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1998 yz400f. Just pulled kickshaft to replace a couple guides. And put a new oem basket inner and outer in reusing plates to get a couple more rides in before teardown. After assembly I have no gears and clutch is super easy to pull almost no resistance. And with it running if I put into gear it jumps about an inch the acts like it's in neutral
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I recently purchased a 2004 crf250x and my main goal was to get it street legal so I can deliver for uber eats and doordash, also I would like a set of supermoto wheels and tires, what would be the best choice and place to buy and how much am I looking at, also what would be the closest to supermoto tires on standard wheels?
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Hi all, Trying to find the correct Inside Diameter for the fuel supply line. Seems like the local auto parts store has either a bit larger or smaller. I am swapping out my petcock and want a couple feet to drain tank with, Thanks
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Hi guys i have some questions and would appreciate any help you guys may have. I have a 1998 yz 250 ive had for a few years thats been in the famliy for awile. I am doing a ground up redo on it this winter. Im geting a used frame because the one i have dosent have a title so i figured wile im at it ill get a 1998/1997 wr 250 frame so i can make it street legal. I know the 98 wr 250 wasent introduced in the us but the 97 was and the yz 250 is the same bike from 96 to 98. So my question is are the wr 250s the same ? Could i find a 97 wr250 frame and swap everything from my 98 yz 250 to it ? I wont realy ride it on the street much considering its not the best bike for commuting (by far) lol, but i figure if im geting another frame with a title miswell be able to throw my street tires on it and rip some twistes with it if i want to. Thanks for any help.
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Hey folks, I want to start a thread that is only for jetting setups. There doesn't seem to be anything out there that has the basic info without 10 million opinions of what oil to run, what timing to run, thread jacking etc... I personally ride in a lot of different altitudes and would like some input. I am also going to try to build a couple comprehensive charts on this if I get enough useful info. Please keep postings brief and basic, and I'm not looking for a bunch of weird opinions here Just looking for setups that people find to work well for them. Cheers!!! Please list: Year: Altitude: Temperature: Type of riding: Timing setup: Pipe: Mix ratio: Pilot: Air Screw setting: Main: Needle Type: Needle Clip Position: Here's mine: Year: 2005 Altitude: 10000 ft Temperature: 70F Type of riding: Tight single track Timing setup: 1 degree retarded Pipe: Stock Mix ratio: 32:1 Pilot: 45 Air Screw setting: 1.5 out Main: 168 Needle Type: N3EW Needle Clip Position: 1
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Ive got a prosthetic left leg and really bad knees im trying to find all the leg room possible this is what i was able to rough mock up, longer bolts and 1" worth a spacer. Any better ideas? I would still benifit from even more leg room
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I have a 2015 wr250f with about 250 to 270 hours on it and it leaks small amounts of oil and I can't figure out where. The oil drain threads have been re threaded from it stripping taking the drain bolt out (don't know how it happened). After it was fixed it never leaked and after a couple of months it started to leak but didnt really bother me cause it was very small amounts of oil, so I put a washer with a rubber seal on the drain bolt to try and get the leaking to stop and it still leaks and it is starting to get irritating from the mess it makes, but I don't know if it leaks from the drain bolt or some where else any suggestions would be helpful.
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Just had my hona crf250x 2006 on its side whilst I was having a look at its clutch plates and started it and oil was dribbling down when riding, could this be some type of oil overflow? U can't really see it in the picture because I wiped it but it was flowing on that side of the engine any help?
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I have yet to find anyone with a mostly stock can am DS 450 with the fmf programmer. Is there anyone who can help me with mild program setting. I know I sound a little novice. This is my first fuel injection bike. I understand how the programer works I just want to know Wich settings are appropriate. I can't be the only one on here that has this bike configuration.
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Hi all, I’m new to thumpertalk but I’ve been reading for a while. I have a drz400 with charging issues. If I charge the battery overnight it will last 24hours max, the bike doesn’t seem to be charging it. It will start first time when I bump it. I’ve been looking at the free power mod, will this be effective under my circumstances?
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Hi, I bought a fender eliminator for my 2020 drz400sm and I have everything wired up the way the instructions said to but my blinkers are giving me grief. The blinkers work but flash very fast as if i have a blinker out, ill attach pictures of what I have hooked up, there are 2 wires from the blinkers I have unused. Any help us greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Newly installed 2012 CRF450x swingarm with all new bushings. After installation I noticed significant side to side movement, Ive poured over the manual and exploded view drawings and can find no mention of this movement or shims/washers that would minimize it. This movement is without the linkage installed, so maybe the linkage is supposed to take this slop out. So, could someone please let me know if this is normal or not.... Thank you in advance for your assistance Here is a video.....
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Hi guys, have just taken delivery of a new 2022 350 EXC-F and are looking for any tips for setting it up. I have a skid plate on, with radiator guards and fork gaiters ordered. Don't like the self-rising kickstand and assume that can be fixed with a spring removal or repositioning? I'll be riding it in the Pacific islands where fuel quality is suspect; so have a filter sock for the tank and an after-market inline filter to catch any nasties before they reach the injectors. Any other tips would be much appreciated; e.g. running in, things to watch for etc.
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In my searches I didn't see too much about anyone who has tried both of these options. I tried the jd jetting kit first and did some fiddling and got the bike to run good, seemEd pretty clean. I also lowered the float level slightly and did jd jettings overflow tube loop to try and minimize lost fuel on the ground. Then I bought a lectron hv 38mm carb and it was considerably better than the mikuni with a jd jetting kit. There was a big boost in low end torque that is super smooth. The bike sounds better. Automatically adjusts for altitude. Starts great. And I get considerably better fuel economy (about 15 or 20 percent better). My conclusion having used both products is that the jd jetting kit will make your bike run well and be much more rideable than the terrible stock jetting. The jd kit is also much cheaper. The lectron carb will make your bike run amazing, give a big boost in rideable smooth low end torque. Also a big boost in fuel economy over the mikuni with jd jetting. The bike is really really good with a lectron. It's like fuel injection that is simpler, lighter, and available in North America.
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I haven't been able to push the travel rings to the lugs on the 501 in 130hrs. The other day I was flying out to flat in 3rd gear and finally experienced a firm bottom. But not a typical clunk. The rings are still 1.5" away from the lugs. '20 and '21 didn't behave like that. Do these have rubber bump stops inside?
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I have 02 rm 125 I bought a year or two ago. Had an over flowing carb recently and decided to rebuild it. At that time I bought the jd jet kit as I wasn’t totally happy the spooge it was producing and some of the fat spots in rev range. Any case, when I did the rebuild I replaced the a/s as the one was worn and wallowed at the edges of the screw. I didn’t realize there was supposed to be a spring behind it and it fell out during or some point during the 125 dream race. Checked the carb and the surfaces weren’t dirty as if it had been sucking dirt. But when I checked the piston i found the front of the crown looked like this. Cylinder wasn’t scored either and rod has in spec play. Anybody have any idea if the a/s falling int out could make it go lean enough to do this? -
Looking for a good starting point for my 125 (Sea Level), I have the PWK 38 JD kit , FMF Fatty and Turbine Core , V-force , mild de-restriction air box The carb/Kit is used from a KTM 250 , came with the complete kit , I think , 2 needles , one red not installed and the needle installed no color , red has 2 ring/marking below the clip and the other only 1 ring/marking below the clip , I'm assuming this is the blue needle , maybe the color wore off. Has a #7 slide any help greatly appreciated
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Hey whats up guys, got some questions about a problem im having with my 1988 fzr 1000. Problem: battery dosent hold a charge and once i ride it for a few minutes it dosent idle and i have to rev it to keep it running. Once i charge the battery it starts up and idles till i ride it for a few minutes then it drains the battery again then it wont idle again. Is this the fectifier ? From some research ive done i gues this is a common problem on this bike. Also would cause it to run rough at higher rpms?? Because frome 6k to 8k it studders a bit, not a bog but kinda of studders thru that rpm range. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
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Hi Got a crf250 2013 fuel injection. Got a problem bike starts and runs cold for a about 30 seconds then won't start again. Have spark, fuel pump works injector works. It's like something is telling it to lean out.
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2020 DRZ400s Mod List: Power: hot cams 3x3 Airbox Mod FCR 39 MX Carburetor FMF 04 Exhaust FMF Powerbomb Header JD Jet Kit 15/47 Gearing Tusk Heavy Duty Clutch / Springs Tires: Tusk D Sports 130/90-18 90/90-21 set Suspension: Racetech Front .54 kg Springs Racetech Rear Spring 6.6kg (Sprung for a ~200lb rider) Ergonomics: Seat Concepts Low Seat (1" lower seat height) Tusk 3/4" Bar risers Renthal RC High Bars IMS Rally Foot Pegs Moto Dash MD 4.1 Ignition Relocation and USB Charger Body: Safari 18L Tank (~5 gallons) Acerbis White/Yellow Plastics set Flatland Racing Radiator Guards Flatland Racing Bash Plate CRC Case Savers Cycra Probend Handguards Bajaworks Rallye Windshield 12'o Clock Labs Fender Eliminator and it doesn’t end there. I got new clutch and brake lever on the way. It never seems to end. I bought this bike recently with all these mods, I use to have a Honda CRF 250L so not use to the carb thing but I will learn. I’m hoping if I run into any issues I can get help here.
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Looking for trails in the NE area, as much dirt as possible to get me from PA up to the northern tip of Maine...looking to camp along the trail....and hit some little towns along the way for supplies and fuel. Any suggestions, advice and knowledge would be very helpful thanks! p.s. light ADV setup DRZ400s
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So been riding my other bike witch I hate no power not even loud like a 2stoke haha the hurn sounds cool I guess but my ktm200mxc 2 stock the shop says I have no spark what do I need for that to make it run cuz I put in a spark plug I thought that would fix it they said something about a coil but like idk we’re or witch one to order
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hi guys, im rebuilding my drz400 engine and ive heard that your cylinder and piston need to be matched, i am debating getting my old cylinder re-plated or buying a new one, if i was to buy a stock 90mm cylinder would it work with my piston? (a brand new wiseco, measuring 89.96mm)
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Anyone have a feel for where Suzuki is at on there late model DRs as far as the known factory flaws (loctite fixes)? Picked up a 19 with 500 miles on it but I’ve never had one so new. I’ve heard mumblings that some of the issues were resolved in the late 2000’s but I’m not sure if that was true or if it was just lazy people who didn’t want to take the time to make it right trying to feel better about the reliability of there bike. Any help or advice would be great. The bike is a clean slate and I’m ready to get my hands dirty.
