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Found 44 results

  1. I'll start this post by saying hi to the 2T Austrian crowd. I'm a little unknown to these threads because I used to frequent the WR450 side of the house... but like many of us, the need to mix fuel gets the better of us. Anyways, on with the post. About two months I started looking for a mini to compete against a whole herd of 150R's that were dominating our mini class with Victoria Supermoto. Thing was, I couldn't see myself riding red (plus they're super expensive around here), so I started looking for viable alternatives to the "norm". After a couple weeks of searching, I found this little gem on a local buy/sell/trade site. I knew it had potential against the herd.. but I wasn't too sure how much it'll cost me in the end. The things that attracted me to the bike.. 1: it had better components that the honda, 2: it was lighter, and 3: I kinda missed riding a 2T (1st bike in 1994 was a 1981 RM125). 4: 6 speed vs 5 So, I made an offer and the seller agreed to the price, so I took it home later that day. Day 1 was a long as I did a complete bike disassembly to survey for damage or items to replace/repair before bringing it to the track. Luckily the bike started first kick cold, and the previous owner had lots of fairly recent receipts for top/bottom end work carried out by a reputable shop locally, so I figured the motor didn't have to be opened up yet. Then I started scrubbing/cleaning.. I'll admit, my CDO (alphabetically correct OCD) took over and things started to snowball a bit. 😛 About 2 weeks later and a massive hoard of new shinny KTM parts later, I rebuilt the clutch M/C, bled the clutch, installed new EBC sintered pads (F/R), swapped brake fluid to Motul RBF660, replaced all chain sliders, repacked every bearing with grease, repacked the silencer and installed some Bridgestone BT45 tires on the factory 19/16 wheels. That was enough to do it's initial shakedown at the track. Now armed with the knowledge I learned from the outing, it was time to modify and address any issues I encountered while trackside. I started with the feeble factory 220mm front brakes.. and ordered the KTM 260mm hard-parts BBK. Next I moved on to gearing.. I quickly realized that a 13/51 wasn't ideal.. So I promptly ordered the factory 14/46 gears to boost my overall speed. Now, I could confidently get up to around 110 km/hr and stop almost as quickly without any sign of brake fade. Next, I ordered all new plastics, factory 2012 decal kit, throttle cable, SXS CDI, clutch basket, clutch hub, and new steels and fibres. Then, while I was ordering parts one of the parts guys asked what I was using the bike for.. and he showed me the hard parts catalogue from 2009 that had a factory Supermoto conversion kit for the 85 SX. I hate him.. now I had to have it. Unfortunately.. I was informed that everything was discontinued from KTM.. So the search began. About a week later, the latest batch of parts showed up, so I got to installing everything. Here's how it sits right now My search continues. So, to be continued..
  2. I’m sure there are questions about this already, but I am in a hurry to buy a set of Warp 9 supermoto rims for my 2009 Wr250F. However, the rims came off of a 2009 Yz450F and I’m not sure if the hubs will fit on my Wr. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
  3. I bought a used 2009 XC-W a few months ago. Things got a little fun and laid the bike down which damaged the mapping switch (PN K&S 12-0102). Ordered a Siccass replacement... and it doesn't match the carb jetting. Runs like crap. Looked up the K&S part and it's listed as a Kill Switch and not a map switch. I'm new to bikes and don't know the best path forward; order a K&S? Try and re-jet to match new switch (friend says it's beyond my skills right now) or take to shop and spend money I don't want to. Advice or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
  4. I have a 2009 Kx250f monster edition that I purchased preowned a few years back. Third ride on the bike I dropped a valve and cratered the cylinder head. Purchased and installed a brand new factory Cyl. head and valve train (excluding cams) installed all new parts, 5 rides at the track the bike was running like a scolded ape, 6th ride I landed off a100ft table top, gassed it on landing then hard on brakes for next turn, the bike died when I pulled the clutch in, took me over 5 minutes of kicking to get it restarted and once it started it was backfiring and died 4 times on the way to my truck... ever since it runs like hammered dog poo. I've pulled the carb off 3 times and cleaned it, pulled cylinder head to check valves, reshimmed valves, checked timing, tested all ignition components, compression is spot on. Even had a shop rebuild the carb just for good measures. No matter what I try this thing will not run properly. It will run on choke (barely) but will not idle off choke, which leads me to believe the pilot circuit is clogged.. but 4 carb builds later in an ultrasonic cleaner should have done the trick. I'm stumped, anyone out there have similar issues or any insight on what to try next? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
  5. Chrisjmattc

    Chrisjmattc

    Hi Can I plug a diagnostic into my 09 450 to get fault code? Been told by the bike shop that they can’t do it because it doesn’t work like that so he wants to charge me £25 an hour to manually diagnose it. Is he trying it on????? Fires up and cuts out after 30 seconds any ideas?
  6. Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
  7. Ive been looking around for a flywheel weight (or heavier flywheel) for my 2009 CRF450R, and have read a lot about them being around. But have not actually been able to find a store or seller on ebay that has them. Am i missing something? Or do i have to start making the damn thing? Side note, ive also been looking into ECU flashes to take the jerk out of the starting power, but it sounds like the guys who used to do it dont anymore?
  8. Just bought this 505, not running. Owner says it sat for six to eight months but was running (of course). Cleaned the carb, drained the bad gas, bought a new battery. It has a trail tech lighting kit on it, I assume a high output stator for the lights. Starter has clearly been replaced as it is cleaner than everything else on the engine. New battery will barely turn over the engine once, maybe twice and it's done. Charged the battery and tried again. Same result. Removed all the trail tech stuff, lights, switches, and extra wiring. Same result. Checked the battery and even tried jumping it with the car. Nothing has a result on spinning over the engine. This thing makes me miss my CRF450X. Reading through posts on here, I am given to understand that it might be the exhaust cam decompressor, so I took the head cover off and have examined the cam... it looks fine. The decompressor will fall back into place when I manually pull it back from the cam. The pin on the end of the cam looks fine. How can you tell? The KTM service manual is very non descriptive on when it needs replaced. Some of these posts say replace the cam, replace the starter, etc. Should I replace the cam? Do a compression or leak down test? Replace the spark plug? Check the valves? Not sure where to start and would love some experienced advice.
  9. I am working on a 2009 KTM 250XC. I am replacing the steering stem bearings. I pressed out the steering stem shaft to remove the lower bearing. When I went to press the stem back into the lower clamp I noticed a punch mark on the top of the stem. It turns out that this bike has a eccentric shaft that can be used to change the fork offset. Can anyone tell me what the stock setup was? Punch mark towards the front of the bike or rotated to the rear of the bike. Would it be better to set the bike up for more stability? I understand these older XC’s tend to be a bit twitchy.
  10. Hi all, I am after a bit of advice on how to cure the running problems I’m having on my 2009 250 EXC-F The problem I am having is the bike is difficult to start once hot both off electric start and kick, spluttery when giving small blips off idle and will sometimes stall and also gets lots of pops, bangs and occasional flame on deceleration Mid range and top end performance feels good Carburettor is clean and currently set to stock factory settings and I have also tried a taffmeisters jetting kit with not much effect I get very little response from the fuel screw and the bike will continue to idle when all the way in and revs don’t seem to increase when backing the screw out incrementally to 2.5 turns out Valve clearances have been checked and are in spec Leak down test shows less than 10% leakage Air filter is clean along with new CR9EIX plug Any advice would be much appreciated Cheers Adam
  11. Hello there, today I just finished putting my bike together for the second time now after it keeps seizing up I originally pulled it apart because the shift drum cracked and transmission was damaged the bike ran fine before I pulled it down it never missed a beat. I went to put it back together after I rebuild the transmission and put new crank barings in when I went to start it, it just wanted to seize up I thought this might have been the Piston because it seemed a bit old at 168 hours so I got a new one put it all back together same issues it idels fine but when you go to accelerate at wants to seize up, then it gets hard to kick. no it's not the timming like 10 million people have said it's some weird bottom end issue could be the crank or rod even tho they were perfectly fine before it was pulled down. when it seizes up you just put it in gear and pull it back and it's fine again so confused on wtf is happening please help. cheers blake
  12. I have a 09 yz250f and i can seem to find a flywheel puller can any of you send me a link to one
  13. I purchased a used 2009 CRF450R, in Sept. of 2017, which was used for flat track, as I am using it, also. I have been inspecting and freshening the engine this winter, and as I was putting the bottom end back together I discovered that the Gearshift Drum installed appears to be from a 2013-2016 CRF450R; the left end of the Gearshift Drum is flat with a small hole in the center, it does not have the raised collar with the notch in it, and the Gearshift Drum's left end, which the 2009 Gearshift Drum has, which accepts/engages the Pin on the Gear Position Switch's rod. I did check continuity as described in the Service Manual, but did not note exactly, what position the Switch's Pin was inn before I began moving it and noticing continuity and open. I recall that it tested as described in the Service Manual; 1st and Neutral = ground-light green/red, 2nd = ground-gray. Now, my thinking was ... "the Gearshift Drum has no way to 'actuate' the Gear Position Switch, as it's end is flat/flush, no groove/notch. .. So, the Switch is basically, 'open circuit', not sending anything to the ECM. The switch is now, basically, a 'plug'." .. "I can eliminate the wires from the Gear Position Switch to the Main Wire Harness; one less set of wires to deal with." ... So, I cut the wires off of the Gear Position Switch, Dremel, cut off the switch's rod/pin and applied a thin coat of Yamabond to the Switch's inside, face. Reading this 6 year old, post: This got me to wondering should I, once again, have left well enough alone. Given the fact that I did not make note of the position of the switch's rod/pin when I removed it, if either of the wires are not connected to the harness/ECM, is this going to affect Fuel / Ignition / Starting? .. Given the fact the Gearshift Drum can not actuate/engage the Gear Position Switch, I would think I would not want the switch's position to be Permanently/Constantly set in either of the 1st-Neutral or the 2nd gear positions. So, unplugging it, [or even, eliminating the wires from the switch as I did], should be like the switch's position being in 3rd-5th gear. ... Hoping it will not make it more difficult to Kick Start or affect idle or performance. ... I mean, I wouldn't want any 'signal' to the ECM that the transmission is constantly, in 1st, Neutral or 2nd.
  14. Anyone know where I can get a shorter kick starter for 2009 YZ250F - want the faster spin to help starting. Happy to look at another bikes kick starter or modify stock version or buy an after market shorter version. Just cant find any options at the moment.
  15. I’m sure there are questions about this already, but I am in a hurry to buy a set of Warp 9 supermoto rims for my 2009 Wr250F. However, the rims came off of a 2009 Yz450F and I’m not sure if the hubs will fit on my Wr. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
  16. So I have a 2006 crf250x I rebuilt the engine myself, had a maintenance shop trouble shoot it to see if i did it right or if i did something wrong and they said everything was perfect. So now i just rebuilt the top end and had the maintenance shop perform a leak down test to check if i resurfaced my head correctly and if i had good compression. Results came back to me saying that yes indeed i have no leaks and i have good compression... They also said my exhaust valve clearance was good but my intake had 0 clearance, they quoted me for $250 to have them do it so i instead just took it home and did it myself the bike reads (.003"in) to large from the spec clearance on the left intake and my right intake reads in between the specified clearance (.005"-.001"in)0.12-.03mm) my question is and ive already tired, will it not start with one valve having too large of a clearance? Yes its getting fuel yes it has compression(or at least its capable of sealing compression), yes it has spark and yes the timing it 100% correct.
  17. Just bought an 09 te250 wondering if the UFO hukit609-999 plastic kit will fit ? Or if anyone know which kit will fit let me know . Thanks
  18. Hello Kawasaki friends, So I just traded my 2007 Honda CRF250r for a 2009 Kawasaki KLX250s and I'm pretty excited. I'm new to Kawis and dualsports all together, but the bike seems to be in pretty good shape. In general I was seriously underwhelmed by the power of the bike compared to MX bikes I've ridden in the past. Over the winter I'd like to get the bike stripped down to get this thing pumping out some more power. My plan is to open up the airbox, rejet the carb, and drop the front sprocket down to a 13t to start. I'm in the process of putting money aside to get the 351 kit and an aftermarket exhaust. The bike is about to hit 13k miles and I'm hoping the new top end and cylinder with give the bike a lot more life. I know these motors are supposed to be bullet proof, but I'm curious if you guys think I should do any other work to the motor because it has such high miles. I found this jet kit online after reading a few other threads about these modifications.. Anyone have any opinions on whether or not this is a good kit? https://www.partsgiant.com/p326378-dynojet-carburetor-jet-kit?m=494921&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIteT-hMyi1wIVQkCGCh3hnQ1lEAQYASABEgKscfD_BwE&f=111842 Lastly, the previous owner decided to paint some of the plastics with some low quality brown paint. No idea what kind of paint it is.. does anyone have any ideas on how to get it off the plastics or do you think my best bet is to just buy a new set. Thanks in advance for the help!
  19. hello everyone out there name is Luke, I'm new to the forum so hopefully this is in right spot. I own a 2009 yz450f and I just put new Tusk clutch plates and heavy duty springs in it. It shifts between gears nicely and back into neutral pretty good but when I pull the clutch in and slap it into first from neutral it seems to clunk. It's not a real bad clunk, but I don't remember how smooth it was when I first got it and I'm wondering if it's common or normal for it clunk a little bit going from neutral to first? Thank you for your time have a great day peeps!
  20. Hi guys , how you doing , i got a problem with a YZ450F 2009 , Carb is missing, i was checking on ebay to get one new or used, but i found one for a YZ250F 2009, it look the same as the 450 , but obviously jets change, i wanna know if this carb is going to fit MY 450 , THANKS , if somebody knows something about this.
  21. Im looking at ordering aftermarket plastics for my 2009 XC-F. I am curious if there is any differences between the SX and the XC-F plastics besides the gas tank?? Would SX plastics fit my XC-F??
  22. Ok I have a 2017 yz250f and I need a rear wheel I found a set.. But they are for an 08 yz250f and I wondering if anyone knows if I can runs those? Do I just have to swap out the bearings or will they not work at all. Thanks
  23. I own a 2009 kx250f and recently rebuilt the motor. I put a new top end in and replaced the valves and shimmed them to spec. The bike ran great for roughly 12 hours then one day at the track in the middle of riding it started to bog and backfired really loud. I continued my lap and it repeated the same thing then the bike just died. It then wouldn't start so I bump started it and it ran for about 3 seconds then died. I took the bike home and rebuilt the carburetor and put a new spark plug and fired it up and it ran for about 3 seconds again and died. I don't know where to go from here except taking it to a shop. If anybody has any ideas i'd highly appreciate your opinion!
  24. My Yz250f has had shifting trouble for a few months and has trouble finding neutral while the bike is running. I enjoy wheelies on the bike which wears down my clutch and when I’m stopped the bike still wants to creep forward like the clutch isn’t being activated completely. I have adjusted the clutch cable with the big knob at the top of the cable on the handle bars but it either won’t activate all the way when I let it all the way out or I adjust it and it wont activate when I pull it all the way in so I was hoping there was another way to adjust the clutch on the bike and I was hoping the shifting problem is just being caused by the clutch not activating completely. Please help! Thankyou!
  25. hey always here reading but this is my first post, i have a yz450 2009 model. clutch lever works fine cable isnt ripped or anything however when i pull it in the clutch is still disengaged, i opened the cover and found that only one plate was moving so i removed the basket and lightly filed down the groves put it back together and all the plates seemed to be moving together. Pulled the clutch in and moved the back wheel and it felt like it was dragging.started the bike up next day put it into first gear and it jerked. Took the cover back off and pulled the clutch in and not all the clutch plates are moving again. what could the issue be? the clutch and friction plates aren't worn, nothings broken. i can upload pictures or videos if needed. TIA
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