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Found 26 results

  1. I’m a DIY’fer all the way. But I’m wondering if I can change my Factory Connection springs (front: from .48 to .50, rear: from 6 to 6.7) on my 2012 YZ250 without changing other parts (other than obviously the seals for the forks) and if so what parts and where to buy them? There’s only a few parts available in the FC site that I could find. I already ordered my springs. What other type DIY service can be done? Any advice/guidance will be greatly appreciated! #yz250 #factoryconnection #doityourself #suspension #onabudget #frontforks #rearshock #spring #kyb
  2. Brady Brittain

    HELP 2012 Wr 450 getting hot FAST

    Here lately, probably the past month or so, my 2012 wr450 started running a lot hotter than usual. It happened right around the time I put some header wrap on my head pipe so I thought that was the issue and left it at that. Well I deliver for a company on my bike and its been warming up here in texas the past few weeks ~80's I decided to take the header wrap off because it felt unbearable riding with how hot this thing is now. So I take the wrap off and the bike still gets stupid hot stupid fast. Now when I say stupid hot I don't mean boiling but temps, but way higher than it used to in a shorter amount of time. Before this issue it could be 60 degrees or so outside and my trail tech fan would never kick on. Ever. The fan temp was set to trigger at 175. Now even when it is this cold out (60's) it can hit 175 in maybe a mile of easy riding. I ride on the street so it's constant air flow pretty much all of the time. The bike does have Engine Ice in it and it is full in the rad and appropriate amount in the reservoir. I started it this morning to see if the coolant was circulating with the cap off and the level would kind on bubble (probably not the right word for it) but it would kind of go up and down maybe a half inch or so every second or two. So I assume the pump is working as it should? Not sure but i've got a buddy who is bringing his stock water pump over and I am going to drain and clean my coolant system with white vinegar and water 50/50 to clean and flush all the junk, if there is any, out of the system and then try his pump setup. I checked my oil and it doesn't look milk shaked inside but I do plan on changing the oil tonight to see if there is anything going on in there which will tell me if impeller shaft seal is bad etc etc. Also, When it's in the garage and running my temps on my GYTR tuner says the engine temp is 150/160's when the trailtech fan kit is saying 180's but once the bike is off they seem to equalize out within 2 or so degrees from eachother. Not sure if that tells me anything but this is far all I know off the top of my head currently, If things change or I remember I will update the thread. The bike has 320 hrs on it probably 98% street riding as this is my daily driver. It is not losing coolant, leaking or burning. Valves are all in spec, checked last night (for the first time lmao) GYTR ECU and FMF powercore4 pipe Oil should be good but I am going to do it anyways tonight. Coolant getting flushed and cleaned along with a "new" water pump this evening aswell. If anyone has some tips or things to check for etc let me know. Thanks in advance!
  3. idratherberiding

    2012 WR450F - Bought used

    Just picked up a 2012 WR450F with a claimed 3,800km. It looks like its been put through its paces and like the owner enjoyed crashing into lots of shit What are some of the common mods for this year? Grey wire mod? AIS/Smog removal? EFI mapping? Here are the issues: Electric start doesn't start the bike. It turns over but rarely starts. I end up having to use the kick. I've ridden a 2011 that never had this problem (Still carbureted). I'm going to check the valves but not sure what else to do. The EFI choke doesnt help E-start, hot or cold. The "check engine" light came on during the first ride. I stopped riding for a bit, started back up and it was off. But I didnt ride anymore after that. I called the previous owner but he claimed it never happened to him. Again, I'm going to check the valves. Also it runs very hot. Maybe a temperature issue. I will do a flush and run engine ice. See if the light comes back on. Hoping to not have to take it to a Yamaha dealer to see what codes its giving but will probably have to? I dont own a tuner. So far those are the only issues that alarm me. I will probably get a compression tester and do a test just for kicks. So if anyone is familiar with this EFI, 5 valve head style Yamaha, let me know what to look out for, what to do, how to make it run better etc. Right now its not running as nice a a 2011 with a full FMF system and quickshot accelerator pump mod. But I'm holding off on getting a slip on as I'm not sure I even want to keep the thing now. Any advice welcomed, thanks!
  4. Parker4570

    2006 kx250f newer plastics?

    Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
  5. I just bought this bike and decided to go through it and make sure everything was happy. I was cleaning out the carb today, following the great video posted by Rocky Mountain ATV MC. Everything was going great until I was cleaning the bowl with carb cleaner and noticed these two SMALL pieces in the bottom. I have no idea where these go. The service manual doesn't show them. The video doesn't mention them. Do you guys know where they belong? Thank you! Note: Fuel screw is just to show you relative scale of these pieces.
  6. KeyKeeper

    525 EXC exhaust

    The can on my 06 525 exc looked horrible (scratched and tarnished) and the end cap had been modified and sparky removed. Created quite the "tumble" effect in the end section of the can. Had plenty of bottom end but would not rev out at all. Just went flat on the big end. I already jetted it up which helped some but still wouldn't even get close to approaching the rev limiter. Not that I want to bounce off the limiter but when I tried to open it up on the straights, I had to short shift it to keep it climbing in speed. So on a whim (couldn't find hard proof), I picked up a 2012 450 sx-f can off of flea bay for cheap with free shipping. I msg the seller and got some "rough" dimensions but I lucked out. It bolted right up. Fit tighter on the header pipe than the factory can but I'm guessing the original was just whooped from being so old. Bike will pull the to the limiter no problem now and never goes flat on top. Very quiet idle and cruise but if I get into the throttle aggressively under load, its quite a bit louder but not obnoxious loud. Just need to add a sparky and I'm all set. Just an FYI for others out there with older EXC that don't want to drop a lotta cash on a slip on. I payed $80 free shipping.
  7. I own a 2012 Kx250F that I would like to make street legal if possible and I recently saw Rocky mountain I believe sells these battery packs that sit in the airbox for bikes without batteries that looks too good to be true and a headlight and turn signals like a conversion kit basically and I was curious as if anyone has had luck with those or if there junk it would be nice to make my bike street legal for short trips or just have lights for trail riding with friends that already do if possible any tips on converting it?
  8. Anyone have any tips on rebuilding a bottom end on a 2012 WR450? It's been like 30 years since I rebuilt a bottom end on a 2 stroke, and I have a friend local who I can fall back on if I have issues. I recently broke the case where the clutch arm actuator is, and the seal is leaking pretty bad (Chain guide broke off from the swing-arm and came around). I tried to replace the seal, but no luck. Off the top of my head, I have approximately 500 hours on the bottom. The head was rebuilt a year ago by fast heads, and at that time, I also replaced the timing chain, piston rings, cam chain tensioner. I haven't checked the hours and this is 1 of my 2 bikes, so pretty sure the parts mentioned can be re-used (maybe max 30 hours). I was thinking rings and wrist pin bearing max for the top. For the bottom.. Re-use the crank, or get a new one? I see you can buy the Rod, Pin, and Bearing for about half the price, but then I'd need to find a machine shop to put it together right. What about the Oil pump? Looking at the parts diagram, there is a pump assembly and a rotor assembly.. are both these wear items? You guys pull the motor out with the head and then disassemble, or take the head/cylinder off before removal? Do new cases come with most of the bearings and seals installed, or is that something I'll have to buy and install? Thanks.
  9. Anyone here have any experience with replacing their OEM shock bladder valve (needle type) with an aftermarket or OEM Cap from another year / model with the schrader valve type? Every time I service my shock, I say I'm going to do it do it (usually after it's done, and then I forget about it until the next time I do it). Looking to replace my 2012 WR cap, and I noticed it is a little close to the exhaust, so wondering if anyone had issues. The cap is 52mm, and the Factory Connection cap (BCK52BRN-01) replaces the cap on several models. Some of the models look like they came with the valve type cap. Anyone want to share their thoughts on experiences with replacing with other model OEM (and where to find it), or with the Race Tech or Factory Connection?
  10. idratherberiding

    2012 WR450 YAMAHA

    Anybody have this bike? What do you guys do to it to make it run better/faster/cooler... Slip on, mapping, other mods? And has anyone done a valve check on this thing.. How much shit do you have to take off to get that valve cover off??! Lol
  11. Arctic Pride

    Exhaust bolt size

    Looking for the size of the bolt in the stock mid pipe just above the kick starter on a 12 500 exc
  12. I have just bought a new FMF Gnarly for my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W, it works great but i want to use it to its full potential to get my moneys worth. So i need some advice on jetting my carb for the Gnarly pipe. Any ideas on jetting for my bike? Thanks
  13. idratherberiding

    WR450 cam timing. 2012

    Can anyone confirm that this is true regarding cam timing:
  14. Hi there I have a quick question and just was hoping to get some feed back and see what people are running out there for spring rates. (I know this has been beating to death - but the fact of the matter is i rarely ever see someone respond to these that lists there weight what they are running and their sag settings) Below is a little information about myself. Bike: 2012 KTM 250 XCF-W w/stock springs. Myself: 185 lbs w/out gear Gear: boots, knee braces, pants, jersey, roost guard, helmet, hydration pack w/ tools and 1.5 L of water Riding: I live in new England and mostly be ride single track, rooty, rocky terrain, some hare-scrambles and a enduro or two. So I ordered a Factory Connection FCW-2 per factory connections recommendation, the shock i will not have re-valved this year due to a budget. was this the right call?? Next question is...my fork has the stock springs in it which i believe are the .42's (or so i have been told by factory connection) Some people have told me that these springs will be fine for what i am doing, obviously not if i went out and Rode MOTO with it. Others have said that i should have .44's in it and some people like race tech have suggested .46's which i think are way too stiff. I am looking for some general opinions on this and keep in mind my weight listed above. My goal is to have optimal sag settings , I feel that giving the bike weight vs. the spring rate vs. the rider weight you should be able to just say "this is the spring" i need to obtain for optimal freesag and optimal rider sag. Obviously valving comes into play as well. Cheers, Chad
  15. What is this Red Top Jet Needle without any other markings on it? When I bought my 2012 YZ250 a few months back it wasn’t long before I took the carb apart and noticed it had a JN with no markings on it. The only thing I could ID on it was that the top/Head was painted red. I tried replacing the JN with others (EW, EJ, CW) for ID reasons but nothing seem to work as good as the Red Top JN. It just seems to be the magic JN! Need to know for future reference and recommend it to anyone!!!
  16. While looking over my transmission shifts forks, gears, etc., the only thing I saw was some strange pitting on the face of some of the gears (only on 1). What are your thoughts, some kind of material defect? Has around 350 hours on it, and everything else looks good. My buddy says to change it. It looks like it's 3rd Gear 5TJ-17131-20-00
  17. MotoXRacer_19

    KTM 350 XC-F Reviews

    Hi Guys. I'm in the market for a different bike as mine isn't cutting it for me anymore. I have a 2010 KTM 250 XC and have the opportunity to buy a damn near brand new 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. I've heard a lot of mixed things about the 350, and was wondering what the owners of them have to say about them. I've read a lot about different years but haven't heard much of anything about the 2014. Can someone help me out?
  18. idratherberiding


    Anyone with a 2012 WR450F remember what size shims were in there originally? I want to know how much valve stretch I have without taking them out and measuring. Mine are all between 1.78mm-1.85mm thick. Thanks
  19. Julain8Wilson

    FMF Gnarly jetting for KTM

    I have just bought a new FMF Gnarly for my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W, it works great but i want to use it to its full potential to get my moneys worth. So i need some advice on jetting my carb for the Gnarly pipe. Any ideas on jetting for my bike? Thanks
  20. I have a 2012 YZ450 and i did a much needed deep cleaning with a pressure washer and it started fine and ran i put it in the garage and started to polish it for pictures and cleaned and oiled the air filter and let it sit over night like usual and then the next morning i changed the oil and rode it up and down my alley way to warm it up and get it circulated and as i came back to my garage to talk to my neighbor i shut it off while i was moving with the clutch in and as it shut off i heard a odd noise and didn't think too much about it at the time and when i went to start it again,i had found out that my kick starter was not going past half way and the top half had no compression and i tried putting it in gear and moving it but all i got was some metallic noises from the inside of the cylinder and so i put it back in my garage and took the clutch and clutch basket out and there didn't seem to be anything wrong on that side so i took the magneto cover off and removed my flywheel and made sure the key was there and nothing was abnormal i put the flywheel back on and was torquing it down and i had the rear wheel locked up and it would still spin and the flywheel would turn with force and the timing chain would move a link and make a crack/ metallic noise,not sure what is was but i got the flywheel torqued and somehow the crank and everything was moving and i could kick it normally but still not even trying to start. i proceed to take the plug out and made sure it got spark and it did, the plug was a little darker black then normal and it was bone dry so i put it back in and tried to start it,still no luck..So i have come to you guys in need of some help or advice.Any help is much appreciated -TE
  21. Jacob Edwards

    2012 CRF250R Dual Exhaust

    Hey for anyone with a 2012 crf250r do you know where I can get a dual exhaust or maybe a conversion kit for stocks? Either would be fantastic information, thanks in advance.
  22. Hey all, Just the outer day I desisted to do some suspension work on my 2005 400exc, so I started searching trying to figure out whats on my orange machine. In all the chaos and confusion an idea came to mind... What if there was a master thread for all suspension of KTM dirt bikes, from early models to present, one place you could quickly find your bike and the suspension it sits on. It might already exist but I have spent hours looking for it and am in doubt. So hears the deal, I know you can look up a certain fork or shock and find loads of info and reviews about it so i'm not asking for that here, I just want to list the year, model, what it floats on, and changes in setup. If you feel so inclined to leave a comment or two about the suspension that would be great, but lets try to keep the list neat so its easy for others to find the bike they are looking for. This is what I have come up with so far I think its most of the major differences. Please correct me if i'm wrong. 2002-2006 All KTM, 2007-2016 EXC: Use an OC (open chamber) WP USD 48mm fork, with a PDS rear. The oc fork tends to be soft from the factory but loads of tuners have experience with this fork and I hear it can be set up great for a reasonable price. 2007 XC/XCF/XCW/XCFW: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2007-2014 SX/SXF, 2008-2013 XC/XCF: WP CC (closed chamber) twin chamber fork , linkage rear. the forks have an air bladder that needs to be checked and filled instead of a pressure spring. Are more expensive parts wise and harder to set up. Great fork for advanced motocross guys or those who just want to most aggressive set up. 2008-2016 XCW/XCWF: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2014 XC/XCF: First model to get the 4CS fork, uses a linkage rear. The 4cs fork is designed to be lighter but has a verity of performance problems one being little bottoming resistance. Lots of mixed reactions from users. 2015-2016 SX/SXF/XC/XCF: first year of sx/sxf to get the 4CS fork, linkage rear. 2017-present (2018) SX/SXF/XC/XCF: has an AER 48mm air fork, linkage monoshock. The AER fork is insanely light (over 3 pounds less than the 4cs). 2017-present (2018) XCW/XCFW/EXC: WP XPlor fork, PDS rear. I don't really know anything about changes in shocks, and there must be some stuff about forks that I missed, for example the OC fork has been used form at least 2002 until 2016 there must have been some changes during that time. If you happen to know anything about that or changes on the other bikes please share. Cant wait to hear what you all have to say. Happy trails
  23. Have a 2012 ktm 250 sxf that only starts with the choke out,hot or cold, just cranks cranks cranks then after like 30 seconds it might fire then run great. I have changed the spark plug, checked the valves and they were in spec, changed the fuel filter to a 2013 one, battery seems decent. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
  24. idratherberiding


    I believe I have a short to ground somewhere in my stator. The 3 pins give more resistance than the spec. It's giving me 1.3 - 7.4 Ohms, the spec range is 0.5 - 0.8 Ohms. When I put my meter on continuity and test each pin to ground, there is continuity (it beeps). It's not supposed to have continuity to ground, right? I have one lead on the pin, the other either on the frame or on the - side of the battery. I'm referring to the 3 pin connector that comes from the stator and plugs into the rectifier regulator. Has anyone taken off their flywheel side cover on this bike? It looks like its more difficult than on a YZ since there is the starter gear on this side. All the videos I can find are on bikes that are kick start only, less stuff on that side of the engine. Looking for some tips and resources to taking that case off, aside from what the manual says. Also, when I get in there, I'm planning to take the whole stator out and then test the pins on the bench. If it's no longer shorting to ground I should have a different resistance reading.
  25. drewkuze

    Kx250f burning oil?

    I recently bought a 2012 kx250f. The guy I bought it from said he never adjusted the valves, but the previous owner bought a new engine in 2014. The bike is burning oil (I haven’t had a chance to do an oil change yet so idk how much) but it burns on startup, and when the bike is revved high quickly. It isn’t hard to start, every time I’ve started it it only takes 1 kick. I’ve heard it could be the valve guides, seats, or the piston rings. Any suggestions on what it most likely is?