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Found 34 results

  1. I have had my 2008 sxf 250 for about 6 months now and have only had about a month to ride it before I had a serious accident and then it snowed. I 've realized that this bike had no low end torque and hoped there is a easy way to fix this, I 've heard a bunch of ways to fix it and wanted to know if any of you know what the best method is, changing the cams , putting an R&D carburetor bowl with the adjustable accelerator pump on it, FMF exhaust system, jetting it differently? I also have a very bad bog when the bike warms up to operating temperature, I 'm thinking its getting too much fuel, the accelerator pump was played with from the guy before me. Let me know what you guys think. Thankyou
  2. Hey! My name is Kyler. So recently my bike overheated like 3 times, then finally one day it quit on me. After draining the oil, it turns out there's shredded metal everywhere. So I tore it all down. Now I'm not sure whats the problem. So far all that I found is the little rectangular reed valve was missing 1 out of 2 screws, and around that area down there is where I found the most of the shredded metal. also, I'm not sure if its a problem but the actual shaft on the crank has the slightest bit of play. Mainly I just don't know what to replace so please help! I don't want to put it all back together and not replace the main prob. Thanks in advance!
  3. My dad and I have two XR650Ls, one is a 2005, the other is a 2008. We've been trying to get the carburetor tuned, but we've been having some trouble finding the right way to route all the hoses. Both of them have had Dave's mod done, and they've been uncorked and have an FMF Powercore 4 slip on exhaust. They're jetted at 55 and 158 at about 6,500 feet above sea level. Fairly often, when I'm cruising around 40 mph, the exhaust pops and the bike loses power for a split second. That's the main problem that I've noticed. Also, on my bike, if I let off the throttle without pulling in the clutch, it pops a ton. I know some popping is normal, but it seems like it's a bit excessive. If anyone has any tips on routing the carburetor hoses, or any other tips to get them running right, it'd be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  4. Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
  5. Hello All, Last weekend at the track I noticed that when I was cruising around the pits there is a very annoying miss/hesitation around mid-throttle or any constant speed. Also, it seems to get worse the warmer the bike gets. The issue also seems to go away when I am accelerating rather hard. When I pull the hot start in with the bike running it revs high. I know this is a race bike and it is made to be ridden hard all the time, but this is getting to the point where it is almost embarrassing for myself to listen to when cruising around the pits and track. The carb was recently cleaned 6 months ago. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  6. Ive posted my problems in the 200 club, but my issue doesn't need to be cluttering up that thread. The Problem: About 3-4 weeks ago, I have noticed that all the way up in the revs, the bike kinda sputters and cuts out. Power down low is not effected and the bike idles/starts just fine. Not erratic, but when I open it up, it makes this noise and the bike loses power. It almost sounds like a 4 stroke rev limiter tbh. What I've done: I have changed jetting, gone leaner and richer with mains, needles, and needle pos. Jetting has remained the same and this wasn't an issue before. I was able to hit max speed no problem before. But did anyways to see if it would do anything. I have taken the cylinder off to clean the powervalve. I did that 30 hours ago when I did my top end, but did it again to make sure. Put it back together to Andrew Cookseys video on YT. I have checked the powervalve linkage in the inner clutch cover. All the ball bearings were in place where they should be on the timer. I replaced the actuator pin that connects the arm and the centrifugal timer. I had an aftermarket 1 way valve gas tank thing on my gas cap. Took that off to see if it was causing a vapor lock. Nope. I have clear fuel hose from the tank to the carb. There is gas flowing. I am going to today take off the carb and deep clean it and check all the ports and what not to make sure they are not plugged with stuff. I have no idea where to look now after the carb. I guess it could be an electrical problem but I really hope not.
  7. Hi guys, I have EC 250 2008 racing and I have kind of rattle when idling and sticking idle. I set my mixture screw 1,5 turn out from fully closed and idle screw a lot in. Bike idles really fine no matter if cold or hot, but when I blip the throttle idle sticks higher and remains until I put gear and loose the clutch a bit or plug exhaust with my hand, than idle is back at normal speed. Can it be because air leak? I have sprayed chain lube on carb manifold and no change, so there is no leak, but maybe crankshaft seal?? Although I have rattle on idle that I think is normal for 2T but maybe not. I have very similar rattle on Husqvarna WR 125 which is after engine rebuild. Is it normal or not? Maybe rattle from reeds? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIytJVgRp44
  8. I have a 2008 Honda CRF450R that has been sitting for about a year. I got it out the other day to get it ready for spring. I drained the fueltank, carb and replaced the airfilter. Yes I know I should have done that before I put it away! Anyhow, the bike starts on choke like normal but once it's warmed up and I take the choke off, it dies....instantly. I tried to cheat and only took the jets out with the carb still on the bike cleaned them and reinstalled. Bike still acts the same. Right now I have the carb off and I'm going to clean it but can anyone tell me what this problem could be. I feel like its the pilot jet but I know it's clean. Any advice or things to look for? Thanks!
  9. So I have a 2006 crf250x I rebuilt the engine myself, had a maintenance shop trouble shoot it to see if i did it right or if i did something wrong and they said everything was perfect. So now i just rebuilt the top end and had the maintenance shop perform a leak down test to check if i resurfaced my head correctly and if i had good compression. Results came back to me saying that yes indeed i have no leaks and i have good compression... They also said my exhaust valve clearance was good but my intake had 0 clearance, they quoted me for $250 to have them do it so i instead just took it home and did it myself the bike reads (.003"in) to large from the spec clearance on the left intake and my right intake reads in between the specified clearance (.005"-.001"in)0.12-.03mm) my question is and ive already tired, will it not start with one valve having too large of a clearance? Yes its getting fuel yes it has compression(or at least its capable of sealing compression), yes it has spark and yes the timing it 100% correct.
  10. Hello all, finally got all the materials to replace my top end on my 2008 crf450r. Just wondering if anyone who has done it before has a specific order they recommend? What I mean is replace piston then pull flywheel and put a the new cam chain on? Or leave the jug on to pull flywheel? Or no special order is needed? Also shimming the valves, should that be last? Thanks!
  11. I was checking on my piston not even 5 hours after rebuild and I came across this mess. Does anyone know how this could of happened?
  12. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  13. So here are my problems and I would love to ride but I can't... Recently I purchased a 2008 rmz250, bought it off a friend who never had it running proper, said it backfired alot and didn't ever run proper. When I got the bike i tore everything apart to try fix the problem, I have done the following -ultra-sonic cleaned the carb, all routes are clear -header had a gash, initially thought this was the problem installed a new one -Redid timing to proper adjustment -new coolant, oil and cleaned all inside case -hot start rebuild, thought this was the problem too as it would be sucking air in past carb -checked carb boot, no rips -ran seafoam After all this the bike still won't idle proper off of choke, on choke it runs fine, blips out when I give it throttle when it's not on choke and makes a hissing sound, I have come to the conclusion it can't be timing BC then it wouldn't run proper on choke, it might be the tps I will test that and update the thread and I will check valve clearance, I am somewhat p'd off I always get stuck with some unfixable vehicle, would love any feedback, thanks in advance
  14. I have recently replaced the water pump seal on my 2008 yz 125 and after putting it all back together I started the bike, it started 3rd kick and I let it idle for a short while and when I pulled the clutch in and put it in gear it jerked forward and stalled. The clutch seems to not be engaging at all. I bump started it and while rolling pulled the clutch in and it didn't engage at all. Can anyone help?
  15. Hello My 2008 Te450 Husky it’s a handful, last week I went for a ride and the bike just shut down . today I’m working on it and find out that my TPS cables are broken . if someone has a bike like mine I wish to see a photo of the plug of the TPS please . so I can fixed it .
  16. Hello! I got a ktm exc 125 2008, but it doesnt feels like its running as good as other 125's. the "hit" is coming but its low power at low torque. I think its lower than other 125's i have seen. For example: If i try to wheelie in 3rd gear at middle torque, the bike gets up, but looses power and goes back to the road again. I opened the cylinder this winter and assemblied the power valve, but is it possible that i have mounted it wrong when the "hit" is coming? I think its just wrong adjusted. How do i fix this? Please help :D
  17. Ok I have a 2017 yz250f and I need a rear wheel I found a set.. But they are for an 08 yz250f and I wondering if anyone knows if I can runs those? Do I just have to swap out the bearings or will they not work at all. Thanks
  18. New to Thumper and new to the '08 KLX 450r. I purchased this bike a few months ago. It was showroom condition. Took it to a very reliable mechanic that I've known for years and he said that the bike probably had less than 10 hours on it. Speedo/tach/hour meter computer no longer worked. Previous owner said he bought it from a dealer new in crate 4 years ago (hard to believe I know) and that he was the only one that rode it. Dealer was saving for himself. Probably hiding it from the IRS or something. Previous owner said he was selling it because he never rode it, parts would be hard to come buy, value was dropping because it's not available in the US anymore and he didn't won't to deal with it. If it means anything, he was in his late 50's. I also took it to a local dealer mechanic and he said the same thing my mechanic said. Based on the condition of the bike and what everyone said about it, I couldn't resist and dropped $4,000 on it. Maybe a little to high for a bike that old, but based on the condition, good reviews and how easy it is to work on, I figured it would be a reliable bike that I could trail ride on for a few years. It's a little heavy, especially carrying my fat ass around. I'm 6 ft pushing close to 300 lbs and 47. What are the basic first mods that everyone does, what mods are recommended in conjunction with other mods to get the best performance out of. Seller included a Jd jet kit just never installed it. What brand of mods is the best to get. I realize that I could search here and there through the forums, but just would like a list on one posting. Sorry about that, but thanks for your input and advise in advance.
  19. Hey! I'm currently in the misft of "rebuilding" the top end of my bike after hearing a tick. Clearances were fine, needed Tappets or Cam Rockers and valves. So I was stupid enough to take off the Cam chain tensioner before I took off the cam gear. So with the tensioner off I need to take off the Cam Gear. Well, my buddy didn't hold the socket tight enough and the whole chain skipped notches. Now I have a piston that is maybe 1/10 away from tdc and the valves 1/10 to tdc. I need help on timing the engine correctly. Aswell putting in the Camshaft in correctly. Do I turn the Piston to TDC and close the valves shut? Than put the Cam Gear on, than put the chain on, than the tensioner. Getting the piston it-self to tdc wont be hard, but I NEED help putting the valves to tdc and the cam in correctly? Is there a manual for this? Is there marking for this?
  20. Hello Team: I just bought a 2008 WR250r that has only 567 miles on it. It's bone stock and runs fine. Sounds a little weak when it tries to start up and when I turn the key it I don't hear it priming up. It's been sitting in a garage for years. I know it needs new tires (they are barely worn but have turned plastic-y from age) and the bike is super grimy around the typical areas from sitting idle for a long long time. All recall work performed. Fuel pump and Stator.. I'd love some advice on what my priorities should be to get this puppy a fresh start to life. What are the priorities here? Should I take it in for inspection? What would you all do? Also, can you recommend a great cleaner to get this puppy de greased and spangly again? (I'd like to give it a good cleaning first) Any input would be greatly appreciated and thanks! TMD
  21. I have an '08 200xc. I absolutely hate gnarly pipes. I like the KTM/FMF pipe (which is pretty much a fatty pipe I think) but now they are really hard to find. Some pipes say they will fit 06-10 or 03-04 or 04-05 or 06-07 or 00- 06 or 00-05 or 04-15... you get the idea. Whats the real deal here? Ideally I just want a fatty pipe on this bike or just something that isn't focused on low end torque.
  22. I got a 2008 rmz 250 the kick starter is froze up and at one point I got to kick it twice and locked up again I took the clutch side off and checked the gears and one of the gears won’t spin without prying with a screw driver I don’t know what gear but I have a picture of it it’s the gear closer to the water pump u can only see half of it I think the clutch basket gear meshes with it help
  23. Hey all, Just the outer day I desisted to do some suspension work on my 2005 400exc, so I started searching trying to figure out whats on my orange machine. In all the chaos and confusion an idea came to mind... What if there was a master thread for all suspension of KTM dirt bikes, from early models to present, one place you could quickly find your bike and the suspension it sits on. It might already exist but I have spent hours looking for it and am in doubt. So hears the deal, I know you can look up a certain fork or shock and find loads of info and reviews about it so i'm not asking for that here, I just want to list the year, model, what it floats on, and changes in setup. If you feel so inclined to leave a comment or two about the suspension that would be great, but lets try to keep the list neat so its easy for others to find the bike they are looking for. This is what I have come up with so far I think its most of the major differences. Please correct me if i'm wrong. 2002-2006 All KTM, 2007-2016 EXC: Use an OC (open chamber) WP USD 48mm fork, with a PDS rear. The oc fork tends to be soft from the factory but loads of tuners have experience with this fork and I hear it can be set up great for a reasonable price. 2007 XC/XCF/XCW/XCFW: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2007-2014 SX/SXF, 2008-2013 XC/XCF: WP CC (closed chamber) twin chamber fork , linkage rear. the forks have an air bladder that needs to be checked and filled instead of a pressure spring. Are more expensive parts wise and harder to set up. Great fork for advanced motocross guys or those who just want to most aggressive set up. 2008-2016 XCW/XCWF: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2014 XC/XCF: First model to get the 4CS fork, uses a linkage rear. The 4cs fork is designed to be lighter but has a verity of performance problems one being little bottoming resistance. Lots of mixed reactions from users. 2015-2016 SX/SXF/XC/XCF: first year of sx/sxf to get the 4CS fork, linkage rear. 2017-present (2018) SX/SXF/XC/XCF: has an AER 48mm air fork, linkage monoshock. The AER fork is insanely light (over 3 pounds less than the 4cs). 2017-present (2018) XCW/XCFW/EXC: WP XPlor fork, PDS rear. I don't really know anything about changes in shocks, and there must be some stuff about forks that I missed, for example the OC fork has been used form at least 2002 until 2016 there must have been some changes during that time. If you happen to know anything about that or changes on the other bikes please share. Cant wait to hear what you all have to say. Happy trails
  24. So I have a 2008 yz450f and I would like to add some LED lights to it to make it street legal. Mainly just a headlight and a tail light and turn signals if I need to (which where I live hand signals work). So where I need help is getting power from the stator to a battery. Wiring from a battery to anything else I got and understand and don't need help with (but recommendations are welcome). So my questions are. What type of power is coming from the stator. AC or DC? Will I need a regulator or rectifier? How do I wire something from the stator to charge a battery? What would that wiring look like? Would this stator http://www.rickystator.com/product/stators/yamaha/yamaha-yz450f-35-watt-lighting-stator-assembly-06-09 work? Anything else I should know? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
  25. So... clutch works fine the hole day riding then i go back home to do a oil change, first one after top end rebuild. After that i leave my house and ride for 10min then suddenly clutch loses pressure completely but comes back little bit after few pumps. So then i check the fluids, and there really isn't any. I fill it up and pump the air out of the system so no more air coming out but sill lacking pressure. Now here it starts getting interesting, when i hold my clutch it engages the clutch but after 5 sec holding it in it loses all pressure. Also it feels very soft when the clutch lever is all the way out when i start pulling it engages. I have bled it the correct way and got all the dirty stuff out. There are no visible leaks and i have replaced the slave gasket. All help is appreciated
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