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Found 21 results

  1. I have a gas tank on its way for next week but i want to ride without gas splash everywhere. Any cheap fixes?
  2. I posted a little while back about the annoying deceleration pops/surges that seem to be somewhat common on ktm 2 strokes. There seemed to be a lot of confusion and debate about what they are and why they happen, the most common responses I received were “they are normal” and “your jetting is too lean”. For those that are plagued by these rather annoying and sometimes dangerous surges that occur when cutting throttle on a two stroke i’m happy to report they are NOT normal and they can be cured. Seems the most common misconception is they are lean surges or hanging idle, however those are two completely different things than the deceleration pops. I cured these decel pops by fixing my rich jetting. I prefer to run a tin bit on the rich side for cooling purposes but didn’t realize how poorly it was effecting this decel popping. I cured 99% of the problem by simply leaning it out. I noticed that if they would occur at a higher rpm range when engine braking that my main was too rich, once i cured them up high i realized it only happened when i’d chop throttle at low rpm, so I leaned my needle clip and PJ. Just thought i’d share this for anyone having this problem as they can be extremely annoying, happy trails.
  3. I am going to replace the fork seals on some 05' CRF 450R forks and have 2 different viscosity oils. Since the damper assembly takes X amount of fluid and the fork tubes take X amount of fluid, one quart won't be enough. Since I have heard or observed the oil in the fork tubes is simply for lubrication and not alot more, would it be safe to run the 7w in the fork tubes and the 5w in the damper? Or should I run 7w in the damper and 5w in the tubes, I know manual calls for 5w HP which appears to be 17 @ 40 so the 5w Bel Ray is about spot on. I am not launching off any major sweet jumps like Pedro and Napoleon(more than likely little stuff, maybe some smaller doubles but mostly trail riding) Also some supermoto stuff running another set of wheels and street tires. I am about 150 and have been known to hit 160lbs when I really let myself go. I have 2 sealed quarts of oil. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 5w(17.1 @ 40) - 1 quart of this. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 7w(29 @ 40) - 1 quart of this I also have 2 sealed quarts of 15w Bel-Ray, but its older than 5 years and will have to be tossed out more than likely. I know I could also run some 0-20w motor oil in the outer fork tubes if I wanted to. Was more curious of any advantages or disadvantages on where I should put the 7w, I am thinking with my riding style, surfaces and weight probably the 5w in the damper is what I should run and the 7w in the fork tubes. Thanks!
  4. Hey all in Thumpertalk..... I would like to check-in with some people who are familiar with this specific bike if I could.... I am re-assembling my a my 2002 DRZ400 engine after it has been sitting for 2+ years mostly re-assembled, but not completely. I put a big-bore kit on it 2+ years ago, and life stuff got in the way of finishing the job. I got the head re-installed and torqued down back then, and was forced to stop there. The bike has been safely stored since then, and I am just now getting back to it. I am installing the cam shafts right now, and the alignment procedure/marks that you go by are not exactly lining up. I would rather check-in with some people who are familiar with this to make sure that things are proper before I finish re-assembly. I also have some other questions about taking some extra precautions since this thing has been sitting so long...things dealing with initial start up, verifying oil pressure at start-up, and things like that. Yes, this bike is 20 years old, but it has less than 2000 original miles on it. No, not a typo....only two thousand miles or so. Hope to find some guys that are willing to share their experience and knowledge with me. I live near Murphy, North Carolina. My name is Charlie
  5. Alright enough bullcrap. I'm gonna buy a two stroke because they are fun. I'm gonna ride it everywhere including the track. Performance aside, what is the single most reliable 2 stroke dirt bike EVER made? Is their any bike that I wont have to put a top end in every year? (Assuming I'm not an idiot who overrevvs it everywhere.)
  6. I am looking at a 2018 300 XC-W with 5 miles on it that a guy just traded in because he doesn’t like the 300. I got the dealer down to $7800 + tax, lic. Is this a good deal? Based upon all the 17-18 300’s for sale right now across a few states this seems like a good price.
  7. Have a 97 xr250 that will hit and pop but will not start. I just did the top end and valve job on it. Also have replaced the flywheel, stator, alternator pickup, cdi box and rebuilt the carburetor. When I first bought bike it would only fire on the third kick, but after replacing all parts I mentioned it started firing every time. The coil on the bike is not the one that goes to the bike it is 4 to 5 inches longer than it should be. My question is even though I get good fire from this coil could this be why my bike won't run? Coil is a Honda coil it mounts and plugs up to to my harness like it should.
  8. I got an old 85 cr 250 to run at idle thats it any advise new stator ,kill switch,coil pack,carb all new but all it will do is idle just bogs out when given gas.
  9. Simple question. If you have a bike or just bought a brand new one and plan to race it. What is a must have for the bike before it reaches the starting gate/line and i'm including all types of racing not just moto. for me, it would be a good set of grips and seat cover. My stock seat cover on my KTM blows and the gripper seat i replaced it with rocks out. I could list a bunch of others but for the sake of the question i'm saying 2 to keep it simple 🙂
  10. I need to know the difference between having a lean gas mix and a lean fuel/air ratio. I know that 100:1 is leaner than 50:1 which is leaner than 32:1, and I have an idea of what leaner fuel/air looks like, or too lean, but what are the signs of the gas mixture being too lean? I am currently switching my gas mixture from 32:1 to 50:1 and I ride a KTM 250sx and I will tune my carb, etc. I made a whole thread on this already and I'm pretty positive the bike will run 50:1 fine since the recommended is 60:1 without having to jet it due to the fact that the guy never jetted the carb for 32:1, it is still jetted for 60:1. I just need to know what the signs of lean gas or fuel/air mixture and the difference. I shouldn't even need to know the sign of lean gas, if there are any... I don't wanna &%$#@! up the bike. I would at least like to know the sign of lean air/fuel ratio so that I can adjust since idk the signs of what I would see if it is too lean or rich.
  11. The best way to bring the stock YZ250 carb into balance on pump gas is by reducing the power jet and increasing the needle. I've been doing this for a long time and have mentioned it here once in a while but now the PM's are coming in and topics are starting to get hijacked so here's a new topic. Think of the power jet and needle as a pair working together, kind of like the pilot jet and air screw. When the slide moves up about half way it exposes the power jet spray bar. When that thing is exposed and rev's build it starts to spray, a LOT! The Thing looks like a mosquito sprayer for those who have never removed the subframe and watched it. The YZ250 is known for its lean spot at 3/8 throttle which is the needle. If you tune away the 3/8 lean spot and all its erratic surging etc. everything after that gets to rich and spoogie. The bike is either erratic and then runs clean up top, or pulls hard and clean the first half then dirty up top, or a little of both. I need a bike that pulls hard and clean for the first half and I like it to run clean up top of course so years ago I decided to raise the stock needle for the first half and tone down that mosquito sprayer for the Second half. The needle was easy, I just raised the clip. Then I spent $7 for a #40 power jet for the mosquito sprayer. GOLD, I have a bike that pulls hard and runs clean bottom to top, I have not touched either ever since. It really brought the middle meat of the jetting into a perfect balance for me. Perfecting the pilot and main jets became very easy after that because they were so isolated. Another great thing about it is I don't touch it. I ride 500-1500 feet, 35-85°, 40-100% humidity. Once in a blue moon I turn the air screw 1/8 or 1/4, that's it. Constantly changing jets and needles is just not my thing so I love it. I would think that people at high elevations would especially benefit from the #40. This has nothing to do with what some call the 1/8 burble, that's a whole other topic that I'm not concerned with because I don't ride in that range much and I actually like a little of that burble, it helps with grip. I am sure it's not for everyone but that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Something to consider, hope it helps some of you. Kinger
  12. for the longest time ive had starting problems when its cold. just not enough juice in the cold mornings it seems even with a monster brand new, fully charged, 360cca battery and 0w oil. anyways, ive never seen my voltage above 13.3 volts, even when boosting, riding (with my 90W rewound Baja Designs stator) or anything. ive got other guys telling me their bikes will be 14-14.6v within 5 minutes. could it be that my voltage regulator in my bike is shot? whats a test for this? why 13.3 to choose as its dying number?
  13. Yamaha has recently released the yz125x in the US. What is everyone's opinion on the bike specifically for trails, enduro, hare scrambles etc. What could/should Yamaha have done differently? Is it a good purchase or not worth the money? I provided a link to the bike and specs on their website for those who are interested in viewing. https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/cross-country/models/yz125x
  14. I have upgraded from my old DRZ to a 2018 350 EXC-F. Does anyone have any recommendation for on-line buying of frequently used parts (oil, air & fuel filter, etc.). I do not have any dealers close by, thus on-line is preferred. Also, for a KTM, should I "only" use OEM filters, or are 3rd party filters okay since they are changed so often? Previously, I bought 3rd party filters from Amazon and never had any problems. Thanks
  15. Wjats everyone's thoughts on doingthe fork spring conversion kit on a 18 Kawi 250f
  16. I have been riding bike, 3 wheelers, quads and UTV's for 42 of my 48 years. 90% plus Honda and never an issue with normal wear and tear. I would have had Yamaha as my number #2,however2 years ago I bought a used 2007 YZF 450 and seized the crank after 2 hours of trail riding. It had fresh oil. Upon rebuild it was obvious someone had recently rebuilt it. I asked the previous owner if the crank was rebuilt or old parts or ??? and he went dark on me. I was on the YFZ forum and a guy said he worked at a crank place and they sold about equal amounts of cranks in all brands. I'm not sure I believe him and if you sell the same amount of Honda as you do Suzuki, based upon bike sales volume the data could be skewed. The 0X - 06 YZF's had the issues with no oil pump, however 07 was supposed to fix it. So what make and models have you experienced CATASTROPHIC failure and was it the brand poor engineering/parts, poor maintenance and/or other?
  17. Hello all, over the last couple years I’ve just been reading and asking a few questions here and there about my 1980 XL500S that I had gotten from a collector/dealer in a trade for a cb360 I had. Long story short I couldn’t get a title for the bike since there was an active title in my state(Ohio) and I wanted it plated for the street after I built it. So after some research I bought an 83 XR250 chassis minus the front end off of eBay and was able to get the frame titled for the dirt. Fortunately I can get a street title easily now that I have a dirt title for it. I began trying to fit the frame to the engine and realized it wasn’t going to happen without some cutting, so out came the cutoff wheel on my new Tack Life 11amp grinder which has tons of power BTW!. I chopped the top mount out and it fits like it belongs. There will be some needed reinforcement to the frame since I removed that tube, but I’m sure I can come up with something with what fab skills I have. I had purchased a set of cr500 forks that looked better than I what I received unfortunately they’re about junk, the triple tree stem is wasted and the fork uppers and the caps are wasted. So tomorrow I’m going to look at a set of 94 cr250 forks and possibly a front wheel also to complete the front end with some tapered roller bearings from l balls bearings. I do also have a front wheel from a 91 cr250 but idk if it will for the 94 forks, I’m going to bring it along and see I guess. Today I started fitting the swing arm and rear shock/linkage to see how it all fit. I’m also going to need to figure out if my carb will fit or not with the shock location or get and angled intake boot.
  18. So I have this "95 RMX 250 That didn't have a spark, I assumed it was the stator but I just opened up the case and to my surprise one of the Magnets on the inside of the rotor that spins completely shattered, There metal bits stuck to it and I'm not sure what to do. I cant find one on eBay besides the ones that come in the $300 package deals, or there's an OEM one for over $200. I doubt I can fix it so now I'm wondering if anyone has a solution
  19. Hello, Im having trouble figuring out whats wrong with my 2002 kx250. It was sold to me with the owner saying the clutch push rod was broken off inside the engine. The arm that moves when the cable is pulled it also gone. When I look down in the hole on the cable/magnito side of the engine I see some junk, I don't know if anything is broken. Maybe you guys can tell me what I need to do from the pics I uploaded. I'm pretty clueless about what to do, I've never worked on a bike like this before. I'm a vintage guy 😂 any tips would be appreciated.
  20. Having carb issues with the stock Mikuni BST33ss on my DR250SE. Anybody have experience with the TM pumper offered by Niche? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162877975181
  21. Okay so to start off i know for a fact that it is a carby issue. Basically i have a 1995 Kawasaki Kx100 2 stroke, and its never ever had a single issue for the time that i've owned it which is over a year. Recently with the weather becoming colder approaching winter in Australia, the bikes been really really un-happy. First i noticed that is wouldnt start like it used to so i was like no issues, probably just the colder weather, then while riding it i realized it would bog out at full throttle, like a blubwubwubwub kinda bog. After a bit of tinkering i cleaned out the carb and stuff and tried to tune it, i came accross a different issue, now basically when im riding and i get to like 4th gear, all the sudden the bike will rev out really high and ill loose all power. Then i upshift into 5th and it will be good for a second then rev out and i loose power again. Ive checked everywhere for air leaks and all that and i cant find any. is my air adjustment screw letting in too much air? and in the case of the bog at full throttle should i maybe go down a size on the main jet. Lastly theres another issue lol. when i start it it will idle for a second and then rev its guts out. Please help me, next step is to get a brand new carb i think.
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