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Found 6 results

  1. I recently purchased a 1972 Kawasaki F7 175cc from a friend. The bike sat in a barn for 4 years until I happened to stumble upon it. So its tinker time. Here is what I was told: - The gas tank leaks. - The oil pump needs a banjo bolt. - Installed a new piston. (4 years ago) So after some quarentine craziness, the gas tank is rust free, sealed and painted and the oil hose/pump has a banjo bolt plugged in her. So my next step was to "clean the carb". Rather than try and salvage parts, I decided to just buy a rebuild kit for the 1972 Kawasaki F7 175cc (keep in mind this is my first engine work, first time even seeing a 2 stroke). After purchasing a manual I believe I put the carb back together correctly, with some trials of course. But I was stoked because thought I was finished. I filled up the gas tank to find that not only was my petcock leaking fuel (vaccum vs. manual problems) but also out of my carburator and my fuel pump diaphragm, it as it has also been called (Orphase, Drain, Front Right Engine Fuel Drain thing, High Risk Leaking Drain). After thorough research I am now familiar with a rotary valve engine and vaccume pressure and this P.I.T.A. orphase. @thejunkman has incredible information about this on his website that helped a noobie like me... If you have made it this far here is where I am at and where I need help: The Petcock - Vacuum to Manual Conversion: I am currently converting my petcock from vaccum to manual. I bought a rubber stopper to fit into the hole of the case where the vaccum tube goes. My question is do I need to do anything special to the plug the carb? (If you have pics of your carb and hoses I would greatly appreciate them.) Sealing The Fuel Drain Diaphram: The time to stop the vaccuum leak amd all my gas coming out has come. When I took it apart there was a small pinky nail sized puncture in the diaphragm paper itself. I will use RVT sealant to stop the hole but is there a good way to do this. Please share tips/tricks. The Carb I bought a copper washer that is coming in the mail to fit around this "suspect leaky banjo bolt"... but could it be anything else. I have read that it could be my floats and needle valve but am not sure how to check to see if it is specifically. I have a new gasket on the carb along with new parts that typically come in a carb kit. This is the only carb info I have to go off of. The carb just sits on this black threaded tube basically. It kind of wobbles on it though and it slightly worries me after seeing them clamped down in other videos. Is this how they normally are for bikes this old I will post post of how it looks/ sits later. There is one other problem that involves the shifting pedal but I'll save that for another post. I appreciate you all for reading, commenting, and following. All of your advice is welcome. This is my first build so I'm hungry to learn, scared to mess up, and ready for all the in betweens.
  2. Just got my 1972 Honda XL250 back up and running after a fresh cylinder, piston and rings. I replaced the intake gasket and have a new Chinese 1979 carb all hooked up. Bike usually starts first kick when cold but after I run it a little bit it will either shut down when getting low RPMs when taking off (like I stalled it but it just wants to die), or ill turn it off and go to kick it over 20 seconds later but it wont have it unless its been sitting a couple minutes or so. Choke or no choke, i usually take the plug out and its dry then put it back in and it fires right up. Carb issue? I have another little carb without a return cable but I like using the new one I bought because it has a return cable. I tried turning the carb air/fuel mixture screw a turn or two in both directions and running it like that but no difference, really. I did die on a mountain and took the plug out the other day and it seemed to maybe have a weak looking spark but it was sunny out and I wasnt sure. have at me!
  3. Been struggling with this one for a while. 1972 Honda xl250 has a knocking sound and I can’t figure out what it is. Was told to check out the top end and check the rocker arms but they seem pretty solid. The bike only has 2,000 miles on it but it’s been problem after problem. runs good though. Lots of fun. I have a longer video if you want to hear it. fun bike though!
  4. I just had my first go at adjusting the valve clearance on my 1972 Honda xl250 and I think there's too much tappet noise. What do you think? I've linked a video of it running and want to get an opinion before pulling the tank off again. This is the first time running since having it almost entirely apart. Thanks.
  5. Hi, I'm getting ready to put my right and left engine crankcase covers back on my 1972 Honda XL250 with fresh OEM gaskets. I've heard both ways, so I wanted to put this out to the group: should I use a bit of Hondabond, or not, when I put the covers on? None of my shop manuals mention Hondabond, but they are often lacking detail. If I use the Hondabond, how much, just a very thin line along the entire sealing surface? Both sides of the gasket? Thanks for the info and advice.
  6. My 1972 Honda xl 250 rarely kicks over. The ratchet system just keeps missing and I work up a sweat to get her to start. I pulled the Kick starter spindle out expecting missing teeth but it doesn’t look that bad.. I messed with it and put it back in but it’s still clicking most of the time. that ratchet system uses rounded grooves and it doesn’t look too promising. Can I use a different spindle from a newer or different style bike??? I can’t seem to find the xl 250 spindle anywhere and I don’t want another used one necessarily. What can I do!! The bike runs great but I just look like an idiot when it just keeps clicking inside the case.
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