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  1. This popped on a local Craigslist this morning and I went ahead and put a deposit on it for the guy to take down the ad and let me get the cash together. 50 hrs, 1100 miles, comes with a steering damper, guts seat, taller (yeah, taller - he's trying to find the old ones) sprockets, shock bleeders and a nice foldy mirror. $4,750. Very clean in person, a few nicks. Drove it, man the last big thumper I drove was a Husky 610 back in like 2003 - really powerful, night & day, maybe that was weight or just me getting older, I don't know. I do know I'll need to lower the seat height 1 to 2 inches. Onto questions: -Lowering seat height a huge deal? It looks pretty straightforward with the adjuster. -Dude will knock off $250 without the damper. I've never owned one. Any thoughts? -My commute is 10 min with a short 5-mile highway burst - I would be riding to work maybe once a week. Chasing around gravel roads and trails maybe 4 days a month. Not a whole ton of really intensive or dirty riding. Given this usage, thoughts about the maintenance interval? -Lastly, this seems like a heck of a deal with the hours on it but made it hard for me to valuate. Sound too good to be true / just about right / or should I have some wiggle room? Thanks all, appreciate all of the good reads on the site.
  2. Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
  3. Hey folks been lurking on here for about two months. Been searching and searching. Before I ask for your advice, let me give you some background. I have a 2006 crf250r and a 2011 crf250r. My son is ready to move up from his TTR125, he enjoys riding my 250's. We mostly trailride. Here's what I'm planning to do, sell or trade the 2006 for a 230x or 250x. But the 2011 I'm thinking about modding it for trail. I'm looking into a recluse clutch as everyone has mentioned. However, I'm not sure which model to get (thinking the core3.0). I'm also looking at getting an 18" rear tire/rim. But I'm not sure what size tire to get. I have a Yosh full exhaust on the 2011 and want to make sure I'm not rubbing. So can someone give me some idea of what size tire to get when I order the rim? Both bike have Renthal sprockets and DID X ring chains. The 2011 is fairly new. So what sprocket size should be optimal for slow to med trail use? Not rocks etc, just ditches and tight turns (Resembling finger lakes if anyone has ever been there). Thanks, I am sure all of these questions have been beat into the ground, but I haven't found any definitive answers yet.
  4. Hello everyone. So this is a bike I bought recently, it’s a 2011 KX250F, first of their fuel injected models, it is single port injection. Everything about the bike is fine, start easy, runs amazing, plenty of compression, recently reshimmed valves and fully serviced. But there is one issue with the bike when you’re on it hard, it seems to have a limiting problem. I’ve taken a video and uploaded it onto YouTube, the link is here; In order of sequence, the first rev on limiter is neutral about 4/5ths on the throttle and it limits the way it should. The second is full throttle in neutral, it kind of hesitates and splutters. The third is in gear which clutch pulled in full throttle, limits too slowly, almost like it’s starved of fuel. The 4th is in gear, clutch out, full throttle, limits sporadically, again, like it’s starved of fuel or misfiring. The bike doesn’t seem to limit properly in gear with 4/5ths throttle like it does in neutral either. anyone have any ideas on what this could be?? It has me stumped. Cheers!!!
  5. So I recently got my bike licence so I can legally go riding in national parks and what not. And therefore I needed a bike that was able to be registered. I recently came across a KTM400exc which is in good condition, however it has 9,000kms on it. I was just wondering if people think this is too many kms or not?
  6. Buckle in this is a long one. Any advice is appreciated! I have a 2011 RMZ 250 that has done me very well for 4 years. Has been a very reliable bike with lots of power. Last year it started to act up a bit, slightly less power & became more difficult to start, especially cold (side note: it’s a Suzuki so it’s never started great cold but usually 3 or 4th kick was the case). Still ran okay though & fiddled with the fuel screw a bit which seemed to help with the starting/power issue for the rest of the season. This past winter we pulled it apart, put a brand new piston in, checked the valve clearances, moderate amount of carbon build up on the valves which we cleaned off, and put in a new spark plug which is also in spec. Bike still wouldn’t start great cold but was starting on about the 8-10th kick and power seemed to be improved although not 100%. I’ve take it for quite a few rides now and broken the new piston in and am having more issues: -won’t kick over cold at all but bump starts just fine -will kick over first or 2nd kick when warm but NOT when the bike starts to get even slightly hot -very little top end power. Bottom of the gears seem to be full power and the hotter the bike gets the less power I have in the top end -bike began to backfire quiet a bit when hot -won’t idle in gear when hot Any advice on what to replace/trouble shoot next? I had a buddy tell me it could be a worn out injector so that’s what I’m looking at replacing next. Thanks!
  7. Hey guys I’ve been having a issue with my bike and need help. I took it out riding and went through a river and the engine died and wouldn’t kick over. So I tipped the bike straight up drained the water and have flushed out the engine with 6 litres of oil and every time I start it up, it turns milky. Anyone know what’s really going on or what I can do.
  8. While riding last weekend and started having shifting issues with my 2011 KTM 300 EXC. I've 'Googled' the ? out of the issues but haven't found someone with exact same problem and or with a fix. I have tried the Ryan Despaws fix suggestion from Youtube for issue 2 ,as it was nice and simple while shift shaft was out for inspection, but no luck. As I'm having these 2 issues I feel they might be related and after all my research am leaning towards a shifting fork issue. Thing is I'm no mechanic so before I split the engine cases I'm hoping others may have had a similar experience and found a solution. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Issue 1: Shift Shaft Freeplay (for want of a better term). As per video below (hope link works) the shift shaft moves freely in and out of the engine and can move far enough in to jam completely on the outside of the shift star. I removed the shift shaft and nothing is out of place, broken or appears damaged. Issue 2: When downshifting on my last ride it would stick or not shift until the revs were low/mid. Not long after I had issues upshifting the same as downshifting but also where it would change but the gear lever appeared slack (not centred). I removed the clutch side in the hopes of finding something simple and 't have to split engine cases but nothing stands out. While I realise the engine running, oil, load, etc, makes changing easier the video below demonstrates almost exactly the issue I was having under load, whether at speed or stationary.
  9. Hey guys, I’ve got a 2011 kx250f and when I go to kickstart it, it pops and shoots flames out the exhaust. The only way it starts is if you bump start it behind something for a minute or two. Any ideas on what it is..
  10. Hi Guys. I'm in the market for a different bike as mine isn't cutting it for me anymore. I have a 2010 KTM 250 XC and have the opportunity to buy a damn near brand new 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. I've heard a lot of mixed things about the 350, and was wondering what the owners of them have to say about them. I've read a lot about different years but haven't heard much of anything about the 2014. Can someone help me out?
  11. Recently bought a 2011 kx450, first time owning a 4-stroke, efi for that matter. The bike has a tough time starting, with the idle advancer pulled out I can kick and kick forever and it wont start, it'll even backfire after 10-20 kicks. Ive tried without the idler and the only way it starts is with a throttle blip, even then im taking my chances because it will either start, kickback, or backfire. The guy before put on a full fmf system with no re-tune as far as I know. I really don't think its the valves because it runs fine other than that. It also runs pretty damn hot after 2-3 minutes of warming up. Ive checked the plug and its brown for the most part except for a little white at the electrode. Would a full fmf system really screw with starting that much or am I missing something? Would a bad sensor cause this either? Even after its been warmed up it will start hard again.
  12. So I'll give a quick recap of my problems. I bought my bike from a buddy who got it from a buddy so I don't really know what was done to it. I got it right at 51 hours so a few weeks ago I did a valve adjustment, fork seal replacement, and did all the minor maintance like oil change and spark plug, and everything seemed to be running fine. The first day I took it on the track after the valve adjustment it was ridding great until my clutch cable snapped, replaced that and went back to the track the next weekend. This is where the problems really started. On my third lap, I came out of a corner and tried to give it gas and it bogged down for half a second then came right back up. This kept happening out of every turn, or every time I slowed down and got back on the throttle. So I called it a day. The next time I went back, it was running fine until the third lap, and then it started bogging down again. I took it back to my truck and road it on flat ground for a bit and it only got worse. Instead of occasionally happening, it bogged down every time I gave it throttle. But then it will idle just fine. I've pulled the fuel pump out and hooked it up to a battery and it pulled gas out just fine. Any idea of what's going on? Please help! Thanks. -Trey
  13. Ive almost completed a rebuild, the bike was recently purchased and needed some gearbox problems sorted out, I've sorted that out its just i have accidentally bent one of the piston rings and need some advice on replacing the rings if anyone can help me. I am unsure what brand of piston it is, stamped on the underside is VP and and on the top exhaust side is 13-27 22335, inlet side is B 76.96. I have tried googling these numbers to find a brand and model as I'm guessing piston rings are specific but have had no luck, can anyone identify this piston? Thanks, Luke
  14. I traded my 2008 WRF250F for a 2013 CRF250R last July. It was working great until I started having clutch problems. It would creep really hard when in gear with the clutch engaged, and sometimes it will die when I shift it into 1st still with the clutch pulled in. I took out all the friction plates and disks, washed them in a parts washer, soaked them in new oil, and did a transmission oil change. After this it was fine, but then it started again the next day. Plates and discs are a performance brand and show no signs of wear, and has a Wiseco clutch basket from 2016, and a newish clutch center. Could it be because of grooves in the clutch pressure plate in the holes where the springs go? Or possibly because the clutch cable is one year off and is longer then it should be? Im really stuck here guys and have no idea what to do. Really want to get it fixed because I might have the opportunity to trade it for a REALLY nice bike. Help!
  15. I'm interested into buying a dirt bike which is budget friendly.I was interested in a used ktm 85 sx 2011 which has been taken care of pretty well. But I dont know if a 85 cc is the correct bike to buy, because I'm 6' feet and weigh 150 lbs or( 1,85cm and 70 kg). My budget is around 2k for the bike and 1k for equipment (helmet, boots, etc.)
  16. Ok I have a 2017 yz250f and I need a rear wheel I found a set.. But they are for an 08 yz250f and I wondering if anyone knows if I can runs those? Do I just have to swap out the bearings or will they not work at all. Thanks
  17. Hi everyone, So I recently purchased a 2001 YZ250 with no Engine. I am looking to make it in to a single track enduro bike. I am right now looking for some what of a complete engine and have come across one recently pulled motor out of a 2011 yz250. To my knowledge the only thing different about the motors from pretty much 99-Present is the swing arm pivot. I guess they changed sizes in 02. I was wondering if anyone knew if it is possible to interchange that 2011 engine into an 2001 frame? Thanks!
  18. I am stuck! Bought a Suzuki DRZ 125 L 2011 and trying to source parts. Every website I come across shows 2003- 2009 then jumps right to 2012 Every site seems to act as if the 2010 and 2011 doesn't exist? I find random parts 2003-2009 that fit when compared, or some to the KLX 125. Managed to find Procircuit pipe labelled as 2003-2012 at least that fit reg and the L , but finding random things such as replacement parts are never listed. I am a pretty thorough internet searcher and I am unable to find any correlation to why these particular years do not appear to be listed on any part listings as compatible? I know the dif between the 125 DRZ and the L, but things like brake levers etc., would matching them with a 2009 DRZ work or will any year for most parts work from 2003 and up? even ebay searches are not coming up I would appreciate any insight as the online companies I normally order from only show parts up to 2009
  19. Hi there, ended up doing my first ride in complete darkness on my 450exc in trails. The factory setup was absolutely terrible, I replaced the bulb a week ago just to have know it’s a new one but I haven’t really done any night riding until now, I’m wondering who has any good suggestions of a new headlight system for the bike. Preferably nothing that gets me into replacing my stator. Any help would be much appreciated, cheers
  20. I have a 2011 xcf 250 and haven't had any troubles. We took a little break from riding then as we got back on the bikes I went to use my rear brake and the pedal was stiff. I slammed it down and it un-stiffened So I thought it was fine. Next corner I barely touch the pedal and it locked the rear tire and got stuck down. I had to kick the lever back up and then it worked fine the rest of the day. Why would this of happened?
  21. I'm looking at upgrading bike. Had previously ridden an 04 TC250 but now that I'm looking at getting back into riding I prefer to do more enduro riding. Upgrading to a bigger bike is on the cards as my motocross days are long gone. Decided I'd like a light bike not dissimilar to the tc250 with lower gearing more power and rego. =te310 I have found three options for sale 2009 @1950ks,not registered 2011 @2000ks 48hr not registered 2013 @1985 72hr registered all look to have been taken great care of your owners but just wondering what sort of price I should be looking at offering , what I should look out for and steer clear of any input appreciated cheers
  22. Hello guys. Just completed adjusting the IN and EX valves on my 2011 YZ450f. It still seems a little hard to start. In fact, when I kick it, here and there, I can hear a small pop. Here is the procedure I follow: Pull choke out Give the throttle a couple 2-3 cracks slowly kick the starter a few times Then give it some good cracks. Most of the time, it will not start right away. If I leave it sit for about 15 seconds, It then seems to fire right up on a few quick. Any reason why that would be? Also, I am not sure the previous owner had the idle knob set correctly. Does anyone know a great starting point (X turns out) to try? I have a works connection hour meter, but I do not think that it is very accurate on reading the RPM. The manual says that idle should be somewhere around 1900-2100. According to my hour meter that would almost put it into a stall (again, dont think my hour meter is that accurate). Thanks!
  23. Hey all, Just the outer day I desisted to do some suspension work on my 2005 400exc, so I started searching trying to figure out whats on my orange machine. In all the chaos and confusion an idea came to mind... What if there was a master thread for all suspension of KTM dirt bikes, from early models to present, one place you could quickly find your bike and the suspension it sits on. It might already exist but I have spent hours looking for it and am in doubt. So hears the deal, I know you can look up a certain fork or shock and find loads of info and reviews about it so i'm not asking for that here, I just want to list the year, model, what it floats on, and changes in setup. If you feel so inclined to leave a comment or two about the suspension that would be great, but lets try to keep the list neat so its easy for others to find the bike they are looking for. This is what I have come up with so far I think its most of the major differences. Please correct me if i'm wrong. 2002-2006 All KTM, 2007-2016 EXC: Use an OC (open chamber) WP USD 48mm fork, with a PDS rear. The oc fork tends to be soft from the factory but loads of tuners have experience with this fork and I hear it can be set up great for a reasonable price. 2007 XC/XCF/XCW/XCFW: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2007-2014 SX/SXF, 2008-2013 XC/XCF: WP CC (closed chamber) twin chamber fork , linkage rear. the forks have an air bladder that needs to be checked and filled instead of a pressure spring. Are more expensive parts wise and harder to set up. Great fork for advanced motocross guys or those who just want to most aggressive set up. 2008-2016 XCW/XCWF: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2014 XC/XCF: First model to get the 4CS fork, uses a linkage rear. The 4cs fork is designed to be lighter but has a verity of performance problems one being little bottoming resistance. Lots of mixed reactions from users. 2015-2016 SX/SXF/XC/XCF: first year of sx/sxf to get the 4CS fork, linkage rear. 2017-present (2018) SX/SXF/XC/XCF: has an AER 48mm air fork, linkage monoshock. The AER fork is insanely light (over 3 pounds less than the 4cs). 2017-present (2018) XCW/XCFW/EXC: WP XPlor fork, PDS rear. I don't really know anything about changes in shocks, and there must be some stuff about forks that I missed, for example the OC fork has been used form at least 2002 until 2016 there must have been some changes during that time. If you happen to know anything about that or changes on the other bikes please share. Cant wait to hear what you all have to say. Happy trails
  24. Hey guys, does anyone know if a WR450F 2012 FMF Slip on Exhaust will fit a WR450F 2011? If not, does anyone know what other year/model exhaust will fit a WR450F 2011? I currently can’t find an WR450F 2011 Exhaust in my country. thanks👍🏼
  25. I picked up an 09 kx250f as a winter project and it had a chewed up head, and is unrepairable. I was online and found a 2011 kx250f head and was wondering if it would fit. Thanks.
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