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Showing results for tags '1980'.
Found 14 results
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New here. I'm in Australia and have a 1980 XT250, only 4300km on the clock, just been tidying it up and plan to get it back on the road. It starts ok and runs well I put a new carby kit in and gave it a good clean out. The problem that I'm having is the idle rpm keeps changing. I'll get it idling at about 1000rpm, go for a lap around the paddock and it might be idling at 1500rpm. One time it even went up to 2100rpm just sitting there. Sometimes it slowly comes back to where I set it or slower It's just about different every time. I pulled the carby apart again today to double check the slide and the linkages that work the slide. Every thing is working freely with no slop in the linkages. It's still doing the same. While it was running I've checked that the throttle shaft had fully returned and it has, there's a pretty hefty return spring on it. I was wondering if the float may be not as floaty as it was in 1980 and is upsetting things. I seem to remember fiddling with the idle adjuster before so I'm pretty sure it's not something new. Any suggestions or opinions would be appreciated.
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So, I'm new to this and dirt bikes in general. I did small engine repair in high school, so I'm not full on retarded in that respect. But I digress. My dad recently have me a 1980 Honda XL250s Dual sport bike. It's got the 6v system, and goofy 23" wheel. When I got it, it had sat for a couple years, but nonetheless, I had it running in no time. Then a month later, it was fine tuned with the correct filter, carb rebuild, etc. So it runs fine, no problems there. So now I'm onto electrical; blinkers, horn, things to make it road legal. So after I bought a brand new 6v battery, charged it, I was going through the lights. Headlight runs off stator, so that's fine, tail light runs off both, that's fine, turn signal switches are good, but lights stay solid. Horn switch doesn't work, but I haven't tested the horn itself. Most instrument lights work, but there may be an issue because I used LEDs for that, and when I hit the turn signal, the light comes on, but shuts off neutral light. Today I got all 4 signals to light up, after I grounded the rear lights. But now they don't come on with just the switch on. Only when the bike runs. And I'm only getting 3v at the battery when it's running. I feel like I just made it worse when I "fixed" the rear turn signals. And to make things worse, my 6v trickle charger doesn't work anymore.
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Hello everyone, so i just replaced the clutch plates in my rm100 i noticed there was one extra metal plate at the back that shouldn't be there, anyway after putting everything back together and taking it for a ride as soon as it gets into powerband the bike just revs to the moon and doesn't go anywhere is there anything i should have checked/replaced?. theatrically if the clutch springs were worn and not as tight as they should be would it make sense that someone would put an extra metal plate at the back to space out the clutch plates and have more tension on the springs to avoid replacing them?. any help would be appreciated cheers
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Sooo I have a old 1980 Honda xr200 I got from my wife’s family. I’ve had it for a few years but it was at my parents for a while until we moved into a house. So I just got it back...I knew it was sitting for a while so I lightly cleaned the carb and got it running (not great, but running). It wouldn’t run choked. So I took the carburetor apart and cleaned the shit out of the pilot jet, it was clogged. I put the thing back together and now I can’t get the damn thing to even start. It has a brand new spark plug I just put in and just did an oil change. What could it be. This is my first bike and am learning as I go.
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Hi yall I've got a technical question about the ignition boxes for period Suzuki DR400s. I recently purchased a non running 1980 model for 200$, the bike was complete but honestly it was pretty rough. The previous owner had hooked up a car coil and grafted on a 99 RM250 ignition box. He claimed it ran like that too. I couldn't get it to fire as it was (CDI looked all corroded), so I ordered a stock coil and was looking for a stock '80 CDI.. apparently theyre kinda rare / pricy. I was wondering what my other options could be. I'm not sure if there are aftermarket units that will work? maybe a cdi from a similar bore 4 stroke? The wiring isn't too complicated as its a base offroad model. Any help is appreciated!
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Hi, I recently bought a 1980 YZ125. The previous owner got it on barter for a job he did, said it had been sitting for quite a while. He said he put in fresh gas mix and said it fired right up. Rode it around for a few minutes then shut it down and put it up for sale. Now he did call me on my way there to tell me he tried starting it again and it wouldn't start. He quickly installed a new spark plug an still wouldn't start. I really had no reason to believe he was lieing about it running and I'm fairly mechanically inclined and wanted it so I bought it. Now I have it and I can't get it started. LOL. I checked the spark by laying the plug threads on a head fin, kicked it over, nice spark, definitely a new spark plug. I checked the compression, 165psi. I drained the tank and put new fuel in it (I think he left the old fuel in it, smelled really bad) I cleaned the carb (it really wasn't very dirty or gummy although the float needle was sticking a bit) changed the fuel filter, and tried again. Nothing. Not even a pop. I pulled up the choke lever, checked the petcock was open, I could see the new fuel filter fill with fuel, full throttle and kicked it over 10x's or more. Nothing. I pulled the spark plug expecting to see it soaking wet from flooding and it was bone dry! So I sprayed starter fluid right in the cylinder and kicked it over again several times and nothing. Didn't even pop once. Why would a 2-stroke with good compression, good spark, not even try to run on starter fluid? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi I have a 1980 Gs250t that I restored last summer after riding if I try to start it warm it get really weak , and we have to pop start it. A brand new starter cost 400 dollars to buy, and I cant get the armature new, I tried with little luck to find an aftermarket replacement. I want to know how do I test the starter, I already replaced the brushes.
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Did kawasaki use asbestos in brake shoes during 1980 on the kdx 250 and 400s?
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Hi, I am currently restoring a 1980 Suzuki Gs250T. I am just finishing up my build , I am replacing the brake pads and greasing the wheel bearings. I had bought some brake shoes but they were counterfeit. So I was on EBay and I found some ferodo brake shoes. I know that these are good brake parts, but with all good things come the bad knock offs. Is there anyway I can tell if these are real? The top picture is of the ferodo parts. The bottom is of the OEM (right) and knock offs (left). Thanks for your help.
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I bought a 1980 Yamaha XT 250. It started first kick. I let it sit for a week then painted it and now it will not start. I I tried cleaning the carb but still no start. I kick it and kick it and the carb bowl just gets flooded (spills over)... I have to tap on it to stop and then drain it. I have the manual but very little experience working on motorcycles. Also can anybody tell me what position (up or down) is the run position on the 1980 xt250 kill switch? Also which port does the petcock fuel hose go to on the carburetor?? Help. I can send pictures if necessary.
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Looking for help with finding a source coil for a 1980 Yamaha MX175 Part# 3M2-85512-20 I have been looking for months and have had zero luck on finding one. Does anyone know if there are any other compatible Source coils that would work with out burning up the CDI?
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Hey there, I recently bought a 1979 Suzuki PE250 in pretty good condition for its age I'd say.However the fork seals are leaking and after struggling for a few days to get the fork caps open(they were seized) I have now come to a new problem. The Dust seal Holder seems to be stuck, in the shop manual it mentions some sort of special tool for removing the fork seal but I'm not sure what exactly it would do.The thing seems like it should just unscrew. I've tried whacking it with a screw driver and a hammer and I had some minor progress but its painfully slow so I was wondering if any of you vintage motorcycle wizards would be able to enlighten me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.👍
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So I have a 1982 Honda xr200r that was running. Long story short, it was ran without oil and while riding, it went dead. Tore it down rebuilt it. With new OEM piston, rings, and cam. I've gotten it back in time. But here is where my problem is. The intake valve is not seating all the way and it's causing air to come back out of the intake. The cam lobes are down at TDC. Checked the valve/ tappet clearance. I've looked at prices for new valves. My wallet isn't my friend right now, but before I spend the money on new ones. I want to know if you can get valve shims to fit. Because there is not a push rod on these motors like a lawnmower I can't just use the same kind of valve cap type shim.. I don't know if that is the correct name for it but I'm sure you get the point. So the question is, do they make shims that work with the xr200r motors? Anyone know of another thing I've over looked? I feel like I've pulled a stupid and over looked something.
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Will an 1981 kdx 420 expansion pipe fit on a my 1980 Kdx 400? I cant find any kdx400 parts out there for resale likely due to it being a 2 year bike. Or are there any aftermarket expansion pipes out there that would fit on the 400?
