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Found 156 results

  1. Hi, Had my '07 YZ250 engine rebuilt about 5 hours ago by a shop which has since closed. Doing an oil change on the weekend I was surprised to see something attached to the end of the drain bolt (10mm socket for reference). It's difficult to identify what pin this is, but I think it could be part of the YPVS Governor. I found another thread on this forum that starts with the discovery of a different pin but also ends up finding one that looks just like mine. So before I start taking things apart, I have some questions: What is the role of this pin? Is it the pin in the attached diagram? If so, being part of the governor assembly, is it likely to be related to a weak top end? That would be my only complaint of the engine when i received it back. Riding this bike back to back with an '08 , theirs felt terrifying. How could it have come loose? Installer error? Should I be concerned it will come loose again? Is there anything I can do to prevent it coming loose again? If it shows no signs of damage, is it safe to assume the internals (i.e. the parts that would require a case split to inspect) have not been damaged during its journey to the drain bolt? If not, what specifically should I check? Lastly this post hopes to serve as a bit of a reference for anyone else who finds something similar. Thanks guys
  2. I am the happy owner of a 2016 yz250. I love the bike, the stock motor was great but I wanted something a that was a little bit faster. I gave millennium technologies a call and they told me for my needs I would want the 295 kit ported for mid to top end, milled for pump gas. I got it together 3 weeks later. No fitment or quality problems. Got my lectron carb tuned up for it, and I was in for a nasty surprise. The motor signs off after half throttle. I road the bike for 4 months, I only put 15 hours on it. The kit was a disappointment. It made no top end power at all. My brother has a 2017 250sx and his bike pulled on mine like I was on a ttr 125. I called millennium and they told me that my jetting was off, and I was running too nice of fuel. Didn't know 100 octane hurts motors. And lectrons don't have jets. The bike ran great, it had a lot of bottom to mid power and was very smooth. It just wasn't what I was looking for. They did not advertise it at all for what it is. I bought another cylinder and it is on its way to Harris Performance right now. I'm not a woods rider, the 295 is perfect for slow technical riding, but it isn't perfect for me. I'll be posting a review of the HP ported and milled mod 250 engine. I plan on making it a top end screamer cause that's what I've been missing over the past few months.
  3. 1970 Jawa CZ 250 and 1974 Yamaha yz250, were some of my favorite bikes I rode for years... A long time ago. I'm looking to get back into it, in a much slower pace of coarse ! I think 2 stroke might be my choice... but I open to some good advice. The 2 stoke yz250 and the yz250x , not much difference ? What about the 3 other 4 strokes ? yz250f, yz250fx and thewr250f ?? No track, no competition and so on, just good old fun cause I'm just too old ! Thanks guys !!
  4. I would like to know if a yz125 2002 models cdi unit fit a yz250 2003 model if so can you plz say it and would any modifications be needed.
  5. Basicly what the title says, I weigh 100lbs and ride a 2002 yz 250 I just bought this bike and its the newest and nicest bike I have ever owned im pretty proud of it lol (upgraded from a 1989 rm 250) Anyways I have never had suspension set up for myself on any bike I have ever owned besides clickers. my forks are leaking and I need to rebuild them so while im in there what all can I do too make this bike ride butter smooth for my weight? any advice on what and how I can set up this bike too ride best for me would be great. I cant seem too find anything with my weight on a bike this big any help would be greatly appreciated also I ride mostly trails roots rocks etc.
  6. What is this Red Top Jet Needle without any other markings on it? When I bought my 2012 YZ250 a few months back it wasn’t long before I took the carb apart and noticed it had a JN with no markings on it. The only thing I could ID on it was that the top/Head was painted red. I tried replacing the JN with others (EW, EJ, CW) for ID reasons but nothing seem to work as good as the Red Top JN. It just seems to be the magic JN! Need to know for future reference and recommend it to anyone!!!
  7. Just did a complete engine rebuild and while testing it for maybe 5 min it stopped. I had already started and stopped it several times but this time it was dead. The bike has spark and a lot of compression and it backfires when trying to start it. I cleaned the carb but it still wont start. I pulled of the ignition cover and noticed that the stator bolts where slightly loose. Can this be linked to the problem? I tried to change the timing but it did nothing. BTW I just bought this bike and the previous owner was the one to pull the engine apart.
  8. LEGITBANANAH

    HELP yz250 clutch question!

    so i bought a yz 250 recently and right off the bat after the test ride i noticed the clutch was a little sticky but it was a good price so i bought it anyway. when i took it apart today the first thing i noticed was that the oil i drained out of it was red, ATF right? i have heard of guys using ATF in their bikes so i didn't really think anything of it but once i got deeper into the motor i found it really hard to pull the discs out and that they would come out stuck to each other.. stuck together by the oil. the hub looks basically brand new and the basket has some wear on it but nothing real deep, at least not deep enough to hold anything together i think so was it the oil causing the clutch to be real sticky?? the shop manual recommend 10w 30 oil in it and after smelling it i know for sure that is not what came out. i just want some info on what this could be before i go out and buy a new basket... any info would be appreciated, thanks!
  9. Does anyone know where I can get blue side panels for 2015+ yz250 2stroke? I have been looking everywhere but cant seem to find them. would appreciate any leads. thanks
  10. Hi; I was wondering on what the model years were for the factory reed valve. I bought the bike used and it only came with a vforce reed cage and I wanted to go back to factory. Vfroce lists their cage would fit 98-New bikes but I know yamaha changed up the yz250 motor in 02 so not sure if the factory reed valve remained the same. Any help is greatly appreciated thanks
  11. Not really sure if this is the right spot to post this so my apologies if it is. Anyway I just put a new throttle cable on my yz250 as the old one was fraying, put it on with no trouble reconnected the fuel line turned the gas on and fired it up, as soon as I started the bike it started leaking gas out the overflow on the bottom of the float bowl, I took the float bowl off to see if the floats were stuck, they weren't, I tried adjusting the throttle as much as it would go and it continued to leak. Any ideas what the problem might be?
  12. It is cold cold COLD. I needed to do something so I studied my manual and made one change. N8RW, everything else is my warm weather set up even the air screw and clip position. I've been running it from 0 deg. F up to about 14 deg. F in the video below and it runs just like it does in warm weather. Even the burble or whatever is the same! It feels really good, curious what you guys think. Try not to laugh at the carhart riding gear and the empty rain-x jugs! they work.
  13. I'm and intermediate rider who rides very aggressively and on hard, but fast-paced woods/cross-country/harescramble riding. Sometimes I'll do technical, really tight trails, log crossings, and hillclimbs, etc. and I also will ride motocross tracks every once in a while. I currently own a 2008 KTM 250 XC-F with a bigger rear sprocket, FMF exhaust, aftermarket piston, and I typically run high octane fuel. I won't be upgrading for quite a while but I am planning ahead trying to decide what to save up for and all that. I'm sure this forum will also help others in similar situations. I'd like something that can top out faster than my bike but something that can accelerate quickly and have more torque as well. The majority of my riding is very fast-paced woods with hard corners and lots of roots and steep hills as well, so I'd like something that can blow through corners and accelerate quickly. But, I also ride a lot of tight technical trails so I'd like something that's torquey and has explosive, yet controllable power and something I can take over big logs and rocks. I'm fine with a bike that likes to be revved a lot as that's what I do on my 250xcf now. I'm used to four strokes although I'll probably adjust to a two stroke very quickly as I ride constantly. I'm leaning towards a 250 XC or a 350 XC-F although I've heard lots about KTM's 125 and 150 2 strokes, the 450 and 500, the wide ratio "w" models of the cross country bikes, and their respective motocross models just because I know how explosive they are. I understand that this is a lot to ask out of one bike but I'm going to be adding a lot of aftermarket parts to whatever I end up getting if it doesn't already have any. Tell me all about these bikes if any of you guys have ridden them! I'm probably going KTM because I've heard nothing but good things about them but I will still consider any other brands as well. Tell me any aftermarket you had to do, improvements to be done or downfalls of each bike, and all their advantages and things they're better at than the other ones if you've ridden more than one of these. This is more of a harescramble/cross-country racing post, but since some of my races have parts of motocross tracks I'd like to hear how they do on the track. Also, money isn't too huge of a concern with me but I will definitely not be able to get a brand new bike. I will be racing so if it's bigger than a 250 then I'll have to be sure that it can compete with bigger bikes. Thanks, in advance!
  14. I purchased a new yz250x and have only about 4-5 rides on it. Last weekend it was running good then the engine just quit. Checked the plug and it was fouled and seems to be running rich. Was wondering if anyone had some tips on what I should do. Change jet? Change fuel ratio? Currently running 40:1
  15. I need mechanical advice on a 1994 YZ 250 I had bought the bike cheap from some guy and the bike ran but was rough smoked a lot but still ran I had purchased the bike as a project I compleatly got rid of the old carburetor and put a brand new Kehin airstriker carb with boysen power reeds. I tore down the top end knowing it was going to need a rebuild put a new pro-X piston, rings and needle bearing. I replaced all gaskets with a mood racing gasket set. I threw the bike back togeather and it did not start thinking it was an electrical problem because the spark was week I replaced the stator, ignition coil, and the cdi box and switch put it back togeather and still did not want to start with fresh gas the spark plug it wet with gas it has great spark now and a lot of compression I’m stuck anyone have a idea?
  16. Here are the stacks I found on my rebound piston top to bottom as you disassemble the piston off the rod. How do these look? I am mostly interested in lowering the float to .3mm as the front feels vague and dives. What shim change would best accomplish this? 2008 yz250 is the bike. I am a vet A rider doing mostly single track in the north east with some fast trails. I am 5'10" 195lbs without gear. Was running 4.4N with 4mm measured preload and 1.6kg ics springs. But I'm going to install my 4.6N springs from advice found here when I reassemble the forks.
  17. It is entirely possible (or probable) it is me, and I am also breaking in new boots, but on my new 2018 YZ250X, I am finding my shifts to 3rd sometimes result in -- much to my chagrin -- still being in 2nd. And on a few occasions, when my attempted shift to 3rd has left me still in 2nd, even a hard pull up on the shift lever is not resulting in the shift to 3rd. Anyone else experiencing this problem? If so, any tips?
  18. I bought this 2005 yz250f off craigslist and i brought it home and rode it for 3 weeks just to realize when i took it apart it had a crack in the frame. I took this upon myself to purchase a new frame. The bolt holding the triangle in the rear suspension to the frame does not fit on the new frame. Yes, i am sure it is the right frame. Should i call a guy to weld the old frame or should i continue to try to get a new bolt made? -Jon
  19. I noticed some oily residue on the bottom of my case below my water pump, checked coolant level and it was just as It was when I refilled it last. I followed it as best as I could and it appears to be coming from the rubber gasket on the bottom on the power valve what does this indicate??? Again it's a very slow leak nothing is dripping I just noticed oily residue.
  20. Brandon Trumbla

    1998 YZ250 Hard to Kick, Wont Start

    Hey guys, I bought a 1998 yz250 that needed a top end rebuild. When checking the bike out the top end was already off, piston still on the rod. It turns over freely. I pressed the kick lever down and the piston obviously goes up and down. Basically the bike was a $700 buy that needed a top end. no big deal. new excel rims and dunlop tires, had everything to rebuild the top end already, new renthal bars, grips, etc. plastics worn out but no big deal. well worth the $700 in my book. So here's where my problem lies, after putting the top end back together, i'm finding it super difficult to kick. before i put the head cap on, the piston moved up and down smoothly in the cylinder as i pushed down on the kick lever. as soon as i put the cap on and the spark plug in, it became almost impossible to kick. I stand on my dirt bike stand to give me leverage on the kick lever and put all 200lbs of myself on to the kicker and i've gotta give it a little bounce to get it to kick. When it does drop all i hear is the piston stop at the top of the cylinder like its got all the air compressed. I'll reset the kicker and drop down on it and it'll kinda drop or get hung up like the piston doesn't want to suck back down and when the piston finally gets low enough in the cylinder i can hear a thump of air out the carb. I tried kicking this thing for a half hour with the piston getting hung up because of the compression not wanting to let it go. At least thats what i think is going on. and when i get the piston to clear the intake, it finally releases the trapped air. As far as spark goes, i've got a ngk 8es or something like that. not sure off hand. I do know its not the R plug. spark was there, wasn't the strongest spark but not the weakest either. Any idea on what could be going on? I think my next step is to take the plug out and see how easy it'll kick with out the plug in it. Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.
  21. BTW, I'm new to two strokes, haven't had one since I was a kid and dad did all the work. Ok, so I've searched and not found what I'm looking for so figured I'd ask here. Recently picked up a 2000 yz250 that supposedly has a 295 or 300 big bore kit. It ran strong so I didn't fret too much over the little things. Paid $1500 and took it home. Drained the gear oil and it looked a bit odd to me. I refilled with Rotella, ran it for about 15 or so minutes out back. Drained and it looked the same. 😏 Could this be water getting into the oil? Read somewhere that it should look like this but seems odd. Any help would be appreciated!
  22. StepheYork

    Yz250 Clutch Not Disengaging

    Long time lurker, first post I have a 1998 yz250 that seems like the clutch won't disengage. I can start the bike in neutral but not with the clutch lever pulled in. If the bike is running, as soon as I pull in the clutch the bike stalls like it's in gear. The clutch pull doesn't feel really soft but not super stiff either. Bike seems to shift gears easily enough when off and pulling clutch in. I am thinking maybe the issue is with a grooved basket/inner hub, but I want to confirm this before I throw parts at it. Here is a pic of the basket/ hub. They don't seem THAT bad but looking for some other input. Also I wanted to know if the clutch basket nut is reverse threaded or not before I try to remove it. Thanks in advance! Tldr: bike stalls trying to go into gear, won't start with clutch held in. Is the problem grooved clutch basket? Also is clutch basket nut reverse threaded?
  23. What is your skill Level (be honest)? Intermediate. 2. What's your height & weight? 6,1 190 3. What year, make, & model of motorcycle are you coming from? And, what do you want the new bike to do better? 2006 crf450r, i love the 450 but the moto suspension is harsh in the woods. just looking for a better woods bike Hare scrambles, enduro's, single track bike. 4. What's your ballpark budget? around 8,000 to 9,000 maximum. 5. What types of terrain will you be riding? Single track, enduro type stuff and mostly harescrambles and single track. 6. Will you be racing or just play riding? both racing Harescrambles and riding single track with buddy's I think ive got my two bike's the husky te250 and the yz250. still open to other bikes. The only question i have for the husky guys is reliability and engine life of the te250. I cant find anything on this i just want a bike that will last years. The Yamaha is in the question because the reliability and the price of the bike over the husky. I'm happy to answer any more question's anyone may have to help with the bike choice. Thanks for the help.
  24. SAMCRF35

    2019 YZ250X Jetting

    I got my 19 YZ250X a few days ago, have been struggling with it to run right. First off it would not idle, now the idle screw is all the way in but hey it idles now, i don't think the screw should have to be all the way in for it to idle this calls for a leaner pilot correct? Next i'm not sure if it's me but right before she really starts singing there seems to be a bog? I'm aware the bikes need jetting right way, One guy on here has helped me a crap ton but i hate to keep bugging him. As for the jets and everything in the carb its all stock if that helps.
  25. Walker Richard

    Avgas/Maxima castor 927 separation

    my question is I am running Avgas Mobil1100LL with Maxima castor 927 at 28:1 in my 2018 yz250, My problem is at 58°F in the oil separated from the fuel leaving the oil to rest on the bottom of the fuel tank not knowing this until after my problem my bike ran crazy would not run without choke on, in the process of trying to get my bike started I started my bike with the choke on and it immediately revved up to 8000 RPM it scared me so I hit the kill switch the bike would not shut off finally after about seven seconds The bike finally died, my question is what types of oil are people running with Avgas because I do not want to run to this problem again.
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