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Showing results for tags '1998'.
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So I am currently working on a 1997 CR125 and plan to make a full race build on it. But I have been noticing that there are not very many aftermarket parts the biggest being the plastics and graphics for it due to the frame,tank,sub frame, etc. I was wondering if its possible to put that engine into a CR125 frame anywhere from 98-07 and how hard that would be to do. I have a welder but I am not confident enough to weld new motor mounts. If you guys could help me out with this that would be great.
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Ok so i know there aren't many snowmobile guys on here but its more so an motor based problem, and their are lots of motor experts on this. So i have a 1998 polaris 488 indy super sport. Its a 2 cylinder 2 stroke motor(air cooled), no power valve system and about as basic as it gets. I got the sled not-running for free and the compression was too low to start, i wanted to keep it cheap so i put new rings in it and now the compression is back to where it should be. After the rebuild it fired right up and the first time i took it through the yard it barely had enough power to make it around. I ended up thinning out the gas mixture with the needle and clip in both carburetors, and it decided to run very well. I took it up and down the yard a few times and it ran perfectly. I had it running perfect for about 45 minutes and then i parked it. i came back a week later, i was about 10 minutes into my ride when it started bogging and running like crap again. Its hard to describe how it runs but i will attach a video to demonstrate. It is very boggy at low rpm, very little throttle response. But if you let the rpms rise and get to powerband, it sounds like it should and has good throttle response. keep in mind this is in a neutral position. it will not idle without me applying little pressure to the throttle and even then it runs boggy. When you try and drive the sled here is what happens, first it bogs down until you hit medium rpm range, then it hit power band and speeds up for about 5 seconds, then if you keep holding the throttle it bogs down until it will eventually kill. It reaches close to max rpm and powerband is decent. If you don't get it started right away it eventually floods itself, it will also not run or start with the choke on. I've ridden many of these sleds with the identical motor so i have an idea of how they are supposed to run. I'm just looking for a head start of what might be wrong so i don't throw unnecessary parts on it. here are the things i have done with it since then: Cleaned the carbs, adjusted fuel/air screw, cleaned fuel pump, new rings/seals/oil lines and filters/ spark plugs are brand new and gapped Here is what i suspect is wrong: To much gas is getting to it, reason being is i can see gas actually shoot backwards out of the carbs sometimes, wont start with choke Let me know if you need more info or you have an idea, Thank you I can’t put the video on this apparently but if you want it I can dm it*
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Was wondering if anybody knew a place I could get a petcock that has reserve for my 1998 Honda cr125 looking to do hare scrambles and want reserve for if I run out of gas on the trail somewhere
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I have a 98 cr500. Looking for another rear wheel to keep set up with a paddle. Found an xr600 wheel for sale from the same year. My question is will the xr rear wheel for the cr? Or even fit with just a bearing change? Thanks for the help
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I was wondering if there were any aftermarket big bores or parts for the 1998 KE 100 because I just picked one up for $325!!! All responses appreciatwd
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Ignore my previous post on this topic. I just acquired a 1998 kx250 roller that just needs a motor. Does anyone know what year motors will bolt right in with no issues? Also I noticed there’s a wiring harness on the carb. Can someone enlighten me on what this is for?
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Hello, I got a XLR 200 from 1998 and my rear shock gave up. I'm looking for a new one but only found the Hagon ones. As I'm living in Nepal shipping is pretty expensive (30%tax!) I wonder if anyone knows if any other shock would fit this bike? From hole to hole its a bit above 13 inch. A friend visits from the USA soon so anything from there he could bring, if anyone knows. Any tips are appreciated! Cheers
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I’ve got a 1998 kx125 that I got rebuilt and put a brand new 38mm carb on it with 160 main and 40 pilot jets in it, I tried putting 32-1 premix in it and I’ve moved the needle up and down in every spot and I’ve got this really bad hesitation/bog right at 1/4 throttle, if you slowly get into it it will rev all the way out but as soon as you let off and crack the throttle it will bog! it will completely die if you hold it in the bog to long, bike will idle great and will run better on choke, the bike will run like crap without the choke on, it’s got carbon fiber reeds and an FMF shorty silencer, I’ve tried both a 8 and 9 spark plug as well, also tried the float in a few different positions, bike has good compression and will start 1 kick every time, I’m at a complete loss as I’ve been trying to figure this out for 2 weeks now, the boot going from the carb to the reeds does have some small cracks and is alittle warn around the clamp, anything will help thank you!
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So, I have a 1998 Yamaha yz80, and it's had a lot of hours on the top end, so it's time for a rebuild. I have a neighbor who is going to help me with it, so i havent taken it apart yet. I'm trying to figure if my bike needs a whole new piston kit, or a gasket kit, or does it need new reeds? So its lost compression. Way less then what it used to be before. The bike is really hard to start, and it fouls my plugs like none other. It doesen't have too much of a power loss, although, the powerband has become weaker. I just want my bike to be running like how it used to be, and I don't want to spend a lot of money on it. It will start sometimes, but most of the time, it will only bumpstart. I appreciate you viewing this, now, so let me know of what I need.
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Hello all, first post here. First time rider too. Just bought this 98 YZ400f. Not the proudest owner at the moment but we’ll see. Got it from a friend for $700 (way to much for a possibly blown bike now I realize) . Oh well. Issue is the Kickstart won’t cycle through. Even previous owner, an avid rider, who owned the bike when it was running, couldn’t kick it through. So I’m thinking it’s bad but how bad is the question . Seized piston, seized crankshaft, or Kickstarter axles and gears that whole mechanism broken?. Anybody have the proper steps in diagnosis and troubleshooting this . I saw an thread that said the kickstart comes off and you can try to rotate the crankshaft and if it moves it could be something else. Just starting to dive into this issue. Kinda want to fix this thing, might just buy a whole new engine, might try to save this one. Kinda going the cheapest /easy route if possible . Found a bottom end on eBay for 300. But I’d like to TS this engine first to see if it’s something simple . Would really appreciate the help guys!! Peace
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I just purchased a 1998 WR400F that he says has a 426 kit in it. Got a really good deal on the bike since he said it needs the valves adjusted. This is my first Yamaha and first 4 stroke bike so I have a couple questions. The seller said that when you are lugging it through the woods trail riding the bike will act like it is flooding out once it gets hot. Let it cool and your off again. He said if you ride it down the road its fine because it stays cool. Does this sound like valve adjustments? Hopefully some one can steer me in the right direction. Thank you
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I have a 1997 or 1998 Yamaha RT 180 and I was wondering if there were any mods I could do to get more power and a higher top speed, also... Can I put a aftermarket pipe on it All Reccomendations Appreciated!! Jared
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I own a 1998 Honda XR100R and I've noticed that fuel pours out the overflow when I revv the engine, it also doesn't require any choke to start it cold. I have the carburetor apart at the moment. I'm wondering if the fuel is related to float level and I also heard somewhere that being able to start with no choke cold means the fuel mixture is too rich? Hown do I fix these issues??
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i have a 1998 kx250 and am finding it difficult to find a chrome expansion chamber and a matching exhaust..... any recommendations or other year model exhausts that would fit mine.... for examplethe 1999-2002 kx 250 exhausts are the kind i would want to use but im not sure if it would fit or not. -
Hey guys I have a choice. I can buy this 1998 kx250 which was nicely restored this winter and freshly rebuilt in near showroom condition for 2800. or i can buy this 2000 yz250 that could use a wash but it has been rebuilt with sub 1 hour on the bike. Both sellers are selling due to having multiple bikes and not riding them enough to justify keeping them. is there any big problems with either of these bikes? I don't exactly need all the power of a 250 2 stroke but it shouldn't hurt. I'm 6 5, 16, and 170 lbs. i had a ttr250 which was a bit small for me and an 81 yz125 that fit me well, another question is which bike is set up for taller guys. i usually only ride trails but am hoping to start moving towards motocross soon. anything helps, thanks.
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I am restoring a 1998 yz125. It has talon hubs and excel wheels. The rear has a broken spike and cracked rim and needs to be replaced. Good luck finding a use one. In 1999 and newer bikes Yamaha changed the axle diameter from 20mm to 22mm. So unfortunately I can’t just buy a replacement complete wheel. So I looked into respoking the hub and contacted talon for the spoke specs and here is what I got. “rears are 214mm8g and 217mm8g with 8G nipples.” These are also hard to find. If you have a link please send. This leads me to my last question. Is there any possible way to buy a 99+ axle, bearings, etc. so I can switch to a newer wheel and eliminate this discontinued axle size problem?
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Hello ran into a new issue. Got my bike out to start after sitting all winter. Finally got it started and won’t seem to idle figured bad gas. But went to go down to road put it into first and it stalled went to put it in neutral and just keep skipping right past everytime and I’ve never had an issue with it before. Tried with it running and off and no difference. The neutral indicator light doesn’t even flash like I’m skipping by it. Really odd but makes it hard to start it and keep it idling. Any input would be appreciated
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I recently picked up a 2002 yz426f for cheap however it’s missing all of the exterior oil lines... are the oil lines all compatible on this bike from 1998 to 2004?
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Hey Thumpertalk, new dirt bike owner and first time poster here. I've got a fair amount of experience working on cars, and some experience working in motorcycles, but changing this clutch cable is giving me a fit. I must be missing something? Model and year: 1998 YZ250 (I was told at purchase) Maybe I'm missing something obvious, but I need a new clutch cable. I undid a 10mm bolt holding on the clutch lever, slid it out, and removed the end of the clutch cable (looks like a little cylinder). I cannot see how to get the end of the cable through the perch(?), it doesn't seem to fit. I don't think this is an OEM clutch set up, or it's a different year than I think. I have seen a few '98 YZ250s on YouTube, but haven't seen a clutch set up like this. Any suggestions? I attached an image so you can see what I'm looking at.
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Looking for a skid plate for my 1998 cr125 and can’t find anything that will fit my cr125 everything I look at says it won’t fit I was wondering if anybody knew a place I could get a skid plate of if I would have to fabricate one myself
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Hello people, First of all, sorry for my poor English. My name is Lucas, I'm from Argentina and i bought a year ago a Yamaha YZ125 1998. Recently i had a problem with my clutch and i have to replace some parts. The problem is i cannot find the pressure plate for my model (PN: 4EX-16351-00-00) and i was wondering if the later models plate (PN: 5HD-16351-00) can work on my bike... At look it seems to be exactly the same, but i doubt it, so maybe anyone know and can confirm if works or not. Also I cannot find the screws with washer (PN: 90159-06016-00), that would be much a difference or be risky to just assembly it with screws from a grocery or something? Remember the main problem is I cannot find the OEM parts, not I don't want to... I'm just trying to find the best solution without making damage to my bike. Thank you so much in advance, I really appreciate it.
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Hi All, I have recently been given a 1998 KTM 250SX which needs a fair bit of work to it, including: New Wheels - both have cracks Full Engine Rebuild - scored cylinder from piston circlips New plastics needed as all badly sun damaged. Now this is my first KTM, as I have always been a Yamaha and Honda 4 stroke guy, but given that the bike currently owes me nothing, I am keen to get it going, regardless of age, and enjoy riding it. I’m out in the Middle East, so riding will be entirely sand tracks and open desert rides. Can those who who are experience with this vintage of KTM pass some knowledge onto me with regards to the rebuild..for example: Can I use aftermarket wheels, or wheels from a later model which are more readily available? Can I oversize the cylinder to remove the scores from the piston pin clips; is an oversize piston available? Is there any interchangeability with larger displacement models, with regards to cylinders, cranks and pistons? Could I up the capacity to that of a 300/380SX without too much hassle? Can I easily facelift the plastics using some from a later model? Any other easy upgrades that people have experienced would be good t9 know about too..exhausts, suspensions etc.. Cheers Rob
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Hey guys, new here. I have a 1998 XR400R that I recently made street legal. I was on a 300 mile trip and ran the bike out of oil. It locked up the piston in the cylinder while going 50 mph in 5th gear. (Stock gearing). It got hot enough that my plastic tail-light setup melted from exhaust gases and the piston melted some, and there were some small metal fragments from the piston (I assume) in the tiny amount of oil that I was able to drain out of it. The cam itself doesn't look scored or anything, and the rockers don't either, obviously some wear but not excessive. I am going to get new stainless valves, valve seals, refinish valve seats with some grinding compound, crf 450 cam chain, manual cam chain tensioner, new cylinder, piston, rings, and new gaskets for all of the top end. (Going back with standard 397cc cyl.) Also planning on cleaning all oil mesh-screens and doing a "flush" (run it with new oil and filter for a bit, re clean mesh screens, replace oil and filter) My question is: How bad of an idea is it to just refresh top end without splitting the case? Has anyone ever tried to do this and what happened? I read somewhere in the forum that the bottom end bearings are needle-roller type and are very strong. I don't know if this is possible, but could the bearings have spun and blocked off any oil passages? (Like what could happen in a v8 engine for example) I know that the textbook answer is gonna be to split it, disassemble everything, clean, replace all bearings and high-wear parts. However, I just wanted to see if anyone has really put the bottom end to the test. Thanks to all who reply.
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I just bought a 1998 Kawasaki kx80, and I'm gonna need some help getting it running, so any help that anyone could provide would be great. The bike had a little bit of fuel in it, but it mostly looked like oil, so i'm guessing that the gas evaporated. It was looking very blue inside there. I put in some mixed fuel but not a lot, i'm not actually sure if it was the right mix. I tried kick starting it and it has some compression, but it wouldn't start at all. I tried push starting it and kicking it into second, and it got a lot closer to starting, but still would not fire up. Then I realized that the clutch was not engaging. When I pull the lever, I can see the cable moving, so I think it is something inside the bike. Also, when I pull the lever, I know its supposed to have some tension as you pull it in farther, but the tension does not change at all, like its not doing anything. I know I probably need to get inside the clutch side of it, but what is wrong with it, and what do I need to do? I'm going to clean the carburetor because that is probably one of the main problems, and I will also try cleaning the air filter. I know that it also has a blown head gasket, which is pretty easy to fix, and I can do that by myself. I also checked the spark plug, and it was super oily, and I cleaned it quickly, and made sure it was getting spark. It was sparking, so I put it back, and tried push starting some more times, and it got a little closer, but it still isn't starting. The bike is also super oily/greasy all over, and I have no idea why, is there a specific reason for this, or just because it has been sitting? One other thing that is wrong with it is that the rear brake works, but is super stiff, and when I push it down, it doesn't want to come back up so I have to pull it back up. The return spring does look a little rusty, and everything around the rear brake system does look a little rusty. I'm going to take it apart and lubricate it and see if that helps at all. What I know I need to do: Clean carburetor, clean air filter, replace head gasket, drain all the fuel in the tank and put the correct mixture in, check the oil and all the fluids, What I need answers to: Why isn't the clutch engaging, and what do I need to do to fix it. Should I get a new spark plug just in case, and why is it so oily in there? What else do you guys think could be wrong with it, and what do I need to do to it? Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.
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Not a dirt bike guy but i want a bike i can take with me to ocotillo wells. I’m looking for a cheaper bike. I saw this 98 ktm EXC 300 and got interested when i looked it up. This is what the sellers description says: Awesome bike, very fast wheelie machine. Smokes all the new bikes. Well maintained and only used for trail riding. 2.8 gal tank has decent range. Fires right up and runs awesome with no issues. About 50hrs on full rebuild(top and bottom end). Has ported cylinder and higher compression head done by Munn racing in texas. Used only MOTUL synthetic 2t oil and motul expert gear oil with motul coolant as well. Good tire tread and tubes hold air with no leaks. V-force reeds, Newish fmf gnarly pipe with tusk aluminum pipe guard, fmf turbine core 2 silencer (with spark arrestor). Enduro engineering skid plate, chain guide/guard and rear rotor guard. Light and trip-ometer work and has beefy wrap around hand guards. New rear brake pads, clutch cable and complete oem clutch lever assembly, new throttle assembly, ODI grips, and rear fender, fresh oil change, spark plug, air filter. Recent tag renewal with green sticker and title in hand. Love this bike, never let me down, hate to sell but time to go. Live on 3 acres you can test ride it in my yard. Good to go, no b.s. $1950 obo.
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