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Found 61 results

  1. I went to do I top end on my bike because the compression felt low and it is now winter so there is not much riding to do anyway. When I took the piston out I noticed a lip had formed on the exhaust port side of the piston. There was no wear or scoring on the cylinder which I found strange. I put a new piston in warmed up the bike at idle with a few blips on the throttle. During this time when ever I would blip the throttle there would be a low quite sound like sand was in my expansion chamber. I blew out my pipe but the noise was still there. I pull the head of to just make sure everything look right after being ran and the piston had a small lip on it again. I've link a picture of the piston that I replaced with the new one.
  2. Hello there, I have a 2017 with 45 odd hours on it from new & my goal is to put over 200 hrs on it in an attempt to get a bit of value out of it... Im anticipating having to do a piston, clutch in that time but hopefully not a full overhaul... A friend has one with 194 hrs on it, its had a hard life & fairly beat up but mechanically (excluding tires/chains/sundries) he's only did the clutch in this time so I feel my goal should be readily achievable... on that note id be interested to see how long some of the more well ridden bikes have gone for...who here on the forum has the highest time bike & whats been done to it...? surely someone here's cracked the 4/500 hr mark? (& if so photos thanks)
  3. frontline510

    Need help with Timing

    Hello everyone, I am currently rebuilding my top end on my 2001 Wr250f. Everything has been going smoothly until it came time to set the cam timing. I have set the motor to tdc, and slipped both cams under the timing chain. No matter what I do, I cannot seem to align the camshaft timing marks level with the head of the motor. The exhaust side cam aligns perfectly with the dot sitting flush with the head line. The intake side cam mark always ends below the head line or above. Neither way looks natural. The dot is either too deep to the point I can't see it, or too high to the point it floats above the head line. Which way is correct? Thanks in advance for any input.
  4. i got a mint cr500 that was set up for low end.. i feel pretty slow on the bike because the front tire never really touches the ground. I run a lot faster times on my 250 4stroke anyways thats not the point. The top end feels pretty flat on the cr500 and was thinking of changing the carb and the pipe. It had a pj carb on it now with a fmf gnarly on it btw its a 96 motor. I have a cr500 parts bike i got for $100 as part of a deal and it had a 38 or 39mm airstriker carb and a brand new pro circuit pipe. If i changed the carb over and the pipe what adjustments will need to be made to the carb. Does anyone think it could keep that front tire a little more on the ground and give me more rev out on the top end. I do not wanna change the sprockets. I def want to have more of a top end was planning on doing a super moto but i might just make the parts bike the super and have 1 dirt 1 street any help would b appreciated
  5. 2008 crf250r. Just installed new gaskets for top end and new rings. I also adjusted the valves since the exhaust side had tightened up. I cleaned the jets in the carb prior to the top end work (which took about 3 weeks) It is still as difficult to start as before and i have to give the throttle a slight twist when i crank for it to start up. It will not idle and feels like it's significantly slower. I didn't ride it much before the top end work so maybe I'm just used to my 450 but it seems like it's sluggish. It doesn't pop at all though so what could be causing this?
  6. Garage_Dog

    Top end damage. Cause?

    I picked up the RB cheap. It wouldn't start (kick or pull start) even though it had spark and fuel. I started digging into the top end and found this. What do you think caused this? Thanks for your help -gd
  7. Brand new OEM piston has this small "dent" on the leading edge. Top of piston not smooth where you see the defect, sort of pushed up slightly, enough to feel with fingernail. Also you can see discoloration all around the defect, both on top and on front of piston. Would you use it or get RMATV to exchange it for another? I don't want to use it like this, especially with this defect running over exhaust port. Just want to see what others think and not overreact. What do you think?
  8. I have a bike someone gave me thats in pieces and I have a good 426 bottom end and a good 03 450 top end. Can I put these together and what if anything would I have to change?
  9. So I have a 1998 Yamaha Yz80, and I need a new top end. I found a 2002-2017 Yz85 piston kit, for a very reasonable price, and I was wondering if it would be able to fit my 98 Yz80? Would the piston, wrist pin, bearings, rings, Etc be able to fit? And will it work?
  10. Otto646

    kx250f God Awful Noise KX250F

    I recently purchased a 2010 KX250F from a friend of mine that had been sitting in his garage for about 5 years. The bike seemed to be in decent shape and the price was right so i picked it up. I went through most of the bike before riding it (air filter, oil, greased all the bearings, adjusted suspension, changed all the fluids, etc) The valves sounded a bit loose so i decided to have a "Buddy of mine" adjust the valves. I get the bike back, go for a ride and the cam chain tensioner falls out while i was riding, luckily i caught it very soon after it happened and it never jumped timing. I put the tensioner back in and continue to ride the rest of the day. as the day goes on the valves sound much looser than they were originally before the adjustment was done, I decided to call it a day and tear the bike down myself. I shim the loose valves and button the bike back up, but now the thing sounds god awful. Straight up clacking coming from the right side of the top end. Since then ive probably had the bike apart and back together 4 or 5 times trying to figure out the problem. Its not the auto decompression valve, every valve is in spec, timing is solid, and the cam chain tensioner is working fine. I'm stumped. anyone have any thoughts?
  11. rosebull2014

    DRZ 125L Top End Rebuild

    Hi All, I am going to be rebuilding the top end of my '07 DRZ 125L. I am what most would call a complete novice when it comes to rebuilding engines and am just looking for general information on parts required and any other things that I could need or would be helpful. I am also considering putting a bbk 150cc on it when I do the rebuild, Any thoughts? Thanks.
  12. My brother was rebuilding my top end for me on my 2002 yz250, and due to a failure on his torque wrench, he over tightened and snapped one of my studs . Now i only have 5 of 6 working bolts on the cylinder head. I have 2 questions. We are supposed to be leaving for a 5 day riding trip in a few days, so we don't have time to order a new one. A: can I achieve enough compression and avoid any disasters for one week without 1 of the 6? b: There is a pretty awesome machine shop by his house that may be able to make us one, but I can't locate the specs. Does anyone have the exact specs for a 2002 yz 250 cylinder head stud? Any and all help would be much appreciated.
  13. A 1994 KX125... This is my first 2-stroke (and a new purchase for me), i was told by the previous owner that the oil from the exhaust was a sign that it needed a new piston ring. Replaced the piston and ring and now the bike bogs down bad from a stop/very low speed while in first gear. New piston and ring (Wiseco spec sized for the year but is flat while the original one was crowned) Cleaned the carb (42 pilot jet with a 158 main jet) 800' above sea level Reeds look great Repacked the FMF silencer (still have oil out the exhaust so I know its running rich) I just can't figure out what else to do or check. The bike has great pull and power in the upper RPM range of first and all through the rest of the gears it pulls strong. Just looking for something that I might be missing. I have been searching this forum along with others for an answer to the issue I am having but have been unlucking in finding any leads...
  14. Hey, I picked up a 96' cr125 off Craigslist for pretty cheap. Learned my lesson from my last two stroke- gonna do a rebuild before I crank her up again... Anyways, pretty sure the bike has "piston slap" noise coming from the motor. I looked it up on Youtube, sounds like what it is. Is there anything special I need to know before I do a top end? I'm still a fairly inexperienced mechanic, but as far as I know, I need to get a bore-measuring tool and measure the cylinder bore before I buy a new piston. They make slightly oversized pistons for this kind of situation, right? I'll post pics sooner or later. Just gonna keep digging this thread up. Let me know your thoughts! *Edit*- The bike can roll in second gear. Noticed it when I was buying the bike. When I pop it in gear to rock it back and forth before I start it cold, it'll just roll through and you can hear the engine turn over. My guess is this is a symptom of a roached top end.
  15. I just rebuilt my kids 2013 YZ-125 that I had the cylinder professionally oversized by 2mm from Millenium Technologies last year. It made it a 134cc. I just rebuilt the motor for this season, I had MT-LLC re-plate the cylinder and match it to a new piston. I also had them deck the head for race gas only. My sqush is at .038. I plan on running race gas (sunoco 110 non oxygenated) at 32:1 with Redline (which is what I ran all last year). Here is where my concern begins. I did a compression test and it is right at 220psi. Will I be eating main bearings quickly? Will this motor hold up for a season with exceptional maintenance? Should I advance my timing about .002 to compensate for the high compression and reduce the pressure on the rod? I was told to simply double the base gasket and it will work. IF I do that, What will that do with the timing and jetting? Just a little out of my league with this much psi..... Please help with ideas. Thanks.
  16. 2008 crf250r, in the process of finishing up a top end rebuild, and after installing the timing chain onto the cam I deciding to hand crank the engine slowly with the kickstart to see if everything was alright. There is a distinct knock that sounds like it is coming from somewhere in the cylinder each time I turn the engine over. What would be causing this sound?
  17. So my 125 is bogging so much that is stalls when riding. It can be fine for a small amount of time, maybe half a lap but thats it, its fine when on the stand no bog at all. I took apart the top end today as I've read it could be the power valve, the bike has 4 laps on the new top end. The Z adjustment is out by 4mm, although it was perfect when rebuild was done. But the connecting rod won't move in order to adjust the Z measurement. I undone the screw the red arrow is pointing to and then moved the adjuster the blue arrow is pointing to but the rod does not move. Any advice?
  18. Before I put my 05 CRF250R away for the winter it was running weird. I noticed it was leaking oil out of the engine cover. It was understandable because i had just put a new stator in. The bike had been running oddly for some time before i realized it was leaking. I just took the bike out for the spring and now it doesn't even start. I bought a new engine gasket to try to fix the leak. I am currently installing it. I am wondering if the low compression could've messed up the top end? I rode it with low compression for about three weeks before it started to bog so bag i couldn't ride it anymore. Will replacing the seal fix my issue or have i created a whole new one?
  19. frontline510

    Wr250f Ground wire

    Hi everyone. I am currently rebuilding the top end on my 2001 Yamaha Wr250F w/ Athena 290 kit. I am reassembling and cannot find out where this part goes. It looks like a bracket or floated ground wire of some sort. Can anybody tell me what exactly this part is and where it goes? Any help is appreciated.
  20. Scheer

    2001 CR125 Rebuild

    Thought I would share my bike rebuild I did on my 2001 CR125. The bike was in a rough shape when I bought it. Here is the only pictures I have when I bought the bike. I didnt take before pictures. The picture does not do enough justice on how bad this bike was. Sorry about the quality it is the picture the guy send me and he had a filter on it. Got the bike back and started working on it right away. It would start only by bump starting and would not go into the powerband so I started to tear the bike down.(I did a compression test and it was at 60PSI cold) after i pulled the motor I found the cylinder to have a crack in the exhaust side and pits all down the cylinder. It had a Wiesco piston and crank. The pits down the cylinder, the walls were scored. The steering kept grabbing while turing so I tore apart the steering stem and found the shape of the bearings... Took the dremel and cut out the bearing it would not break loose due to being rusted bad. On the frame and swingarm I took the sand paper to and sanded it down from 600 grit to 800,1000,2000,3000 grit. Then on the pipe it is a pro circuit pipe that was black and I took a sandblaster to it then sanded it down. I used a torch on the seams to give it the blue tint. Have the bike completly tore down cases were not split this time the crank seemed fine no slop in it move freely figured it would be fine for awhile... front and rear shocks were rebuilt no shock oil was in either front or rear shocks, soaked the chain in gear oil for 2 weeks and let air dry for 2 days, cleaned up the case halves with wd-40 and a scotch brite pad. I wish I would of took before pictures of everything the cases were caked in cow manure and grass took a long time to get the stains out of the cases and swing arms. Was time to put the bike all back together piston and cylinder came got a oem cylinder and wiesco piston. I did not put in a new crank more to that later. Got the bike back together did not buy any plastics or look good things yet I planned within a month after the build to get all the plastics and graphics. I wanted to focus on all money going in to the bikes motor and more important things. Went to do a break in cycle on the bike ran great had no signs of anything going to fail started first kick, clutch worked great after I used it a bit but then was riding down a gravel road still during the break in cycle and the bike locked up on me that ended the break in cycle. Took it back and started to pull the motor and found that the crank locked up on me. Split the cases pulled the crank and decided to split the crank apart to see out of curiosity what it was and found the big end bearing to be shelled. The marks on the crank were from splitting the crank used a air hammer to split it. Ended up going with a OEM Crank and another Wiesco Piston. scored the piston bad with the chunks of the bearing, cylinder was fine no scoring. Big mistake not replacing the Crank after the crank locked up I looked up wiesco cranks and they say they do not last at all. Got new plastics, seat cover and graphics also and finished up the bike project. I spent plenty of time on the bike making it look good and cleaning it up. It was my first bike rebuild I ever have done.
  21. Sorry if this is not the right forum to post this, but I've recently started taking apart the top end on my 2008 ktm exc-r 450. I was able to loosen 3 out of the 4 bolts that hold the cylinder head on and when I got to the last one (front right shown in the picture) the inside rounded out. As you can see from the picture its pretty close to the side of the engine so nothing can fit around the outside of it. I tried using a star-head to get a little more grab on the inside of the bolt head but no luck. I'm trying to figure out what my options are before I make anything worse. I've been told I could cut the bolt head off, but if I do wont the threads inside still be holding the cylinder head down?? Maybe a stupid question, since from looking on the oem parts finder it looks like the threads dont start until their into that bottom part of the engine. I've also head of tack welding a bolt on top to remove it, but not sure how hard thatd be to do with such little space. Are there any other tools or tricks to getting this thing out before resorting to those last ditch efforts?
  22. Jdavis352

    Noise!!!!

    Alright I have searched and have done research on forums before but have never posted. New guys get eaten alive, I don't mind just help me out. I have an 05 yz250 that runs like a champ, well I came across a 2015 yz250 that I couldn't pass up but she don't sound right to me. Got it to the house, fires up, idles correctly, and revs smoothly. Little bit about the bike, it has a fmf fatty with the Q slip on that looks like a four stroke pipe, but no other real engine mods. At the top of the power band the bike sounds as if the power valve is loose or there's maybe a slight piston slap. I have had a bike with piston slap and it doesn't come to me as that. This is where I need your help. It does the loud cackle noise at the top of the band, then falls smoothly back into the power as it revs down some. Also when down shifting to bring on the power it makes a slight delay with a weird sounding small pop(kinda like a back fire, just quieter). Any help before I open this thing up would be helpful!!!! Thanks in advance ✊🏼
  23. So i went riding today, bike was running great. Noticed a substantial top end rattle, and a loss of power. Bike ran and rode out of the trails. Pulled it apart. It's got an Athena big bore kit and cylinder. Piston was scored by I believe the power valve. Cylinder fared pretty well. Rod has no up and down movement. The wrist pin and bearing was very sloppy when the jug was taken off. Took the piston off. I have some questions about the power valve, pics may help. There are wear marks on the power valve parts(see pics) so what next? Obliviously a new piston and cylinder honing. I've never taken apart a power band before, I want to make sure it isn't just gonna hit the new piston and ruin it.
  24. I’ve got a 2003 YZ250 which is due for a top end. I’m going to measure my cylinder which has a sleeve, and get it honed ready for a new piston. Will get bored or resleeved if needed. Real question is, what piston/top end is good to put in it. Single ring or double ring, what top end is good for bush riding/enduro/trail riding, would like 40+ hours. Any help would be great.
  25. ubercoper

    KTM top end advice needed

    I've been AWOL on here for a few years but I'm desperately in need some advice/ "expert" help... My 2000 KTM 300 grenaded with about 10 hours on a fresh top end. Here are the teardown pics. Piston is gonzo and the cylinder is going off to powerseal usa for repair. I'm wondering if this could be related to the horizontal play in the con rod? I may send this out to Andrew Cooksey to split cases and go deep ($$$) into a rebuild, but I'd like to save the expense if possible. Any and all advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! -Seb IMG_6216 by ubercooper2000, on Flickr
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