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Found 26 results

  1. Dillon Wells

    CRF250R not getting spark

    Hi, i have just rebuild my 2005 CRF250R. I got it all back together and now I have no spark. I didn’t mess with anything electrical during the rebuild so I’m confused why it doesn’t have any spark. I checked the stator, the ignition coil, spark plug and all grounds and connections,they were all Goodman’s still nothing. I found tho when I unplug the wire from the cdi box that runs from the stator, it will click like it’s getting a little bit of power. When I turn it over I get spark for like 3-4 kicks, then nothing again. That’s if I even get spark at all. Please help if you know anything about this,or what it could be, thanks.
  2. 2005 YZ450F, Athena Big Bore, Power Bomb, Q4. Ok. Last fall after a decently hot day at the track, I noticed coolant leaking from the weep hole on my water pump after pulling into the pits. Ordered an Athena re-seal kit, put it all back together and didn't really get a chance to ride it. 3 weeks ago, went out to the track, and after about 20 laps, it started leaking again. Kept filling it with water to get thru the day, never ran anywhere close to dry or empty, jut a cup or 2 low. Ordered a Hot Rods re-seal kit with bearing and also ordered a new w/p shaft. Did it all again and got it back together, ran it, and as soon as it got to temp, it was leaking out of the weep hole again. So, what the heck am I missing? I'm totally stumped on this one. Is something wrong with my case cover? Do I need to replace the w/p itself? I'm feeling like I should've just ponied up for the Boysen in the first place, and now it's biting me in the butt. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  3. Connor Wright

    Engine OIL coming through air box

    Hey I have a crf250x 2005 I was riding today in top gear flat out and when I slowed down blue smoke just poured out the exsaughst then I happened to open the air box lid and saw it has what looked like engine oil in it then took out air filter and noticed that there was splatters of engine oil on the inside and that and the channel that goes to the carby had engine oil all over it. Also bike got a top end rebuild 15 hours ago The engine still runs good and sounds normal why would this be happening on a resonabley fresh engine
  4. Bike is back to giving me trouble again. Has ran great the last few rides, but yesterday I tried to fire her up for her weekly run, and I couldn't even get a sputter out of her. Not sure if the temp has dropped enough to completely lean out the idle circuit or what. I did have the fuel screw about 3 turns out the last couple of rides due to falling air temp. Plenty of compression kicking thru the bike, and I just did a valve adjust about 15 hours ago. The only thing I can think of at this point is to put fatter main and pilot jets back in. But, open to any other suggestions that might sound plausible.
  5. So, I had a fabulous 2 days of riding with my family this weekend. My bike was running the best ever after finally getting it dialed in while healing up from my broken sternum. Unfortunately, during Sunday's riding, what started as an untraceable buzz, turned into an absolute obnoxious clatter by late afternoon. So, I ended up parking it in the trailer, it was almost 5pm anyway. Upon unloading my bike on Monday, I decided to start it and ride it into the shop, and the noise was unbearable and quite obvious an exhaust leak. Put the bike on the triangle stand to peak and found a 1" tear right on the first bend off of the head. So, yesterday after work I decided to pull it off and get it cleaned up. What I thought was a 1" crack turned out to be a series of cracks. It appears that at some point when the bike went down (it's been down before I got it, and has been down since) the metal must have torn just a bit, and then the vibrations and torque of the motor just started tearing the heck out of it, following every little tiny crease from getting bent. After a thorough inspection, the main crack went almost all the way around the pipe. I don't have $200 for a head pipe right now, so I'm going to have my neighboring shop try to TIG it up to get me thru the season. Not costing me anything, so it's worth a shot. Unfortunately I didn't think to take a pic before I took it over there last night. I'll try to snap a pic 1st thing this morning if the welder hasn't gotten to it yet. Has anyone else heard of or seen this before? It's a stock head pipe with a FMF silencer.
  6. I bought this 2005 yz250f off craigslist and i brought it home and rode it for 3 weeks just to realize when i took it apart it had a crack in the frame. I took this upon myself to purchase a new frame. The bolt holding the triangle in the rear suspension to the frame does not fit on the new frame. Yes, i am sure it is the right frame. Should i call a guy to weld the old frame or should i continue to try to get a new bolt made? -Jon
  7. My CRF450R was hard to start, so I took it to a shop for Valve inspection They found the valves were way off, and they have now been set to: 222 on Top 2, 179 on Bottom 2 But they warned of a very big problem - the Upper Right Cam Tower bolt is stripped in the threading, and said that would require a new Head replacement They also said the Tensioner has no tension So I am wondering how serious of a problem the Stripped Threading is on the Head, because it seems to be very expensive fix. But they also said when the Cover is on, the bolt cannot escape. Some Question: 1) If I do ride it like this, can the problem get any worse - or has the damage been done and I may as well keep riding until it stops running if an entire head is to be replaced anyways 2) What parts will I exactly need in the replacement - because if I search for CRF450R HEAD, there are multiple parts packages and they are so pricey I want to ensure I get only what I need - seems like I may want to replace Valves too if they are close; and is the Tensioner a part of that package? 3) Should I try to get a Big Bore kit or something, so the large expenditure of time and money at least puts me to a point of better than stock? Thanks in advance - let me know if any pics or anything can help - really a sad day
  8. Installing my freshly cleaned exhaust valve. Following the service manual. But when I'm installing the return springs on the rod they feel very loose and don't return the valve assembly when you open it. Are the springs ment to just "hook" in place without further action? Do the springs need to be "pre-wound" or anything? Shouldn't the whole assembly be snapping back to the closed position when testing it? Should the springs be kind of loose on the shaft (read side to side play)? I don't know if I'm just overthinking this, thinking about it wrong, doing something wrong or if it's the way it should be. Here's a pic (front): and side: The manual is not very clear on this point and I can't remember how it was before I disassembled because the motor has been sitting around for a while waiting for new parts.
  9. Nate Ross


    So like an idiot I was on craigslist and found a very cheap Enduro 250. The problem is I have no idea what year or brand of bike it is due to the VIN number being scratched off on the bike. Wondering if anyone recognizes this bike or can identify what kind of a bike it is. I can attach images of the bike below. THANKS!
  10. Hi There, I always had issues with the bike having a bog when accelerating. but the bike was running "OK" and starting first kick I looked online and bought a quickshot 3, I could have done it slowly with just changing the leak jets but I don't have a place to ride the bike, so every time I've got to pay to get to a track. to cut long story short, I took the carb out, cleaned it and installed the QS3 Slow jet 42 Main Jet 172 Needle 5th grove (stock 3 but as mixture was ok I did not want to change too many parameters at once) Put everything back together and went to the track. Very odd I could not start the bike with the choke on. Then I tried with only the hot start and it started first pop (from cold) Then went riding. It was really bad, the engine would blubbers everytime I was between 0-1/2 throttle, then above that it would run lovely. Do you think the chances are I didn't put the carb back in right? I tried every adjustments possible didn't make a difference. fuel screw all the way in, same problem, fuel screw 3 turns out same, and every combinations in between. by the way the bike starts at pretty much every kick as long as I use the hot start. Let me know what you think. Cheers
  11. Casey Rogers

    Kill switch not working 2005 Crf250x

    I have a 2005 crf250x and one day it wouldnt turn off. Later i was riding and i dumped it and it started working. Next weekend on the next ride half way through I hadent dumped it sense the last time and it stopped working. I got a new kill switch and did the clutch saftey by pass and it still isnt working. The battary termald are tight and all the connections I can see are in. What could it be? My next step it taking off the gas tank and inspecting the wire and seeing if they are pinched. Thanks
  12. P12LBW

    KX125 2006 v 2005

    Hi All, New to this forum, I've just purchased a 2006 KX125 here in the UK and I'm struggling to find parts for this specific year. On eBay there are a lot of parts for a 2005 which I need from America, Can anyone tell me the difference between these two bikes? Are they identical? Will all the parts from 2005 fit 2006? Thank you!
  13. I've got a 2005 450X that I have been having some starter issues with. The problem started with the e start going out, so I replaced the starter motor and got a brand new oem yuasa battery (yes I got the correct kind)... it helped but the starter would hesitate and then crank over up to speed after it overcame the hesitation. After researching this I decided to replace the starter clutch. After putting it all together with a brand new starter clutch assembly, the kickstarter is turning the starter motor. I assume it is not because of the clutch because I just replaced it. Let me know if you have had this issue or know what it might be. Thanks.
  14. Rockhead-AUS

    2005 WR450 GDDUs Jet needle help

    Hi all, Hoping someone can clarify that the GDDUs needle is the Yamaha GYTR version? I have an Australian model 2005 WR450 and none of the dealers here have been able to confirm this. I suspect the previous owner might have bought the needle over the internet, possibly from the US. Have searched extensively for more details on this needle (yes using Advanced search features) and even emailed Keihin directly but didn’t get a response. Any info and specs if possible would be appreciated.
  15. I feel like ripping my hair out! I bought a 2005 cr125 years ago, brand new. From day one it was a fouled. Eventually I had it tuned kind of good. A couple of years ago someone stole my bike. Obviously I recovered it. My crank bearings were shot. So I split the cases and changed them and both seals. After assembling the bike it smoked and bogged like crazy. I thought I may have fudged up the right crank seal when I installed it...nope changed it and still smoked and bogged and fouled. It sat up for about a year and I just broke it out again. It doesn't smoke as bad. If I idle for about 10 seconds it'll blubber and shoot out smoke before fouling a plug. The strange part it that it rides pretty good on the pipe, but out of the blue with blubber and eventually die. Now After cleaning the spark plug and kicking it, it'll turn over for a sec and die. The spark looks weak so I check it with a new plug and it looks good (so I'm assuming it's not the ignition system) anyone else have this problem? I'm beginning to think this bike is a money pit...but on the same hand I feel like it's something small causing all of this. Oh and also it's dripping that black crap from the tailpipe and plugs are always wet. I went down a size on the pilot...didnt help.
  16. swamp-donkey

    KTM Stator

    Recently purchased s 2005 KTM 250 exc. I am out of state from where the bike is currently stored and am trying to get info about the stock stator. Looking at OEM part schematics, I find that this year and model apparently could have either the 2k-2 stator with about 35-40W output or the 2k-3 stator with a better/higher output (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/21). The bike currently has no head light but allegedly it used to when it was bought. Is there an easy way to know which stator is actually on my bike without pulling it out and actually looking at it or testing the output? Or should I assume that if no one has done the upgrade to 2k-3 stator that it would have a 2k-2 stator by default? Next question: If the bike has 2k-2 stator, what would be the brightest light I could get for relatively decent price. Broad question, I know. But if anyone has some really standout recommendations for older type bikes, I would appreciate it. Thanks!
  17. Hello people! So this is the first time I've ever posted in a forum, I hope this is the right place. :) I have a 2005 WR450f which has been converted to a motard. The bike runs great except for when the throttle is wide open, this happens in every gear though, so whenever you hit higher RPMs. Now, I have replaced the emulsion tube along with the main jet, brand new original parts all from Yamaha. The rest of the throttle is extremely smooth and and rides like a dream. I have also ofcourse replaced the air filter and I have sent the bike in to have the carb adjusted and set correctly by the guys that actually know what they doing. The guy at the shop mentions that he thinks its the CDI that cuts out at high RPMs. The bogging feels like the engine isn't getting enough fuel at high RPMs and the bike basically just doesn't pull at all and sort of "chugs", blipping a little bit of throttle here and there. What are your guys thoughts? Anyone have a similar issue that you were able to resolve? Cause we all know that little electrical box ain't cheap! Thanks!

    2005 KX250F

    I have a 2005 KX250F. I know they have a bad rap for overheating and other engine problems, but got it super cheap so couldn't walk away. I want to know if anyone has tried putting some kind of fans on the radiators to allow for higher ride temperatures. Like slow trail riding and things like that, that particularly don't get enough air flow across radiators to cool the coolant. Let me know if you have, and how you did it. I may be starting a fire with this, but what was so bad about the 05 kx250f? Mine runs great and has never overheated after hard riding, slow riding with high rpm, and several other situations. Just want to know what to look out for in the near future for problems. SO WHAT WAS SO BAD ABOUT THE 2005 KX250F?
  19. Hey all, Just the outer day I desisted to do some suspension work on my 2005 400exc, so I started searching trying to figure out whats on my orange machine. In all the chaos and confusion an idea came to mind... What if there was a master thread for all suspension of KTM dirt bikes, from early models to present, one place you could quickly find your bike and the suspension it sits on. It might already exist but I have spent hours looking for it and am in doubt. So hears the deal, I know you can look up a certain fork or shock and find loads of info and reviews about it so i'm not asking for that here, I just want to list the year, model, what it floats on, and changes in setup. If you feel so inclined to leave a comment or two about the suspension that would be great, but lets try to keep the list neat so its easy for others to find the bike they are looking for. This is what I have come up with so far I think its most of the major differences. Please correct me if i'm wrong. 2002-2006 All KTM, 2007-2016 EXC: Use an OC (open chamber) WP USD 48mm fork, with a PDS rear. The oc fork tends to be soft from the factory but loads of tuners have experience with this fork and I hear it can be set up great for a reasonable price. 2007 XC/XCF/XCW/XCFW: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2007-2014 SX/SXF, 2008-2013 XC/XCF: WP CC (closed chamber) twin chamber fork , linkage rear. the forks have an air bladder that needs to be checked and filled instead of a pressure spring. Are more expensive parts wise and harder to set up. Great fork for advanced motocross guys or those who just want to most aggressive set up. 2008-2016 XCW/XCWF: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2014 XC/XCF: First model to get the 4CS fork, uses a linkage rear. The 4cs fork is designed to be lighter but has a verity of performance problems one being little bottoming resistance. Lots of mixed reactions from users. 2015-2016 SX/SXF/XC/XCF: first year of sx/sxf to get the 4CS fork, linkage rear. 2017-present (2018) SX/SXF/XC/XCF: has an AER 48mm air fork, linkage monoshock. The AER fork is insanely light (over 3 pounds less than the 4cs). 2017-present (2018) XCW/XCFW/EXC: WP XPlor fork, PDS rear. I don't really know anything about changes in shocks, and there must be some stuff about forks that I missed, for example the OC fork has been used form at least 2002 until 2016 there must have been some changes during that time. If you happen to know anything about that or changes on the other bikes please share. Cant wait to hear what you all have to say. Happy trails
  20. skiwithnoskis

    Carb tuning HELP!!!!

    Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
  21. So I am currently working on a 1997 CR125 and plan to make a full race build on it. But I have been noticing that there are not very many aftermarket parts the biggest being the plastics and graphics for it due to the frame,tank,sub frame, etc. I was wondering if its possible to put that engine into a CR125 frame anywhere from 98-07 and how hard that would be to do. I have a welder but I am not confident enough to weld new motor mounts. If you guys could help me out with this that would be great.
  22. So, since I got this 2005 YZ450F a few months ago, it's had a bad hot restart issue. Cleaned the carb and replaced the a/p diaphragm and it was better for awhile, but every once in awhile would still fall on its face and not want to restart. Then 2 weeks ago in Moab, I had a horrible hot stall and restart problem. So, when I got back I went and did my valve adjustment and every thing is in spec now. Cam marks, and flywheel marks all line up, chain and tensioner were in good shape so reused. I researched the jetting section of this forum, and have dropped from 165 main to a 160, 45 pilot to 42, and stock NFLR needle from clip position 4 to clip position 3. Fuel screw 1.25 turns out. Now throttle response is good, except a little flat off closed idle. Weird thing is now when I hit the kill switch, 2 seconds after the motor stops turning, it shoots a flame past the spark arrester. Also when revving, there is a single loud pop when closing throttle, but not much popping when riding on decel. I figure that is because the pilot is still too fat and should be dropped to a 40 or 38. Despite making all these changes for the better, the stalling and restarting has gotten worse. Today was my first ride since the valves and jetting, and she was running great! Best midrange response it's had. But then out of nowhere after an hour or so of riding. It kept stalling for no reason, and was acting very weird on restarting. It was as if the plug had fouled, but it was a brand new plug. After several minutes of kicking, finally restarted. Went back to the truck and took a break, and didn't want to restart. Finally got it started and ran fine for 10 minutes, then stalled on a trail going downhill like I hit the kill switch. Rolled for 20 feet still in gear and it never restarted. Was stranded in the back field of my local track for 20 minutes, finally got it restarted and got back to the main area. Went to do a lap on the track, and as I was pulling on, same thing, just fell on its face. Also, many times while kicking, bike would fire for a few revolutions, then nothing for another 10 kicks. So does this sound like the ignition coil is crapping out? Always runs like an angry ape after initial startup, pulling the front wheel no problem and great throttle response.
  23. My dad and I have two XR650Ls, one is a 2005, the other is a 2008. We've been trying to get the carburetor tuned, but we've been having some trouble finding the right way to route all the hoses. Both of them have had Dave's mod done, and they've been uncorked and have an FMF Powercore 4 slip on exhaust. They're jetted at 55 and 158 at about 6,500 feet above sea level. Fairly often, when I'm cruising around 40 mph, the exhaust pops and the bike loses power for a split second. That's the main problem that I've noticed. Also, on my bike, if I let off the throttle without pulling in the clutch, it pops a ton. I know some popping is normal, but it seems like it's a bit excessive. If anyone has any tips on routing the carburetor hoses, or any other tips to get them running right, it'd be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  24. brady murphy

    2004 wr450 parts

    I've posted here before looking for wr450 engine. I haven't found one yet for a reasonable price so I thought I'd try again. I'm looking for just the engine but a whole bike would be great also. Let me know what everyone has.
  25. Hallzilla

    TT-R 125 Plastic updates

    Hey guys Just got a killer deal on a 2005 TTR-125L. My question is, Will the newer model plastics work on the older models ? Any cosmetic updates that can be achieved to make it look more like the newer models ? Any aftermarket companies ? Thx