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Found 59 results

  1. hello everyone! i recently bought a used 2007 drz400sm with ~24000kms(~15000miles) and i can say it has a good power runs great but by time im discovering some problems that might be serious.. so the bike has a full yoshi pipe 3x3 air box mod k&n air filter jd jetting currently running with 160# jet and the thinner needle (clip on the 3rd from top) so the first problem i noticed was while i was cruising about 90-110kmph(55-70mph) the bike was slightly cutting out and coming back, going back and forth like it was running out of gas.. but when i accelerate at those speeds it goes fine till i hold the throttle steady again.. really annoying shit so i guessed it was something wrong with the carb..so i tapped the 3x3 hole on the air box to see if it was lean or rich and yeah it fixed it a little bit.. so in the end i taped about 2/3 of the of the 3x3 hole and it was going ok.. after few days i went for a ride and it did it again so i thought maybe change the oil.. i drained the oil from the frame and engine and all together was 1500ml(motul 15/50 semi-synthetic)..so i changed the oil and filter and put 1800ml(motul 15/50 full-sythetic) and the oil was higher than the highest mark on the dipstick. took the bike for a ride and WOW it was running great! no wobbles no shitty cruising anymore! After a few days i took it for a ride for about 1 hour non-stop. and while i was cruising it started to wobble back and forth like it was running out of gas again.. i stopped, waited for about 2-3 min and checked the oil and the oil was barely touching the dipstick.. went back home, drained the oil and again found there was only 1500ml of oil in there... it consumed about 300ml of oil in about 200km(125miles)... Is this happening because i put a full-synthetic oil in it?? what do you guys think? need more opinions and suggestions because I told a pretty good motorcycle mechanic about it and he told me that most probably i need a new piston and set of rings but really need you guys to tell me what you think! also if in the end of the day i need to change the piston and ring what do you guys recommend? that guys told me to not buy any high-comp pistons and its better to put OEM piston and rings to not have problems in the summer because it gets really hot over here.. what about wiseco/vertex/ etc etc? (btw OEM piston kit here is about 200euros) thanks a lot for any help and sorry for my english..
  2. Hey TT members, Recently I pulled the trigger on a new stock '17SM as a first bike after hearing some of the fantastic reviews it gets here and elsewhere and rode it home stoked as can be this last friday. Stopped off 5 mins away home in a quiet street and got a feel for the thing, some take-offs, shifting, braking etc. was taking it easy but having a blast just with that. During this process I noticed that often when rolling on or off the throttle (to/from idle/freeplay) there can be a bit of a lurch particularly at lower speeds/rpm (coming around a corner etc.). From a bit of trawling around the forums it seems like that this may be 'lugging' the throttle? I guess I was expecting the idle/engaged transition to be a little less jumpy, I guess feathering the clutch at those speeds is required. Anyway I figure way I'll come back to a quiet spot for the next few weeks and build confidence, and particularly master the clutch before I spend too much time on the commute or in heavy traffic. Fast forward to the next morning. Get up early to avoid traffic and head off to do some more practice. Still noticing the lurch on and off, but trying to be smooth with shifts and matching the downshifts in particular. Lo and behold, I come to a set of lights, and begin to shift down (second to first?) - note, it gets a little hazy here - and quick as you know it, the bike is flapping from side to side, I'm gripping the bars wondering what is happening, and then I'm on my arse sliding down the street at 30kph having looped it out from under me. After going over it in my mind, I'm assuming I must have dropped the clutch during the shift and the sudden acceleration sent me back in the seat due to bad body position not gripping tank hard enough with legs, I instinctively grab the bars harder = more throttle, rest is history. Safe to say it scared the shit out of me and my confidence (and hip/neck) are a little battered. Thankfully helmet and gear did the job except for the jacket riding up during the slide and I'm counting my lucky stars that there wasn't anyone behind me or coming the other way. Bike seems fine, a little scratched is all. So for the questions. Obviously the above was pretty much completely rider error, and when the body and mind are ready to get back on I want to put the time into improving my skills (the irony of this happening on the way to do so is not lost on me!) I feel very humbled by the experience, and have a good sense of how far I have to go. In that vein, can anybody recommend any videos/instructionals/etc. for the drz or motard style bikes regarding braking, handling, clutch and body positioning? I feel like there's not a huge amount of cross-over from regular street bikes due to the ergonomics and height etc or am I off the mark there? also at the pre-learner course we were warned off using anything less than 4 fingers to brake with, but between the lurch in rolling off the throttle (even just to set up the brakes) and the braking it feels unsteady. Think I will adjust the levers down a bit to make this easier though. All that being said I'm still wondering about the lurch rolling on and off the throttle. Is this just due to the bike being a single cylinder and liking to rev higher? Is there a way to improve the smoothness from free-play into throttle especially at low speeds? It feels like it comes on and off quite strongly into engine braking at the engagement point. Does this change as the bike breaks in? I noticed that the manual recommends using the clutch below 15kph, though even below around 20 (from the unfortunately VERY limited time i spent on it) the engine was feeling a little unhappy. Just wanted to confirm that this is to be expected Sorry for the essay and appreciating the time taken.. Think I just needed to get it out my head a bit. Cheers, Rotts.
  3. itsmedturner24

    Supermoto in Louisville, Kentucky

    New here, purchased my 2016 Suzuki DR-Z400sm in February and am having a blast on it... Like 1200 miles by me already..... Anybody in the area here? Will be hauling up to Louisville, KY this Sunday (4/29/18) and we are looking for more people to ride with. SM friendly trail and street riding will be done. I'm new to the bike world and am looking for more people to start riding with in the area as not many people I know have bikes like this. It would be awesome to get a handful of people together to go riding, but me and the guy I am riding with are both new and don't know many people to ask!
  4. Help, so my 2007 drz400sm needs a stator cover. Do you guys know if the Kfx,dvx,Ltz, stator cover is the same as the drz400? Before I buy this of eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292016781547
  5. Hi Guys this is my first post. This is my go to forums for the DRZ SM. Well to get into it, I replaced a my stator that went out with a RM stator, I also replaced the RR at the same time cause you know why not do both. I reinstalled everything exactly how it was taken out. It was all plug and play. After starting the bike that night it idled just fine, gave it a few revs... all was good!! Next day I decide to ride it around the block to do a road test. Went down the block thought all was good drove maybe 100 ft. turn corner give it gas and ..... POP!! headlight blows up bike shuts off smells like burning plastic. I push it back to my garage pull seat back off. I notice inline fuse was blown. I replace it start bike back up.. pop it blows instantly. I noticed smoke coming from large CDI plug. Pull it off sure enough the orange and white stripe wire is melting and hot as hell. I'm baffled. I am by no means a mechanic but I am decently inclined to do most jobs, I hate electrical. Can anyone tell me where I may have gone wrong...? I can upload pictures for anyone. I really need the bike up and running for MLK 2018 Miami!!
  6. Hey, new member here (been using the fourm for years) but just finally joined. I have about 8k miles on my 2015 DRZ400sm. I was riding about 80mph and felt a momentary loss of power, dropped off the throttle and it felt ok. At the next stop i could here top end noise like the piston was tapping so i tore it apart and found: The upper piston ring was ok, the lower was stuck in the groove (flush with the piston ) and unable to move around the piston. there was scuffing on both intake and exhaust side of the jug and piston. Before tearing apart i did a leakdown and could hear air from exhaust and from down by the timing chain. I will try to post pic and video with this post Bike was running great then had started puffing smoke when i get on it quick, and the idle would fluctuate a good bit 2015 DRZ- 3x3, k&n filter, FCR39 (with eddie mod) DRZ E airbox boot and exhaust header with drilled out stock SM muffler,
  7. How’s it going everyone. Have a question I’m hoping someone can answer. I have a drz 400sm. I was driving about a month ago and I got tboned with it on the back of my Jeep. Anyway the only damage was to the sub frame part where the stock plate and what not go onto. Not sure how it happened but anyway now I have one of those after market stand alone tail lights on it but because it’s recessed so far back you can’t see it with the stock fender. I stumbled across this picture from 2008 on another forum of a sick short back fender. So my question is anyone know what fender it is? Brand? Anything I have no idea from the post the guy had he didn’t give to much detail. Thanks everyone any and all help appreciated!
  8. Hi has anyone on here installed new cam chain on drz400 by connecting new one to the old one and just feeding it through ? Seems sooo much easier than taking everything apart . Thx
  9. Now I know there’s thousands of threads about drz’s but I was wondering if there was any way to make the speed drive on the Drz work with a non S or E model wheel. I came across a great deal on dirt bike rims and tires that’ll fit the drz but won’t work with the speed drive. Is there a way that I could just tack weld a notch for the speed drive or is it something more than that that would prevent the drive from not working.
  10. MarKSmaN98

    Advise on buying new DRZSM

    Hi, My name is Mark and this is my first post here. I've been on this site a lot looking things up about the DRZ, but I have never had a need to make an account. But in the near future (weeks to a few months) I will be getting my first DRZ, although not my first motorcycle. Also, I'm sure this question has been asked many times before but every person and situation is unique and I wanted to get answers for me and my situation. I wanted to ask the community what you think about: 1.) should I even buy new? (are there any benefits of the 2018 model vs a 2000? Excluding mileage, wear, idiots screwing with the engine and whatnot) 2.) where should I go to get the motorcycle (assuming the 2018 or 17, something that would be at a dealer), the Suzuki dealership? A general power sports place? Is there any place that can be said to almost always be better? (better prices, more friendly, more willing to adjust their prices, etc) 3. Should I lease/ get a loan? I am a college student with 3k in the bank. Should I put that down and get a new bike, or wait a month or so and get a used one for 5 or 6k? (the bikes here can be pretty expensive even used for many years with obvious signs of crashes/ wear) That should be about it. If I think of any more questions I'll post them in this thread. Thank you, Mark
  11. I know y'all have probably read thousands of drz engine noise complains, but this one is different. I just bought the bike, a 07 drz400sm with 9k miles, and this is my first drz. Likewise, it struck me how noisy the engine was. There is an annoying ticking that I assume is the cam chain and I plan on buying an mcct soon, but that is not the issue. It seems that in the mid rpm range, especially in low 2nd gear (because of low ambient noise) there is an almost siren like noise coming from the engine, pulsing. It's hard to tell what it its, but it gets louder and much more noticeable after the engine is nice and warm. I'll try to post an audio sample as soon as I can. Also, the pulsing seems to speed up with an increase of speed and doesn't pulse but rather stays constant while revving in neutral. It's noticeable when in neutral as well as other grears and throughout the rpms, but is especially noticeable while holding constant rpm. (The sound is not there during deceleration) Could this be the cam chain? I'm very new to the drz and I'm not sure if there is something that I should take care of before it locks up on me or if I'm just being paranoid. With the limited amount of info you have, tell me if you know what it could be. Thanks.
  12. Here are some observations regarding my kickstart kick install on a 2016 SM. 1) The 2 retainer screws were ridiculously tight and had soft heads. Even after reading repeatedly about this known issue did nothing to help. With both screws on the retainer I sprayed with Break-Free the night before, I used my heat gun for minutes and minutes with EACH screw, and I used an impact driver. Golfers at the Masters in a sudden-death playoff spend less time selecting a club then I did in choosing the right driver bit for this task. I was ready. I still managed to strip one of the two screws and used my TAP set to extract it. Those lil’ b’tards have to be JIS screws. (note proper retaining bracket orientation and how the X of the screws’ drive heads are assuming their true forms: upside down crucifixes.) The only thing I thought of that I didn’t try was to (lightly!) coat the heads with nail hardener (like yo mama uses) and let it cure first prior to loosening. Of course, you would need to replace those screws once removed as you wouldn’t want that chemical to melt off and mosey around your engine once you fired the bike up and the screws were irrigated with hot oil. Bottom Line: have backup screws [ part # 02122-0616A ] on hand and be prepared to tap. Removing the right footpeg gives a better angle of attack on the lower LEFTscrew. If you’ve never extracted a screw before by tap-ing, don’t make this your maiden voyage. Find an experienced wrenchologist. 2) BIKE ORIENTATION FOR INSTALL I installed my kit with my bike upright secured with tie-downs on my lift stand/jack. Most installs I’ve seen have been with the bike laid down on its side. Doing it upright <hee hee> came in handy when I had to drill for the screw extraction as it helped keep little metal drill shavings out of the case. (You still need to create a barrier using paper toweling around your drill sites to keep flying bits of screw shrapnel from making into your exposed case.) Keeping the bike upright lessened the exposure for dropping anything down in the nether reaches you will never reach in the bowels of your crankcase. Also, the bike wept oil for days and I was able to wick a lot of this dirty stuff out of the bottom of the crankcase over this time. (There will also be a few bonus drops of coolant from where the case would meet the water pump.) It is the most complete oil removal I have ever done (there were multiple ounces) and I doubt I could have accomplished it with the bike on its side. I only came across 2 small particles in the dirty oil that hadn’t made it to a plug magnet or the oil filter so that was encouraging. Installing the case gasket was probably more challenging with it upright. I aligned it on the case cover with my fingers over a couple of bolts I fished through, then attached both gasket and cover simultaneously for the win. 3) REMARKS ON DRZ400 FIXES I did three recommended fixes while I had the bike drained with the cases off: Waterpump RTV fix. The snap ring pliers bought for the kickstart shaft came in super handy. I used a heavy plastic spoon that I trimmed to fit to help remove the ceramic impeller shaft seal. My original waterpump housing o-ring [ 17435-29F00 ] seemed swollen and would not want to seat, so I’m glad I had a second one on hand. Counterbalancer nut. My torque wrenches are reversible and my nut was on there snug with about 38-40 lbft before it came loose. [Manual says 36] I did the Loctite fix and tightened to 36lbft. Primary nut. Set for 70 lbft to remove – snug. Set for 80lbft – snug. Set for 90lbft – still snug. Set for 100 lbft and it still wouldn’t budge. Used Green (penetrating) Loctite and called it a day as it is on there for good. (Like many other post-2013 owners have found with starter clutch bolts and other bolts – they’re on there for the long haul.) 4) EXHAUST HEATSHIELD COMPATIBILITY I have the full Yoshimura RS/2 competition exhaust and I had to remove the heat shield in order to accommodate the kickstart lever. There are only a couple of millimeters of clearance between the lever and the pipe itself. This was odd as I have seen pics on the internet of guys with Yosh pipes with Yosh heatshields that had no clearance problems with their kickstart levers. Maybe they modded their heatshields or something? 5) Final Remarks: -Use Mr. Cobb’s DRZ400 kickstart install guide and the Ewetube video by the FLB Club. Both very handy. -Make sure you budget time to let your Loctite and RTV silicone cure before adding fluids let alone starting. (The 24-hour MINIMUM will be one of the longest waits of your life.) -Also, if you’ve never kicked a bike to life before, have your heavyweight boots on in case you pull a rookie move with your new starting technique. Getting your newbie calf “lever-whipped” if your foot slips off would be no fun.
  13. Fr0styy_iz_i

    DRZ400-sm Plastics?

    Alright so I'm probably just blind or have no clue what I'm doing but I can't seem to find plastics for DRZ400SM's. Can anyone help? I just don't dig my stock plastics all that much.
  14. Supermotofool

    Handbrake / Clutch lever setup

    Hello all! I have everything setup and ready to go. I did the S to SM swingarm conversion, and I was lucky enough to have a friend that gave me 2 of the 50 stunt dual piston calipers for free off his bike after he sold it. All I need now is the bracket, a master, and a line, but this is where I want to be sure I make a good choice. I was thinking about going with the Dominator clutch cap on top of the brembo master cylinder.. But I am not sure how much adjustment there is on that. What would you guys recommend for the a stunt clutch/master setup? I do have the short impaktech clutch lever on currently, is there a good master that will fit with my clutch? All input is appreciated! Even trolling for a good laugh. lmao Thanks everyone!
  15. I've recently installed a full FMF exhaust system onto my 2016 DRZ400 and am wondering if I need to get a tune. If so, what do I need to get a tune? The only mods I have done is the exhaust and a K&N air filter.
  16. Time Left: 9 months and 14 days

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    In stock, ready for immediate shipping! These are brand-new, Keihin FCR39mm carburetors with all the parts, hardware, & instructions necessary to convert your Suzuki DR-Z400. You may also add-on a flexible fuel mixture screw, JD jetting kit, and high-clearance fuel mixture screw for the ultimate in power, throttle response, and adjustability. Short of installing a big bore cylinder kit and cams, installation of a Keihin FCR MX 39mm carburetor on your DR-Z is the single best performance up-grade that you can make. If you've already made the 3X3 mod to your bike and added a performance exhaust, this kit is the next, logical mod to compliment the increased air intake and exhaust. More @ https://thumpertalk.com/shop/DRZ400S-SM-FCR-MX-39mm-Conversion-Kit-p2006766611.html

    $794.57

    Las Vegas, Nevada - US

  17. Are there any differences between the front header of a DRZ400SM and DRZ400E except the diameter? I want to replace my exhaust system as the current one does not have an E-mark and also doesn't seem to have an option to temporarily put in a DB-killer. (And I do not like the looks of it anyways, so good excuse to change it ) I have got a DRZ400E engine in my DRZ400SM frame. Should I order a complete SM exhaust system or a SM muffler with DRZ400E front header?
  18. Hello TT, hopefully someone can shed some light on the mistake i made while attempting to replace the gasket behind the stator cover and then changing the oil. I removed the case then the old gasket placed the new one in and then sealed her back up fill her with about 1.8L of new moil. Let the bike sit. then i tried to start it and this is what i got. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B88B9EhVqIu5aVJxXzJMZVVjNTA
  19. Tiller60

    My bike is not straight

    Hey guys. I have a 2006 Drz400sm, which I just got new tires and was putting them on. Torqued it all down. But now, when I drove my bike after I was done; I have to turn a little right (with the handlebars) To go straight. its like I mis- aligned my tire on the front maybe? Any suggestions or answers would be appreciated.
  20. So here's my problem. I just rebuilt my top end (big bore kit) three tanks ago because my other piston had shattered it's skirt in two places. Had the bottom end rebuilt too with new bearings, new oil pump. I start riding it, and when I'm on the highway going 55mph, everytime i open the throttle >10%, i hear this rattling, knocking sound as if my valves were noisy. As soon as i let go of the throttle, sound goes away. Sound doesn't happen at idle, or even when cracking the throttle at idle. I suspected pre-ignition or detonation so i removed my spark plug and checked down my piston and here's what I found. Keep in mind the spark plug and piston are 3 gas tanks old. Bike idles super well, and bogs when I crack open throttle at 100% really fast, then recovers and revs up. Please any thoughts would be really aprpeciated. Maybe I'm just pannicking (hopefully)!!! Pics: SPECS: -Elevation: 540ft. -2001 DRZ400S Converted SM -Has manual cam chain tensioner and yes i know how to adjust it (idle and screw until click goes away) -434cc Cylinder Works Big Bore kit installed 3 gas tanks ago -3x3 Airbox -Pro Circuit T4 Exhaust with spark arrestor -Twin Air Air Filter -Stock Cams -Has FCR39MM Installed with following jets: -I always use 91 octane fuel ===>Coast enrichener removed and the two nipples plugged together with fuel hose ===>160 Main Jet ===>200 Main Air Jet ===>65 Starter Jet ===>60 Pilot Air Jet ===>45 Pilot jet ===>My needle is a OBDXP and the clip is at position 5. Spark plug: CR8E IX
  21. I am stumped on what to do and looking for guidance. i have a 2018 Drz400sm. put it through the first service then went through with the 3x3 mod with JD jet and full FMF pipes. followed everything the jet kit said and tuned for sea level with blue needle in 3rd position 160 main and 25 pilot and fuel screw 2 1/2 turns out. Took the bike for a spin and it ran like crap. Idle is fine . But the bike just has no power anywhere and feels like a 50cc machine. Top speed was 95kmph on the road. So following this a took the carb apart and tried more jetting combos thinking it was just running lean. No success. Still slow with no response. I put the bike back to complete stock jets and exhaust and taped over the 3x3 hole to replicate the snorkel back in. And even then it ran the exact same no power and weak response. So currently the bike is sitting back at full fmf exhaust , blue needle in 4th position, 160 main 25 pilot and 2 1/2 turns out with 3x3 airbox standard air filter. All to which it runs slow like the throttle doesn't work but every now and then it surges in power for a second and dies away. i looked into the TPS ( throttle control sensor) and it is running the correct resistance of 5 at closed throttle and 3.9 open. What could be the problem? help would be much appreciated.
  22. Heyo! I have a 2008 DRZ400SM with around 12k miles on it. The bike has been having issues starting lately, so I was hoping someone on here could help me trouble shoot. I'm able to get the bike to fire up fairly quickly, it will idle between the upper 1500s and mid 1700s (rpms) for a few minutes before the rpms begin to drop about 100rpms/sec before stalling out. I pulled the petcock out and checked that the fuel filter was clear of debris and it was. I also pulled the carb out to adjust the fuel mixture screw. It was only a half turn out. I turned it in to snug and backed it out 3 full turns, reinstalled, same issue. I pulled the carb back out and rejetted it. Previous jetting: Red Needle from JD Jet Kit, clip at 3rd position down, 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet. After Rejet: Swap to Blue Needle from JD Jet Kit, clip at 4th position down, 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet (carb was clean and jets were not clogged, fuel mixture screw remaining at 3 full turns out). Bike fired up instantly after rejetting, but after multiple minutes of idling (1600+/- 100) the rpms again dove and stalled, fan kicked on and coolant in overflow. *While trouble shooting this I have been adjusting the idle screw to keep the idle rate at 1600+/- 100 and will blip the throttle from time to time. 50% of the time I blip the throttle the rpms will stay up around 2500 or so and will take multiple seconds to drop back down into the normal idle range.* I threw my helmet on for a quick test spin around the neighborhood. The rpms seemed much higher than normal, ranging between 2500 and 4000, including when the clutch was pulled in. The rpms seemed to be "hanging up" and not falling back under 2k. I didn't go above 40 mph or above 3rd gear, most of the time I was in second gear. I pulled over to put the bike in neutral, the rpms finally dropped, but down to around 1400 and then 1100 before stalling. It took multiple seconds and a good twist on the throttle to get the bike to fire back up. I went straight home, put it in neutral and the rpms dove again and the bike died. I live in North Carolina, low elevation, hot and humid climate most of the year. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  23. I'm sure this has been beat to death, but I couldn't find a quick answer by doing a search... I have the Yoshimura RC2 full exhaust being delivered tomorrow. Question: The bike is brand new with only a few miles on it. Can I run the pipe on the stock jetting, a K&N installed and the snorkel removed from the airbox? Will it run okay? Will the plug burn properly? I do have the JD jetting kit and plan on doing the 3x3 cut out. Unfortunately I only have time to install the pipe before I leave for a trip. Thanks for the response.
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