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Found 36 results

  1. I was riding my 2015 yz250fx at a local MX track and I came out of a corner slightly lugging the motor out of 3rd and the engine power dropped immediately and began backfiring with the compression over and over and would not gain power until I down shifted and it took off like a rocket. Only happened 2 times over a 3 hour span. But I'm scared it might randomly happen going up the lip of a jump. Bike has fresh gas and about 70 hours on it any ideas?
  2. Hi, i have a 2014 250sx and it as you can tell by the title it goes through plugs like no tomorrow. If you aren't already aware the 2014 ktm 250sx has been known for having the most horrible jetting from the factory, when i rode it with stock jetting i fouled a plug on every start up. Pretty frustrating but anyway i changed the jetting completely, i replaced the original needle (N1EI) with a N1EH, 38 pilot and 158 main jet, air screw 1.5 turns out. I also have a 40 pilot i tried but dropped back to the 38. I run 50:1 with rock oil and 91 unleaded. So i started with the clip on the 4th position and fouled the plug within 30 seconds, moved it to the second and still had a lot of oil covering the plug. Finally i moved it to the top position and it still had a small amount so i have the air screw all the way out and its still not perfect? This doesn't happen often but it will even let off a backfire when i rev it too much but once its completely hot it will run pretty good. I read on a previous thread that a person was running a 40 pilot, 158 main and the same needle (on the 3rd position) as me on the exact same bike and year and he said it ran perfect. (he was at the same altitude which is sea level) I will note most of the time it fouled a plug was between 1/4 and full throttle so i thought about maybe going leaner with the main jet? but in saying that if i start the bike cold and not rev it at all for a couple of minutes and shut the bike off i have a bit of oil built up on my plug. So i assume there is something else wrong a part from the jetting? If it is the jetting should i try a new needle or main jet? i could be wrong but its weird i have to have the clip on the top position, air screw all the way out and an extremely lean pilot and have the bike still running rich. was wondering could this have to do with my reeds? if there was a gap? I have considered a hotter spark plug but i dont think i should considering going from the BR8ECM to a 7 plug could be up to 70 degrees differint in temp and that wouldnt be good for the piston or cylinder. Not sure if this is relevent but it could help. I ride mostly at the track, im not super fast im more a c grade rider but i usually ride it on the pipe and when i do that it wont foul a plug but if i ever let it sit for a minute or even less sometimes it can still foul plugs when i rev it. ANY help is appreciated, i have read like 20 forums and still no solution. Thanks! Ash.
  3. Bought my 2015 EXC-F brand new 3 years ago, and haven't gotten to ride her as much as I'd like, but just got back from a 4 day trip in the Utah desert, and for the first time saw some of the shortcomings on my bike. Brand new I just got basic parts installed like a grab handle, skid plate, LED blinker bark busters, etc., but nothing to modify the way the bike performs. After doing some desert riding and some hill climbs for the first time, I think it would be nice to have a little better hold-up in the suspension, and better low-end torque/power delivery. I've changed the gearing over to 13/48, which seems fine for all around riding. My local riding areas are more woods and trails then open desert, but getting out in the desert and on some of the whoops (and riding my buddies '17 suzuki 250 MX'er) I realized how soft the suspension is. So there's two things I want to look at. First would be the suspension. I haven't even touched the clickers on it since I got the bike, as I'm 170 pounds and I'm told the bike is basically set up perfectly for me from the factory. That, and I had a bad experience with my old Yamaha where I never could get the suspension set up right and I'm kind of afraid of messing with it to a point where I'm lost and can't get back to the pretty good factory feel. The suspension seems set up really nice for the trails, but it would be great if it held up a little better in any jumps and whoops. Comparing to the MX bike I feel like I have to time my body position and throttle just right to get a smooth ride in the whoops, where the MX'er you can just power through. So, if I go a couple clicks in one direction or the other, can I keep the plushness in the woods and improve the performance on jumps and whoops, or do I need to start spending big $$ to get a noticable improvement in this department? On the power delivery, when I got the bike the dealer offered to put on an Akropovic pipe and re-map the bike to match. They said it would run a little cooler and bring on more power. Since I hadn't even ridden it yet, I figured I'd put some miles on it and decide later. After talking to the same dealer last week they said they can no longer adjust any mapping, but they could put on the pipe. I don't see what the point would be of bolting on a pipe if I can't adjust the mapping to take full advantage of it. I'd like to increase the low end torque, mostly. So, what options do I have to improve the power output and delivery? Thanks in advance! And because every post is better with pics... Here's one from Swingarm City in Utah
  4. Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
  5. So I started my bike up yesterday with no problem cold started on the 3rd kick, let it warm up then rode it around for about 20 minutes then it stalled out. Put it in Neutral and tried to kickstart it but for some reason it was really hard to kick, I couldn’t get through the full movement. I could only partially do it, and sometimes it wouldn’t move at all. I talked to my old man and he seemed to think I had to much compression and that’s why it’s hard to kick, I was maybe thing something with the kickstart and the gears in there. I’m new to riding and don’t have any experience with the engines although I would like to learn. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated, I’m gonna change the oil out tonight and see if I see anything.
  6. just Did oil change and removed this peice there is now space where it can moved back and forth slightly and do not know if this is ok
  7. Anyone help me out here ? I dont know much other than the basics of carburetors. I purchased a new exhaust and was wondering if i need to do anything to the carb? Bike is stock other than a 53 tooth sprocket.
  8. Hello I am new to TT so hopefully im posting in the right spot. I have starter problems on my yz250fx. last couple months I had notice that the electric starter has taken more cranks then normal to get started, I thought the valves could be out of spec and that is the problem, yesterday I put a new piston in the bike and checked the valves everything was good, and I took the bike out to break it in the electric start struggled to start the bike all day but manage to do so after holding it down for a bit, now today I could get it to fire at all using the electric start. Note. The bike fires first or second kick with the kickstart and runs great, wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what they did to fix it. Thanks for reading ,John
  9. Hello I want to order a 2016 gearbox but I have a question. Does a rmz 250 2016 gearbox fit in a rmz 250 2015 engine ? because I have always have problems with the 15 gearbox and the 16 gearbox is much better i have ask 6 local dealers but they think it fits but nowone nows it for sure do anybody can help my ? Greetings Rens
  10. Hey Everyone, Looking for guidance/ advice as my bike sits in a shop acting like a paperweight. I have a 2015 KX250F that is having trouble starting once I ride it for 30minutes. It starts up 2-3 kicks cold everytime and idles fine. After running for 30 minutes or so, the bike wont start hot. I have to let it cool down for 20-30 minuets before it will kick back over. During this time it will bump start, sometimes struggles but normally will start. The bike doesn't bog down during operation and will continue to rip unless I stall it or hit the kill switch. Currently the bikes at the shop and the guys are stumped. Valves are perfect( shimmed to loose side of tolerance), leak down test passed, timing is great, new park plug, coolant full, and No sensor error codes have been detected. I'm at a loss, because the bike will continuously run unless I shut it off or by dumb mistake stall it. Then it becomes a waiting game until I can kick it back over. The shop guys are starting to suspect the fuel pump causing problems but idk. What's your thoughts? Has any one has a similar problem?
  11. Hi I am starting this thread to address a certain question of mine. I am looking to get graphics for the Polisport restyle kit on the Yz 125. However I am noticing that there are few sites that have an option for "polisport restyle kit." I've done some digging and I've seen some people say that 15+ graphics will work with the restyle kit. I am wondering if anyone can confirm this. Cause I know for a fact I can find many more graphics kits if I just searched for ones that applied to 2015 and above. Please let me know if this is something I can do, thank you!
  12. I've searched the forum but can't seem to find anything useful. I've been experimenting with fork heights and bar positions, etc. to get a better feel when cornering the bike, but something about the handlebars just doesn't feel right. I've been looking around at different styles but not sure which one to try. I'm 5' 10" and pretty much just a weekend warrior, riding trails and tracks. I think I read on one thread that people have like the RC bend on these bikes but it seems the bend is different from brand to brand and model to model. What have others had success with? Thanks.
  13. I couldn't find any markings from the cylinder (expect 66/17AR), didn't open powervalve covers though. I would be happy to hear where the size marking is (size 1 or 2).
  14. 2015 CRF 450R. 70~ hours did a top end and now it wont idle. After installing the top end and riding bike it wont idle once hot. I can set the idle cold to about where i want it but once i give it gas and its warm it either idles at 3k rpm or dies. WHen i say dies as soon as the throttle is not open the bike goes->0. Even when its cold and you give it throttle it almost hangs at 3k then settles to 2k but once fully warmed it dies. I have cleaned everything in addition to the steps below. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as im without a bike and losing hair over this. It seems electrical as i didnt notice that much of a power loss I have tried: remapped it all sorts of different ways, swapped throttle body from buddys bike that runs(TPS, injector, idle sensor, idle adjuster), checked all sensor and cleaned them, put buddys fuel tank on ( filter, pump etc), gas is not old, checked timing chain alignment( although the factory lines on the cam shaft are not perfect i believe with 98% certainty the cam is aligned properly) , air filters clean, no tlow on anti freeze, IAC sensor changed, sorry if this is in the wrong section, just trying to get some help
  15. I like to think that I am a at least capable of "most" motorcycle repair jobs but this time, I might have to take it to someone with an actual title of "motorcycle mechanic". After countless oil changes done by yours truly, the threads stripped out of the motors oil resevoir. Most likely because I overtightened the bolt at one point. Irregardless, it looks like the motor has to be pulled and an insert put in to make things right. Since it is time to do the top end on it and add some new radiators, I thought I would ask you folks, who you would consider dropping your baby off to, to do the work? I have searched for a couple of years looking for the shop manual that goes with my bike but as of yet, I have come up empty handed. I can put the insert in no problem, but the motor has to be pulled and that sketches me out. I have never done a top end rebuild and fear I do not have the tools that the job would require. So my question to you guys : Who can I take it to that would get me back in the woods without worry, in a reasonable time period? I thought about Les Tinnius at LTR but I think he only does supension work these days. Please help me out, I know noone around here on Kitsap peninsula.
  16. Just serviced my 2015 YZ250F, noticed the oil looked thinner than normal, and on closer inspection found oil smelt of fuel. Being fuel injected how can this happen? Leaking injector? Anyone had the same problem?
  17. So I buy these new rad braces for the Husky. Not a damn clue how to fit them and no advice from Husqvarna dealer. I'm starting to wonder whether they're for this particular model. Can't be me, right?? Any ideas?
  18. I was going to service my forks with new oil and new seals that I had laying around and went to soften the rebound screw like I always do and believe that I went a turn too far. it clicks but doesn’t stop. I’ve taken the inner tube out and used a flat head screw driver to turn the D shaped push rod and it will stop like the clicker is on it going clock wise with the-flathead but going counter cw it does not. Any advice on what happened? I know I need to replace the adjuster screw since it won’t stop on the soft setting but where the push rod sits in the oil chamber or piston type thing is that messed up? Thx in advance
  19. Ok I have a 2017 yz250f and I need a rear wheel I found a set.. But they are for an 08 yz250f and I wondering if anyone knows if I can runs those? Do I just have to swap out the bearings or will they not work at all. Thanks
  20. Hi, I'm located in Canada and have a 2015 WR250F . I have ordered the Competition Kit (ECU) for the bike and was looking into Exhaust options. My requirement is to have a Spark Arrestor and also keep noise down to 94db, and I am looking to liven up the bottom end power. I mainly ride woods/trails. I've done a search here and read some old threads from back in 2015 about people upgrading the WR250F with the Competition Kit, and trying various exhausts. My understanding is that the YZ250FX stock pipe is similar to the WR250F, but lacks a Spark Arrestor. The YZ250F stock pipe would be the one to put on the WRF, but I believe I would not be able to get a SA and a Decibel limiter at the same time for that pipe to bring it down to 94db. Not looking to spend a $$$, so Is my only option if I was to get a new slipon the FMF Q4 with quiet insert? I guess I could keep the stock pipe and do the modifcations for the Competition ECU (Throttle stop screw, remove Intake Snorkle, remove End pipe restrictor) .. does anyone know how many decibels these changes come in at? thanks in advance !
  21. So I've got 2015 crf250x. I did many of the ccc mods and now it runs like a champ. Starts on first kick/push and I love the suspension and feel. What I hate about the bike is how hard it is to work on. Specifically the carb. For anyone who doesn't own a 250x/450x the carb sits right behind a large portion of subframe and is nearly impossible to access. I have a after market fuel screw and I still can barely get to it with my hands. If you actually wan't to clean the carb you have to lift the whole sub frame to get it out. Now my throttle cable is seized up (probably from sand) and I am going to have to replace. I'm not mad that the cable seized, it happens, things go wrong grit gets in places its not supposed to be and parts wear out. However where my throttle cables attach to my carb is completely inaccessible. So I am going to have to lift the sub frame again! This is not that big a deal but the last time I tried to get the airbox boot back on the carb it took 5 hours and a shit ton of grease. Carb work is something that is common on all dirtbikes. Even just for maintenance. It should not be that difficult to access it. It seems like honda doesn't want owners to work on their bikes anymore. Don't even get me started on trying to find a current service manual (because the bikes don't come with them anymore). I looked at several buddies bikes because I was curious as to how they are layed out, and for the ktm, yamaha, and suzuki the throttle cable fix wouldn't take more than 30 minutes. But its going to be an all day process for me. I'm so pissed right now I'm thinking about selling my bike and switching makers because I feel like this is going to become a recurring problem. What do you guys think? Any honda guys out there gonna convince me otherwise?
  22. Hey guys, I am new to my 2015 Crf 450r. I use it for trail riding mostly. I weigh about 220lbs w/o gear on. I need help with figuring out how to adjust the suspension on my bike. I am not exactly sure what needs to be done. The front end of my bike feels like it wants to constantly buck me, or wash out on the trail. It is very hard to keep a steady rhythm riding this bike and I think it is due to all the front suspension. The back end feels pretty good. Any ideas? I could use recommendations on dialing the suspension in on it with what the stock bike allows and I would like advice on where to send the forks if need be. Also what should I do with the front steering dampener? How many clicks on the red, blue, and silver knobs on top of the forks should I try? I am use to oil forks not air forks and this is a whole other ball game I guess. Thanks!
  23. Hi, i have a 2015 yz 250 two stroke. I have lots of smoke coming from the power valve over flow. I do not under stand why it is doing this? The smoke make a steaming sound and is coming out constantly. Also when my bike is kicked over it is bogging a lot. It did not do this the last time i rode, which was a week ago. Thanks.
  24. Hey all, Just the outer day I desisted to do some suspension work on my 2005 400exc, so I started searching trying to figure out whats on my orange machine. In all the chaos and confusion an idea came to mind... What if there was a master thread for all suspension of KTM dirt bikes, from early models to present, one place you could quickly find your bike and the suspension it sits on. It might already exist but I have spent hours looking for it and am in doubt. So hears the deal, I know you can look up a certain fork or shock and find loads of info and reviews about it so i'm not asking for that here, I just want to list the year, model, what it floats on, and changes in setup. If you feel so inclined to leave a comment or two about the suspension that would be great, but lets try to keep the list neat so its easy for others to find the bike they are looking for. This is what I have come up with so far I think its most of the major differences. Please correct me if i'm wrong. 2002-2006 All KTM, 2007-2016 EXC: Use an OC (open chamber) WP USD 48mm fork, with a PDS rear. The oc fork tends to be soft from the factory but loads of tuners have experience with this fork and I hear it can be set up great for a reasonable price. 2007 XC/XCF/XCW/XCFW: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2007-2014 SX/SXF, 2008-2013 XC/XCF: WP CC (closed chamber) twin chamber fork , linkage rear. the forks have an air bladder that needs to be checked and filled instead of a pressure spring. Are more expensive parts wise and harder to set up. Great fork for advanced motocross guys or those who just want to most aggressive set up. 2008-2016 XCW/XCWF: WP USD 48mm OC fork, PDS rear. 2014 XC/XCF: First model to get the 4CS fork, uses a linkage rear. The 4cs fork is designed to be lighter but has a verity of performance problems one being little bottoming resistance. Lots of mixed reactions from users. 2015-2016 SX/SXF/XC/XCF: first year of sx/sxf to get the 4CS fork, linkage rear. 2017-present (2018) SX/SXF/XC/XCF: has an AER 48mm air fork, linkage monoshock. The AER fork is insanely light (over 3 pounds less than the 4cs). 2017-present (2018) XCW/XCFW/EXC: WP XPlor fork, PDS rear. I don't really know anything about changes in shocks, and there must be some stuff about forks that I missed, for example the OC fork has been used form at least 2002 until 2016 there must have been some changes during that time. If you happen to know anything about that or changes on the other bikes please share. Cant wait to hear what you all have to say. Happy trails
  25. So it's time for a new piston. Most threads via search are related to "what's the best..." or "xyz vx abc". Does anyone know if a 2015 piston will fit a 2010? Is the common consensus still wiseco or CP as the best?
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