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  1. I have a 2017 250 XC-W, and after a head and ignition mod, I am pretty happy with the bike. However, I am curious to try the 36mm Keihin off my 2009 200 XC-W. There seems to be plenty of good feedback on this switch and the 36mm may just give the 250 that little bit of extra bottom end that I am after. I still run the old 200 quite a bit as they are just brilliant bikes, it generally take it out in the more gnarly terrain where running out of talent and sending it back down a rock ledge leaves me a little less concerned than the 250. So if I put the Keihin into the 250, I still want to be able to run the 200, hence looking for some feedback on putting the Mikuni on the 200? My 200 has a shaved and reshaped head, sxs hardparts pipe, Akro silencer and the option of running a 125SX CDI. In the 200, I have been running the 36mm Keihin with 40p, JD Red (200 specific triple scribe) #4, 168 main, A/S 1.5. I'm in Sydney Australia and generally run 1000 feet to 3000 feet and temps of 60f to 95f. I generally like to run on the richer side as the 200 is pokey enough but like all small bores needs what ever can help torque wise Any jetting experts care to suggest a baseline to begin with on the Mikuni?
  2. I have a 1997 xr200r I am currently doing a mild rebuild. I found a set of forks on ebay but I have noticed that the rear shock is not readily available like the forks. Is there an alternate route that I could take that would work with my bike?
  3. Hi all. This is my first time posting here, been using this wonderful resource for some time though. So a brief introduction and question. I got back into riding a few years ago after a long time away. A couple years ago I picked up a new to me 2009 KTM 200 XC-W. I've had a lot of fun the last two seasons riding the bike, but even after a fair amount of riding and getting more comfortable on the bike, it still feels really tall and really stiff. I ride trail and single track, some pretty steep and rocky trails here in northern CO. No MX, racing, or big jumps. I've spent a considerable amount of time on hold and emailing suspension companies trying to get recommendations with no response. So hopefully you knowledgeable folks here can help me out. I was told by the previous owner the bike was set up for a 190lb rider. I weigh maybe 140 soaking wet. I've played with the clickers and have a lower seat but the suspension seems too far out of the range for a person as light as I am. I've torn the forks down for seals and replaced a damper rod tube that had 80% of the threads snapped off where the fork cap / reb adjuster screws on (probably that 190lb previous owner going all Lennie form Mice and Men on it) causing the adjuster rod to be bottomed out just to get the cap on two threads and the clicker on the cap to be stuck. I'm an experienced mechanic and have no issues with the forks and can get the shock spacer added and serviced / charged with nitrogen locally. My question is on spring rates. Racetech's calculator gives me .359 fork and P5 progressive rate shock. Do I want to go up in rate much from there when lowering 1" all around? Here's my plan, based solely on the racetech calculator and my measurements from when I had the forks apart, so your thoughts and experience here are very much appreciated. Stock spring dimensions are 43.2 x 508 x .41. The rate in there now is unknown. I plan on using Racetech 42.7 x 493 in a .38 spring rate. That's .6 in shorter, There's enough shims up top to remove to get correct preload with an inch lowering spacer at the bottom. For the rear stock is 8.4 rate. I can't find any marks to guess what's in there right now. I am planning to use the P5 from racetech, again based on their calculator. Sorry for the long winded post, I'm a mechanic raised by a machinist and I've been trying to work this out for a while. Thanks in advance, Noah
  4. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  5. Hi all, Looking at changing the chain & both sprockets on my 2002 200 exc. Currently running 14 f 42 r sprockets (this is what came with the bike) I ride green lanes with occasional easily ISH hill climbs and I was wondering if anyone would suggest a different gearing for the 200 exc? Cheers
  6. Calling all 2 stroke know-it-alls! I just lost my 2 stroke virginity! Kind of embarrassing since I'm 23, a little late I know... Anyway, I need the know how and some ideas for good hard enduro mods for my 2006 KTM 200 XC-W (let's keep the prices tame.) I did a little research and have a basic understanding of the wide ratio thing and it being the same as the EXC (if I'm wrong someone please correct me). I also have a 2017 KTM 350 EXC-F that gets beat up pretty good so I know about all the protection parts I'm gonna need. I really want to learn about engine mods, tuning the engine and carb and really just the basic ins and outs of my beautiful new 2 smoker. I would also like to know what bikes I can share parts with. Doesn't have to be a perfect, I'm not apposed to modifying. If you guys could recommend some good parts/mods/videos that would be awesome. Thanks to anyone with the knowledge and experience to help me out.
  7. I own a 1983 Honda XR200 and it has the dual rear shocks and I can't ride on modern day tracks without risking them to break or bottom out on jumps, I want to know who can help me about putting a Single rear modern coil spring shock in by fabricating the frame and swing arm to correctly fit. I want to mod into a single rear shock instead of current duals, HELP ME OUT!
  8. I’m looking for some bikes I’m very interested in getting started with motocross and racing and I’m looking at two bikes currently and need to decide fast! One is a 2001 Honda XR200, and the other one is a 2009 Honda CRF150R! I’m 16, 125lbs, and 5’6” I am interested in racing in the future and am trying to figure out which one will be better for me to start out on to work my way up and if I can race either of these bikes. I’m sorry if anything I say is wrong I’m new at this and appreciate any help I can get 🙂
  9. Hi everyone, I purchased a 2003 200 EXC a little while ago. The guy I bought it from said it has a rekluse clutch in it, but that is all I know about it. When I got it pulling in the clutch seemed to have no effect on the bike so I opened up the maser cylinder to find it nearly empty. Filled it from the bottom up and bled it with magura blood. Now when i'm driving in gear it functions normally but any time the bike is off or in neutral it is very hard to pull. The biggest problem is when I come to a stop even with the clutch in the bike stalls. It idles fine in neutral and can be put into first gear and idles fine but the problems happen when coming to a stop. I do not know where to go from here. Any help is appreciated, Thanks. Also considering just going back to a standard clutch, seems like it would be easier to trouble shoot and more reliable for the future?
  10. My son has a 1988 Honda XR200R that he's been working on and it's awesome! He got it starting in one kick and has just been able to go enjoy it when, BAM, rear shock goes bad. I've searched and searched to no avail to find a replacement. So now I'm hoping I can get some help here. I'm either looking for one for sale, maybe a crossover shock that would fit, or any advice that can lead us to a replacement. All help appreciated. Thank you.
  11. Is it too picky to ask a dealer when you’re buying a brand new bike to give you one that’s fresh out of the crate instead of the showroom model? Asking since my buddy will be buying a brand new Yamaha YZ450F and is worried about buying the showroom model since the last showroom model he bought had a bent radiator, bent rim, and a cracked subframe and air box. Luckily he discovered all this before riding it and after getting home. The dealer did end up fixing and replacing all those but it took awhile to get all the parts. (Bike was a 2013 KTM 450 XC-F)
  12. Hey all, first post, glad to be here! Just got my first 2 stroke in a trade, it's a 2004 KTM 200sx. always been a 4 stroke guy, but I've done some time on some friends' yz125's and yz250's. Since day one, i though mine sounded like a bucket of marbles, especially on decel and idle, both with the clutch in and out. Here's a short clip of the test ride the first day i got it: https://vid.me/XPgVP to ease my mind, I rebuilt my crank, after finding a tiiiiny bit of up and down play. all of my bearings checked out, so I omitted replacing them since i don't have access to a machine shop. buttoned it back up, and fired it up. https://vid.me/4gDWj the noise has improved (i think), but I'm not sure if there's something else at play here. or maybe it's just a noisy bike. What do y'all think? many thanks Adam
  13. Ive posted my problems in the 200 club, but my issue doesn't need to be cluttering up that thread. The Problem: About 3-4 weeks ago, I have noticed that all the way up in the revs, the bike kinda sputters and cuts out. Power down low is not effected and the bike idles/starts just fine. Not erratic, but when I open it up, it makes this noise and the bike loses power. It almost sounds like a 4 stroke rev limiter tbh. What I've done: I have changed jetting, gone leaner and richer with mains, needles, and needle pos. Jetting has remained the same and this wasn't an issue before. I was able to hit max speed no problem before. But did anyways to see if it would do anything. I have taken the cylinder off to clean the powervalve. I did that 30 hours ago when I did my top end, but did it again to make sure. Put it back together to Andrew Cookseys video on YT. I have checked the powervalve linkage in the inner clutch cover. All the ball bearings were in place where they should be on the timer. I replaced the actuator pin that connects the arm and the centrifugal timer. I had an aftermarket 1 way valve gas tank thing on my gas cap. Took that off to see if it was causing a vapor lock. Nope. I have clear fuel hose from the tank to the carb. There is gas flowing. I am going to today take off the carb and deep clean it and check all the ports and what not to make sure they are not plugged with stuff. I have no idea where to look now after the carb. I guess it could be an electrical problem but I really hope not.
  14. So when I'm riding my '98 200M/XC nothing seems wrong until you hit the powerband in 3rd and 4th gear. It seems like the engine is hitting a rev limiter, it's going full throttle and then dies and then back to full and dies. But as soon as it gets out of 3rd and 4th and I go into 5th, 6th, 2nd, or 1st, it's perfectly fine. Does anyone know what's causing this?
  15. I have just bought a new FMF Gnarly for my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W, it works great but i want to use it to its full potential to get my moneys worth. So i need some advice on jetting my carb for the Gnarly pipe. Any ideas on jetting for my bike? Thanks
  16. Hi. I'm in a jam and hoping one of you have ran into this or just know your stuff on Mikuni pumper or accellerator pump carbs. I just purchased a 1987 Suzuki DR200. It's stock with the Mikuni 42A20 carburetor. From what I understand, the 42A21 and TM28SS are the same....any others, I am not sure. I have also seen it called a TM33-8012?? I KNOW mine is a 28mm bore though. The issue is I cannot afford to buy a new 42A20, they are very expensive. The carb was apart , in a bag, corroded, missing slow/pilot screw, and the big issue....someone drilled a hole in the bottom of bowl, of plunger cylinder? I have been unable to find any schematic or information with a part # for the bowl (float chamber as some call it). Is there any carburetor that the bowl will mount to this carburetor and allow me to use the carburetor as the accellerator pump is intended? I have been told to just put a diaphragm or cv carb on it, to but another style like is on Ebay & Amazon that has a half round/half flat slide...the oem is the complete flat style. Others have said the 86,87,88 (especially 87 for some reason) needs the AP for the bike to run correctly? If it will run just fine with cv carb, please let me know. There has to be a reason they used the pumper style and still do on some....I think I read they used the pumpers up to 2007? I have the carburetor clean and noticed there is a check valve under the brass port...spring & ball check valve but the spring is sideways. I think it needs to be straight up & down and can easily move it will tiny pick. Any information, part #s, input about this will greatly be appreciated. I hope I can find someone to sell me a bowl or another complete or mostly complete carb. The pilot jet that was missing has been ordered. I plan to try to fix the hole and try it out but wanted to find this information out. It's a lot of confusing info (like carburetor on Ebay saying it will fit but when you look at description it skips the 87 model or starts at 1996 & newer?), I have downloaded a diagram with 42A20 part #s as well as factory specs of it. Thanks in advance.
  17. Do you have a 200exc, xc, or xc-w? Do you want it to rip like a 125sx bike; have the engine scream like an eagle; hit jumps wide opened and soar through the air like a pheonix? Welp, the standard 200xc/w setup does none of those things. You might be saying to yourself - I already adjusted the PV arm for more top end. I already tried the 'langston setting' and my bike still sucks... 😞 Maybe you can't turn the 200xc/w, a purpose built tame offroad lugger, into a true SX style bike. or maybe your just not good enough to ride the bike that hardcore... Well your wrong, more wrong about anything in your life. Just look at this shinning example. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First off here is some anecdotal info that I have learned as well as other people on the internet regarding the PV timer. Adjusting the PV lever arm up increases top end. True-ish, but this largely dependent on what type of pipe you have. With the standard 200xc/w pipe this works. But its not going to make into an 200sx. Softer PV springs increase top end. False , The 250-300 did this (mild/medium/aggressive PV springs) but I assume this was to have the same effect as adjusting the lever arm up on the 200 models. The 200sx actually used a stiffer PV spring. Don't worry I'll expalined why. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'll start from the begining. ACT I I was using the KTM powerparts pipe and had the PV arm adjusted way way up for more top end. During the winter rebuild I switch to a FMF fatty for (2003-2004 200sx). The new bike ran like crap, no top end power. I adjusted the PV arm back to the stock position just to see what would happened and boom-shakalaka I had power again. With some adjusting, the ideal PV position was actually below stock. Why? FMF fattty was signifantly shorter than the KTM pipe. Which means... The suck-action is shorter, (pipe pulling mix through the transfers into the combustion chamber and pipe) The stuff-action starts and ends sooner, (pipe stuffing mix back into the combustion chamber while piston is traveling upwards). *If the stuff action happens to early in the cycle it stops mix from entering into the combustion chamber. I suspect this is what was happening. By lowering the PV arm the exhuast port open time is shifted later in the cycle... which also delays the pipe's suck & stuff cycle. So the shorter pipe cycle can correctly sync up... The negative & positive pressure waves occuring at the right piston position. I hope I explained that well enough, It's hard to put into words. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT II The fatty pipe wasn't great becuase this kept happening everytime I hit something. So switch to the DEP pipe. The DEP is a top-end wot pipe, best performing pipe I tried so far. It sits high up out of the way rocks. I've had mine for at 2 seasons and it has only 1 dent. But heres the catch; the DEP is short, shorter than the FMF, waayy shorter than the powerparts pipe. To get it to make power I had to move the PV arm down (like I did with the FMF) but like all the way down. More so than the adjuster was designed to do. The pictures shows were I had it, the arm is nearly touching the case and I had to use 2 washers to get the screw cap to fit. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT III I remembered from this post that the 200sx timers were stiffer. This got me thinking, a stiffer spring may work better with the DEP pipe; I wouldn't need the PV arm adjusted so far down. I did some research and bought all 3 springs. There where 3 types of springs made: 52337050044 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL. 200'98 *SOFT* 52337050144 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL.200SX 03 *STIFF* ^^^*!! No Longer Available !!* 50337050044 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL. 125'98 *STIFF* The 125 spring is identical to the 200sx spring from what I can tell, and is still available brand new from KTM. So there are 2 springs, soft & stiff. Lets see what bikes KTM used them on. 200 EXC - SOFT SPRING 200 XC -SOFT SPRING 200 SX- STIFF SPRING 150 SX - STIFF SPRING Look closely, all the bikes using the stiff spring have a much shorter pipe length than the soft spring bikes. Makes perfects sense, If the PV opens too much too soon the power drops out because the return wave is actually restricting mix from entering in the chamber- The issue I experienced with the fatty & DEP pipe. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT IV (its almost over) I installed the new PV timer during the most recent rebuild. I used the CPL. 125'98 because it was brand new. I adjusted the PV arm back to the stock position. Bike ran great, had power throuhout the range and loads of top-end like a true mx bike (like in the video). I did a little bit of adjusting to see if there was any more power to grab and heres where it ended up... ^^^ Thats pretty dang close to the 'langston setting'. If I remember correctly the langston setting was for 125, which means he's bike had the stiff PV spring. It's no coincidence that my bike with the same hardware would react similarly. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Conclusion The ideal PV arm position is extremely dependent on what pipe is on you'r bike. Just adjusting up does not always translate into more top-end power. If you'r running a 200sx pipe in an attempt to convert you'r bike you need the stiff spring to get it to work correctly. The EXC soft springs opens too soon and makes the engine out of tune. Full disclosure there is otherstuff done to my bike to increase top end. -Engine ported by Ken OConnor Racing -Carb bored to 38mm & Suzuki needle -Vortex CDI
  18. Hey y’all I picked up a running blaster quad for reallllll cheap ($100) :) I was wondering if I could swap the blaster engine in the rt180 frame and if it would work or rather it’s not worth my time All Responses Appreciated, Jared
  19. I have an '08 200xc. I absolutely hate gnarly pipes. I like the KTM/FMF pipe (which is pretty much a fatty pipe I think) but now they are really hard to find. Some pipes say they will fit 06-10 or 03-04 or 04-05 or 06-07 or 00- 06 or 00-05 or 04-15... you get the idea. Whats the real deal here? Ideally I just want a fatty pipe on this bike or just something that isn't focused on low end torque.
  20. Got a 2002 KTM 200 EXC the other day, seemed to run fine during the test drive. Take it out the next day and after ~15 minutes of riding it fouls a plug on me. Push it home and buy some more plugs. It now fouls the new plug within 5 minutes of putting a plug in. Starts right up with a new plug but fouls it out very quickly every time. Tried 3 plugs. Any ideas as to what could be going on? I'm using NGK BR8EG plugs. Air filter is fine. I took the carb apart and lowered the needle (raised the clip one notch) and checked the float level. Maybe the piston and rings need replacing or the crank seal? Haven't had a chance to check them yet. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  21. I have a 2002 XR200 in need of a shock! Anyone have any for sale?! Thanks in advance
  22. Hi all, Yesterday I purchased a used 2007 200 xc-w. I was not able to kick start it when I went to look at it but the seller was able to twice (with some trouble) by turning the gas off and opening the throttle while kicking it. I rode it around and it rode pretty well so I chalked it up to a cold bike and user error as this is my first bike in over 10 years. Well, I still couldn't get it to kick start yesterday or today. I can bump start it down a hill and it will rev and ride fine but it dies instantly at idle. I noticed some splooge draining out of where the pipe connects to the engine so I changed the o-rings on the pipe, however the pipe does not want to snuggly fit into the flange. Its an FMF gnarly and I verified it is the correct model but it seems like the flange is much larger than the pipe, as there is a lot of play in it when its attached. One of the pipe mounts is missing (I have new ones on the way) and it looks like the pipe may have taken a hit, no dent but possibly bent ? I plan on trying to bend the pipe once I get the new mounts to see if I can get the pipe to fit more secure but would a leak here cause me to not be able to kick the bike over or have it idle? Any other places to look first? I played with the air screw and idle screw a little with no luck. Im assuming its not carb related because it runs well once it's going. Thanks!
  23. Are there any go-to parts places for these old kdx's? Or anybody that you guys recommend I send my cylinder too? I traded my old kz550 for this kdx last week and the only reason I agreed to the trade was because the kdx supposedly had a brand new crank and top end with low hours on it. It ran good enough to make the trade and had great compression, just needed some carb tuning, it had a good knock to it but everywhere I researched said that its normal and it's only the kipps valves. As soon as I got the carb lined out, the con rod bearing went out, taking my piston and cylinder with it.. idk why it failed, con rod says "royal" on it but other than that, idk what brand any of the parts used are. Havent dug too deep yet. Just want to get it running as cheap as I can since I traded off a dang nice bike for this thing and now I'm kicking myself for doing so.. I have to many project bikes and I really didnt think I was getting another one.
  24. One of my best videos to show the versatility of the 200 motor. Creeks, 4 inches of nasty slurry on hard pack, some hard dry moto track, wet clay up hill ruts, clutch abuse up hills, swamp ruts, tire jumps. Set up with stock jetting, no OI, 32:1. Great tractor like power. I got very little not smeared with mud video. I rode better and worse at different times during the race.
  25. I was wondering how would I go about converting a KLR650's single exhaust tip into dual twin tips for under 200$ (example picture below). Is there a pre made system already made?, are there converters and other pipes pieces I can put together to build it?, or is something I have create entirely on my own by cutting and bending pipes? thanks
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