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Found 41 results

  1. I went out riding for the day and on the way back home i fouled my plug so i walked it the rest of the way and i took a wire brush and cleaned my plug and it started first kick. I noticed it was a bit rich on the pilot so i adjusted the fuel/air screw and got it running really good but then i saw coolant steaming out of the radiator cap so i quickly turned it off and later in the week i diagnosed it as a blown head gasket so i ordered it and replaced it and didn't start but it backfires out the exhaust when i kick it. I even tried bump starting it towed behind a quad and still nothing but i heard it fire every so often but didn't start so then i started tearing the bike down cleaned the carb really good got all the jets, replaced the pilot air screw since it was missing parts, got a new spark plug cap since it was rusty inside and the plug was loose in there, took apart and cleaned the power valves, cleaned the spooge out of the expansion chamber and silencer but still wouldn't start so now i don't know what to do i think it might be a timing problem since its backfiring but i really need some more opinions before i start f-ing with it.
  2. Hey guys. I am looking into getting a lectron carb.... just wondering if anyone here has ever bought a 38mm lectron and not liked it and took it off? if you took it off, and have it just sitting in the shop... what didnt you like about it? why arent you running it?
  3. Hi! I am wondering if a 2 stroke would suit my type of riding best. I do trail riding, but not stuff that's really intense. I am 5'5 or 5'6. I currently have a KLX125 and I like it, but need more power! I am thinking a KDX200 would be the perfect two stroke, if I were tall enough. Same goes with the XR250r. Any suggestions would be great!
  4. After doing some adjusting to my float, my 2 stroke has started running a lot better than before but started acting a little bit funny. First, It's a little bit of a pain to start. Then, The idle feels low and it dies if not given gas. Also, if I'm on the clutch while coasting it tends to die. Lastly, bottom and mid power feel pretty good, but the top end power feels weak. Whenever I stop it pours a little gas out of the vent hoses. Is my problem still my float? If so, how do I adjust to fix this?
  5. Took this bike out for a ride and while riding it i noticed it was very snappy on throttle and honestly uncontrollable on slick hills, etc. the hit was so much i was scared of flying into a tree. Like some of you might know i am used to the 4 strokes power roll on and how its super controllable response. So how can i make the throttle/bike more controllable so i can roll the power on smoothly. Basically make it feel like a 4 strokes throttle in a way? Also i will be adding a 9oz fww to the bike after a few more rides to determine if its needed for me or not. I read a few articles online before coming here, saying to retard the timing a few degrees. 1. I am very unfamiliar with most motor work as in gaps, head mods, etc. Also heard changing to a G2 throttle might help but has anyone used it on a woods bike? Just let me know what you guys have done to knock the mx hit off the yz for woods below!
  6. I should start out by saying that I am 42 years old. I have about 3 years of off road riding experience (including the last year and a half with the Beta) in the last 24 years. Living in Kansas there is no reason to own a dirt bike if you can't travel. So as life changed and I met some guys that went on regular motorcycle trips to Missouri, Arkansas, Colorado, and Utah. I decided to take the plunge. After some research and some help from TT I ignored my KTM riding friends advise, and bought the 2017 Beta 500 RR-S. In a short amount of time I was easily keeping up with my friends who have been riding for many decades more than me. I am an aggressive rider (or so I am told), but I feel like my Beta constantly makes me a better rider than I actually am. It is extremely ridable, finds traction everywhere, and goes up anything you point it at. I am not talking about Kansas hills, I am talking about some of the best riding in America. The bike got it's first real test @ Taylor Park Colorado. It went up everything from Star trail, to timberline, to Flag mountain. With a little clutch slip there was nothing that it wouldn't do, it just stayed under me and kept me side by side with my much more talented riding companions. I can't stop smiling. The 500 is amazing. It is what everyone says it is. I read all the opinions about other bikes but I couldn't imagine that another bike could be more fun or capable. This last winter with the bike tucked away in the garage I began to read more and more in the 2t forums and was confronted by a couple of 2t douche bags that challenged me to not knock it till I tried it. So I found a used 2016 300 RR and bought it. To begin with it was WAY different. I could tell immediately around the house (30 acres) that I did not know how to ride a two stroke. I was slightly titillated but mostly terrified. I know it is not the hardest hitting bike made but it felt like it to me. This culminated in a loop out that required a new sub-frame, air box, plastics, and some ice strategically applied to several parts of my body. When the bike and I healed, we scheduled a multi day trip to Chadwick Missouri to learn a little about each other. I can only say, WOW. This bike is amazing. While the weight of the two bikes is similar the 300 feels much lighter. I don't know if it is the quickness of the 2t or the way the motor is set up, but it feels much more nimble. This does not mean that I felt the 500 was lacking. It did everything well, I can't explain it but the 300 was so so sweet. I expected to have to keep it reved out going up the steep technical trails and that was not the way it was at all. Many of the steep technical trails were easily dispensed with in second or third gear ( I know, you told me). All of this was done at low RPM"s. The bike making about as much nose as a sewing machine, just purring up the hills. This goes for hills like Dairy Queen, Strawberry hill, and many of the rocky climbs with large rock ledges. I was climbing things that my buddies wanted no part of. It was incredible. We met up with someone who rode with us for a while who claimed to be an intermediate B rider and the Beta and I were keeping up just fine and climbing hills that he wanted nothing to do with. This is not to promote myself at all. These bikes are amazing. With a little bit of practice of some of the skills from Barry's cross-training vids and the tips some of you gave me combined with these great bikes and you can accomplish a lot. At the end of the day I love my 500, buuuuuuut the 300 is stupid. I can't imagine grabbing the 500 unless I have some extended distance to cover at speed. The 500 is awesome for going 30 miles at 60mph to a technical trail..... but the 300 IMHO is so much more fun when you get there. In two weeks I am going to Arizona and then to Moab for a week and will be taking the two bikes but unless it changes the 300 is getting the nod for the majority of the riding. Thanks for all the input from the TT community. These are just my observations if you disagree, you are wrong. My opinion is just that, my uneducated opinion. Peace, Gary
  7. Please this post is not asking what I should use(that is beaten to death!) but can I use the stuff in the pic for my tranny. I use Belray 80w Gear saver and perfectly happy with it. I uploaded this pic to a fb Yamaha page and almost got my head ripped off when I asked if I could run this in my YZ250X Transmission. "Different additives" "not designed for it" you stupid fk" Use what the manual says...….my manual says 10-40 soooo is there a difference between 10-40 for my tranny and the 10-40 in the pic??? I bought this oil for my RMZ250 that the X is replacing and wanted to use this if I can as opposed to give it away...some say yes and some no. I get better advice and less attacks at TT than FB...jeesh Ill never ask another tech thing again on FB...
  8. I just picked up a ‘98 CR250 to turn into a woods bike and it has a chaparral racing plate welded on the pipe. I can’t find any information on the internet of them ever selling their own pipes. Is this an fmf or stock pipe rebranded?
  9. This is my first top end rebuild. I just got the head off, cylinder and piston removed. There's definitely some wear on one side of the piston and cylinder. I'm replacing the piston, rings and head with a VHM. Should I be concerned about the wear in the cylinder? If so, would scotch bright suffice? Also, I gave the bike a good cleaning prior, but as more and more parts came off, it was apparent that things were still a little dirty. Can I clean the cylinder prior to putting it all back together. Lastly, the cylinder bolts were pretty corroded; well at least 3 out of the 4 were. Should I wire brush these? It'll be hard to keep junk from falling into the bottom end... The bike is a 2006 RM250 Thanks
  10. Hey guys, I am wanting to buy a new bike. Should I get a YZ250F or a YZ250? Why or why not? Any opinion helps.
  11. I currently have 05 yz that I just dumped a ton of cash into. I was searching for a set of 06+ forks and I found a titled 13 yz125, the guy say it runs like shit,has a cracked case, needs chain, sprockets and probably a bunch of other shit. My plan was to swap my motor and all the other new parts over to it since my bike doesn't have a title. Is it worth 1500 and a 6 hour round trip?
  12. Wanting a more progressive torque curve, more traction, more low - mid range power. Not sure which ones of these pipes is better. I was told the FMF Fatty was the way to go, but reading up on the Gnarly makes me think perhaps its the gnarly? Anyone actually have experience with both?
  13. I just brought home my new baby. A new to me 2003 KX250 in great shape and she's set up for the woods (which is primarily what I will ride) she was never raced a day in her life and judging by the boot marks I dont think she has seen much action in her lifetime at all... got the title, all bearings tight no play anywhere. Has a warp9 18" rear wheel, 11oz. Flywheel weight, magura hydraulic clutch (I think the hymec not sure). Vforce3 Reed valve. They Had the suspension revalved in 2018 at a reputable place, (they do alot of racers suspension) the previous owner who is the same weight as me and does the same type of riding (mostly woods) and she really wasnt ridden a pretty much at all since the re-valve, but she was started weekly and maintained (almost analy which is good for me!) I haven't had time to ride her yet except for the test ride and a quick putt-putt around my shed (been itching to throw a leg over her and rip). Sorry about the long intro but I am very excited it's the nicest bike I have ever had (had a 2005 yz250f that dropped a valve into the cylinder after my first 8 hours of owning it, got rid of it then). And after that a 96 yz250 which I loved. I haven't ridden in years now and I am just getting back into it! Anyway I have been trying to find a green anodized bling kit like the one from mojo motorsports or moose racing or tusk. Green seems more difficult to find than blue or red. And it seems impossible to find one for my year (2003) kx250... also tried to find the green anodized foot pegs but once again I can find them for just about every year except 2002, 2003, and sometimes 2004 as well... same for a black w/green tip brake pedal and shifter... what the hell? I have heard there are alot of one off parts for these years but I feel like a bling kit is something silly to not find. Also I really want to get the shorty lever for my magura hydraulic clutch ASAP because when I pull it with my middle finger or my pointer and middle finger the long lever squashes my ring and pinkie fingers. (Most people can probably just adjust where the clutch levers friction point is and just not pull the lever all the way) unfortunately this drives me insane but I did see a "shorty" lever for sale on rocky mtn ATV(i think). When I click on it it brings up a pic with a red anodized adjuster which basically has a pin (for lack of a better word) through it. But then when I go to the option and i switch to the shorty lever the picture changes to what appears to be the correct one. What messes with me though is when I switch back to long the red adjuster lever picture doesnt come back but just the regular long replacement lever. i know it's silly but I have never had a bike that was worth doing any cosmetic stuff to, so I am actually excited to make it look bitchin. Could anyone help me find some green anodized bling even if I have to buy each piece separately? And or confirm where I could find the correct shorty lever for my magura clutch (extra points if you can find an aftermarket shorty green lever for the magura clutch and I'll love you forever). My cosmetic plans are to go for black radiator shroud plastics and get graphics that match the rear fender and fork guards (mostly black with some green and maybe a dunlop logo) so the bike will be mostly black. And then get the green anodized brake lever (two finger pull), green anodized gas cap, all the little stuff like master cylinder covers, rear brake clevis, axle adjusters, wheel spacers, oil drain and filler plug, hopefully foot pegs, maybe the adjustment screws for the carb in green maybe green handlebar and risers. Going to get black and green spoke covers and alternate them on both wheels then once I see how she looks with all the black with the green anodized accents I will throw on either a complete black or possibly green silicone and fuel/overflow hose kit. Any help and or links and info would be super appreciated. Idk why but it seems like red or blue parts are easy to find but green for my year isn't.... Thanks everyone in advance And I'm sorry I wrote such a long freaking novel I'm just super excited... and haven't had time to ride so I've been thinking about how I wish she looked... Btw this is my first post here. I used to come here for info years ago but never posted. Thankyou all for some of the best info and discussions throughout the years...
  14. Okay, this is probably a dumb question and I've looked all over google for what would happen but couldn't find anything. Reason for asking is I just sold my TTR 230 and am pretty much dead set on a two stroke 250 for a number of reasons BUT, they're very loud bikes compared to the 230 and I don't want to piss of the neighbors (aka the Forestry cop). I've read about guys wrapping their expansion chambers in heat tape, and silicone (which I'll probably do) and I've also looked at 2 stroke exhausts like the FMF Q and the Pro Circuit 296. My question is would a 4 stroke muffler be even quieter than these? I am okay with sacrificing some of the power if it becomes noticeably quieter. Would a 4T silencer work or would I just be better off by going with one of those silencers? Thanks,
  15. History: The brief history of the Japanese Lubricating Oil Society (JALOS) with regards to 4-stroke requirements was described in JASO Explained: Part 1. A lot of the same reasons were given for the formation of the JASO M345 specification for 2-stroke oils as were given for the T903 specification for 4-strokes. At the time, there was a lack of control for performance levels of available lubricants and JALOS decided to form a specification that was designed specifically for motorcycle applications in the void left by other standards being discontinued. This gave the OEMs a standard to specify for use in their products that ensured their machines would not fail from inadequate lubrication. Prior to the JASO M345:2003 specification, the National Marine Manufacturers Association TC-W performance level was created in the 1960’s but focused on outboard and marine engine oils. The American Petroleum Institute (API) released specifications starting with API TA to API TC throughout the years, but in 1994 JALOS superseded the API specifications with the JASO FA, FB and FC specification levels. This release of new specifications was partly in response to the API discontinuing any progression to the API 2-stroke specifications ending with API TC in 1993. Another set of specifications developed by the International Standards Organization (ISO) are similar to the JASO specifications for 2T engine oils with some minor differences, and I’ll elaborate on those differences later in this article. After the FA, FB, and FC specifications, JALOS introduced the JASO FD specification to advance lubricant technology to an even higher standard and at the same time made the FA specification obsolete. So the three levels of performance currently maintained are FB, FC, and FD according to the JASO M345:2003 specification. Specification Details: The JASO two-stroke specifications are important because they create a benchmark for minimum performance criteria for 2-stroke oils. This particular category of products may just have the largest variety of properties and formulations in the motorcycle market. Many lubricant companies have their own methods for formulating 2-stroke oils and in doing so have developed many unique solutions to the main concerns of 2-cycle lubrication. Regardless of how the performance is accomplished though, what they need to accomplish is set by JASO in no uncertain terms. Figure 1: JASO M345:2003 specification for 2-stroke engine oil performance The numbers for Lubricity, Initial Torque, Part Detergency, Exhaust Smoke and Exhaust Smoke Blocking are all index numbers associated with scores associated with performance in each category. For each one, the higher the number is, the better the performance in that category. The general rules for the different performance levels are these: FB corresponds to high lubricity performance but without any low-smoke technology. FC meets the FB lubricity standards but also is a low-smoke lubricant. FD corresponds to higher detergency properties than the other two grades, meets the lubricity requirements and has low smoke requirements. Most of the performance testing is performed using standard test engines and measured by part raters following the JPI-5S-34-91 rating manual. Part rating is a very exact method of evaluating engine parts after use to determine their condition and raters are highly trained to perform this duty. Each of the methods uses specific engines for evaluation. Figure 2: JASO M345:2003 test methods and test engines The M340 test measures the lubricity and friction characteristics of the lubricant. Less friction means less heat generated from friction and may increase component life greatly by doing so. It may also contribute to lower wear, although this is not always the case as friction and wear are different and are often addressed by different parts of the formula. The M341 test measures the detergency of the oil which corresponds to its ability to remove existing deposits and prevent new deposits from forming on internal engine parts. The M342 test evaluates how much smoke is produced by an engine using the test oil. This test is partly for environmental reasons but also affects performance. Smoke does not often exit the exhaust cleanly and will leave soot in the exhaust system changing the geometry and surface characteristics. The M343 standard tells us what the exhaust smoke’s effect on engine performance is. With the exhaust system playing a big part in engine output in 2-cycle engines, soot and carbon buildup can affect that performance negatively if not controlled. The sulfated ash measurement assesses the oil’s contribution to ash formation caused by metallic additives that cannot fully burn. Many 2T oils utilize “ash-less” additive systems to eliminate this issue, but they are not required so this measurement is important. Flash point measures the temperature at which the volatile vapors given off by a lubricant are produced at a high enough concentration to ignite with a flame source. This may indicate how well an oil will burn or remain unburned in a combustion chamber. Many oils utilize solvents in their formulas which may give a low result not indicative of the actual lubricating oil so be aware that the reported flash point may not tell the whole story. I would recommend finding the flash point of a 2-stroke oil without its solvent component to get its true contribution to combustion. Kinematic Viscosity at 100°C is a measurement of the thickness or fluidity of the oil and contributes to oil film strength. The reason JASO M345 is in need of an upgrade is because of the two test engines used in Figure 2. The engines used for the tests are being discontinued and spare parts are becoming difficult to source in order to keep those motors running at the necessary performance level. Without standardized parts from the manufacturers, the engines cannot be kept running in adequate condition for the tightly controlled JASO testing. New engines are being tested and evaluated for standardization, and the next update is scheduled to go into effect in April of 2018. The original plan was to update the specification with new test engines in April of 2016, but JALOS announced that they were pushing back the launch date to 2018 due to repeatability problems. The Yamaha ET-1 engine is currently the leading candidate for inclusion, but testing is still underway to ensure compliance with the strict standards for the indexing of various properties measured by the JASO M345 specification. Figure 3: Yamaha ET-1 engine. Photo source: http://global.yamaha-motor.com/business/pp/generator/220v-50hz/0-1/et-1/ Because of the uncertainty in this engine’s ability to provide repeatable and reproducible results, the specification is being pushed back until its results can either be verified or a different test engine can be identified, so don’t expect anything new until 2018. It was unclear what kind of performance advancements the new specification would have incorporated before this delay, but it appears there is a plan to separate smaller displacement engines such as brush cutters, chainsaws and other handheld equipment from vehicles with separate criteria. For the time being though, engines and parts are still available for the current test engines so new lubricants can still be evaluated accordingly to the high standards that are already in place. Before I finish this article, I do want to briefly mention the differences between the JASO and the ISO specifications for 2T engine oils because it is a distinction worth mentioning. Figure 4: ISO 13738 specification for 2-stroke engine oil performance The ISO L-EGD and JASO FD are the exact same performance specification. The differences between ISO and JASO are in the B and C specifications. The ISO L-EGB and L-EGC specifications each have an additional detergency requirement. This means the ISO L-EGB and L-EGC specifications require higher performance levels than the JASO equivalents, but most oils that meet JASO requirements will also meet the ISO requirements, so there is rarely a difference between an oil claiming ISO or JASO performance levels. Review - So after all that your head is probably spinning trying to figure out what all of that means. So to boil it all down I'll try to sum it all up here: The JASO specifications indicate increasing performance levels with FB, FC, and FD specifications. The requirements include lubricating ability, cleanliness, smoke potential, and a few physical properties. ISO and JASO are essentially the same with a few minor differences. The performance specifications give machine manufacturers real and tangible minimum requirements to maintain their equipment and ensure high performance. With these specifications, we can look at specific performance differences between products to determine which is the best for our machines without having to rely on uncertain performance claims by lubricant companies or machine manufacturers. Useful Links - JALOS M345:2003 Specification manual JASO M345 Registered Lubricant List
  16. I am thinking of buying a dual sport for commutes/trail riding and I have 2 models in mind but not sure which one would be better. Either a 2009 Yamaha WR 125R with 49,000km or 1990 Yamaha DT 125R with 63,000km (although engine rebuild last year). I can't decide if I want 4 stroke or 2 stroke. I'm aware that 2 stroke are much cheaper and simpler to rebuild, but the reliability of the wr 4 stroke engine seems very good. It also has EFI vs a carburator on the DT. I'm quite worried about engine seizing on the 2 stroke. Which one should I get?
  17. It's been nearly a season now and I realized the GPX TSE250R two stroke doesn't have it's own thread here yet. So what exactly is the GPX TSE250R two stroke? She pulls inspiration from a number of different machines pooled together in a blend that just simply "works". The engine is based off the Yamaha DT230 Lanza engine, a bike never seen in the United States, with it's closest relative being the Yamaha WR200 here. After Yamaha ceased production, the entire DT/WR two stroke line was purchased from Yamaha and continued development and production in the Loncin plant that assembles the current BMW GS650 today. A few developmental changes were made such as removal of the kick starter and relocation of the electric start to under the engine, very similar to how Beta's is designed, lowering center of gravity. She's 6 speed, electric start with mechanical oil injection, counter balanced engine, Mikuni TM30 carb and electronic power valve. The engine is a 225cc two stroke rated at 40 horsepower that features extremely linear near four stroke power delivery. I currently have 24.1 hours on mine now and mine has seen everything from freeway to bark busting single track (mine is plated/street legal). Lots of quality parts on it from factory, including extra wide pegs, CNC machined hubs and rims, dual walled stainless steel expansion chamber, skidplate with linkage protection, lights, speedo, Taiwanese Fast Ace suspension using primarily Showa internals. I'm really digging her so far. Low and mid range is pretty on par with a 250 with a top end about on par with a KDX 220.
  18. Time Left: 9 days and 14 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • Used - Good

    I did a rotisserie rebuild on this KX125. All of the bearings, seals, gaskets, lines, brakes, brake lines (ss), handles, new vertex piston & rings (<2 hours), replated cylinder, new crank (I have the oem in case you want to rebuild it) rebuilt power valves (cylinder & valve work performed by Eric Gorr Racing), rebuilt carburetor-including the jet block o-ring, swing arm bearings & seals, calipers rebuilt, new chain & sprocket (factory specs), fmf expansion chamber, new clutch & clutch cable, new throttle cable & return spring, grips, new seat cover, plastics, new crank case, ALL crank case bearings & seals, and more... I did not change the front fork seals-no leaks and they look good. Tires are, meh. I’m not going to put new tires on it, although it would look good, I’m not putting more money into it. The rims are straight & true. Put whatever tires you like on it. Rear spring appears good, no leaks. You will need to set the suspension to your weight & riding preference. It’s presently set for my son, about 6’ tall, 145lbs. I built this bike for him. He rode it twice, then threw a leg over my 03’ KX250 & never went back to the KX125. I have my 03’ KX500, & his mom isn’t riding with us, so this awesome KX125 should go to someone who will show it the same love & appreciation as my family. I’ve got some boots I’ll throw in, too. Girls size like 7 ????, & boys size I think 10. My son’s now taller than me & wears a 12. So proud of him. 😎🤙🏻 This bike starts first kick. Obviously, you’ll have to adjust the jets to your environment. I’ve run Benol through this at 32:1 with a BR9EIX. I rebuilt the tranny, as well. All parts therein are within spec & operate smooth. I changed the shifter drum while I was in there. the old one had a couple chips. Every bolt is torqued to spec. Every bolt. I followed the ship manual with some advice and information gathered from here, jetting forums, Ken O’conner Racing, Eric Gorr Racing, KX Guru, and basically anyone & everyone who’s legit and knowledgeable. Like I wrote, I built this for my son, so I put blood, sweat & tears into this bike, and a lot of money that won’t be recouped or accounted for. It shifts smooth and reliably. No leaks, no issues whatsoever. This bike is virtually brand new. I’m not desperate, so please no low-ballers. It’s worth every penny of the $5k I’ve got into it. I’m asking $4500.00.

    $4,500.00

    Henderson, Nevada - US

  19. I dont know if this is the correct location for a question about specific bike and i apologize in advance if it is not. I am trying to put a rm125 that i acquired without a motor back together. I have purchased a 2000 bottom end and i am having a hard time discerning what cylinders are compatible. I have seen mention of pre-96 cylinders on a 2000 bottom end and i have been told that a 2003 matches up although different casting numbers. I was pretty confident 96 to 00 were compatible but i ran across an ad where the seller said a 97 was not because power valve was set up different than other years. Now, im lost and unsure of what to think. I have read many posts on this site where the people knew this stuff backwards and forwards but it was in the context of swapping motors. If any of you could inform me of the compatible years for a top end, i would greatly appreciate. I would also like to know why a 97 is different and how that makes cylinder incompatible. Excuse my ignorance as i had been away from dirt bikes for many years and then purchased a new ktm250 that i never worked on before it was stolen and i rebuilt kx250f last year but im not familiar with power valves per se. I was about to give up after the kxf was stolen also but i am doing my best to get a cpl bikes going. Thank you
  20. I have a 1999 kx250 and I have had some trouble with spark plugs and power. I got the bike in a trade for a laptop but when I got the bike it was fully taken apart so I never got to see how it ran before. I put it all together to what I think is correct, this is my first 2 stroke but ive rebuilt street bikes before so I know a little about this stuff, anyways the bike runs but it has AWFUL mid range. By that I mean if I hold the throttle wide open it gets going well (nice bottom end power) but once it hits the mid it sounds strange and has a horrible time trying to reach upper rpm. Once it does reach the higher rpm the power band seems pretty okay. On top of all that I foul spark plugs after about 10 minutes of riding. I know it cant be the jetting because I have a fmf fatty with a pro circuit silencer. I went off the fmf website for the jetting for the 99 kx250 so I'm pretty sure its not that. I do happen to wonder if it is the powervalve, when I was rebuilding the engine (brand new top end) I noticed that the teeth on some of the valves were pretty stripped so it might be something with that? Maybe it gets stuck open or something? The weirdest part is right before the spark plug fouls, about the last 30 seconds of life from the plug, the bike behaves like how a 2 stroke should, crazy amounts of power and power wheelies from the powerband. Thanks for the help -your local kx guy
  21. Alright I have searched and have done research on forums before but have never posted. New guys get eaten alive, I don't mind just help me out. I have an 05 yz250 that runs like a champ, well I came across a 2015 yz250 that I couldn't pass up but she don't sound right to me. Got it to the house, fires up, idles correctly, and revs smoothly. Little bit about the bike, it has a fmf fatty with the Q slip on that looks like a four stroke pipe, but no other real engine mods. At the top of the power band the bike sounds as if the power valve is loose or there's maybe a slight piston slap. I have had a bike with piston slap and it doesn't come to me as that. This is where I need your help. It does the loud cackle noise at the top of the band, then falls smoothly back into the power as it revs down some. Also when down shifting to bring on the power it makes a slight delay with a weird sounding small pop(kinda like a back fire, just quieter). Any help before I open this thing up would be helpful!!!! Thanks in advance ✊?
  22. This is going to be very long winded, but I know there are people who know a lot more about 2 strokes than I do that I need help from, so I want to provide as much detail as possible. I bought a 2003 KX 250 about six months ago. When I first got it, I replaced the air filter, cleaned the carburetor, and put in a new spark plug. Up until about a month ago, that was all I had done to the bike besides minor stuff that doesn't relate to the actual performance of the bike. It rode hard and fast since I had bought it without a hiccup (besides some fouled plugs), but on a ride about a month ago, I had been riding it decently hard for about an hour and a half when I tried to really open up coming up a slight hill and it sounded like the bike hit a rev limiter. It still had all of its low end power and otherwise ran perfectly fine, but it was like it could not get into the powerband. After keeping off the pipe and letting it coast as much as I could on the way back home, it seemed to get a bit better, where it would just get there, but any farther and it would sputter like crazy and bog. Just two weeks ago, I came to the conclusion (to the best of my knowledge at least) that the power valve was sticking shut, and since I was going to take the cylinder off to clean the power valve anyways, I decided to rebuild the top end. After cleaning the power valve, replacing the piston, and repacking the silencer, I broke it in nice and good and let it rip. It sounded crisp and had all of its power everywhere it was supposed to have it. I felt like I was riding a new bike, so I enjoyed that for about half an hour. Next day, I hop on it and warm it up, take off and it bogs when I get to the powerband. Every time I've gotten on it since, it's a different story. One minute, it's bogging like heck, I sit for a few seconds to calm my frustration, take off and it rips with a sound like that of angels singing. It always runs exactly the same at low rpms, but very different at high rpms. I hate to admit it, but I cleaned the power valve without completely disassembling it, so I think that may be my problem. I'd just hate to tear the bike apart again, thoroughly clean the power valve assembly, put it back together and then my problem still not be fixed. Not sure if it's important, but it does foul plugs quite a bit. It has since I got it though and it ran good before this problem started. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for reading.
  23. I have a 1995 yz125 2t and the thing runs pretty good, well at least it seems to have no issues but it does not need the choke to start the bike. I changed the main, idle, and needle jets all to factory specs for my temperature and altitude. The bike will start first kick when 100% cold and will start first kick when warm but it just does not need the choke. So I'm wondering if I'm hindering my bikes performance in a way because it does not need the choke. Suggestions?
  24. What's going on everyone? My name is Cody and I thought I would post my RMX 250 supermoto build trials and tribulations in a hope to help anyone in the future who may also go down this path. I know I am not the first to post this build on the forum, but I definitely ran into problems that may shed some light onto your future projects. First things first, thank you to the many forum members who helped me along the way... Especially during the electrical. Alright, now to the build. This build definitely falls under the budget category of SM builds. All together I have roughly $2000 into the conversion. Starting with the electrical setup, this was the most difficult part. There was many a times that I was coming to the forum to get some answers. Floating the ground is the first part to getting the system switched to DC. This is accomplished by cutting the ground wire from the stator lighting coil and running it directly up to your new rectifier/regulator. I also disconnected the frame ground at the ignition coil (Black/White wire on the right post of the coil). The rec/reg that I am using is the Trail Tech Universal model (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/trail-tech-universal-voltage-regulator-rectifier-p). I wired the rec/reg with the grey wire from one side of the stator lighting coil and the new black wire that I soldered on and ran through the harness. The new rec/reg was mounted in the stock location on the frame right below the seat. Next, I connected an AGM battery for simplicity of charging. Honestly, I would go with an alternative lithium or nickel metal setup and bite the bullet on the charger. If you are curious though, the battery that fits perfectly into the air box of the RMX is a Duracell Ultra 1.3 AH (https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/slaa12=1.3f). My final wiring that I was happy with used deutsch connectors for all removable components. Don't mind the ugly wiring on the battery in the picture below. Now that the 12V DC system is established, I could get the lighting kit but together. The lighting kit that I went with is the Tusk kit from RM (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-motorcycle-enduro-lighting-kit-p). I ended up cutting a lot of the runs, trimming them to size, and then soldering them back up. Took a lot of time but well worth the clean look in the end. Everything was covered in loom and then the loom was wrapped with tesa tape. The Tusk kit is what you would expect for a ~$180 lighting kit. The main control switch is a little cheap but at the end of the day it gets the job done. One thing you will want to purchase is another brake pressure switch for your front brakes to activate the brake light as well. The ONE provided pressure switch fits the rear, however you will need the BREMBO switch for the front... (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-hydraulic-brake-switch-brembo-brakes-p?s=212720) I had to learn that the hard way. Later on I also decided to just replace the front light with a DOT certified unit. Don't worry l held onto the stock one, but I wanted to be 100% legal as far as lights go. Ended up picking this one from RM, (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/polisport-mmx-headlight-p?s=194673) I'd say it doesn't look too bad. I connected the running light to the tail light circuit in the Tusk light harness so it is always on when the harness power is on. I finished up the electrical setup with a simple Trail Tech Vapor for tach/speedo. The install was pretty straight forward. The only challenges that I ran into was with the coolant temp sensor and the unit staying on while revving. For the install of the coolant sensor I had to shave a small amount off of each radiator neck so that the sensor could fit between. A little ghetto but it does the job and no leaks over many rides since. For the revving issue it was a simple fix that took forever to figure it out. Not even Trail Tech could solve it. The unit would stay on but as soon as I would rev the engine it would freak out and shut off. The fix was throwing in a spark plug with resistor. BR8ES. Works like a charm. I also slapped together a simple switched ignition. Simple 2 wire ignition switch that interrupts the signal from the CDI to the coil (Blue/White wire on ignition coil). Again, ignore the ugly wiring on the left side of the frame. Was loomed and taped for protection against the abrasion between the frame and tank. Now for the fun part, the wheels! So I thought... I bought the hubs off of ebay for $25 and $50. This is what they looked like when I started. Stripped them down and pulled the old bearings. Then I sanded and sanded and sanded. Started with dremel (80 grit? attachment), 120, 220, 400, 800, 1500, 0000 steel wool. Final polish with mothers mag/aluminum polish. The rims are Warp 9 Elites. I am pretty dang happy with them. They are a great budget option if you don't want to shell out for Excel, Sun, etc... I went with the 36-hole/4.25 Silver SM rim for the rear. For the front I did the 36-hole/3.5 Silver SM rim. (Dang cats.... He was just as excited to see them as I was!) The next part is where I made my biggest mistake. I decided to be a cheap ass and have all the components sent to me and trust a local shop to assemble them (avoiding shipping costs). The spokes I purchased from Buchanan's Spoke and Rim located in Southern California. Their customer service was great. I called them and told them what I was building, gave them rim size and nipple size and they did the rest. The local shop that was supposed to assemble the wheels jerked me over for 5 weeks, laced the rear wheel and failed to get the front together. Both wheels were scratched to piss. Lesson learned... Trust the pros. I ended up shipping everything back to Buchanan's, which I should have done in the first place. They did a killer job and no added scratches. 10/10 would recommend their services to anyone. If I did it again, I would have shipped the hubs to Buchanan's and had Warp 9 send the rims to Buchanan's, would have saved $100 in shipping + $145 for a failed lace and scratch job. Ended up ordering the Tusk brake rotors for the front and rear and they look great and work as expected. I wish there was a big brake kit available, but I don't know of any available. I also decided to go tubeless for the wheel setup. I followed to a T, "Jake the Garden Snake's" video on it: I purchased all the same tape and valve stems and it turned out awesome. Super pumped on it. For the gearing I went with a 44 on the rear and a 14 on the front. For bolts and hardware I used Tusk rotor bolt kits and I would recommend staying away from them. Just snugging them down with a little German torque started to round them out. The metal they use is pretty soft. Finally, for tires I went with Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S20 Evos (140/70/17 - Rear) (110/70/17 - Front). They are sticky enough and stupid cheap right now (March 2020) with RM Bridgestone rebate (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/l/2020-Bridgestone-Mar-Apr-Rebate-Info?il_medium=main-bridgestone-2020-mar-apr-rebate&il_source=home). I would recommend sticking with the 140 rear. Many people will go with a 150 and have rubbing issues with the chain. Keep it simple, especially for a simple hoolagin bike. Here is the final product. I am super stoked on it and think it turned out great for not breaking the bank. Let me know if you guys have any questions. I hope this helped some people along their journey and/or motivated you to begin. Thank you for taking the time to read my post. Ride hard, Cody.
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