bore kit with the stock carb and a gutted exhaust what jetting do i need to run. I know the jd jet kit is sold here and im thinking of getting that but what needle do i need i see a lot of different opinions of what is best also the 3x3 mod is not done yet. From my understanding your just cutting holes in the airbox and re-jetting the carb right?? Sorry for my ignorance in the matter but this is my first Sumo/dirtbike.
  3. Supermotofool

    Let's Build! Motor Teardown

    Alright good news. Had saved up a bunch of money expecting to owe a significant amount for taxes.. Turns out I don't owe nearly as much!! Time to put the money to good use and build a nice performance motor for my drz. I am planning on doing a full 470 kit from ebay (Stage 2 cams, +4mm Crank, 94mm Piston/Jug) Has anybody else done this big of a displacement change? If so how bad will this hurt my reliability? I know it wont be nearly as reliable as stock, obviously.. just wanted to get a few opinions before I jump into ordering everything. Also, if I follow through with it I would be doing the MX39 carb swap. I am running a new Yoshi RS-2 full system, but will swap to MRD if it will make a significant difference. Thank you guys, Brad
  4. DRZ4000

    Factory exhaust V Delkevik

    My original factory exhaust was a badly corroded so soon after the purchase of the bike I bought a Delkevik replacement and was quite pleased with its fit and appearance but always thought it was a bit too noisy. I also noticed an irregular fast idle when the bike was hot and but otherwise all ok. I bought myself a new welder and managed to repair the original factory exhaust so decided to put it back on the bike...wow!!! All I can say is, if your factory exhaust is still on the bike..do not touch it! The bike runs so much sweeter... quiet, smooth, gentle power delivery from low rpm and overall a much more pleasant experience.... I guess Mr Suzuki spent a lot of time and money making sure the exhaust was as good as it could be within the regulations so why change it? If you do change the exhaust I suspect changes to the carb will also be required but based on my experience leave well alone! ps I have an nearly new Delkevik for sale!
  5. Sokoloveee14

    2001 DRZ400s not starting need help

    Alright im going to try and be as detailed as possible. Last road my 2001 DRZ400S in september, did an atv dirt bike ride with a group and it was about 40 miles of nothing but off road. crashed a few times and broke left rear turn signal. replaced the left rear signal, didnt get the chance to ride it since due to military stuff and leave. let the battery die on it and tried to jump it, jumped it and after a 5-10 minutes of cranking trying to get it running it finally kicked on but it ran very rough. lots of popping and back firing and would only stay running if i held the throttle half open and still connected to the jumping vehicle. came to conclusion that the battery was done. ordered new battery (BikeMaster TruGel MG7B-4). Got it in put it in the bike and tried to fire and it would just turn over and over but wouldnt start. exhaust would thump as the engine turned. pulled the spark plug and it was black, changed the plug to a new one, gapped right, checked for spark and got it put that in and it would still just turn over and over and not fire, still thumping from the exhaust. drained the carb, new gas. pulled the plug again and it was dry, put some gas on it and tried to fire again and same result. decided to pull the carb, jets were all junked up changed them out with MSR Carburetor kit from motorcycle superstore, only jet i didnt change was the secondary air jet that the diaphragm and needle sit on as it was clean, put the carb back together following the specs in the manual. put the carb back in the bike and same result, it would turn over and over, same thump from the exhaust but would not fire but there were times where it sounded like it was about to start (turned over faster and sound changed) but it never started and would only turn over. checked the plug again and it was still dry, still got spark, put more fuel on the plug again and same result. not sure what else to check but i hope one of yall out there can give me some advice to fix this. weather is too nice not to ride.
  6. So I’m reading all over about how most people switch to the manual cam chain tensioner on drzs is this necessary on a 2017?
  7. Kyles287

    Is my bike burning oil?

    I just did an oil change w/ filter about a week ago. That same day, the dip stick showed that there is oil. In these past few days, I kept checking my oil dipstick after 20 minute rides and it shows that there is no oil in the bike. The manual said to unscrew the oil level check bolt and oil started to come out when the bike is up right. So I assume there is oil in the engine, but it's weird it's not showing up on the dipstick. So today I decided to start up the bike and let it idle for about 3 minutes and I started to rev it and white smoke came out of the exhaust. I know the bike has a screen filter that's located in the frame, but I've never taken it out to look at it. Also there is no oil in the coolant because the coolant is clear in the radiator. Is the bike burning oil? If so, what do you guys recommend? I have a 2001 DRZ400s w/ almost 40,000 miles. Thanks for your help!
  8. Hi guys, Long time reader, first time poster here! So after I made a capital mistake selling my beloved DRZ400SM about a year ago, I have decided to get me another one. However, this time around, my intend is to use the machine for trail riding and what we Germans call "Endurowandern" (= Enduro hiking) - which is ironic because it is mostly forbidden in our country. Anyway, I was all but set to purchase a 400S, when I learned about the E version with more aggressive fuelling and overall more power. Unfortunately, these things are incredibly difficult to come by, so I am looking at anything that resembles an E - which brings me to my question: Close to where I live (East Germany) a DRZ400 Y (E) is available. Other than the kicker, is there anything that is vastly different compared to the later models? I thought I heard somewhere that the adjustable suspension was only offered from 2002 onwards?! Also, is there any difference in noise? I know this question might sound weird, but since I will be driving through forests etc., I would like to keep the sound level to a minimum. Looking forward to your replies! Thanks a lot, Chimp
  9. Time Left: 8 days and 19 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    My bike was stolen so I'm liquidating my spare parts. A few years back, I installed an OEM "E" Header on my bike. This was sitting on the shelf when my bike was stolen. As is clearly seen in the pictures, there's a think layer of rust over the whole pipe, but beyond that, it's in good shape. No dents, dings, or bends. A quick shot with a sand blaster or wire wheel and some high temp paint will have this looking like new. This is the header only. No hardward included. I do have the old "S" clamp though, so I'll throw that in. $10 + shipping Thx for looking.

    $10.00

    West Lafayette, Indiana - US

  10. Allyyyson25

    Can I mix oil?

    Hi guys, I am currently using Mobil fully synthetic 10W-40 oil in my bike. Since by bike is low on oil, I'm going to add some in. What I have with me is Motul fully synthetic 10W-40 oil. Am I able to mix the different brands of oil because they're both 10W-40? Thanks for your help!
  11. Chris Robertson

    Rejetting in the UK

    Hi guys, i'm looking for some help on rejetting my bike. Basically every guide I see is about the DJ and JD jetting kits which are obscenely overpriced to get shipped to the UK, we're talking around $150 for something that should be less than half of that cost given the parts in the kits. So, I was wondering if anyone knows of somewhere in the UK these can be purchased at a sensible price or a workaround of buying the parts individually? I've got a DRZ400s (2001) and I've yet to take the carb off, although the bike came with an FMF downpipe and exhaust, it seems to be running lean so for peace of mind I want to rejet the carb and open up the airbox (3x3). According to service manual documentation the bike has the following on the carb: Main Jet - 142.5 Pilot Air Jet - 135 Pilot Jet - #22.5 Am I correct in assuming it's the Main Jet and Pilot Jets that are what need changing? I've watched a few videos and read up a load about this and everyone seems to refer to the Main Jet, which in my case would need to be a 160 as I'm basically at sea level, however i'm having difficulty in finding what part I need to order, there's a UK website I can order from http://www.motocarb.com/ and this has a range of Mikuni jets but i'm unsure which ones I need and don't really want to pull the carb apart to identify these parts. Another post on these forums from almost ten years ago suggested that link and said to order the N100.606 part, however this seems to be the Pilot Air Jet so it just makes me really unsure on what I need. Would anyone be kind enough to clarify? Also I'm under the impression that the key to these kits that you can buy is the fact you can change the needle settings via the clip, is it possible to just add washers to the stock needle to have the same effect?
  12. So let’s hear it! Looking to see how long you’re guys drz went until a top end rebuild ?
  13. Texas drz

    Dr 400 carb help

    I have a drz 400 that had a 39 pumper and mrd exhaust already installed with a 3x3 mod. I took it and a factory xr650l to New Mexico and rode them at 7000 to 8000 ft elevation. the 650 had no problems but the drz died a lot and just ran bad. I expected some difference due to the sea level jetting but not that bad. I started to think that it may be jetted too rich at sea level to begin with. when idling you can Rev it and it puffs some black smoke., and dies at red lights on long rides. I've included a picture of the air box mod that was done on it, I've never seen one done like this. is it ok or does it need a normal 3x3 mod. the picture of the carb shows how the carb is leaning, I tried to straighten it but the choke hits to fuel valve. is this a problem, if so what is the fix? lastly they removed the oil separater when the smog stuff was removed. the hose is ran into the air breather box with a filter on the end of it. the inside of the air box is covered in oil and it dips oil out of the air box after every ride. is this normal? I'm going to buy a jd jet kit and rejet it but just wasn't sure about the rest of these items.
  14. Hello all! My name is Miles and I need some help gauging what to expect for condition/"reliability" you could say, of my DRZ400E for cross country travel! I am looking into traveling the Trans America Trail. I'm from Rhode Island and found an alternate rout where I can start on the West border of Connecticut. Ending in Colorado, to Nevada, then California; and cruising something along the lines of RT66 back. [just for reference, don't mean to ramble] The Machine: 2003 DRZ400-E ~6k miles total - 5k lightly ridden, never seen dirt - 0.8k %100 hard off road [past year] Frequent Oil changes, Air Filter changes {I ride with the guy I purchased it from nearly daily. He was good about maintenance on the regular, but also pushe the bike in the woods just as much!} Front and Rear Suspension rebuilt, carburetor rebuilt all last year Stock everything except FMF power bomb header and exhaust muffler, and Vapor Trail Tech, lights + fork socks Expected Maintenance: Top End Rebuild, Timing, Valves adjusted [Have not done compression test, but i would expect new top to be necessary] obvious things such as Brake Pads, Fluids, Chain/Sprockets, Tries, Heavy Tubes From this information, And Any You Can Think Of To Ask, does this DRZ have potential for the Trans America Trail; a ~6'000 dirt, then ~4,000 road return trip?! Or would I be better off selling it for a newer model? Thanks! -Miles
  15. Hey all. This is my first time posting from my phone. At work right now without computer. I can't figure it how to find the classifieds, but I figured this is probably a better spot anyway. I have a 2008 SM and I want to trade straight across my wheels for your S/E wheels. I will keep my brake rotors and sprocket, you can do the same. You will get my tires too. The front has a good year or so left on it and the rear maybe a few months, depending. I don't need tires in this trade. I just want DRZ dirt wheels. No money. Just trade. I live in San Diego, but I will be going up to the San Francisco area next week. Let me know. Post, PM. No bent or broken wheels, please. My SM wheels are in good shape. I'll post a few photos tonight. Thanks
  16. One of the major shortfalls of the DRZ400 is the front/rear suspension in stock form. Early non adjustable forks were too spongy soft and later adjustable forks were stiff and tracked poorly. The rebound only adjustable rear shock was a bit better than the front end but still left a lot to be desired. Compared to my Husqvarna 610 it felt downright anemic and dangerous. While you can sink a bunch of money into revalving, respring, racetech, ect. and end up with a nice ride, I was more interested in what I might get with a bolt on swap. If you read through the forums there is ample info about which forks can swap onto the DRZ with the RM forks being the preferred. However, there are lots of variations in offset which complicate which year to buy, it's a little vague what exactly is direct compatible, and there are a ton of opinions on how it will ride better/worse etc, but very few reports back from people who have made the swap. That's why I'm writing this up. I chose to take a less expensive route which I feel looks better and performs to a level Im used to with my 2 stroke MX bikes. I direct swapped the triples and forks from an 05 RM250, reusing my stock wheel, rotor, caliper, and headlight with a DRZ400SM headlight mount, all sourced online for less than $200. All of this was direct bolt on with no modification. This change alone was night and day better in every way. It held a line with much more confidence and less chatter, it handles soft sand more like it's riding on it and less like it occasionally plows, it rides much smoother at higher speeds, and it's less twitchy as opposed to more. It felt much more nimble and lighter even though any weight loss was minimal. With just the front end swapped It immediately felt on par with my Husqvarna. In fact, it feels so much like my 2 stroke MX bike that I was genuinely suprised. This was all with the stock rear shock which now felt too soft and the new limiting factor. For the rear I direct swapped an 06 RM125 rear shock and reused my stock drz spring to help manage my weight. Realistically I should be running a slightly stiffer spring but with the addition of adjustable high speed/low speed compression that comes on the rm125 shock, the rear end management feels again substantially improved. The speed, confidence, and aggression at which I can take obstacles feels like a completely different bike. It does sit higher. By my measurements it has a bit more travel now. To my surprise, it feels better on the road up to 80mph and tracks very well with maybe a tad more brake dive than stock. All this being said, I'm not saying you should make the swap. I'm not saying it handles better than a boat load of money thrown at the stock forks. I'm not saying that my style of Southern California Ocotillo Wells desert riding is directly comparable to your style of riding. What I am saying is there is a lot of erroneous information about how this swap might perform and if it's worth it over stock. I feel based on cost and performance that it hands down is absolutely worth it! Feel free to post up if you want to know more. I would have appreciated some real world experience before I nervously made the leap.
  17. Hey everyone I have a 2017 drz400 I have never adjusted race sag or static sag on the rear yet , I am a 250 lb rider 6ft tall was curious if anyone knows he recommended sag measurements ? Much appreciated .
  18. Recently took a side impact from a utility at ~30-40kph, left hand side, bike then took a fair spill onto the right hand. Most of the impact happened between the bar (Driven sideways out of bar clamps about 25mm) , and left radiator (left aftermarket rad guard bent out of shape somewhat) the shift lever took a hard enough strike to stick a fair dent (7-10mm deep) in my TT case guard. Local dealership is insisting on replacing a front brake lever and realigning the bars only (to avoid a write off) what sort of work could I reasonably expect to restore bike to safe condition? Should the engine be split to inspect the gear box? (I only ask this as I thought I read once impacts to the shift lever of that nature require it) Sorry for no pictures, makes it hard. 2008 Drz400E 12,000km
  19. So I finally got around to replacing the horrendous Suzuki footpegs. Went with some Moose Racing "Onyx" 1/2" back offset pegs. What should have been a 2-3 minute video turned about 5.5 minutes due to an issue with the right side that required some creative grinding to remedy. It was a strange thing for me. I love the feel, I love the toe-room, but having to grind on a brand new $90 part kinda pissed me off. I spent my own money on these (video not sponsored by Moose in any way) so I think I gave them a fair shake in the video.
  20. I'm currently considering a 2000 DRZ 400 with 31,000 miles on it. The owner wants $2500 for it but I think I could get it down to $2000 since it's so old. It seems like the owner knew what he was doing and took care of it well since he knew to install a manual cam chain tensioner, a radiator guard, 3x3 mod, etc. I know the DRZ has a solid motor so I feel like if the bike itself has been well taken care of, it should at least have another 20K miles in it, right? Am I wasting my time with this bike or do you think it will last me if I take good care of it? What would you offer for this bike? Here's the post: https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/5989999685.html
  21. Tiller60

    My bike is not straight

    Hey guys. I have a 2006 Drz400sm, which I just got new tires and was putting them on. Torqued it all down. But now, when I drove my bike after I was done; I have to turn a little right (with the handlebars) To go straight. its like I mis- aligned my tire on the front maybe? Any suggestions or answers would be appreciated.
  22. I'll try and give the timeline as best I can. Got a good deal months back on a bike that had cold start issues, well starting issue in general but it got better while warm. Had some issue idling but it ran really strong when you got it up to speed. Tried cleaning the stock carb multiple times (ultrasonic cleaned twice, once by me, once by a shop) and it didn't really solve much. Checked valves and they're in spec, which it should have been for having 9k miles. Don't get me wrong, bike ran well but wasn't reliable enough while starting that I didn't trust riding outside of my local area. Bit the bullet and bought an FCR MX39 which was my plan anyways, and that solved quite a bit of the issues, but brought up more. Start is better but it still takes a while, especially when cold. Idle is steady but will drop and die if too low. I occasionally get this loud pop while trying to start, like gun shot pop. I also now have this hanging idle issue when decelerating or coming to a stop. I can fix it by blipping the throttle which then makes the idles drop. If my idle is set too low, it will drop too low and stall. From my research I think it's a vacuum issue, which is weird cause the tubes are all there and the petcock vacuum is plugged. Took the throttle cables off to see if they were sticking and causing the issue but the video proves that's not true. I also checked for any air leaks near the boots, not it. Pulled the carb last night and only checked the slide but noticed this wearing on the top right corner and this super odd bubbling on the pressure plate. For the start issues I've heard bad CDI, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any suggestions or help they could provide? I promise a beer on me if I'm ever in your area! Video 1: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHRVNfbGhCcUxmWXc Video 2: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHaFVrRnlXcVpQSFE
  23. I have a drz400s with a +4mm stroker kit. I was running a 4 layer base gasket to lower the compression bit ended up blowing a head gasket anyway from not tightening down the head enough ( did the 34.5 from the factory manual saw on here it was supposed to be 43). Now when the head gasket blew the head warped slightly so I got it resurfaced. When I got it resurfaced the machinest said he had to take .07 inches off which seems like a lot to me. Now with a stroker and that reduction in clearance I'm worried about where the compression ratio is. Has anyone in a similar situation got any insight? Should I be alright with a 4 layer base gasket or am I sitting on a ticking time bomb. Thanks.
  24. Hey what's up everyone, this is my first post as well as my first time looping a motorcycle (hopefully the last). I was practicing clutching up in 2nd gear, and got up to 35 and then got cocky with the throttle and looped my dang bike. no serious injuries other than really bruised knees covered with road rash. I was able to ride home luckily. I feel foolish but a good wheelie is &%$#@!ing fun. However my ride just isn't the same. I need a new tail light, I can figure out this much I'm having a hard time figuring out of my handle bar mount has been damaged or the handle bars themselves. I have pro taper contours (1.25in) which are pretty rigid but 35 isn't exactly a low speed crash. One bar end is completely missing and the throttle sleeve is shit. Forks maybe need to be adjusted as well as front wheel balance? I have some photos if y'all could help me decide what I got to do to get back riding. Thanks everyone! Be safe. 2015 Drz400sm mods: JD jet kit, 3x3, full yoshi rs2, pro taper contours
  25. Zach7018

    DRZ BURNING OIL!!!

    I have a 2002 drz400s that just hit 11,500 miles. I've owned it about 1000 of those miles and they were done some highway, some urban street and some trail. I had an issue a while back with the float needle seat o-ring letting fuel into the oil, changed the o-ring and that seemed to be the end of it. At first the bike wasn't running great but after fixing that carb issue, a 3x3 mod and a JD jet kit I'm in love with this machine...which is why I'm very concerned about her drinking oil!!! Ive noticed over about the last 300 miles or so it has gone from full on the dip stick to about half. This morning I took her around the block to get her all warmed up and check the oil and it was about 3/4 of the way up the stick. This afternoon I did about 40 miles highway and 20 miles trail and came back and checked and it was half. I decided to dump a little oil in there until it read full on the stick. I"m confused because the bike is running pretty well and if it was drinking that much oil and had bad rings I would think this would be noticed. There are no leaks on the floor of my garage or any signs on the engine thats its leaking, also no sign of oil in the exhaust. So ...What could it be, is it immediately serious, and can I just keep adding oil and get another 1000 miles out of it before I have to rebuild her?
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