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Showing results for tags '2014'.
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So I just got done rebuilding this 2014 KX85 when I went to go fired up gas was pissing out of the overflow and it wouldn't stop so I took the carburetor apart float wasn't stuck and everything was clean I try to adjusting the float that didn't work I'm just a little stumped right now Any ideas? This bike did sit for quite a while probably hasn't been rode since 2015 it had very few hours on it someone wrecked it blew it up and sold it
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Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
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The pds shock on my 2014 300 xc-w broke down and im looking for a replacement. Will a shock coming from a 2014 250 exc-f fit my bike? they have different part numbers so im not sure 12.18.7L.63 -- 300 xc-w shock part number 12.18.7L.67 -- 250 exc-f shock part number thanks 👍
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Just bought my son a clean used 2014 crf250r it only starts up easily with hot start lever pulled out. Once it starts u can turn hot start off and it's fine but if it stalls or you even just shut it off with kill switch. It dosnt wanna start back up without hot start pulled out even when she is warm and it's in the 50s farenheit outside. Is this normal? What could it be if it's not normal. Bike runs great and strong very clean low hours or so it seems and is freaking nasty fast. This is my first fuel injected bike so I'm a lil lost but I could not find anything about my issue online so someone please help me!!!!! -
Hi, My 2014 KTM SXF250 has a problem where after 20 mins ish of riding the rear brake gets hot and locks up completely. At the moment my fix is just to remove the brake pads and ride the rest of trails with out. So far I have replaced the brake piston, rebuilt caliper, new pads and rebuilt master cylinder. Plus flushed the brake fluid countless times. The pedal does feel weird it’s very hard as soon as brakes engage the pedal stops. Any help would be appreciated, cheers -
G'day guys I bought a 2014 ktm 350excf a few weeks ago On the first ride after about 5 hours of single trails and firetrails, it wouldnt idle it would kick over and bog down but i didnt think too much of it revved it up and dropped the clutch away i went, rode about 20kms home and on the drive way it wouldnt idle Would bog when revved and die so i washed it and put it away The next night it wouldnt rev at all or idle properly it just bogged down when the throttle got cracked, thinking it was the idle adjustment i got it running atleast, left it over night came home from work and bam it ran perfect around the block and everything Next ride it died in the trails wouldnt idle and i had too nurse it 15kmH home opening the throttle too much it would stutter backfire and jolt I've since replaced the inline fuel filter, the fuel pump filters, ran injector cleaner through it too The bike after running injector cleaner through it and filters ran perfect i thought it was fixed Went for a ride last saturday after about an hour i stopped for a break for about 5 minutes The bike wouldnt start at all estart and the kickstart, the efi light would flash twice(crank angle sensor? This only flashed every now and again, most times it hardly flashed at all) Then i gave up and started pushing While pushing i played with the estart and got it going again having too nurse it as it was running like crap! 2 days later i just kicked it over and its perfect!! Around the block it went fine idles perfect I have a new fuel pump on the way but any input would be appreciated(i know its a long post sorry but im so baffled on what it is) All the loom connections and what not are all sealed and look fine ive gone around and cleaned most of the plugs Cheers!!
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Hi, i have a 2014 250sx and it as you can tell by the title it goes through plugs like no tomorrow. If you aren't already aware the 2014 ktm 250sx has been known for having the most horrible jetting from the factory, when i rode it with stock jetting i fouled a plug on every start up. Pretty frustrating but anyway i changed the jetting completely, i replaced the original needle (N1EI) with a N1EH, 38 pilot and 158 main jet, air screw 1.5 turns out. I also have a 40 pilot i tried but dropped back to the 38. I run 50:1 with rock oil and 91 unleaded. So i started with the clip on the 4th position and fouled the plug within 30 seconds, moved it to the second and still had a lot of oil covering the plug. Finally i moved it to the top position and it still had a small amount so i have the air screw all the way out and its still not perfect? This doesn't happen often but it will even let off a backfire when i rev it too much but once its completely hot it will run pretty good. I read on a previous thread that a person was running a 40 pilot, 158 main and the same needle (on the 3rd position) as me on the exact same bike and year and he said it ran perfect. (he was at the same altitude which is sea level) I will note most of the time it fouled a plug was between 1/4 and full throttle so i thought about maybe going leaner with the main jet? but in saying that if i start the bike cold and not rev it at all for a couple of minutes and shut the bike off i have a bit of oil built up on my plug. So i assume there is something else wrong a part from the jetting? If it is the jetting should i try a new needle or main jet? i could be wrong but its weird i have to have the clip on the top position, air screw all the way out and an extremely lean pilot and have the bike still running rich. was wondering could this have to do with my reeds? if there was a gap? I have considered a hotter spark plug but i dont think i should considering going from the BR8ECM to a 7 plug could be up to 70 degrees differint in temp and that wouldnt be good for the piston or cylinder. Not sure if this is relevent but it could help. I ride mostly at the track, im not super fast im more a c grade rider but i usually ride it on the pipe and when i do that it wont foul a plug but if i ever let it sit for a minute or even less sometimes it can still foul plugs when i rev it. ANY help is appreciated, i have read like 20 forums and still no solution. Thanks! Ash.
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Alright so I just finished rebuilding my dirt bike engine with all new parts basically, everything but clutch, trans, valves, and flywheel have been upgraded or just replaced, everything else looked is super good condition, anyways when you go to kick the bike over it’s fine on everything but the compression stroke or whatever stroke is the one where the valves don’t open, This is my first time ever rebuilding a motor so I bought the manual, I’ve done top ends but never this far into the engine, but now the fun part, I tested the compression and it’s only like 55psi, I thought valves cause I never adjusted those to be in spec come to find out I don’t have the shims or buckets on the valves so I adjusted the valves and saw no damage and I tried again and it was the same thing so I was like ok piston and rings, tore it back down and looked, the piston is on correctly and the rings are on right as well so now I’m here wanting help cause I have a ride this weekend and I don’t wanna cancel, all help will be appreciated and sorry for this long ass paragraph.
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hey guys. picked up a 14 yz450f back in april. put 60 hours on it this season without an issue until last week. bike starts sputtering after a short ride. any ideas? i've changed air filter recently, oil, spark plug. cleaned the tank, and cleaned fuel pump as best as i could. switched maps from map 1, 3, 4, 8, and 9. bike seems to run the best on map 9 but dies out a lot while clutch is in and decelerating from high speed. here is a quick video i took today https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Id1mQzHTYz_8t3naGAVCqSFRhnXWi3p4/view?usp=sharing
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Hi Guys. I'm in the market for a different bike as mine isn't cutting it for me anymore. I have a 2010 KTM 250 XC and have the opportunity to buy a damn near brand new 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. I've heard a lot of mixed things about the 350, and was wondering what the owners of them have to say about them. I've read a lot about different years but haven't heard much of anything about the 2014. Can someone help me out?
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Hey guys, I’ve got a 2012 kx250f. When I got it it had lots of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I changed the oil and it got all better. Now, when I accelerate quickly and when the bike starts some white smoke comes out. I think it’s oil, but not sure. What can be the causes of this? The previous owner said he rode it for 80 hours in total in the past year, but he also didn’t take good care of it.
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Hey guys I have a 2014 Drz400sm with 5000km on it, when should I start thinking about a complete top end rebuild and how often should I change the oil?
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Hello all. Just got a new(to me) 2014 KTM 450 exc and when I purchased it it was covered in chain lube but I now know the guy was trying to hide an oil leak. To say I'm pi**ed of is an understatement, but it's my own fault. It appears to be coming from the side sump bolt near the front sprocket. I'm just wondering; are these bikes supposed to have a copper washer behind that plug? Because there isn't one. If the above is not the case then could anyone tell me what it may be? Doesn't appear to be from the mid engine gasket but I don't know. It takes literally a day or 2 to build to one drop. I plan on taking it out and looking but if a washer is required then I'd rather have it handy. No oil on the sump/frame guard either but it's bugging me and I worry about oil leaving the bike. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ??
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Ok I have a 2017 yz250f and I need a rear wheel I found a set.. But they are for an 08 yz250f and I wondering if anyone knows if I can runs those? Do I just have to swap out the bearings or will they not work at all. Thanks
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hi im trying to figure out why my 2014 yz250f wont stay running. it will start just fine but when it does start it will only idle for a few seconds then shut off. if i start it and hit the gas it will rev a little then kinda start bogging and then shut off a few seconds later. i have two 2014 yz250f's so i can swap stuff in and out between the running one and the one that does not. so far i tried putting the other tank on it and the other cdi and rectifier and still the same thing happening. the valves are in spec i checked them and i did a leak down test and everything is good in the motor so i think its something electrical or something with the fuel. any help or suggestion would be great thanks.
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just curious if anyone has ridden both the new and last gen yz450 and how different they REALLY are. i can read reviews all day but theyre all from professional mx racers that probably pick up on little things id never notice. selling my ktm, pretty set on getting me a new yz, my price range is around 4k so that puts me in the range of buying a 2010-2013 yz450. however im being told from a few guys who ride these that i really need to save and spring for a 2014+, the cheapest 2014 i could find was $5000. are the 14's really that much better? should i save and go for one of those? My main actual question is with that same money could i make a 2013 the same or even better? What ever one i decide on ill probably do the same to either for aftermaket parts, exhaust, tuner, fly wheel weight and a lowering link in the rear. Ive ridden a 2015, which is what sold me on one, i loved it! i just dont wanna be disappointed if i get the early gen. either way will be better around the track then my ktm exc! lol, but man that electric start is soo nice
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lookin to upgrade my suspension on my 06 cr250, curious whats possible with some work.
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I just got done totally rebuilding a 2014 kx450f I mean all new everything on the inside of the motor. But now the bike won’t start on its own. But it will start with starting fluid and then it stays running untill you shut it off. Could my fuel pump be going out or could my ECU be bad? Iv had different people tell me different things. Bike also has a bit of a misfire when your trying to keep the throttle locked at a certain point. This is my first fuel injected dirtbike and I’m not sure what to check first and or how to check it. I put a lot of money into this bike and I just want it to run right.
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Hey all, Just the outer day I desisted to do some suspension work on my 2005 400exc, so I started searching trying to figure out whats on my orange machine. In all the chaos and confusion an idea came to mind... What if there was a master thread for all suspension of KTM dirt bikes, from early models to present, one place you could quickly find your bike and the suspension it sits on. It might already exist but I have spent hours looking for it and am in doubt. So hears the deal, I know you can look up a certain fork or shock and find loads of info and reviews about it so i'm not asking for that here, I just want to list the year, model, what it floats on, and changes in setup. If you feel so inclined to leave a comment or two about the suspension that would be great, but lets try to keep the list neat so its easy for others to find the bike they are looking for. This is what I have come up with so far I think its most of the major differences. Please correct me if i'm wrong. 2002-2006 All KTM, 2007-2016 EXC: Use an OC (open chamber) WP USD 48mm fork, with a PDS rear. The oc fork tends to be soft from the factory but loads of tuners have experience with this fork and I hear it can be set up great for a reasonable price. 2007 XC/XCF/XCW/XCFW: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2007-2014 SX/SXF, 2008-2013 XC/XCF: WP CC (closed chamber) twin chamber fork , linkage rear. the forks have an air bladder that needs to be checked and filled instead of a pressure spring. Are more expensive parts wise and harder to set up. Great fork for advanced motocross guys or those who just want to most aggressive set up. 2008-2016 XCW/XCWF: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2014 XC/XCF: First model to get the 4CS fork, uses a linkage rear. The 4cs fork is designed to be lighter but has a verity of performance problems one being little bottoming resistance. Lots of mixed reactions from users. 2015-2016 SX/SXF/XC/XCF: first year of sx/sxf to get the 4CS fork, linkage rear. 2017-present (2018) SX/SXF/XC/XCF: has an AER 48mm air fork, linkage monoshock. The AER fork is insanely light (over 3 pounds less than the 4cs). 2017-present (2018) XCW/XCFW/EXC: WP XPlor fork, PDS rear. I don't really know anything about changes in shocks, and there must be some stuff about forks that I missed, for example the OC fork has been used form at least 2002 until 2016 there must have been some changes during that time. If you happen to know anything about that or changes on the other bikes please share. Cant wait to hear what you all have to say. Happy trails
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Hello,I had a little problem today with Beta.I went for a ride in the woods and no problems till i stopped in a downhill for a break.Then i started the bike and rev it a little and it did a lot of backfire and bogging and black smoke then i turned it off after a small check what’s going on i started it again and had no problems till i stopped again in a downhill then the bike made the same problem.I turned it off again,started it and no problems revs normal,no smoke,no fire. Did someone had the same problem and did someone know what’s causing it? Thank You!
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Hey guy! So I just got the 2014 kx450f and it is spitting coolant out of the overflow tube when I start it even if it’s not over filled. I’m trying to figured out my issue but I’m in the middle of getting the parts to start doing the process of elimination and figure it all out. I got a new radiator and it came with a cap so I threw it on to see if my cap was the problem but it wasn’t. The bike isn’t getting hot. The right side radiator has been smashed in though,not sure if that will cause this problem. I called Motorsport and the told me to get on here and see what you guys have to say about the problem. It looks like it could be my head gasket but I’m not sure. If anyone has any idea will you please just let me know or something? Btw it looks like it’s leaking on the bottom two gasket that are above that main clutch cover as well as spitting out of the overflow tube. I haven’t rode it since I found it and I had only rode it for about 5 minutes before that because I planned on rebuilding it before riding it. I was just gonna get a piston and rings kit with the baskets and do that. Let me know what you guys think or what you would do.
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Thumper talk; I need some help I've just bought a 2014 yz250f. Great bike love the power around the fields. Took it to the trails for the first time last night after rain and I struggled quite a bit. Buddy of mine told me about the gytr power tuner and according to him the smooth power map is a huge improvement for beginners trying to climb up steep hills covered in mud. On Yamahas website they have a few basic maps for my year of bike (2014). I cant find any maps made for smooth power delivery and I dont want to have to pay the dealer 20 bucks everytime I want to adjust the tune on my bike. I'd love to hear what you guys are running and what you reccomend for a novice rider. I'm considering just buying my own tuner but they cost almost $500 to order in Canada -
Hi guys, I have a 2014 Husqvarna te300, and I’ve noticed that when filling the bike back up with gear oil it only seems to take about 650ml before oil starts coming from the drain plug?! Just wondering why this is considering the Manuel says 800ml. And yes I have my bike flat on a bike stand and yes all the old oil is out I left the drain bolt out over night as I installed a helicoil kit for the drain bolt. Any positive input would be much appreciated, should I just do as the Manuel says about the 800ml or also do what the Manuel says about the oil check bolt? ? -
Hi all, I was lucky enough to buy a grenade of a 2014 yz450f I’m having some trouble getting the cams to line up properly to the head, I have just rebuilt the top end after timing chain failure, all new valves new piston and rings cam chain and tensioner. The intake looks to be lined up but the exhaust is either partially hidden or slightly high of the head surface. the compression feels noticeably better with the exhaust mark slightly off the head easing be to think that it’s closer to right there... is there a pin count on the cam chain on these 2014 an up 450s? I saw a YamahaTechAcademy video on YouTube stating that there should be 27 pins between the dots on the cams but that leaves me where I am with the dot off the head??? any help would be appreciated I just wanna go ride!!! cheers luke
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I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R. Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands. I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all. Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job. Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback? My concerns are below... 1. The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into. Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve. The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve. Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends? How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place? Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted? 2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe). That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length. The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing. I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine. Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out? Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics? 3. My stock clutch pull isn't bad. I just like the feel of a hydro clutch. Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura? What's your feedback on the difference? FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.
