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Showing results for tags '2012'.
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I’m a DIY’fer all the way. But I’m wondering if I can change my Factory Connection springs (front: from .48 to .50, rear: from 6 to 6.7) on my 2012 YZ250 without changing other parts (other than obviously the seals for the forks) and if so what parts and where to buy them? There’s only a few parts available in the FC site that I could find. I already ordered my springs. What other type DIY service can be done? Any advice/guidance will be greatly appreciated! #yz250 #factoryconnection #doityourself #suspension #onabudget #frontforks #rearshock #spring #kyb -
Just picked up a 2012 WR450F with a claimed 3,800km. It looks like its been put through its paces and like the owner enjoyed crashing into lots of shit What are some of the common mods for this year? Grey wire mod? AIS/Smog removal? EFI mapping? Here are the issues: Electric start doesn't start the bike. It turns over but rarely starts. I end up having to use the kick. I've ridden a 2011 that never had this problem (Still carbureted). I'm going to check the valves but not sure what else to do. The EFI choke doesnt help E-start, hot or cold. The "check engine" light came on during the first ride. I stopped riding for a bit, started back up and it was off. But I didnt ride anymore after that. I called the previous owner but he claimed it never happened to him. Again, I'm going to check the valves. Also it runs very hot. Maybe a temperature issue. I will do a flush and run engine ice. See if the light comes back on. Hoping to not have to take it to a Yamaha dealer to see what codes its giving but will probably have to? I dont own a tuner. So far those are the only issues that alarm me. I will probably get a compression tester and do a test just for kicks. So if anyone is familiar with this EFI, 5 valve head style Yamaha, let me know what to look out for, what to do, how to make it run better etc. Right now its not running as nice a a 2011 with a full FMF system and quickshot accelerator pump mod. But I'm holding off on getting a slip on as I'm not sure I even want to keep the thing now. Any advice welcomed, thanks!
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Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
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Here lately, probably the past month or so, my 2012 wr450 started running a lot hotter than usual. It happened right around the time I put some header wrap on my head pipe so I thought that was the issue and left it at that. Well I deliver for a company on my bike and its been warming up here in texas the past few weeks ~80's I decided to take the header wrap off because it felt unbearable riding with how hot this thing is now. So I take the wrap off and the bike still gets stupid hot stupid fast. Now when I say stupid hot I don't mean boiling but temps, but way higher than it used to in a shorter amount of time. Before this issue it could be 60 degrees or so outside and my trail tech fan would never kick on. Ever. The fan temp was set to trigger at 175. Now even when it is this cold out (60's) it can hit 175 in maybe a mile of easy riding. I ride on the street so it's constant air flow pretty much all of the time. The bike does have Engine Ice in it and it is full in the rad and appropriate amount in the reservoir. I started it this morning to see if the coolant was circulating with the cap off and the level would kind on bubble (probably not the right word for it) but it would kind of go up and down maybe a half inch or so every second or two. So I assume the pump is working as it should? Not sure but i've got a buddy who is bringing his stock water pump over and I am going to drain and clean my coolant system with white vinegar and water 50/50 to clean and flush all the junk, if there is any, out of the system and then try his pump setup. I checked my oil and it doesn't look milk shaked inside but I do plan on changing the oil tonight to see if there is anything going on in there which will tell me if impeller shaft seal is bad etc etc. Also, When it's in the garage and running my temps on my GYTR tuner says the engine temp is 150/160's when the trailtech fan kit is saying 180's but once the bike is off they seem to equalize out within 2 or so degrees from eachother. Not sure if that tells me anything but this is far all I know off the top of my head currently, If things change or I remember I will update the thread. The bike has 320 hrs on it probably 98% street riding as this is my daily driver. It is not losing coolant, leaking or burning. Valves are all in spec, checked last night (for the first time lmao) GYTR ECU and FMF powercore4 pipe Oil should be good but I am going to do it anyways tonight. Coolant getting flushed and cleaned along with a "new" water pump this evening aswell. If anyone has some tips or things to check for etc let me know. Thanks in advance!
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My 2012 KTM 500 EXC wont start. I checked the inline fuel filter and removed it from the line just momentarily to rule it out. Still cranking over but wont start. I can hear the fuel pump kick in. I took the air filter off and with a new clean squirt bottle i squirted fuel into the throttle body and it started for a minute then stalled out. So now i want to get at my fuel injector and clean it. I got in there but those two philips head screws are tricky to get out. Im looking for tips on how to get this fuel rail off?
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Hey y'all, I just entered the DRZ realm a few weeks back and am just getting familiar with my steed. I purchased the bike (2012 DRZ400S 6500 miles) from the second owner who claimed "the bike is totally stock!" But after doing some research here on TT, I have found out this just ain't true. The list of mods (I think) I've found: Dunlop D606 front/rear Seat concepts Gelly ProTaper Contour bars Upgraded blinkers Upgraded small plate/light assembly Tail rack 3x3 mod So this leads me to my main question... How can I tell if the bike has been re-jetted? Also, beyond changing all the fluids, is there anything else I should check on to make sure she's in ship shape? I ride hard on mainly dirt roads and trails and I want to make sure I'm taking care of the machine so it can take care of me when I'm way out in toothless country... Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers
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Does anyone know which swingarms will fit the 2012 CRF250r? So far I've found that the part number has changed over the years: Does anyone know the different between the 52200-MEN-A50 and the 52200-MEN-A70? I took a gamble and bought a 5220-MEN-A70 from a 2014 CRF250r, but it doesnt seem to fit unless I swap out the swingarm spaces from my 2012. Are there any other differences between these two swingarms? (added a picture for clarity, 2012 on the top, 2014 on the bottom)
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Hi Guys. I'm in the market for a different bike as mine isn't cutting it for me anymore. I have a 2010 KTM 250 XC and have the opportunity to buy a damn near brand new 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. I've heard a lot of mixed things about the 350, and was wondering what the owners of them have to say about them. I've read a lot about different years but haven't heard much of anything about the 2014. Can someone help me out?
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Anyone with a 2012 WR450F remember what size shims were in there originally? I want to know how much valve stretch I have without taking them out and measuring. Mine are all between 1.78mm-1.85mm thick. Thanks
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Hi there I have a quick question and just was hoping to get some feed back and see what people are running out there for spring rates. (I know this has been beating to death - but the fact of the matter is i rarely ever see someone respond to these that lists there weight what they are running and their sag settings) Below is a little information about myself. Bike: 2012 KTM 250 XCF-W w/stock springs. Myself: 185 lbs w/out gear Gear: boots, knee braces, pants, jersey, roost guard, helmet, hydration pack w/ tools and 1.5 L of water Riding: I live in new England and mostly be ride single track, rooty, rocky terrain, some hare-scrambles and a enduro or two. So I ordered a Factory Connection FCW-2 per factory connections recommendation, the shock i will not have re-valved this year due to a budget. was this the right call?? Next question is...my fork has the stock springs in it which i believe are the .42's (or so i have been told by factory connection) Some people have told me that these springs will be fine for what i am doing, obviously not if i went out and Rode MOTO with it. Others have said that i should have .44's in it and some people like race tech have suggested .46's which i think are way too stiff. I am looking for some general opinions on this and keep in mind my weight listed above. My goal is to have optimal sag settings , I feel that giving the bike weight vs. the spring rate vs. the rider weight you should be able to just say "this is the spring" i need to obtain for optimal freesag and optimal rider sag. Obviously valving comes into play as well. Cheers, Chad
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I have just bought a new FMF Gnarly for my 2012 KTM 200 XC-W, it works great but i want to use it to its full potential to get my moneys worth. So i need some advice on jetting my carb for the Gnarly pipe. Any ideas on jetting for my bike? Thanks
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When I was changing my air filter I noticed my subframe was cracked at a weld. Should I get it re welded if so does anyone know a good place in Phoenix Az. It’s a 2012 kx250f.
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Hello, I have a 2012 txc310. I got it for my girlfriend and i ride it pretty often. Very happy with how the bike performs. Unfortunately now I’m having issues getting it started. The battery has charge, The fuel injectors engage, but when I hit the electric start it wynds but it won’t turn over. The kickstart has compression, but it won’t turn over. it was working fine all day and then tried to go for one last ride and this was happening. new to fuel injected bikes. Any insight is greatly appreciated🙏🤙
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Hey guys, I’ve got a 2012 kx250f. When I got it it had lots of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I changed the oil and it got all better. Now, when I accelerate quickly and when the bike starts some white smoke comes out. I think it’s oil, but not sure. What can be the causes of this? The previous owner said he rode it for 80 hours in total in the past year, but he also didn’t take good care of it.
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What is this Red Top Jet Needle without any other markings on it? When I bought my 2012 YZ250 a few months back it wasn’t long before I took the carb apart and noticed it had a JN with no markings on it. The only thing I could ID on it was that the top/Head was painted red. I tried replacing the JN with others (EW, EJ, CW) for ID reasons but nothing seem to work as good as the Red Top JN. It just seems to be the magic JN! Need to know for future reference and recommend it to anyone!!!
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While looking over my transmission shifts forks, gears, etc., the only thing I saw was some strange pitting on the face of some of the gears (only on 1). What are your thoughts, some kind of material defect? Has around 350 hours on it, and everything else looks good. My buddy says to change it. It looks like it's 3rd Gear 5TJ-17131-20-00
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Never ending issues! Bought a 2012 Yz250f at the beginning of this year and have been working on it and having it in the shop more than in the woods. After finally getting it back from the shop and having to have carb issues fixed and a new top end put it I noticed the clutch was slipping. Replaced the clutch plates and springs with the Rocky Mountain tusk brand and an OEM clutch cable myself. Before riding everything seemed great. Bike starts on first kick, runs off choke, while on stand I put it down in first and had the clutch in, wheel wasn't moving. Now my issue is while I was doing a test drive I have no power when I let out the clutch and giving it gas. I couldn't pop a wheelie no matter how hard I tried. Even while I'm in gear and going, if I twist back the throttle to roost it revs high and eventually puts out the power later. I've messed with the clutch cable adjustments and didn't see any results. The carb does have an R&D aftermarket bowl that I'm not too crazy about and thinking about going back factory. The crab has had a complete mid and jet rebuild on it and professionally cleaned/dialed in. What should I be looking at to fix this acceleration issue?
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I bought this 2011 rmz 450 earlier this year only have about 6 rides on it changed the oil every two rides and on my last ride it felt like it was starting to surge and I turned my bike off for a hour and I had to use some of my friends gas with octane booster and it ran good for about 5min and then started like bogging out, stuttering, missing and backfiring pretty much everything not rideable. At first I thought it was maybe the tps sensor but after checking it was set correct. I saw a form saying the stator could be burnt up so I pulled it out and most of the contacts did seem to be burnt the resistance was a little low but not crazy low. I ordered a new stator but it didn’t help at all. Then I checked the injector resistance and flow were good. Then I went for the ignition coil I tested it didn’t have continuity in the spark plug cap and the resistance on the coil was low so I ordered both and it did not improve. At first the bike would still start first kick but today it was hard to start and would not stay running. Anything will help
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I traded my 2008 WRF250F for a 2013 CRF250R last July. It was working great until I started having clutch problems. It would creep really hard when in gear with the clutch engaged, and sometimes it will die when I shift it into 1st still with the clutch pulled in. I took out all the friction plates and disks, washed them in a parts washer, soaked them in new oil, and did a transmission oil change. After this it was fine, but then it started again the next day. Plates and discs are a performance brand and show no signs of wear, and has a Wiseco clutch basket from 2016, and a newish clutch center. Could it be because of grooves in the clutch pressure plate in the holes where the springs go? Or possibly because the clutch cable is one year off and is longer then it should be? Im really stuck here guys and have no idea what to do. Really want to get it fixed because I might have the opportunity to trade it for a REALLY nice bike. Help!
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I recently bought a 2012 kx250f. The guy I bought it from said he never adjusted the valves, but the previous owner bought a new engine in 2014. The bike is burning oil (I haven’t had a chance to do an oil change yet so idk how much) but it burns on startup, and when the bike is revved high quickly. It isn’t hard to start, every time I’ve started it it only takes 1 kick. I’ve heard it could be the valve guides, seats, or the piston rings. Any suggestions on what it most likely is?
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Have a 2012 ktm 250 sxf that only starts with the choke out,hot or cold, just cranks cranks cranks then after like 30 seconds it might fire then run great. I have changed the spark plug, checked the valves and they were in spec, changed the fuel filter to a 2013 one, battery seems decent. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
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Hey for anyone with a 2012 crf250r do you know where I can get a dual exhaust or maybe a conversion kit for stocks? Either would be fantastic information, thanks in advance.
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Ok I have a 2017 yz250f and I need a rear wheel I found a set.. But they are for an 08 yz250f and I wondering if anyone knows if I can runs those? Do I just have to swap out the bearings or will they not work at all. Thanks
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I recently picked up a 2012 Husqavarna TXC 310. Bike has been working perfectly except for the fact that the E start isn't currently functioning properly. The battery it came with was completely dead and didn't even cause the starter to click or anything. I went out and bought a cheap "powersport battery" that is lead-acid and has 50 CCA I believe. It is a 12 volt battery this is it -> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-SuperCrank-Lead-Acid-4L-BS-Powersport-Battery-4L-BS/205867802 The bike runs fine off of it and can be kicked over with this in it. However, this battery is unable to electrically start the bike with the push of a button like it is supposed to. My guess is that it simply isn't a strong/big enough battery to start this bike as it can turn it over one to three times but very slowly and not enough to start the engine. Does this sound like what would be the problem? I've looked at a few l-ion batteries and narrowed it down to these few -> https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/antigravity-atz-7-restart-150ca-lithium-ion-battery https://www.amazon.com/WPS-Featherweight-Lithium-Battery-HJTZ5S-FP-IL/dp/B00DX894B2 I'm fairly illiterate when it comes to this stuff so any advice would be appreciated! I'm not sure if those are even the right batteries for the job but i'd love other opinions. Thanks!
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I found these plastic pieces around the oil screen of my 2012 400RR when I drained the oil. Anyone have any idea what they'd come off of? The only engine work that has been done on my bike have been new intake valves and changing the plastic oil pump gears to steel ones. Both jobs were done by me as I've worked on small engines professionally for the better part of the last 10 years. I just don't recall seeing anything in this engine 2 years ago that look like this other than maybe the cam chain guides. You can see that the piece in the lower right corner has a rounded curve to it. They are quite brittle as well. At first I thought it was the wax coating of the stator but looking through the oil fill, the stator seems to have never had any wax coating on it at all. Any help would be appreciated.
