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i just recently got a non running 06 crf250, the guy said it just needed new valves or might be able to just get away with shimming the valves. I got home with it tore it all apart, the head seemed good and all the valves seemed to be sealing fine i put small puddle of gas on the head when it was upside down to see if any would leak through. Nothing leaked through it seemed like the valves are sealing fine. i put the engine back together, shimmed the valves and got them all in spec, timed and everything and engine has good compression now. issue im running into now is it wont seem to try to start at all. spark plugs got good spark and everything seems all well. ill be kicking it over and over again and once in a while ill get a really loud backfire. i can smell gas coming from the exhaust so it doesn't seem like its coming through the intake. No clue what could be wrong with it now. I mightve gotten the timing off but ive been messing with timing for 2 days now and still nothing. Also the bike seems to go through every gear smoothly but 2nd gear wont engage its kind of like a second neutral. the guy said he did a bottom end on it and i asked him if he forgot any washers or anything when he did it and he said he didnt mess with the gears at all so not sure whats up with that hopefully i wont have to go through the whole bottom end now. Im stumped on this bike so does anyone have ant suggestions on what could be wrong?

So I am currently working on a 1997 CR125 and plan to make a full race build on it. But I have been noticing that there are not very many aftermarket parts the biggest being the plastics and graphics for it due to the frame,tank,sub frame, etc. I was wondering if its possible to put that engine into a CR125 frame anywhere from 98-07 and how hard that would be to do. I have a welder but I am not confident enough to weld new motor mounts. If you guys could help me out with this that would be great.

I have a 2006 kx250f starts first kick when cold takes a few kicks when hot but i was out riding with my buddies and i let one of them ride my bike when he went to start it up he kicked it over and was telling me it has very low compression and that it should not be that low, is this normal or a problem im just looking for someone who knows what there talking abouts advice cause if its a problem i wanna fix it to give you an idea how much compression there is you can push down the kick starter with your hand but it still takes effort. pic for attention

Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause

Hey folks been lurking on here for about two months. Been searching and searching. Before I ask for your advice, let me give you some background. I have a 2006 crf250r and a 2011 crf250r. My son is ready to move up from his TTR125, he enjoys riding my 250's. We mostly trailride. Here's what I'm planning to do, sell or trade the 2006 for a 230x or 250x. But the 2011 I'm thinking about modding it for trail. I'm looking into a recluse clutch as everyone has mentioned. However, I'm not sure which model to get (thinking the core3.0). I'm also looking at getting an 18" rear tire/rim. But I'm not sure what size tire to get. I have a Yosh full exhaust on the 2011 and want to make sure I'm not rubbing. So can someone give me some idea of what size tire to get when I order the rim? Both bike have Renthal sprockets and DID X ring chains. The 2011 is fairly new. So what sprocket size should be optimal for slow to med trail use? Not rocks etc, just ditches and tight turns (Resembling finger lakes if anyone has ever been there). Thanks, I am sure all of these questions have been beat into the ground, but I haven't found any definitive answers yet.

Simple question for anyone with previous FMF+2006R experience. I did a search and turned up squat. My 450R 06 has fmf pc4 slip on. However there is about .250" gap between the end of the slip on and the clamp sleeve thats welded to the head pipe. I just swapped the subframe as prev owner had installed an 05 and there was no place to mount the midpipe mount. Had .750" gap before, now down to .250" with the 06 subframe. Seat fits better too... Am I missing something about the exhaust mounting or are they just cut too damn short from fmf? Also had a buddy measure his head pipe (2007 450r) with dial calipers and I measured mine and came out about 1/8" more OD on mine. Its deffo not a mega bomb and looks very factory with the heat shield and all so guessing its factory. Any ideas?

Looking to put newer shrouds on my 06 rmz 250. Will 07 shrouds work? Boly holes look almost identical

My sons Rm85 is pouring out petrol all of a sudden. He thinks it's something to do with the jet. I know nothing about bikes and he is only 13 and isn't experienced enough to be taking it apart but I was just wondering if anyone could advise me what I should do?. Also I've noticed he never puts coolant in the water tank and just wanted to know if this is important and would have an effect on its performace? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks ?

So, I am about to embark on a major tear down of my 2006 CR125 and have one more "problem" that I need to resolve during this rebuild. My clutch is a pretty firm pull and it fatigues my forearm pretty quickly. I'm not sure if that's simply how it is on these bikes, having pulled the clutch lever on other bikes such as the yz125 and rm85, my clutch is very hard to pull in comparison. I just replaced the cable with one that the guy I purchased the bike from gave me, so maybe not stock? Would that make a difference? Also, could it be my springs? I've never had problems with the clutch such as lurching and the clutch is smooth, just hard to pull. Thanks, Will

I bought a 2006 WR250F a few years back that had no spark arrestor or tail pipe. Any advice where to find exhaust/silencer insert that fits directly on the 06 WR250 but with larger diameter outlet than stock. This would be with 4 mounting holes to fit up to the end plate. I want to keep my existing end cap. I see the GYTR, out there but it seems way over priced at $50+ , and they dont really show the entire component. From years past, it seems that there were alternatives from PMB, ect. but do not see them available now. Considered making my own with all of the years of discussion and advice here on TT, but I would have thought by now, this would be a typical part, easy to find. Also want to get spark arrestor. Ideally, a combo insert/ spark arrestor aftermarket. What am I missing?

I lived in Idaho my whole life except for 10 years of college and travel. I got my first motorcycle at 8. I rode MX track and dirt roads until I went to college. When I moved back I got into sport bikes and ripped the mountain and river roads on GSX-Rs. It was awesome. But last year I bought a dirt bike again. After putt putt-ing around on an XR250 for 2 months I bought an '06 RM250 and began modding it for trails. Back to my 2 stroke roots. Mods include: Steahly 10oz FWW, FMF Gnarly Pipe, Moose Reed Spacer, G2 Throttle Tamer, ASV 1 finger levers, hand guards, skid plate, Uni Air Filter, Fast Away Evo 4 pegs, Fast Away Kick Stand, Pro Taper high bars, Tusk bar risers... At this point I've chased down some minor jetting issues by dropping the pilot jet down to a 45 and the bike runs real smooth. It tracks like a MoFo, lugs hard in the first 3 gears but can pull and growl into mid range with wheelies every time. Top end, although I rarely get there on the tight trails, screams like all good 2 strokes are meant to do. Turning and maneuverability is on point, ducking and weaving tight trees and tractoring sharp switchbacks like a boss. I am so pleased. This bike is so much fun. I've finally got a tool to explore the lifetime trails out my door in my home state. Although I wouldn't say we have much true woods riding, we do have sections of trails that duck and dive through tight trees. All this and I'm still under 3K for the bike and mods. Everybody has drank the Orange Koolade (EU Manufacturers), but I think this RM gives the best of them a run for their money. And at a fraction of the price. None of my KTM buddies want to even ride it... they afraid. Work I'm planning to do: Grease the shock and swingarm, Wisco clutch basket and plates, 13-51 gearing with x-ring chain, top end rebuild over winter, bigger tank, high rise seat... Are the newer bikes that much better? Are the new bikes ANY better???

i plan on putting my banshee away for a couple years to keep it from getting weatherd. what can i do to help preserve it.and is there anything i should worry about before i put it away

Hey everyone, Picked up a 2006 kx450f with a fresh top and bottom end rebuild off a friend. New carburetor was bought off Ebay and installed. I've looked and it's got a 45 slow jet and a 180 main for the power bomb header and q4 slip on. Checked for plugged jets as well and none were. Can only stay running with choke on and with it that way it will hang sometimes forever sometimes. Choke pushed in while idling it stalls and with throttle input as it gets pushed it will only stay running with throttle. Get out of it at all and it dies and just wont start back up. I've tried the fuel adjustment on the bottom, the idle adjustment maxed in and it still wont run right. I have not verified timing or if it needs to be reshimmed, only has .6 hours on the meter that was installed just after rebuild. Backfires like crazy when snapping throttle shut and sometimes it bogs when free revving. New throttle cables and twist throttle put to be in spec as last one was hanging on by thread. Any ideas on what to look at next? I think I have the old carb from it but it's been robbed for parts. Supposedly started happening after this new one was put on. Should I buy an OEM one and try that?

I have a 06 ttr 230 that I suspect has a blown head gasket. Does anyone know what the compression is supposed to be?

Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky

Hello u guys I have to do a full service on my 2006 250 exc, it’s an eu model. I have a big big scratch on the cylinder, and I don’t want to reuse it. i’ve seen some things that I can do with it One of my wishlists it’s a 300 upgrade, and I need to know what do I need to change to a 300 convertion, and if you can tell me which other upgrades I can do with it, from newer models, like an electric starter, mapping, and other stuff, just because I don’t know if the parts of the newer models like a 2011/12/13 cylinder fits my engine. please let me know if you can help

So I have a 2006 crf250x I rebuilt the engine myself, had a maintenance shop trouble shoot it to see if i did it right or if i did something wrong and they said everything was perfect. So now i just rebuilt the top end and had the maintenance shop perform a leak down test to check if i resurfaced my head correctly and if i had good compression. Results came back to me saying that yes indeed i have no leaks and i have good compression... They also said my exhaust valve clearance was good but my intake had 0 clearance, they quoted me for $250 to have them do it so i instead just took it home and did it myself the bike reads (.003"in) to large from the spec clearance on the left intake and my right intake reads in between the specified clearance (.005"-.001"in)0.12-.03mm) my question is and ive already tired, will it not start with one valve having too large of a clearance? Yes its getting fuel yes it has compression(or at least its capable of sealing compression), yes it has spark and yes the timing it 100% correct.

I’m relatively new to dirt biking, I blew out the shock on my 06 125 and I’m trying to figure out the size of the shock I need (not trying to get a OEM) if someone can link me the size/ where to find a fitting shock it’d be much appreciated 🙂

I had a disastrous oil change today. I only drained out one of my drain bolts (the one on the back right side of the engine) at first. After draining that one bolt, I put 1 and 1/4 quarts of oil in the bike. And then, "OH CRAP!" I realized I had only drained that reservoir.... I thought maybe if I drained one bolt it would also drain most of the other? But I wasn't taking any chances so I drained out both bolts this time and started over. I then put 1 and 1/4 quarts back in and finished up. I checked the oil level window, and it looks like the oil goes over the window? This bike has no dipstick which sucks. I took the bike for a 10 minute ride and stopped and held it upright and it still looked like it was over the window. Where is the level supposed to be? Is it supposed to be over the window? I don't think I put too much, if I did please let me know. I ALSO CHANGED THE OIL FILTER. Thanks!

Beware. Long story long. Juicy horror bike story. Learn from my mistake. DONT BUY WITHOUT TITLE! Once upon a time.. I rode my brothers Chinese 125cc bike before Xmas 2020 and was instantly hooked. Eager to ride again, I went shopping. I couldn’t afford new (so I thought), so I ended up testing out so much used trash. Eventually found an affordable and running 2006 CRF250R on OfferUp. Drove 60 miles to check it out. Owner was hesitant to sell from the go and once it was out the garage it wouldn’t kick over. I thought great another waste of time. He asked if we’d help him bump start it. But once it went, it WENT. He was asking $2300. Said it had a new Wiseco crank & piston and was just cold to start. It was a Real clean bike but I did notice there was a small leak from the shift shaft.. Also noticed the chain had at one point ripped through and caused some damage to the crank cover and interior frame. Nothing serious I thought. I had a mechanic friend on FaceTime listening and looking over the bike while it idled. He said it sounded good. Once it was warmed up I killed it and was able to kick it over 1 time and run it around the neighborhood for 5 minutes. Before cashing out and loading it in the truck the seller tells me he misplaced the CA title during the move (we in AZ) but he would provide a “Bill Of Sale” (come to find out is useless unless notarized) and help w title transfer. With the required repairs and no physical title, I low balled him down to $1500. He wasn’t budging until I pulled out the $10 bills stack.. inching close to xmas I’m sure it helped persuade him. As we loaded it in the truck he said with tear full eyes he’d buy it back if I ever needed to sell it. I thought I was getting away with a deal, little did I know I just inherited a curse from hell. Once I got it home I couldn’t kick it over for the life of me. With no one around to help me bump start it, it sat in my yard waiting to be touched. New to bikes, I grabbed the manual and watched 20+ hours of YouTube before deciding to tear it apart. I went and bought an air compressor and a boat load of tools. Off came the plastics, seat, sub frame and carb. The jets were clogged and it needed a thorough cleaning. Seals were still good. Then the first of many horrors began. I removed the chain guard and found the real leak! The crank case knob that holds the chain guard was busted off! What was left was a tiny hole in the crankcase. It was just enough to spit out a few drops of oil but over time I knew it was going to be an issue I’d have to take care of by removing and splitting the case to replace it. For now, JB weld would do. With the carb refreshed and shining, back in it went. To my surprise still wouldn’t kick over. For two weeks I kick it over until my calf is tripe in size. Still nothing. The parts guy at the bike shop suggested checking the valves. Back to YouTube I went. A week later the top end is off and I’m searching for shims. Exhaust L & R are to spec .010, L intake is .005 and the R intake has zero clearance. I remove the current shim there and it clears to .016 (waaay to much clearance) but all the compression is back and it fires right up. Quick Carb adjustments and its idling perrrfect. “FINALLY, what a great investment” I thought! I called Honda and asked what shims would work, they told me it’s too big of a clearance for shims and that if it’s running to “just ride it!”, “but eventually it’ll need a valve job”. So off I went, tearing up the desert. Man this bike was fast. “And I did it myself”, Id say to myself. $400 in gear and Three trips later, it was still running like a champ. Then I had the great idea of getting it titled and registered. The MVD passed inspection, no stolen record, no liens, no salvage title! Temp plate and registered! I Received my tags and began the rest of the title process. A week later I return to a different MVD office to pick up my title. They process my application and while waiting for the print out I’m approached by the police wanting to know where I stole the bike! I show proof of purchase and registration and ask what the hell are they talking about. The MVD has already inspected the bike and registered it to me. The fuzz say that while processing the title, MVD noticed a stolen vehicle report coming out of CA from back in May 2020. But how! How did it not come up when they registered it to me a week ago! The police ask where the bike is and I said at home. When I arrive home a new set of officers are waiting at my door to “recover the stolen bike”. I’m appalled. I ask for proof of this report and confirmation of the VIN. They said they didn’t need any so long as the CA authority dispatcher confirms it. While waiting for the tow truck, the officer tells me that he’d sure love to have a nice dirt bike like mine. Didn’t think anything of it until later.. So off they went with my bike. I began the process of hunting down who &%$#@! this all up. I head to the MVD where the original inspection was passed/performed. They reprocess the title paper work and VIN and tell me they do not see a stolen report! They process and print me a duplicate title and tell me to go get my bike from the tow yard! Ecstatic, off I went to get my bike. At the yard I show my ID, registration and my title. Exactly what the sign on the wall says is required to recover property from the yard. The guy at the desk desk says this is an unusual circumstance and will have to have the bike inspected, that it’ll be a few weeks but if it passes ADOT inspection the bike would be returned without fees. In the meantime I make a report with ADOT and ask if they can expedite the inspection process. I also contact the confiscation officer who tells me I may never see the bike again because the investigation could take years. I also speak with the CA law enforcement office who took the stolen vehicle report and confirms the VIN.., but also tells me that the person who made the report was not the register owner! Bwaaa tf! in the meantime I speak with an Autotheft Authority Agent who tells me this is a unique case that is really fishy and that I was not at fault, that the MVD and reporting police agency screwed up. They suggest it could have to do with insurance fraud and suggest I continue to press on and investigate it in attempt to get my bike back. Two days later, an ADOT enforcement agent calls me to tell me the bike passed the VIN inspection, again. I ask if I can get my bike back, they say it’s up to the yard but they don’t see why not as I am the registered and titled owner. When I return to the yard they say they spoke with ADOT and are giving the previous owner 2 weeks to come get the bike. I argue that I just spoke with them and they have no right. The yard manager tells me if I continue to fight this he will make sure I never get my bike back! At this point I’m so pissed! But must be patient.. I patiently wait the two weeks and return to the yard to pick up my bike (02/04). Upon arrival I see the yard manager on the side of the building sitting on my bike. I enter the office where I’m told I must pay for the tow and storage fees. The yard manager comes in and sits there pointing his camera at me (picture attached). I argue I’ve the fees, then pay them and load up my bike. That night at home I inspect the bike. It had rained a bit over those two weeks so I wanted to make sure nothing had happened while it sat outside. The bike kicked right over, Idling just like before. The next day I take it for a test run. 30 minutes into my ride I hear a ”tink tink” like a rock kicking up into the engine, then the bike seize’s up. The Kickstart won’t budge. I immediately think of that &%$#@! yard manager sitting on my bike on the side of the building. I walk my bike 3 miles back home. Today I plan to pull the engine and begin the inspection. I really hope I don’t find any evidence of sabotage. If anyone has a PDF service manual they can email me, I would be greatly indebted to you and will donate to your beer or oil funds. Thanks for reading my story. All comments and suggestions welcomed.

My 2006 yz450f is bogging coming out of second gear. We installed a mid body kit, new seals and jets (leak jet: 50, pilot jet: 42, main jet: 165, Fuel/Air screw: 1.5 turns out), and also installed a R&D power bowl. The bike sitting on the stand sounds perfectly fine, doesn’t bog, but you throw it in 1st gear, it doesn’t bog as much, but 2nd gear 0-1/2 throttle it starts to die, starts losing power and running roughly.

hey everyone, new to forum, i have some questions about setting up my forks. my bike is a 2006 crf250r, im 65kg 175cm, i mostly ride enduro, the suspension has stock springs 0.45kg/mm. so my question is what to do to soften the forks? for my weight the bike's suspension feels waaay to stiff, i got the clickers on full soft both rebound and compression. i just opened the forks to change the oil. should i change the mid/base valve stacks? if yes which shims should i remove? should i aim in getting more float by removing some shims from midvalve? or should i go for softer springs maybe? my shims stacks: base valve: 11 30mmx0.10mm 1 30x0.10 3 30x0.10 1 25x0.10 1 29x0.10 1 28x0.10 1 27x0.10 1 26x0.10 1 25x0.10 1 24x0.10 1 23x0.10 1 22x0.10 1 21x0.10 1 20x0.10 1 19x0.10 1 18x0.10 SPACER 30,5mmx2mm 1 16x0.20 1 11x0.20 1 12x0.10 1 13x0.10 1 14x0.10 1 15x0.10 10 16x0.10 MID VALVE REBOUND: 3 16mmx0.30mm 1 11x0.20 1 12x0.10 1 13x0.10 1 14x0.10 1 15x0.10 1 16x0.10 1 12x0.10 1 18x0.10 2 20x0.10 COMPRESSION FLOAT=0,35mm COMPRESSION: 6 20mmX0.10mm 4 17X0.10 3 10x0.20 Thanks a lot in advise! 🙂

Okay so the title is a little vague. So it was having trouble idling and even starting when I first bought it about a month ago for $2k. So I did a rough clean of carb, looked up on YouTube, Forums, Etc on how to do it. I only cleaned jets with carb cleaner and sprayed around the float bowl area and such, so not too extensive. Did that and I took it out to a park, It would start up right away mostly, few kicks sometimes, but when I got it started, I had to keep the choke on. Right when I was ready to go fast and go up to 3rd and 4th gear I'd switch it off and it would work fine and sound fine and everything, but when I slowed back down and coasted around 1st gear i'd pop it back out again because it sounded like it was going to do. I have some videos if people would like me to link to them. So after that I decided to take it apart and replace spark plug with OEM NGK R0409B-8, replace main jet from a old 170 to a new 170, replaced pilot jet from a old 40 to a new 42, and kept starter jet the same just made sure that wasn't clogged, ordered a new adjustable fuel screw and used that. and it was still having a little bit of problems! I just started up today and the day before today. It would run only with choke on, if i twisted throttle in neutral it sounded pretty good, no gun shot noises or anything, pretty smooth. If I tried to take choke off it would die immediately. So I started it back up again, took around 6 kicks.. So again with choke on it sounded like it was starting to lose power and RPM's would drop so I'd twist throttle a few times and it would stay idling.. then after a small amount of time, start to sound like its about to die again... so I would rev it up again, and repeat.. Fuel line isn't clogged, flows fine. I tried fuel screw everywhere between 1 and 2 turns out.. I checked valve clearances, and I'm no expert but from the videos I watched the slipped underneath intake and exhaust with only minor force. So I'm lost.. Maybe float bowl is messed up? Should I just do a COMPLETE carb rebuild from videos I've seen on youtube, like this one -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AXb9UprT30? Or what? It's getting annoying taking it apart all the time, I jsut want it to start up quickly and run well!! Thank you! Austin, TX, Elevation 600ft, where I ride its around 900ft

I just bought a 2006 yz250f yesterday. It has excellent compression, and is fast as hell. However, when I rev it in neutral/with the clutch pulled in, the bike revs up nicely but takes about 5 seconds to rev down! It's like the throttle sticks but the cable is returning fine. The condition is called hang idle to my knowledge. I tested for an air leak and sprayed carb cleaner on the air boot to check for an air leak already. When the carb cleaner was sprayed in one spot, the idle went up SLIGHTLY but I don't think this was because of the carb cleaner because it wasn't a significant change. I have not been into the carburetor yet and really want to avoid that but I can if need be. What could be wrong? Basically, my bike takes FOREVER to rev down and this could be dangerous while riding if my RPMs stay high when they shouldnt. Any help/ideas appreciated! Thanks.

I have a bad leak on my left side radiator (not cap side) and I need to know if radiators off of a different bike would fit mine. $435 CAD is a little too much for me to pay for an OEM radiator so I'd like to see what my other options are. Other suggestions would be helpful, aftermarket brand-wise.