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Found 10 results

  1. I have a 1974 G4TR 100 that is running really well but I'm still having a problem with it running lean. Plug is on the very light brown nearing white and I am getting a lean bog at higher rmps when loaded down. Is it not getting enough gas or is the oil pump not dumping enough oil in? I've set the oil pump to the richer side of the mark. Any suggestions would be appreciated cheers.
  2. 2003 XR 100 was sitting for about ten years, pulled from a friend's barn. Did the normal carb clean and got her to where she was running ok with stock jets and pipe except it would surge on idle. It wasn't excessive but definitely wasn't normal. Then I put a pro circuit T4 pipe on it and it started running a little rough so I decided to try to go back to stock settings. During this time I went as high as a 38 main and a 98 pilot. I decided to try to go back to stock settings and remove the pipe. Now I'm back to 95 pilot and 35 main and the bike idles high, runs rough, sputters when I twist the throttle and fouls plugs quickly. Is this an air/fuel screw deal? Or do I need to re-jet? Please help me get my stepdaughters bike to riding condition. Thanks in advance. CT
  3. Finally getting around to finishing up this project this winter. The bike started as a 1982 Honda XL100S. It had already been stripped of all electronics and battery and did not run. Replaced points and carb and got it running only to find out clutch was smoked and some of the clutch cover screws already stripped. Ended up putting on a cheap ebay carb and it inhaled a loose screw off the choke plate (not peened over as it should've been) and chewed up the valves and seats. So I pulled it all apart and had the frame, tank, and various parts powder-coated black. Swapped front end from a 2000 XR100R and used tapered bearings. Alloy mini high bars, mini levers, Acerbis headlight. I rebuilt the engine as follows: KG Clutch Factory HD springs and kevlar plates (replaced all clutch cover bolts with stainless allen bolts) Honda TrailBikes 58mm cylinder with bungs for oil cooler BBR 58mm small dome piston (120cc displacement) ShiftUp Spartan big valve head (28mm intake/23mm exhaust) Kitaco Stage 1 hollow core cam Keihin PZ27 carb (23mm slide) (going to try a Mikuni) UNI pod filter Moose magnetic oil drain plug EMGO HD ignition coil/NGK boot and plug I've still got the stock pipe on it if I want to ride it on the trails but I know its choking back the big valve head. Looking at a low pipe from an XR75 possibly. I'm also waiting on an ATOM ignition module to bypass the points and let it rev better hopefully. I have old stock steel wheels on right now but I have a set of XL hubs and BBR aluminum rims I need to have laced. I made the entire trials/tracker style seat using fiberglass for the pan and heavy backed vinyl for the cover. I'm going for an old school simple and reliable small woods and trails bike. I will post more pics later today when I get home.
  4. So I’m moving up from my 2001 Kx 100 and a guy wants to trade his 1995 Ktm 250 exc with me because he got it for his first bike and it was too much for him. We’re there any issues with this particular model? How will it compare to my kx 100? I know it will be much heavier and a lot taller and longer which I will need because my legs cramp up riding the little 100.
  5. Hi. I'm in a jam and hoping one of you have ran into this or just know your stuff on Mikuni pumper or accellerator pump carbs. I just purchased a 1987 Suzuki DR200. It's stock with the Mikuni 42A20 carburetor. From what I understand, the 42A21 and TM28SS are the same....any others, I am not sure. I have also seen it called a TM33-8012?? I KNOW mine is a 28mm bore though. The issue is I cannot afford to buy a new 42A20, they are very expensive. The carb was apart , in a bag, corroded, missing slow/pilot screw, and the big issue....someone drilled a hole in the bottom of bowl, of plunger cylinder? I have been unable to find any schematic or information with a part # for the bowl (float chamber as some call it). Is there any carburetor that the bowl will mount to this carburetor and allow me to use the carburetor as the accellerator pump is intended? I have been told to just put a diaphragm or cv carb on it, to but another style like is on Ebay & Amazon that has a half round/half flat slide...the oem is the complete flat style. Others have said the 86,87,88 (especially 87 for some reason) needs the AP for the bike to run correctly? If it will run just fine with cv carb, please let me know. There has to be a reason they used the pumper style and still do on some....I think I read they used the pumpers up to 2007? I have the carburetor clean and noticed there is a check valve under the brass port...spring & ball check valve but the spring is sideways. I think it needs to be straight up & down and can easily move it will tiny pick. Any information, part #s, input about this will greatly be appreciated. I hope I can find someone to sell me a bowl or another complete or mostly complete carb. The pilot jet that was missing has been ordered. I plan to try to fix the hole and try it out but wanted to find this information out. It's a lot of confusing info (like carburetor on Ebay saying it will fit but when you look at description it skips the 87 model or starts at 1996 & newer?), I have downloaded a diagram with 42A20 part #s as well as factory specs of it. Thanks in advance.
  6. I have a 2007 ktm 105 sx and I accidentally cold seized it a while back so I rebuilt the top end and now it won't start anymore. I cleaned the carburetor, still won't start. I've tried and checked everything, it has plenty of spark (brand new plug, i set the gap correctly), it has 110 psi compression (requires 90 psi to run), and I know that the fuel is fine because I just mixed it myself to the proper ratio (32:1). Does anyone know why on earth I can't get my bike to start!?!? Any ideas to try, anything finicky about this year model? Thanks in advance for any replies
  7. Trying to identify the model year of this old Kawasaki G4TR enduro. The VIN and title match and say it”s a ‘71. BUT, everything about the frame says it definitely is NOT a’71. Mainly how the tank mounts. My frame has the large round rubber tank supports at the front of the tank and a J-hook at the back for a rubber strap. 1971 tanks bolted on in the front and back. I need to get a tank that fits this frame as the one that came with it is from a 1975 90cc model (M1B). Can any vintage Kawasaki enduro gurus out there help?
  8. Hi all, I'm a total noob to fixing vintage bikes and could use a hand if anyone has any knowledge they could share about timing for my 1975 XL100. I recently purchased it from a guy and the bike ran. After riding it around for about an hour the bike would not idle. I checked out the plug, replaced it and it would run again for about an hour. I thought maybe I got a bad plug and did this a third time before I finally accepted that there was a problem. I have gone though quite a bit of this bike at this point. I have replaced the rectifier, the coil, and the condenser (The points look good). I have found a few electrical problems mostly in the way of corroded connections and have replaced them to ensure that I am getting proper spark and that the charging system is functional. I replaced the battery. I replaced the carburetor, because I couldn't get the stock carburetor to idle properly not matter how I adjusted it. Finally after all of this I could get the bike to idle properly, but I couldn't get the bike to allow for the throttle to be opened beyond 1/4. I assumed this was likely a lean mixture. I enriched the mixture with the jet needle, no help. I tried spaying starter fluid into the air intake to prove or disprove that I had a lean condition. Starter fluid did not resolve the problem. I read somewhere that sometimes the centrifugal advancer will get stuck and cause this sort of problem, so I took off the points plate and took a look at it. The advancer seems to be freely moving, though I admit I wouldn't know if it is free enough to work. I then put the points plate back on. I have looked at the timing and feel reasonably confident that the timing was right. I later read that sometime old engines need to have their timing advanced beyond factory specs. I advanced mine by a degree-ish. Now I can get to 100% throttle for anything below about 5000RPM without issue. Anything above 5000 RPM and it sputters, doesn't matter the throttle opening. Anyone have any idea what I am up against? Should I advance the timing further? Is my centrifugal advancer broken? Can I test it? I'm at a loss at this point and could really use some help. I really appreciate any advice!
  9. Made a little video of me riding some new trails we discovered, I had no clue where I was going. But I found out a way to ride a pretty fun loop to practice for woods races on. Check the video out, feedback is appreciated
  10. I was riding my crf a couple of months ago and the chain kept falling off. When the chain fell off after about the 10th time, it wouldnt start after. When I got back I took off the left side engine cover and the case saver was cracked off. I replaced the spark plug and it still isnt getting spark.
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