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Found 25 results

  1. Just bought a 2000 KX 250 two-stroke for a great deal when looking for a project bike. When I put the bike in neutral which is a little hard to find, it jumps into first gear by itself and trys to takeoff no matter if I squeeze the clutch lever or not. When I first started the bike it basically did a burnout in my garage with no throttle applied and the clutch lever pressed then it just stalls out eventually this happened for about five seconds. Attached are some pictures of my clutch disk and clutch basket from what I researched today the basket should not look this bad , but do you guys think? Is the clutch the source of my problems or is it something internal and would I need to split the case.
  2. I took the clutch off of my RM250 and when I spin the rod/inner hub it seems to be getting caught on a gear or something?!
  3. So I am currently working on a 1997 CR125 and plan to make a full race build on it. But I have been noticing that there are not very many aftermarket parts the biggest being the plastics and graphics for it due to the frame,tank,sub frame, etc. I was wondering if its possible to put that engine into a CR125 frame anywhere from 98-07 and how hard that would be to do. I have a welder but I am not confident enough to weld new motor mounts. If you guys could help me out with this that would be great.
  4. So basically I’ve got a 2000 Suzuki rm250 that I did a top end replacement on, I also replaced all the electronics and it started second kick, I turned it on a couple more times after that but it wouldn’t start, it didn’t have enough spark, so I took out the stator and the ignition coil, put them back without doing anything to them and it turned on, I’m pretty sure it’ll stop working again after I turn it on so what’s wrong, is there a contact somewhere that’s not touching well or what causes this to happen? Thanks in advanced
  5. So I bought a yz250 (2000 model) and have seen people convert the bike to 2015+ plastics with updated shrouds and rear plates n fender. However I am aware the restyle kit does not bolt right up to my bike and is made for 2002+. I've watched videos saying you have to fab your own mounts and buy a 2002+ subframe to make the rear plastics work. How hard is this?
  6. I think this is in the right place. I have a klx 300 manual cam chain tensioner. I was curious if it would work on my 2000 drz400e
  7. Came home from a week of being away, go to start up my 2000 kx250 and the kickstart snaps off. It broke off by the actual kick shaft. I'll post a pic. Anyways, I wasn't to worried but I have looked for the part and Kawi doesn't make it anymore! And nothing on eBay. Figures. I saw one for a 98 but don't know if that'll fit? Suggestions?
  8. Hey, I am looking for a new dirt bike in the $2000 range and I happened to come across a Cr250r it's a 2000 and looks good just wondering if it would be a smart investment. Is there a lot of maintenance that apply to 2-stokes plus it's a 2000? There is also a YZ250F that is a 2004 4-stroke for $1800 I want opinions and facts!
  9. Hey guys I just wants to come on here to ask a question about my bike I own a 2000 yz125 and it ran great everyday for about 3 minutes for 3 days because that’s how long I’ve had and it and I just let it run but then I went to warm it up one day and it was bogging down I would rev it it would hesitate then rev up anyone’s input would be much appreciated.
  10. Hi all, I’m new to this forum and am after some help with my 2000 Yamaha YZ 250 I bought the bike as a non runner and after a top end rebuild it fired right up The issue I’m having is under hard acceleration once in powerband the bike will seem to misfire/stutter for a split second causing the bike to quite violently jerk, it will then rev out nicely with good power once pass this point It does not do this if I accelerate from lower revs in a higher gear Any advice would be appreciated Thanks
  11. Hi guys, I’m new to TT and currently searching for a second-hand exhaust system for my DRZ-400S. I’m on a tight budget so buying new isn’t an option for me at the moment. With that being said, this horrid looking OEM exhaust has got to go! If there is anyone here wanting to sell their system, I’d be interested. Thanks in advance!
  12. Hey guys I have a choice. I can buy this 1998 kx250 which was nicely restored this winter and freshly rebuilt in near showroom condition for 2800. or i can buy this 2000 yz250 that could use a wash but it has been rebuilt with sub 1 hour on the bike. Both sellers are selling due to having multiple bikes and not riding them enough to justify keeping them. is there any big problems with either of these bikes? I don't exactly need all the power of a 250 2 stroke but it shouldn't hurt. I'm 6 5, 16, and 170 lbs. i had a ttr250 which was a bit small for me and an 81 yz125 that fit me well, another question is which bike is set up for taller guys. i usually only ride trails but am hoping to start moving towards motocross soon. anything helps, thanks.
  13. I am needing the crankshaft collar that goes on the primary drive of the crank. Yamaha has discontinued this part. 90387-2513A-00 COLLAR The previous owner put an 01 crank in my 2000 bike....not knowing I ordered the crank for a 2000 but am missing the parts to put it together. Crank is all installed already. Does anyone have this part kicking around!!!! THANKS!
  14. Came home from a week away, went to take the ole kwacker for a rip around the house and the kickstarter snapped off. Broke right at the actual kick shaft (in pic). Went online to look for the part and Kawi doesn't make it anymore! And nothing on eBay. Saw one for a 98 (mines a 2000 kx250) but don't know if that'll fit. Anyone know of it will? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
  15. Hey all, Just the outer day I desisted to do some suspension work on my 2005 400exc, so I started searching trying to figure out whats on my orange machine. In all the chaos and confusion an idea came to mind... What if there was a master thread for all suspension of KTM dirt bikes, from early models to present, one place you could quickly find your bike and the suspension it sits on. It might already exist but I have spent hours looking for it and am in doubt. So hears the deal, I know you can look up a certain fork or shock and find loads of info and reviews about it so i'm not asking for that here, I just want to list the year, model, what it floats on, and changes in setup. If you feel so inclined to leave a comment or two about the suspension that would be great, but lets try to keep the list neat so its easy for others to find the bike they are looking for. This is what I have come up with so far I think its most of the major differences. Please correct me if i'm wrong. 2002-2006 All KTM, 2007-2016 EXC: Use an OC (open chamber) WP USD 48mm fork, with a PDS rear. The oc fork tends to be soft from the factory but loads of tuners have experience with this fork and I hear it can be set up great for a reasonable price. 2007 XC/XCF/XCW/XCFW: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2007-2014 SX/SXF, 2008-2013 XC/XCF: WP CC (closed chamber) twin chamber fork , linkage rear. the forks have an air bladder that needs to be checked and filled instead of a pressure spring. Are more expensive parts wise and harder to set up. Great fork for advanced motocross guys or those who just want to most aggressive set up. 2008-2016 XCW/XCWF: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2014 XC/XCF: First model to get the 4CS fork, uses a linkage rear. The 4cs fork is designed to be lighter but has a verity of performance problems one being little bottoming resistance. Lots of mixed reactions from users. 2015-2016 SX/SXF/XC/XCF: first year of sx/sxf to get the 4CS fork, linkage rear. 2017-present (2018) SX/SXF/XC/XCF: has an AER 48mm air fork, linkage monoshock. The AER fork is insanely light (over 3 pounds less than the 4cs). 2017-present (2018) XCW/XCFW/EXC: WP XPlor fork, PDS rear. I don't really know anything about changes in shocks, and there must be some stuff about forks that I missed, for example the OC fork has been used form at least 2002 until 2016 there must have been some changes during that time. If you happen to know anything about that or changes on the other bikes please share. Cant wait to hear what you all have to say. Happy trails
  16. I'll cut to the chase then give a little back story, 2000 pw 80 I need to know which rear wheel spacer I need, is there any way someone can measure or provide info on which spacer I have and which one I need. Okay so I got handed a basket case pw80 from my uncle, left outside for the last year or so, rear chain hub assembly exploded and they just never fixed it, so I get a water beaten, no air filter having sun faded carb looked like a seamen filled toilet. motor was seized, let it sit over night with magical oil and she broke free, quite easily honestly, tore the bike down to the frame and motor, and I'm currently going through it, ordered new carb, re lubed all cables, did a ghetto oil pump delete and ordered everything to make her a track worthy pitter. Shes coming along nicely for the second day of "working on it"
  17. I traded my motocross-style bike for a 2000 XR650R yesterday, and am now looking for some general tips on ownership (apologies if this question is covered in another thread, I did not find exactly what I was looking for) Some questions I had to get the tips going: 1) Any performance increasing mods i should consider, or is it already an animal stock 2) Has anyone recently made a bike like this street legal in California - is it a painful process (DMV part, not really the electrical install part) 3) The electric start option looks expensive and not worth it - or might it be worth it if the bike gets difficult to kick start at times? 4) What is the best riding style/terrains for a bike like this (I already crashed hard cornering a berm on it, and thought I should start riding different terrains - like not a motocross track anymore) 5) What are the basic guidelines behind Routine Maintenance on this XR650R 6) I think I need new Sprocket and Chain - any tips on the sprocket tooth ratios (Previous owner is my friend and trusted mechanic. He put a White Brothers exhaust and really dialed in the jetting, so that is one area I did not feel the need to immediately address. Also has a stabilizer which seems pretty valuable. Other than that I do not know much about the bike yet) Basically I want to ensure I am getting the most out of this new bike, even if it means changing everything about my riding style... those questions will help guide me in the right direction Some pics attached - thank you !
  18. Hi tt, i noticed an overflow of gas coming out of the carb so i checked it out. I assumed it was the float height do i tried to find the spec in the manual, but it is not there. Can anyone tell me that the spec is? or what they run theres at. Also please let me know if it could be caused by something else. thanks
  19. So heres the deal, I don’t know much about jetting, I’ve never actually jetted one of my 2 strokes. They’ve all ran satisfactory when I bought them. Anyways, In 2 weeks I’m taking a trip to Colorado with some buddies, here’s my bike specs: 2000 YZ250 fmf Fatty (stock silencer) I run 40:1 Klotz (91 oct) planning to ride singletrack and a general mix of terrain when I try to look up jetting charts it all comes up for a 2001+ and not for a 2000. If any of you guys could help me out, either with providing a accurate chart or telling me some info I’d be deeply thankful.
  20. I recently picked up a 2002 yz426f for cheap however it’s missing all of the exterior oil lines... are the oil lines all compatible on this bike from 1998 to 2004?
  21. Hi I have a Suzuki RM 125 2000. I ran it out of petrol. Someone filled it up with about 1 Lt of Petrol, apparently and did the 2 stroke by eye. I would estimate we probably used about 25ml (two bottle cap full), maybe slightly more. I have stored the bike for winter, however every week or so would start it up for 5 minuets. it doesn't idle with out pulling back the throttle back slightly. The time before last when I started it after about 10 kicks, it started but cut when i tried to pull back the throttle, I did the same again and the same happened. I left it about a week and tried again. The same thing happened. now it wont start. The obvious before I do anything is get a new spark plug. The bike has nice compression and had recently had a engine re build. I has been ran in. In relation to the 2 stroke, when it was running, in my shed there was white smoke, so even if there was less than there should be, there was 2 stroke in it and I only ran it on the stand for a short while in neutral twice. Being a old bike to start. It takes a few extra kicks. From what I have said., what are the chances that it has blown up, apposed to being flooded. In my mind at least there was 2 stroke in the bike, and even if i did use to little I don't think that this is the case If I put a new plug in it and try bump it and it doesn't start I take it has blown up. The reason why I ask is it is stored for winter and getting it out is hard., but if it doesn't start off the kick, im going to have to drag it up a hill and bump it.
  22. Hey all, Started first rebuild today. Thought I would document it. Not a mechanic and definitely gonna screw up. Bought manual. I guess I'm going to replace all bearings and bushings, rebuild engine, new plastics, etc. Came with Athena head, don't know of it's a big bore. Anyways here are some pics. I definitely could use advice. Be back next week. Step 1. Getting frame powder coated matte black Thanks Dave
  23. Hey guys, Background: I was riding my dirt bike and it was running great. I went to pull in my clutch, and it took about half of a pull for it to even engage. I realized the issue and kept riding, but about one minute later i had lost my clutch completely. it was all slack, as if there wasn't even a cable connected. if i came to a stop in first gear with my clutch lever all the way in against my handlebar, it would stall out as if i wasn't holding the lever at all. A stretched/frayed cable was my first thought, but upon digging deeper into the problem i am rather certain it is nothing lever/cable related. First i drained my trans oil, no metal chucks, shards, nothing came out. Then I took off my flywheel cover, and removed the necessary components to remove my Clutch Lifter Lever. Surely i thought i was going to find that the pin had broken where it pushes on the Lifter Rod, but that was not the case either. I removed the clutch cover, and nothing was abnormal. I have the correct amount of steel/fiber plates in the correct order, none are cracked. None of the bolts/springs were loose on the Pressure Plate, and neither was the lock nut holding on the clutch basket (which also has the lock washer and thrust washer trapped behind it). The Lifter Rod and Clutch Lifter seem to be in correct condition. My buddy was even generous to let me tear apart his same exact bike and compare the Lifter Rod and Clutch Lifter, which checked out to be the same, except his clutch works great while mine doesn't. I did not check his Lifter Lever because of the hassle it is to take that off and set the timing again after etc. I have had multiple people check that all of the components were in there, and checked with my manual at least a dozen times. Everything is there. There are five pictures below, the first two are pictures of my Lifter Lever. I have ordered a used one of these in hopes that it could somehow solve the issue, even though nothing seems to be wrong. Our best guess is the pin that comes in contact with the Lifter Rod spun, but it is not loose by any means and does show any visual signs of that happening. The third picture shows the distance between the Clutch Lifter and the surface of the Pressure Plate which i measured with my calipers and is .150" The fourth photo shows how far I need to lift my lifter lever up in order to remove the slop and start to disengage the clutch. I have almost no travel, because the Lifter Lever comes in contact with the casing (about 1/8 inch gap between the two in picture). In picture five, this is where the Clutch Lifter should be, which is .040" from surface to surface. To my understanding, there is .110" of slop between all of these components, but everything seems in the right condition, and no signs of broken pieces. The fifth picture is how the manual and my buddies bike shows it to be, and how i believe mine should be. Does the orientation of the pin on the clutch lifter lever look correct? it seemed to compared to the pictures i googled. I am completely stumped. Has anyone had similar issues? Please let me know if you need better clarification, its a very hard problem to describe over a post. Thanks in advance. Austin
  24. there’s a 2000 Kawasaki Kx125 driven 300 miles up for sale for 1650$ bucks should I go for it and buy it?
  25. Hey guy I have yet another question I was wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar to this. My oil filler cap is right below my exhaust so it is really hard to use to fill up and to screw back in after taking it out because the exhaust blocks it a bit too much. As shown in picture below. Has anyone else experienced this is there a way to fix it?? Thank you for you’re responses.
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