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Found 29 results

  1. I was going to change the oil on my dirt bike and i was going to use Rotella T Triple protection but the only one I could find was Rotella t4 15-40w. I think its the same thing but I just wanted to make sure. Can anyone confirm this?
  2. Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
  3. I own a 2013 TXC310, and would like to hear any suggestions to make it competitive in the hard enduro scene (specifically re-gearing). -SLR Fanga dagen
  4. Hey I just bought a 2013 crf250x with no owners manual. I just want to know the oil quantities for the engine oil and the transmission oil. I have been told they fill from the same place, is this true? I thought engine oil filled on one side and transmission on the other? Thanks
  5. Hi Guys. I'm in the market for a different bike as mine isn't cutting it for me anymore. I have a 2010 KTM 250 XC and have the opportunity to buy a damn near brand new 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. I've heard a lot of mixed things about the 350, and was wondering what the owners of them have to say about them. I've read a lot about different years but haven't heard much of anything about the 2014. Can someone help me out?
  6. This is a 2013 Husqvarna TXC250r which has very light usage. Fuel injected, six speed, electric and kick start, 48mm duel stage forks... It's a fun bike that is very light and easy to ride so where are others like it? Think they made 125, 250, 350, 435? Real owners please, curious to know how the bikes are, were, for others. Thanks.
  7. Hey I just bought a 2013 crf250x with no owners manual. I just want to know the oil quantities for the engine oil and the transmission oil. I have been told they fill from the same place, is this true? I thought engine oil filled on one side and transmission on the other? Thanks
  8. Hey I just bought a 2013 crf250x with no owners manual. I just want to know the oil quantities for the engine oil and the transmission oil. I have been told they fill from the same place, is this true? I thought engine oil filled on one side and transmission on the other? Thanks
  9. Has any one attempted to install 2013 crf450x on a 2013 crf450r? I'm need to replace both my radiators and want something with better cooling. I like to trail quite a bit and I know I should have bought an x, but I found a deal on the r that I couldn't pass up. I've seen the trail tech radiator fan kits for the x and this is why I'm wondering if any has tried this in the past. Thanks in advance.
  10. hello, I'm new to this forum, hope I'm going about this the right way.... I'm new to KTM's and 4 strokes but not to the off road world. I'm about to pull the trigger on buying a 2013 KTM 500EXC with 2100 miles and roughly 100 hrs on it for $7,500. I'm a little hesitant for the fact that it's a 2013. I was looking more for a 2016 or newer because I was told that the motor design is much better?? I rode the bike briefly and from my experience nothing seems odd about it. The owner is a second owner and says he bought it from the dealership with about a 1,000 miles on it and about 50 hrs and then he updated the display to a fancier one that shows the other half of the mileage/hours on it. It seems to be ridden by him only in the pine barrens in NJ. I saw it was listed about a month prior for $8,000 and he told me he had it listed for $9,000 at one point but someone told him he is nuts so he lowered the price. I'm hoping to hear that I'm being paranoid and that it's a good deal but I need to hear it from someone who knows more about these bikes.
  11. I traded my 2008 WRF250F for a 2013 CRF250R last July. It was working great until I started having clutch problems. It would creep really hard when in gear with the clutch engaged, and sometimes it will die when I shift it into 1st still with the clutch pulled in. I took out all the friction plates and disks, washed them in a parts washer, soaked them in new oil, and did a transmission oil change. After this it was fine, but then it started again the next day. Plates and discs are a performance brand and show no signs of wear, and has a Wiseco clutch basket from 2016, and a newish clutch center. Could it be because of grooves in the clutch pressure plate in the holes where the springs go? Or possibly because the clutch cable is one year off and is longer then it should be? Im really stuck here guys and have no idea what to do. Really want to get it fixed because I might have the opportunity to trade it for a REALLY nice bike. Help!
  12. Ok I have a 2017 yz250f and I need a rear wheel I found a set.. But they are for an 08 yz250f and I wondering if anyone knows if I can runs those? Do I just have to swap out the bearings or will they not work at all. Thanks
  13. Does the crf250x share engines with any other hondela bike? I am looking for a clutch cover but the only ones I can find are recluse or Hudson. I would like to find one off a junk bike but not sure which other bike engines I can look at. A list would help a lot. Thanks
  14. Hey all, Just the outer day I desisted to do some suspension work on my 2005 400exc, so I started searching trying to figure out whats on my orange machine. In all the chaos and confusion an idea came to mind... What if there was a master thread for all suspension of KTM dirt bikes, from early models to present, one place you could quickly find your bike and the suspension it sits on. It might already exist but I have spent hours looking for it and am in doubt. So hears the deal, I know you can look up a certain fork or shock and find loads of info and reviews about it so i'm not asking for that here, I just want to list the year, model, what it floats on, and changes in setup. If you feel so inclined to leave a comment or two about the suspension that would be great, but lets try to keep the list neat so its easy for others to find the bike they are looking for. This is what I have come up with so far I think its most of the major differences. Please correct me if i'm wrong. 2002-2006 All KTM, 2007-2016 EXC: Use an OC (open chamber) WP USD 48mm fork, with a PDS rear. The oc fork tends to be soft from the factory but loads of tuners have experience with this fork and I hear it can be set up great for a reasonable price. 2007 XC/XCF/XCW/XCFW: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2007-2014 SX/SXF, 2008-2013 XC/XCF: WP CC (closed chamber) twin chamber fork , linkage rear. the forks have an air bladder that needs to be checked and filled instead of a pressure spring. Are more expensive parts wise and harder to set up. Great fork for advanced motocross guys or those who just want to most aggressive set up. 2008-2016 XCW/XCWF: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2014 XC/XCF: First model to get the 4CS fork, uses a linkage rear. The 4cs fork is designed to be lighter but has a verity of performance problems one being little bottoming resistance. Lots of mixed reactions from users. 2015-2016 SX/SXF/XC/XCF: first year of sx/sxf to get the 4CS fork, linkage rear. 2017-present (2018) SX/SXF/XC/XCF: has an AER 48mm air fork, linkage monoshock. The AER fork is insanely light (over 3 pounds less than the 4cs). 2017-present (2018) XCW/XCFW/EXC: WP XPlor fork, PDS rear. I don't really know anything about changes in shocks, and there must be some stuff about forks that I missed, for example the OC fork has been used form at least 2002 until 2016 there must have been some changes during that time. If you happen to know anything about that or changes on the other bikes please share. Cant wait to hear what you all have to say. Happy trails
  15. I'm looking at upgrading bike. Had previously ridden an 04 TC250 but now that I'm looking at getting back into riding I prefer to do more enduro riding. Upgrading to a bigger bike is on the cards as my motocross days are long gone. Decided I'd like a light bike not dissimilar to the tc250 with lower gearing more power and rego. =te310 I have found three options for sale 2009 @1950ks,not registered 2011 @2000ks 48hr not registered 2013 @1985 72hr registered all look to have been taken great care of your owners but just wondering what sort of price I should be looking at offering , what I should look out for and steer clear of any input appreciated cheers
  16. just curious if anyone has ridden both the new and last gen yz450 and how different they REALLY are. i can read reviews all day but theyre all from professional mx racers that probably pick up on little things id never notice. selling my ktm, pretty set on getting me a new yz, my price range is around 4k so that puts me in the range of buying a 2010-2013 yz450. however im being told from a few guys who ride these that i really need to save and spring for a 2014+, the cheapest 2014 i could find was $5000. are the 14's really that much better? should i save and go for one of those? My main actual question is with that same money could i make a 2013 the same or even better? What ever one i decide on ill probably do the same to either for aftermaket parts, exhaust, tuner, fly wheel weight and a lowering link in the rear. Ive ridden a 2015, which is what sold me on one, i loved it! i just dont wanna be disappointed if i get the early gen. either way will be better around the track then my ktm exc! lol, but man that electric start is soo nice
  17. I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R. Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands. I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all. Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job. Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback? My concerns are below... 1. The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into. Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve. The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve. Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends? How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place? Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted? 2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe). That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length. The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing. I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine. Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out? Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics? 3. My stock clutch pull isn't bad. I just like the feel of a hydro clutch. Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura? What's your feedback on the difference? FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.
  18. anyone who has converted a 250 dirtbike to supermoto knows the stock gearing with sprockets and everything sucks for road use, this being my first conversion i had no idea until i actually took it on a street ride on the dirt tires and stock gearing... i havent yet gotten my smaller sprocket but how much will going from the stock 50tooth sprocket to a 43tooth sprocket help for street riding so im not rev limiting the shit out of my bike at 50mph. also debating on going a tooth or 2 bigger on the front... im already stuck with the wr250f model not the wr250r model and ordered rims and everything for it and put mad money into it so anything to help and words of wisdom would be appreciated.
  19. I am a long time reader and finally created an account and bought my first bike, a 2013 Yamaha Yz250F. I come from the street bike world owning and riding all types of bikes. I currently own a Multistrada 1200s and that bike convinced me to get my dirt bike. I am excited to get into a new hobby but I have two questions. The first question is when to change the bottom end? My bike supposedly has 40 hours on it so I will be doing the top end next week and checking the valves. I see all these posts about bikes blowing up and I dont want that to happen. I am the third owner on the bike and the second owner sold it to me because he only put 20 hours on it in 2 years and didn't have enough time to ride it. The bike does need some tlc so I already ordered new cables, grips, levers, filters, and brake hoses. I will refresh the plastics last. Mechanically I am pretty good at tinkering with things and have watched a rebuild of a 2004 Yz250F on YouTube and I feel like I can do it, I even bought the service manual to assist me. I will not be racing the bike and I bought it to explore the land around me (Midwest). I will also give it all it has once in a while to have fun. Let me ask you this, given this info, should I buy the tools and replace the bottom end as well? The second question is I tore down the bike to give it a nice cleaning and found a huge gouge in the upper fork tube. Time to replace the upper tube? I will attach photos at the bottom to show you.
  20. I was adjusting the intake valves and noticed this ! Should this be absolutely be replaced, or is it OK to run ? Its a 2013 450 XC-F with 72 hours. I had been aware of the KTM recall for the 2013 450/500 rocker arm due to poor DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating, this looks to be the same issue to me. I didn't think the recall had applied to my bike since I had entered my VIN on the KTM website, and it only had the fuel line recall come up. Now I'm wishing I could have the warranty work done. You guys think there's any chance the dealer would initiate a warranty for this ? I'm going to see the dealer this week and see what they say. Any advice ?
  21. Im currently in the process of taking apart my rear shock to replace seals. My problem is there is no valve to release the nitrogen in the shock. Should I just proceed with taking it apart? The manual only talks about disposing the rear shock and says to drill a whole in it, but that would render the shock useless. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Nate
  22. 2013 KTM 300 XC: Electrical Troubleshooting Advice badly needed for fairly new KTM owner who just reinstalled electric starter parts. WARNING! Long read and some Electrical knowledge required. Comment or PM with details please! Issue: INTERMITTENTLY not getting any ignition spark (wire or cap), but most times when moving the CDI/ECU box around I'm able to get spark again! But sometimes it goes out longer as if the CDI box was in some kinda protective mode. Background: bought bike without E-starter kit. It had a Baja Designs voltage regulator and stator mod for DC voltage (unknown to me during initial troubleshooting) to run lights I didn't get with bike. Installed E-starter and new battery but it wouldn't start with E-start on cold engine, only by kickstarter. But it would not produce more than 13.4 Volts with bike running. I even de-modded the stator back to OEM standard (AC v) and OEM voltage regulator. But not much improvement. Then I started having the no-spark issue, especially after E-start attempts, which I attributed to a combination of bad stator/pick-up coil and ignition coil since some of the readings were borderline off. I decided to get a new stator and voltage regulator and while at it new ignition coil. Installed all the new stuff and it cranked much stronger and even E-started it a couple times on a somewhat cold engine. Then it would lose spark again. I tested everything I could with a multimeter (ohms) and it passed the continuity tests as per the manual. However, I haven't found any data on troubleshooting the CDI box. I know I got continuity between pins 2 (ground, br) and 11 (pick-up coil/CPS, gn) in the CDI box. Not sure if CDI pin 11 should be grounded to pin 2 internally or if any other terminals should be grounded to each other in the CDI. All wiring harness wires have continuity and no shorts. I even moved them around while checking. Wiring harness connector to CDI was a little questionable cuz it slips out a little on one side but even while pressing it I'm still not getting spark at the ignition when cranking (intermittently). I'm leaning toward CDI box with a slight change it could be the connector. Thoughts? guidance? recommendations? New Parts: OEM stator, OEM voltage regulator, OEM ignition, Neuron starter, Shorai battery Used Parts: CDI/ECU box, bendix, wiring harness, starter relay Thanks AC
  23. Hey there. As the title suggests my 2013 drz400sm is having intermittent starting problems. When I go to start it sometimes the push start will give no response whatsoever for 1-30 pushes and then suddenly will crank as normal. Other times it will crank first push. This problem developed over a few days and is now at the point I am not confident it will start if I take it anywhere. Have not tried it but fairly sure a bump start would work fine. When it isn't working the dash doesn't even dim and the headlight doesn't flash as normal. I am a novice mechanic but have done a fair amount of maintenance and would rather work through the problem myself if possible. My speculation is a problem with the wiring from the button to the starter or the starter itself but I'm at somewhat of a loss how to approach a fix here. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Preferably in simple terms for the sake of my inexperience.
  24. Time Left: 21 days and 20 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • Used - Good

    New grips New d606 tires Cleaned carburetor Added LED blinkers Added LED cube lights New high tensile chain New OEM sprockets Dents on fuel tank Rides great 2013 xr650l 3400 miles. 4000$ Clean Ohio title in my name


    Brook Park, Ohio - US

  25. Used 2013 ktm 200 xcw. So never encounter this before but trying to solve a weeping slave. I did a full rebuild intially on the slave and master cylinder. No leaks there, bleed, checked, all is good. But it will piss gear oil if the slave is off or constantly leak when installed. I've throughly cleaned all surfaces, new gaskets, torqued to spec. It seems odd to lose gear oil so excessively. Any suggestions?
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