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Found 27 results

  1. Hi all. This is my first time posting here, been using this wonderful resource for some time though. So a brief introduction and question. I got back into riding a few years ago after a long time away. A couple years ago I picked up a new to me 2009 KTM 200 XC-W. I've had a lot of fun the last two seasons riding the bike, but even after a fair amount of riding and getting more comfortable on the bike, it still feels really tall and really stiff. I ride trail and single track, some pretty steep and rocky trails here in northern CO. No MX, racing, or big jumps. I've spent a considerable amount of time on hold and emailing suspension companies trying to get recommendations with no response. So hopefully you knowledgeable folks here can help me out. I was told by the previous owner the bike was set up for a 190lb rider. I weigh maybe 140 soaking wet. I've played with the clickers and have a lower seat but the suspension seems too far out of the range for a person as light as I am. I've torn the forks down for seals and replaced a damper rod tube that had 80% of the threads snapped off where the fork cap / reb adjuster screws on (probably that 190lb previous owner going all Lennie form Mice and Men on it) causing the adjuster rod to be bottomed out just to get the cap on two threads and the clicker on the cap to be stuck. I'm an experienced mechanic and have no issues with the forks and can get the shock spacer added and serviced / charged with nitrogen locally. My question is on spring rates. Racetech's calculator gives me .359 fork and P5 progressive rate shock. Do I want to go up in rate much from there when lowering 1" all around? Here's my plan, based solely on the racetech calculator and my measurements from when I had the forks apart, so your thoughts and experience here are very much appreciated. Stock spring dimensions are 43.2 x 508 x .41. The rate in there now is unknown. I plan on using Racetech 42.7 x 493 in a .38 spring rate. That's .6 in shorter, There's enough shims up top to remove to get correct preload with an inch lowering spacer at the bottom. For the rear stock is 8.4 rate. I can't find any marks to guess what's in there right now. I am planning to use the P5 from racetech, again based on their calculator. Sorry for the long winded post, I'm a mechanic raised by a machinist and I've been trying to work this out for a while. Thanks in advance, Noah
  2. I have a 1997 xr200r I am currently doing a mild rebuild. I found a set of forks on ebay but I have noticed that the rear shock is not readily available like the forks. Is there an alternate route that I could take that would work with my bike?
  3. I have a 2017 250 XC-W, and after a head and ignition mod, I am pretty happy with the bike. However, I am curious to try the 36mm Keihin off my 2009 200 XC-W. There seems to be plenty of good feedback on this switch and the 36mm may just give the 250 that little bit of extra bottom end that I am after. I still run the old 200 quite a bit as they are just brilliant bikes, it generally take it out in the more gnarly terrain where running out of talent and sending it back down a rock ledge leaves me a little less concerned than the 250. So if I put the Keihin into the 250, I still want to be able to run the 200, hence looking for some feedback on putting the Mikuni on the 200? My 200 has a shaved and reshaped head, sxs hardparts pipe, Akro silencer and the option of running a 125SX CDI. In the 200, I have been running the 36mm Keihin with 40p, JD Red (200 specific triple scribe) #4, 168 main, A/S 1.5. I'm in Sydney Australia and generally run 1000 feet to 3000 feet and temps of 60f to 95f. I generally like to run on the richer side as the 200 is pokey enough but like all small bores needs what ever can help torque wise Any jetting experts care to suggest a baseline to begin with on the Mikuni?
  4. Hi, I have a 2002 Honda XR250R and I love the bike but the gas tank but, let's be honest, it is quite bland. The seat also dips quite low in comparison to the top of the gas tanks so cornering is more difficult compared to other bikes. I was wondering if there is any street bikes (such as the newer xr250 or the cr230) who's gas tank and seat is interchangeable with my older XR. I have looked at aloop kits and such but they are just too expensive. Not the older XR has a single beam to the handle bars while the newer Hondas have a "double wishbown" frame style. Thanks so much
  5. Got a 2002 KTM 200 EXC the other day, seemed to run fine during the test drive. Take it out the next day and after ~15 minutes of riding it fouls a plug on me. Push it home and buy some more plugs. It now fouls the new plug within 5 minutes of putting a plug in. Starts right up with a new plug but fouls it out very quickly every time. Tried 3 plugs. Any ideas as to what could be going on? I'm using NGK BR8EG plugs. Air filter is fine. I took the carb apart and lowered the needle (raised the clip one notch) and checked the float level. Maybe the piston and rings need replacing or the crank seal? Haven't had a chance to check them yet. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Hey y’all I picked up a running blaster quad for reallllll cheap ($100) :) I was wondering if I could swap the blaster engine in the rt180 frame and if it would work or rather it’s not worth my time All Responses Appreciated, Jared
  7. crhrider

    XR 200 in need of a shock

    I have a 2002 XR200 in need of a shock! Anyone have any for sale?! Thanks in advance
  8. I have an '08 200xc. I absolutely hate gnarly pipes. I like the KTM/FMF pipe (which is pretty much a fatty pipe I think) but now they are really hard to find. Some pipes say they will fit 06-10 or 03-04 or 04-05 or 06-07 or 00- 06 or 00-05 or 04-15... you get the idea. Whats the real deal here? Ideally I just want a fatty pipe on this bike or just something that isn't focused on low end torque.
  9. evanalmighty

    2007 200exc problems

    so i recently purchased a 2007 200exc, which was supposed to have everything replaced etc etc. when i got it, it was running fine for the first 2 weeks, then the bike wouldnt start, and everytime you cranked the kickstarter fuel would POUR out of the carby overflow tube. so me and my dad took apart the carby and found a sh!t ton of dirt and gunk in there, so we used carby cleaner and a toothbrush to get as much out as we could, still poured out fuel when cranking. so we once again took apart the carby and found the the needle and float had a problem where by the float was bottoming out all the time (im no mechanic so dont have a go at me if im using wrong terms or am wrong), so we fixed that and made the float level out. went to start it, great, it started, no fuel pouring out, couldnt be happier, que the new problem. the bike cannot idle for more than 20 seconds before stalling, and once it has stalled, you cannot start it again, turns out spark plug was not the right one and was to "cold". so we ordered an iridium spark plug in hopes that it would fix this issue, we were wrong. i had recently got the bike regod and i was keen to show it off to my mates, when for a ride which should have taken 5 mins, ended up taking 2 hours. i was riding up a hill and so gave it a bit more throttle, and the bike started to cough and splutter then just cut out. wheeled it off the road and when to start it, wouldnt start, after 2 hours of trying to start it every now and then and waiting for fuel to purhaps evapourate off the new spark plug, wouldnt start still. eventually i had to clutch? roll start the bike which it ran finish after that. the still would start whilst kciking it so again i had to clutch start when leaving my mates. then the bike cut out again on a hill. wouldnt start when kicking, and had to clutch start again, made it home, and not touching it until it gets a proper fix as i dont want to be stuck 10km from hopeand cant start the thing. if there is any advice at all that may resolve these issues of not idling, not starting, and cutting out when giving it throttle up a hill that would be greatly appreaciated, ratio is 50:1 by the way as i did run 40:1 but the plug always turned black, and it has had an aparent top and bottom end rebuild. could be jetting im told or needle and float but i really am stumped and i dont want to be forking out a whole bag of cash as i had just paid a total of roughly $4500 for this bike and rego, (i live in Australia) thankyou and serioulsy and advice id really appreaciate it
  10. So when I'm riding my '98 200M/XC nothing seems wrong until you hit the powerband in 3rd and 4th gear. It seems like the engine is hitting a rev limiter, it's going full throttle and then dies and then back to full and dies. But as soon as it gets out of 3rd and 4th and I go into 5th, 6th, 2nd, or 1st, it's perfectly fine. Does anyone know what's causing this?
  11. Ive posted my problems in the 200 club, but my issue doesn't need to be cluttering up that thread. The Problem: About 3-4 weeks ago, I have noticed that all the way up in the revs, the bike kinda sputters and cuts out. Power down low is not effected and the bike idles/starts just fine. Not erratic, but when I open it up, it makes this noise and the bike loses power. It almost sounds like a 4 stroke rev limiter tbh. What I've done: I have changed jetting, gone leaner and richer with mains, needles, and needle pos. Jetting has remained the same and this wasn't an issue before. I was able to hit max speed no problem before. But did anyways to see if it would do anything. I have taken the cylinder off to clean the powervalve. I did that 30 hours ago when I did my top end, but did it again to make sure. Put it back together to Andrew Cookseys video on YT. I have checked the powervalve linkage in the inner clutch cover. All the ball bearings were in place where they should be on the timer. I replaced the actuator pin that connects the arm and the centrifugal timer. I had an aftermarket 1 way valve gas tank thing on my gas cap. Took that off to see if it was causing a vapor lock. Nope. I have clear fuel hose from the tank to the carb. There is gas flowing. I am going to today take off the carb and deep clean it and check all the ports and what not to make sure they are not plugged with stuff. I have no idea where to look now after the carb. I guess it could be an electrical problem but I really hope not.
  12. Hey all, first post, glad to be here! Just got my first 2 stroke in a trade, it's a 2004 KTM 200sx. always been a 4 stroke guy, but I've done some time on some friends' yz125's and yz250's. Since day one, i though mine sounded like a bucket of marbles, especially on decel and idle, both with the clutch in and out. Here's a short clip of the test ride the first day i got it: https://vid.me/XPgVP to ease my mind, I rebuilt my crank, after finding a tiiiiny bit of up and down play. all of my bearings checked out, so I omitted replacing them since i don't have access to a machine shop. buttoned it back up, and fired it up. https://vid.me/4gDWj the noise has improved (i think), but I'm not sure if there's something else at play here. or maybe it's just a noisy bike. What do y'all think? many thanks Adam
  13. Julain8Wilson

    FMF Gnarly jetting for KTM

    I have just bought a new FMF Gnarly for my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W, it works great but i want to use it to its full potential to get my moneys worth. So i need some advice on jetting my carb for the Gnarly pipe. Any ideas on jetting for my bike? Thanks
  14. Parker_B30

    2003 KTM 200 EXC Clutch Issues

    Hi everyone, I purchased a 2003 200 EXC a little while ago. The guy I bought it from said it has a rekluse clutch in it, but that is all I know about it. When I got it pulling in the clutch seemed to have no effect on the bike so I opened up the maser cylinder to find it nearly empty. Filled it from the bottom up and bled it with magura blood. Now when i'm driving in gear it functions normally but any time the bike is off or in neutral it is very hard to pull. The biggest problem is when I come to a stop even with the clutch in the bike stalls. It idles fine in neutral and can be put into first gear and idles fine but the problems happen when coming to a stop. I do not know where to go from here. Any help is appreciated, Thanks. Also considering just going back to a standard clutch, seems like it would be easier to trouble shoot and more reliable for the future?
  15. MotoXRacer_19

    TOO PICKY?

    Is it too picky to ask a dealer when you’re buying a brand new bike to give you one that’s fresh out of the crate instead of the showroom model? Asking since my buddy will be buying a brand new Yamaha YZ450F and is worried about buying the showroom model since the last showroom model he bought had a bent radiator, bent rim, and a cracked subframe and air box. Luckily he discovered all this before riding it and after getting home. The dealer did end up fixing and replacing all those but it took awhile to get all the parts. (Bike was a 2013 KTM 450 XC-F)
  16. One day I noticed my clutch was no longer working and noticed fluid had been leaking out of the area around my clutch slave cylinder. I have replaced the gasket twice and each time it just leaks back out within about 5 mins of riding. Any idea to fix it?
  17. Dgrdurham

    Help me build a great 200

    Purchased a 2003 Ktm 200sx a few days ago. I live in Colorado near loads of good riding. My hope is to build a great single track trail machine. Attributes I'll be shooting for are, properly set up suspension(I weight 215 with gear), engine performance tuned toward the low end. Looking for great traction and slow speed control. Don't really care about top end speed. Reliability also very important. What I'm working with as far as the engine, is a 2006 125SX bottom end, with a 200XC cylinder (which is currently at US Chrome getting replated and fitted with a Vertex piston). The big end rod bearing is destroyed so I currently plan on picking up a hotrods bottom end kit at slavens when I get home in a couple days (Fortunately I live 3 miles from Slavens). Budget isn't unlimited, but I can spend as much as is necessary to build a quality bike. I'm not wanting to spend a fortune obviously. I'm planning on doing 90% of the work myself. I know there are a lot of people on here that can give some good suggestions and steer me in the right direction. So if you have good info on engine mods, carburetors(I'm planning on purchasing a lectron for it), gearing, tires, etc, etc please chime in. I'll update progress on this thread as it progresses. I would like to get this bike on the trail by mid to late April as the weather here in the Rockies is already fantastic.
  18. It is time for me to do a top end on my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W. I went to the motorcycle shop to price up a top end, they asked me what grade piston is it that matches your cylinder. I had no idea about this, there are grades A, B and C and maybe more or less, all with 0.01mm differences, and it will say in my cylinder what piston to get. I have looked all over the internet and nothing has told be WHERE to find the marking to show me what size piston to get, im sure i could figure it out but what i really want to know is if i need to take the cylinder OFF to get to the markings. I have taken a photo of the markings that i can see on the outside of the cylinder if that's any help. Thanks
  19. Sarulicious

    Considering a 2002 Honda XR 200

    I roll into the parking lot at work this week and there sits a 2002 Honda XR200. I have been a long time VFR pilot with limited trail riding experience. A couple years ago I refurbished a TTR-90 for my 10yo and have been looking for a trail bike for myself. As a Honda fan I am familiar with the XR but it is rare to find one like this that someone is willing to let go. Spoke to the owner, he is willing to sell for $1000. The front fork seals NEED to be replaced, and the rear shock is leaking significantly and requires repair or replacing. Due to this is a limited time offer, and I have limited knowledge in this realm... I am looking for insight and advice as to if this is a diamond in the rough or more trouble than it's worth. Any and all guidance, advice, and knowledge sharing will be greatly appreciated!
  20. CaptainPicard

    Time to do your top end

    I hope I don't tick everyone off by putting a link to a classified ad here. I'm selling a piston kit for a pretty good deal and thought I should go to those who might benefit from it the most. Thanks! https://thumpertalk.com/classifieds/item/1370-ktm-200-piston-kit-and-gasket-kit/
  21. I am doing my first top end on this bike, (2008 KTM 200 XC) as I do the top end, is there anything else I should check or take a look at while I have the bike/engine stripped down. First time ever I have done a top end, I have all the tools and gauges needed to do the top end. I have done a fair amount of learning and research. Such as "X dimension" and what not.
  22. Alex Grove

    Bogging Out Issues

    So I was riding today in woods close to home, thank god, and my bike was running perfect.('98 200 EXC) We went around to ride for a day when after an hour or so the bike bogged out and wouldn't start up again. We took out the spark plug to see how wet it was and there was barely anything on it, though we dried it off just incase. When we kicked it again, it started, but after a second it would bog out and wouldn't start. The next thing we tried was bump starting it and that didn't even work. So now heres the question, Any ideas on the problem? The packing in the silencer is perfect and there isn't any clogging in it so it very strange. Thanks!
  23. I just bought a used 2013 ktm 200 xcw for my wife and am dialing it in for her. It was lowered front and rear by pro action. There is a sticker on the fork that said air space 125mm, Oil 01m5, comp 24, rebound 14. I am trying to figure out how to set the sag on a lowered bike. Usually I run 105-110 on KTM / Husky but if it's lowered do I adjust the sag in relation to height lowered. Stock is a claimed 300 mm of travel and now it's 250 mm so do I make the sag 91 which is 83% less? Any advice is much appreciated, I have been scouring the internet for sag setup on lowered bike and no luck... yet. Thanks people.
  24. I have just bought a new FMF Gnarly for my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W, it works great but i want to use it to its full potential to get my moneys worth. So i need some advice on jetting my carb for the Gnarly pipe. Any ideas on jetting for my bike? Thanks
  25. Parker_B30

    2003 KTM 200 EXC Jetting

    I recently bought a 2003 and tore the carb down just so I knew what it had for jetting. I found a 178 main, 48 pilot, and NOZG needle on 2nd clip from top. (Bike has totally stock exhaust and riding is about sea level). The 48 pilot caught my eye as I thought it should have been more like a 42 and was wondering if this is correct? Also what is the best needle to use and on what clip? Any help is appreciated, Thanks.
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