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Found 26 results

  1. For the launch of the 2018 Enduro models Husqvarna Motorcycles decided to visit Canada to experience the pioneering spirit. So we've invited 48 media guys from all over the world to Panorama, BC to test ride and experience the new 2-stroke fuel injected models.
  2. Hey guys, I am really needing some good advice here from anybody who has ever owned or rebuilt classic Yamaha 2 strokes (1989 - 1994). I live in South Africa, and bought a little farm thumper while on holiday this past weekend. It was advertised as a DT175 which is a bike that is easy to get parts for down here. It has been cosmetically customized and looks pretty darn cool... and lets face it, all the old classic Yamaha 2T engines look the same at a glance! So I genuinely thought it was a naked DT. The bike had no papers, and was used purely for the farmer to putt around on his farm. The only things needing attention was the stator cover which had snapped in half - this was visibly noticeable, and a little leak from a badly resealed gasket (both generally easy and cheap to fix here). The bike was still running and idling fine, started first kick, and I had a little ride around the farm before loading the bike up onto my pickup and heading off, thinking I could fix this thing up nicely in no time for next to nothing, and have what we call down in SA "a nuwe speelgoed" (A new plaything) for the weekends when I am not riding my beloved and reliable DRZ400SM. SO, I get home and decide to contact our local Yamaha branch, out of interest, to find out the history of the bike before I start fiddling (Don't ask me why I did not do this all before I bought the bike - It was a spur of the moment purchase, and was sold to me for dirt cheap!). I send off the VIN and engine number. Comes back, and this little freakin' turd turns out to be a 1989 TDR180!! WHAT. But now I am stuck as we do not really have TDR's down here - and I have never even seen one myself. Long story short - What alternative could I use as a stator cover? Do any other old Yamaha 2T model stator covers fit the TDR or share similar engine parts? Ordering from Ebay is so expensive thanks to my country being in junk status due to a junk president. So the shipping costs more than the actual item does, and our customs is a joke too. Yamaha has also advised me that this stator cover has been discontinued. I have put up local ads looking for parts, contacted FB 2T groups, and local shops. Nothing for TDR's has come back yet. Any advice or sharing of experience is welcome!
  3. MotoTribology

    JASO Explained Part II: 2-Stroke

    History: The brief history of the Japanese Lubricating Oil Society (JALOS) with regards to 4-stroke requirements was described in JASO Explained: Part 1. A lot of the same reasons were given for the formation of the JASO M345 specification for 2-stroke oils as were given for the T903 specification for 4-strokes. At the time, there was a lack of control for performance levels of available lubricants and JALOS decided to form a specification that was designed specifically for motorcycle applications in the void left by other standards being discontinued. This gave the OEMs a standard to specify for use in their products that ensured their machines would not fail from inadequate lubrication. Prior to the JASO M345:2003 specification, the National Marine Manufacturers Association TC-W performance level was created in the 1960’s but focused on outboard and marine engine oils. The American Petroleum Institute (API) released specifications starting with API TA to API TC throughout the years, but in 1994 JALOS superseded the API specifications with the JASO FA, FB and FC specification levels. This release of new specifications was partly in response to the API discontinuing any progression to the API 2-stroke specifications ending with API TC in 1993. Another set of specifications developed by the International Standards Organization (ISO) are similar to the JASO specifications for 2T engine oils with some minor differences, and I’ll elaborate on those differences later in this article. After the FA, FB, and FC specifications, JALOS introduced the JASO FD specification to advance lubricant technology to an even higher standard and at the same time made the FA specification obsolete. So the three levels of performance currently maintained are FB, FC, and FD according to the JASO M345:2003 specification. Specification Details: The JASO two-stroke specifications are important because they create a benchmark for minimum performance criteria for 2-stroke oils. This particular category of products may just have the largest variety of properties and formulations in the motorcycle market. Many lubricant companies have their own methods for formulating 2-stroke oils and in doing so have developed many unique solutions to the main concerns of 2-cycle lubrication. Regardless of how the performance is accomplished though, what they need to accomplish is set by JASO in no uncertain terms. Figure 1: JASO M345:2003 specification for 2-stroke engine oil performance The numbers for Lubricity, Initial Torque, Part Detergency, Exhaust Smoke and Exhaust Smoke Blocking are all index numbers associated with scores associated with performance in each category. For each one, the higher the number is, the better the performance in that category. The general rules for the different performance levels are these: FB corresponds to high lubricity performance but without any low-smoke technology. FC meets the FB lubricity standards but also is a low-smoke lubricant. FD corresponds to higher detergency properties than the other two grades, meets the lubricity requirements and has low smoke requirements. Most of the performance testing is performed using standard test engines and measured by part raters following the JPI-5S-34-91 rating manual. Part rating is a very exact method of evaluating engine parts after use to determine their condition and raters are highly trained to perform this duty. Each of the methods uses specific engines for evaluation. Figure 2: JASO M345:2003 test methods and test engines The M340 test measures the lubricity and friction characteristics of the lubricant. Less friction means less heat generated from friction and may increase component life greatly by doing so. It may also contribute to lower wear, although this is not always the case as friction and wear are different and are often addressed by different parts of the formula. The M341 test measures the detergency of the oil which corresponds to its ability to remove existing deposits and prevent new deposits from forming on internal engine parts. The M342 test evaluates how much smoke is produced by an engine using the test oil. This test is partly for environmental reasons but also affects performance. Smoke does not often exit the exhaust cleanly and will leave soot in the exhaust system changing the geometry and surface characteristics. The M343 standard tells us what the exhaust smoke’s effect on engine performance is. With the exhaust system playing a big part in engine output in 2-cycle engines, soot and carbon buildup can affect that performance negatively if not controlled. The sulfated ash measurement assesses the oil’s contribution to ash formation caused by metallic additives that cannot fully burn. Many 2T oils utilize “ash-less” additive systems to eliminate this issue, but they are not required so this measurement is important. Flash point measures the temperature at which the volatile vapors given off by a lubricant are produced at a high enough concentration to ignite with a flame source. This may indicate how well an oil will burn or remain unburned in a combustion chamber. Many oils utilize solvents in their formulas which may give a low result not indicative of the actual lubricating oil so be aware that the reported flash point may not tell the whole story. I would recommend finding the flash point of a 2-stroke oil without its solvent component to get its true contribution to combustion. Kinematic Viscosity at 100°C is a measurement of the thickness or fluidity of the oil and contributes to oil film strength. The reason JASO M345 is in need of an upgrade is because of the two test engines used in Figure 2. The engines used for the tests are being discontinued and spare parts are becoming difficult to source in order to keep those motors running at the necessary performance level. Without standardized parts from the manufacturers, the engines cannot be kept running in adequate condition for the tightly controlled JASO testing. New engines are being tested and evaluated for standardization, and the next update is scheduled to go into effect in April of 2018. The original plan was to update the specification with new test engines in April of 2016, but JALOS announced that they were pushing back the launch date to 2018 due to repeatability problems. The Yamaha ET-1 engine is currently the leading candidate for inclusion, but testing is still underway to ensure compliance with the strict standards for the indexing of various properties measured by the JASO M345 specification. Figure 3: Yamaha ET-1 engine. Photo source: http://global.yamaha-motor.com/business/pp/generator/220v-50hz/0-1/et-1/ Because of the uncertainty in this engine’s ability to provide repeatable and reproducible results, the specification is being pushed back until its results can either be verified or a different test engine can be identified, so don’t expect anything new until 2018. It was unclear what kind of performance advancements the new specification would have incorporated before this delay, but it appears there is a plan to separate smaller displacement engines such as brush cutters, chainsaws and other handheld equipment from vehicles with separate criteria. For the time being though, engines and parts are still available for the current test engines so new lubricants can still be evaluated accordingly to the high standards that are already in place. Before I finish this article, I do want to briefly mention the differences between the JASO and the ISO specifications for 2T engine oils because it is a distinction worth mentioning. Figure 4: ISO 13738 specification for 2-stroke engine oil performance The ISO L-EGD and JASO FD are the exact same performance specification. The differences between ISO and JASO are in the B and C specifications. The ISO L-EGB and L-EGC specifications each have an additional detergency requirement. This means the ISO L-EGB and L-EGC specifications require higher performance levels than the JASO equivalents, but most oils that meet JASO requirements will also meet the ISO requirements, so there is rarely a difference between an oil claiming ISO or JASO performance levels. Review - So after all that your head is probably spinning trying to figure out what all of that means. So to boil it all down I'll try to sum it all up here: The JASO specifications indicate increasing performance levels with FB, FC, and FD specifications. The requirements include lubricating ability, cleanliness, smoke potential, and a few physical properties. ISO and JASO are essentially the same with a few minor differences. The performance specifications give machine manufacturers real and tangible minimum requirements to maintain their equipment and ensure high performance. With these specifications, we can look at specific performance differences between products to determine which is the best for our machines without having to rely on uncertain performance claims by lubricant companies or machine manufacturers. Useful Links - JALOS M345:2003 Specification manual JASO M345 Registered Lubricant List
  4. Hey guys, I am wanting to buy a new bike. Should I get a YZ250F or a YZ250? Why or why not? Any opinion helps.
  5. I currently have 05 yz that I just dumped a ton of cash into. I was searching for a set of 06+ forks and I found a titled 13 yz125, the guy say it runs like shit,has a cracked case, needs chain, sprockets and probably a bunch of other shit. My plan was to swap my motor and all the other new parts over to it since my bike doesn't have a title. Is it worth 1500 and a 6 hour round trip?
  6. Wanting a more progressive torque curve, more traction, more low - mid range power. Not sure which ones of these pipes is better. I was told the FMF Fatty was the way to go, but reading up on the Gnarly makes me think perhaps its the gnarly? Anyone actually have experience with both?
  7. malignity

    GPX TSE250R two stroke thread

    It's been nearly a season now and I realized the GPX TSE250R two stroke doesn't have it's own thread here yet. So what exactly is the GPX TSE250R two stroke? She pulls inspiration from a number of different machines pooled together in a blend that just simply "works". The engine is based off the Yamaha DT230 Lanza engine, a bike never seen in the United States, with it's closest relative being the Yamaha WR200 here. After Yamaha ceased production, the entire DT/WR two stroke line was purchased from Yamaha and continued development and production in the Loncin plant that assembles the current BMW GS650 today. A few developmental changes were made such as removal of the kick starter and relocation of the electric start to under the engine, very similar to how Beta's is designed, lowering center of gravity. She's 6 speed, electric start with mechanical oil injection, counter balanced engine, Mikuni TM30 carb and electronic power valve. The engine is a 225cc two stroke rated at 40 horsepower that features extremely linear near four stroke power delivery. I currently have 24.1 hours on mine now and mine has seen everything from freeway to bark busting single track (mine is plated/street legal). Lots of quality parts on it from factory, including extra wide pegs, CNC machined hubs and rims, dual walled stainless steel expansion chamber, skidplate with linkage protection, lights, speedo, Taiwanese Fast Ace suspension using primarily Showa internals. I'm really digging her so far. Low and mid range is pretty on par with a 250 with a top end about on par with a KDX 220.
  8. So this is a question i have been wondering about for a while. I have seen on youtube many people blow their 125/250s up flying down the highway and let off the gas(coast) and not use the clutch. So my question is, is it harmful to engine brake a 2 stroke while woods riding? Might seem weird but i need an answer. I trail ride and ride some technical stuff on a TTR230. A lot of it's tight and open straight away's into corners and up and down steep hills (So i won't really be getting into higher gears, rpms as say you would like on an mx track). Say i am flying through the woods down a straightaway into a corner, i only use my front and back brakes, no clutch, is that bad for the engine? Also going down a hill, locking up the back wheel, feathering the clutch, is that bad for the engine? The questions i asked above may be stupid but if someone with some experience riding woods on a 2stroke could fill me in, i would definitely appreciate it. thanks TT!
  9. Does anybody in a snowballs chance in hell have a needle for a 1998 kx125 carb? I broke mone and guess what... obsolete. The part number is 0XHHK, or 16009-1982. Any help appreciated
  10. Today I blew/ lost a head screw on my new-to-me KTM 150 XC two stroke. The bike runs, no odd noises, but lacks compression. My friend and I ran a compression test after the ride. It read around 100-95 pounds. However, when my friend and I did this test, we did not replace to screws or torque them to spec, as one head bolt was lost. Could our reading be off? The P/O claimed a new top end... Thanks!
  11. Alby Swadling

    Overheated 2 stroke

    Hi just looking for some advise as i just bought a tm 300 2 stroke 2004 and unfortunately its overheated and damaged the piston and head so i was just wondering as im new to 2 strokes what kind of damage ive done and what else to check for and you’ll see the damage in the photos. For some reason the air filter has come off which i thought it would make it run a bit lean plus i did the fuel ratio at 40-1 rather than 33-1 so yeah my fault but im looking to repair the bike and to get it back running again.
  12. Jdavis352

    Noise!!!!

    Alright I have searched and have done research on forums before but have never posted. New guys get eaten alive, I don't mind just help me out. I have an 05 yz250 that runs like a champ, well I came across a 2015 yz250 that I couldn't pass up but she don't sound right to me. Got it to the house, fires up, idles correctly, and revs smoothly. Little bit about the bike, it has a fmf fatty with the Q slip on that looks like a four stroke pipe, but no other real engine mods. At the top of the power band the bike sounds as if the power valve is loose or there's maybe a slight piston slap. I have had a bike with piston slap and it doesn't come to me as that. This is where I need your help. It does the loud cackle noise at the top of the band, then falls smoothly back into the power as it revs down some. Also when down shifting to bring on the power it makes a slight delay with a weird sounding small pop(kinda like a back fire, just quieter). Any help before I open this thing up would be helpful!!!! Thanks in advance ✊🏼
  13. I have a 1995 yz125 2t and the thing runs pretty good, well at least it seems to have no issues but it does not need the choke to start the bike. I changed the main, idle, and needle jets all to factory specs for my temperature and altitude. The bike will start first kick when 100% cold and will start first kick when warm but it just does not need the choke. So I'm wondering if I'm hindering my bikes performance in a way because it does not need the choke. Suggestions?
  14. Lachie carwo

    LAMS approved 2t

    does anyone know if a 1997 Yamaha WR250z is legal on your L's/LAMS?
  15. Today I just realized I made a pretty big mistake. I ordered Motorex cross power 2T to use for pre mix in my brand new 2018 250XC. Not until after my first two rides did I realize that they actually shipped me the Motorex cross power 4t 10w50. I mixed this at 55:1 without realizing it. The bike has 1.5 hours on it and it came from the dealer with about a half a tank of properly mixed gas so I think I only ran 1.5 to 2 gallons through with this mixture. So my question is, am I at any risk of causing any damage? I'm thinking it should lubricate OK maybe just a little excessive carbon build up? I drained the fuel and refilled with a proper mixture, just paranoid since it is a brand new bike
  16. Brian c birmingham

    Need info im confused thoroughly

    I dont know if this is the correct location for a question about specific bike and i apologize in advance if it is not. I am trying to put a rm125 that i acquired without a motor back together. I have purchased a 2000 bottom end and i am having a hard time discerning what cylinders are compatible. I have seen mention of pre-96 cylinders on a 2000 bottom end and i have been told that a 2003 matches up although different casting numbers. I was pretty confident 96 to 00 were compatible but i ran across an ad where the seller said a 97 was not because power valve was set up different than other years. Now, im lost and unsure of what to think. I have read many posts on this site where the people knew this stuff backwards and forwards but it was in the context of swapping motors. If any of you could inform me of the compatible years for a top end, i would greatly appreciate. I would also like to know why a 97 is different and how that makes cylinder incompatible. Excuse my ignorance as i had been away from dirt bikes for many years and then purchased a new ktm250 that i never worked on before it was stolen and i rebuilt kx250f last year but im not familiar with power valves per se. I was about to give up after the kxf was stolen also but i am doing my best to get a cpl bikes going. Thank you
  17. canonball.z

    KX 250 high rpm bog

    This is going to be very long winded, but I know there are people who know a lot more about 2 strokes than I do that I need help from, so I want to provide as much detail as possible. I bought a 2003 KX 250 about six months ago. When I first got it, I replaced the air filter, cleaned the carburetor, and put in a new spark plug. Up until about a month ago, that was all I had done to the bike besides minor stuff that doesn't relate to the actual performance of the bike. It rode hard and fast since I had bought it without a hiccup (besides some fouled plugs), but on a ride about a month ago, I had been riding it decently hard for about an hour and a half when I tried to really open up coming up a slight hill and it sounded like the bike hit a rev limiter. It still had all of its low end power and otherwise ran perfectly fine, but it was like it could not get into the powerband. After keeping off the pipe and letting it coast as much as I could on the way back home, it seemed to get a bit better, where it would just get there, but any farther and it would sputter like crazy and bog. Just two weeks ago, I came to the conclusion (to the best of my knowledge at least) that the power valve was sticking shut, and since I was going to take the cylinder off to clean the power valve anyways, I decided to rebuild the top end. After cleaning the power valve, replacing the piston, and repacking the silencer, I broke it in nice and good and let it rip. It sounded crisp and had all of its power everywhere it was supposed to have it. I felt like I was riding a new bike, so I enjoyed that for about half an hour. Next day, I hop on it and warm it up, take off and it bogs when I get to the powerband. Every time I've gotten on it since, it's a different story. One minute, it's bogging like heck, I sit for a few seconds to calm my frustration, take off and it rips with a sound like that of angels singing. It always runs exactly the same at low rpms, but very different at high rpms. I hate to admit it, but I cleaned the power valve without completely disassembling it, so I think that may be my problem. I'd just hate to tear the bike apart again, thoroughly clean the power valve assembly, put it back together and then my problem still not be fixed. Not sure if it's important, but it does foul plugs quite a bit. It has since I got it though and it ran good before this problem started. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for reading.
  18. I should start out by saying that I am 42 years old. I have about 3 years of off road riding experience (including the last year and a half with the Beta) in the last 24 years. Living in Kansas there is no reason to own a dirt bike if you can't travel. So as life changed and I met some guys that went on regular motorcycle trips to Missouri, Arkansas, Colorado, and Utah. I decided to take the plunge. After some research and some help from TT I ignored my KTM riding friends advise, and bought the 2017 Beta 500 RR-S. In a short amount of time I was easily keeping up with my friends who have been riding for many decades more than me. I am an aggressive rider (or so I am told), but I feel like my Beta constantly makes me a better rider than I actually am. It is extremely ridable, finds traction everywhere, and goes up anything you point it at. I am not talking about Kansas hills, I am talking about some of the best riding in America. The bike got it's first real test @ Taylor Park Colorado. It went up everything from Star trail, to timberline, to Flag mountain. With a little clutch slip there was nothing that it wouldn't do, it just stayed under me and kept me side by side with my much more talented riding companions. I can't stop smiling. The 500 is amazing. It is what everyone says it is. I read all the opinions about other bikes but I couldn't imagine that another bike could be more fun or capable. This last winter with the bike tucked away in the garage I began to read more and more in the 2t forums and was confronted by a couple of 2t douche bags that challenged me to not knock it till I tried it. So I found a used 2016 300 RR and bought it. To begin with it was WAY different. I could tell immediately around the house (30 acres) that I did not know how to ride a two stroke. I was slightly titillated but mostly terrified. I know it is not the hardest hitting bike made but it felt like it to me. This culminated in a loop out that required a new sub-frame, air box, plastics, and some ice strategically applied to several parts of my body. When the bike and I healed, we scheduled a multi day trip to Chadwick Missouri to learn a little about each other. I can only say, WOW. This bike is amazing. While the weight of the two bikes is similar the 300 feels much lighter. I don't know if it is the quickness of the 2t or the way the motor is set up, but it feels much more nimble. This does not mean that I felt the 500 was lacking. It did everything well, I can't explain it but the 300 was so so sweet. I expected to have to keep it reved out going up the steep technical trails and that was not the way it was at all. Many of the steep technical trails were easily dispensed with in second or third gear ( I know, you told me). All of this was done at low RPM"s. The bike making about as much nose as a sewing machine, just purring up the hills. This goes for hills like Dairy Queen, Strawberry hill, and many of the rocky climbs with large rock ledges. I was climbing things that my buddies wanted no part of. It was incredible. We met up with someone who rode with us for a while who claimed to be an intermediate B rider and the Beta and I were keeping up just fine and climbing hills that he wanted nothing to do with. This is not to promote myself at all. These bikes are amazing. With a little bit of practice of some of the skills from Barry's cross-training vids and the tips some of you gave me combined with these great bikes and you can accomplish a lot. At the end of the day I love my 500, buuuuuuut the 300 is stupid. I can't imagine grabbing the 500 unless I have some extended distance to cover at speed. The 500 is awesome for going 30 miles at 60mph to a technical trail..... but the 300 IMHO is so much more fun when you get there. In two weeks I am going to Arizona and then to Moab for a week and will be taking the two bikes but unless it changes the 300 is getting the nod for the majority of the riding. Thanks for all the input from the TT community. These are just my observations if you disagree, you are wrong. My opinion is just that, my uneducated opinion. Peace, Gary
  19. Hi! I am wondering if a 2 stroke would suit my type of riding best. I do trail riding, but not stuff that's really intense. I am 5'5 or 5'6. I currently have a KLX125 and I like it, but need more power! I am thinking a KDX200 would be the perfect two stroke, if I were tall enough. Same goes with the XR250r. Any suggestions would be great!
  20. RidingWithStyle

    Help controlling yz250 in the woods?

    Took this bike out for a ride and while riding it i noticed it was very snappy on throttle and honestly uncontrollable on slick hills, etc. the hit was so much i was scared of flying into a tree. Like some of you might know i am used to the 4 strokes power roll on and how its super controllable response. So how can i make the throttle/bike more controllable so i can roll the power on smoothly. Basically make it feel like a 4 strokes throttle in a way? Also i will be adding a 9oz fww to the bike after a few more rides to determine if its needed for me or not. I read a few articles online before coming here, saying to retard the timing a few degrees. 1. I am very unfamiliar with most motor work as in gaps, head mods, etc. Also heard changing to a G2 throttle might help but has anyone used it on a woods bike? Just let me know what you guys have done to knock the mx hit off the yz for woods below!
  21. QuinnEXC

    Float troubles

    After doing some adjusting to my float, my 2 stroke has started running a lot better than before but started acting a little bit funny. First, It's a little bit of a pain to start. Then, The idle feels low and it dies if not given gas. Also, if I'm on the clutch while coasting it tends to die. Lastly, bottom and mid power feel pretty good, but the top end power feels weak. Whenever I stop it pours a little gas out of the vent hoses. Is my problem still my float? If so, how do I adjust to fix this?
  22. 2fitty_zack

    1999 yz 250 wont start

    I went out riding for the day and on the way back home i fouled my plug so i walked it the rest of the way and i took a wire brush and cleaned my plug and it started first kick. I noticed it was a bit rich on the pilot so i adjusted the fuel/air screw and got it running really good but then i saw coolant steaming out of the radiator cap so i quickly turned it off and later in the week i diagnosed it as a blown head gasket so i ordered it and replaced it and didn't start but it backfires out the exhaust when i kick it. I even tried bump starting it towed behind a quad and still nothing but i heard it fire every so often but didn't start so then i started tearing the bike down cleaned the carb really good got all the jets, replaced the pilot air screw since it was missing parts, got a new spark plug cap since it was rusty inside and the plug was loose in there, took apart and cleaned the power valves, cleaned the spooge out of the expansion chamber and silencer but still wouldn't start so now i don't know what to do i think it might be a timing problem since its backfiring but i really need some more opinions before i start f-ing with it.
  23. Hey guys. I am looking into getting a lectron carb.... just wondering if anyone here has ever bought a 38mm lectron and not liked it and took it off? if you took it off, and have it just sitting in the shop... what didnt you like about it? why arent you running it?
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