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Found 43 results

  1. Hi, I'm new here, I've been searching around here learning things for the last week and though I'd join. I got an 84 xr350 (dual carb) not running for $500 aud (380 usd). Apparently it'd been sitting for 4 years so I took off the carbie and gave it a clean since it was completely gummed up with old fuel I did notice that the primary carb wasn't returning fully and the spring was a little soft. I found that it didn't spark and cleaned up all of the connections with sand paper and got that working. Yesterday I managed to kick it over and get it started. It was a little rough at first, only just idling then over a minute it slowly revved up and was idling fairly high. When I touched the throttle it revved up a lot and stayed there I shut it off then because I had to go to work. Now today it started up after a few kicks and revved up again, I turned the idle screw so it'd idle lower and it worked a little. I then used my fingers to close the throttle manually on the carb. When I did that it settled right down, down enough for it to stall. I re-set the idle needle and made sure the throttle was closed and it started up and idled really nicely. I decided to actuate the throttle by hand directly on the carb and when I did it sounded like it was alright then I did it again and got some exhaust pops and sounded rather lean. I closed the throttle all the way but it was stuck idling high. That's as far as I got, I feel like I might have to replace the throttle return spring, but I might also have an air leak. It's really eager to rev up and is pretty unstable. This is my first bike so I'm not exactly a master but I kinda know a few things, mainly from RC cars and full size cars. Am I on the right track? Does anyone with more experience and the time to read this essay know what's up?
  2. CrenulateMist

    1983 Honda XR350 Oil

    I am running conventional 20W40 oil in my bike, is this too heavy? Should I switch to synthetic oil? Thanks
  3. Hey guys new member to tt but have found lots of helpful info here before. So i have a couple questions i was hoping the community could help with. I just bought a 2017 husqvarna fe 350 i have only put like 2 hrs on it and like it so far but its definatly chocked off with the smog junk and the airbox reeds after the first hour of break in i put on the fmf 4.1 slip on thats all ive done so far and the pipe definatly made an improvment but now i have a some decel poping telling me its running lean. My question is, what map r ppl running ive herd the euro map works good but the dealer is saying theyve had mixed reviews. I plan on de smogging it probably get the bds emmissions delete kit. Setting it up mainly for woods but would also like to get some sm wheels eventualy. Any suggestions or tips espically by some one with the same bike or 250 would be mega thanks n cheers tt
  4. Highlander01

    1994 DR350SE starting issues

    Hi All, After searching and digging up info on this site for a while now, it's finally time to ask a question. First, I want to thank everyone for all the information I've found on here. It's been a huge help in bringing the DR back to life. As the title says, I have 1994 Suzuki DR350SE (electric start) that is having some starting troubles. It's actually my roommate's bike and it's been sitting for at least a year. He agreed to pay for all the parts and to let me ride it if I got it working (he's gone every summer and fall), so I read through the FSM and started with the basics. First thing I did was replace the battery and luckily it fired right up. After that, I put fresh fuel in the tank, swapped out the old cracked fuel lines for new ones, Adjusted the chain tension, changed the spark plug, changed the oil / oil filter, cleaned the bike up, and went out for a ride. It ran great accept for a lot of popping on deceleration when in gear, but after I got the bike good and hot and shut it off, it wouldn't start again (just kept cranking). I let it sit overnight and it fired up first try the next day. I took it for another long ride, turned it off and then tried to start it again. It fired up a second time, so I went out for another rip around town, came home, turned it off, and no dice. Since that day, I've taken the carb apart (which was way cleaner than expected), checked the jets, checked the float needle, etc, and gave it a quick clean. I put the carb back in and went to start it and it cranked but didn't turn over, so I pulled the plug and checked for spark. Nothing.. Broke out the multimeter and checked resistance on the ignition coil, pickup coil, and source coil. All were within the specs in the FSM. I cleaned the electric connectors which all looked a little dirty, but okay. I also checked the kill switches for the clutch and kick stand, thinking that one would be the culprit, but it appears that both have been removed and bypassed by the previous owner. At the end of a day of troubleshooting, I put everything back together and found a hill to try a bumpstart. It bumped on the second try and I went around for a quick ride. Came home, turned it off, and it wouldn't start. As it did the last few times, it would crank and crank and crank and not fire up. Battery still reads high 12v, plug doesn't appear to be wet, and the float bowl has plenty of fuel in it. I'm sure i'm missing something, but the only other thing I can think of that's left is the CDI unit... I've read that the ignition coil can be bad even though it's within spec, but it was replaced about a year ago. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Looking forward to getting this thing back on the road!
  5. gyodock

    GY 2016 KTM 350xc-f 002.JPG

    From the album: gyodock

    2016 KTM 350xc-f - Olins Fork Cartridge Inserts, FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler, Pro Circuit Linkage Arm, Torc1 Reaction Shift and Rear Brake Lever, P3 Carbon Pipe Guard, Acerbis Skid Guard, Mobie Linkage Guard, Acerbis Swing-arm Guards, RYD Crew Aluminum Handguards, Sicass Racing Tail Light Kit with Flush Mount LED Rear Turn Signals, Sicass Racing Handguards with Built-in LED Turn Signals, Rental Sprockets, Trail-Tech Stator Upgrade, ktmandhusky.com Fuel Rail and Anti-vibration Bar Ends, Guts Seat Cover, USB Charging Port, Misc Anodized Orange Aluminum Bling. My wife is getting jealous of the attention I am giving my bike!
  6. As I was inspecting my new-to-me bike that I just purchased, I noticed there is a grove on the back side of my front brake rotor that goes completely around it, and you can feel it with your finger nail. I have noticed some poor performance, but I figured it was because of the new pads that the previous owner installed just before I bought it hadn't seated yet. However, I've ridden a couple times and it doesn't seem to get much better, if any better at all. Is that enough to explain why when I pull in the brake as hard as I can, it only slows me down a little, instead of going into a stoppie and over the bars (as I wish it would)? Should I look into buying a brand new rotor? I have no pictures of it, I'll try to post some when I can.
  7. MotoXRacer_19

    KTM 2-stroke Overheating

    I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. My 2010 KTM 250 XC won't stop peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I've used 3 different radiator caps (two of the oem 1.8 bar caps and one CV4 2.0 bar) and it still continues to pee coolant as soon as the bike starts up. I just recently bought and installed brand new radiators [GPI on eBay for $88 (the seem fine just the welds are a bit crappy and you can see inside of the tubes where the metal from the welds drooped down but there are no blocks)] and silicone hoses (profactory hoses) thinking they were the problem since the old radiators were bent in like bananas. To my dismay that was apparently not the issue. I've had everything apart and looked at. Has brand new base gaskets, head gaskets, radiators, and radiator hoses. I've bled the radiators like the manual says and there are no bubbles like air leaking into the system or being in the system. The jetting is also perfect. The only thing I haven't changed out is the oem impeller in the water pump but it looks to be in great condition. Any ideas on how I can fix this problem before it gets worse? Also, has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to fix it? I ride it in mostly tight 0-10 mph trails and also some 10-20 mph trails.
  8. gyodock

    5b0b0df5763a9_GY2016KTM350xc-f003.JPG

    From the album: gyodock

    2016 KTM 350xc-f - Olins Fork Cartridge Inserts, FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler, Pro Circuit Linkage Arm, Torc1 Reaction Shift and Rear Brake Lever, P3 Carbon Pipe Guard, Acerbis Skid Guard, Mobie Linkage Guard, Acerbis Swing-arm Guards, RYD Crew Aluminum Handguards, Sicass Racing Tail Light Kit with Flush Mount LED Rear Turn Signals, Sicass Racing Handguards with Built-in LED Turn Signals, Rental Sprockets, Trail-Tech Stator Upgrade, ktmandhusky.com Fuel Rail and Anti-vibration Bar Ends, Guts Seat Cover, USB Charging Port, Misc Anodized Orange Aluminum Bling. My wife is getting jealous of the attention I am giving my bike!
  9. MotoXRacer_19

    2 Stroke Top End Problem

    Hey guys I was wondering if any of you could help me out. I’ve got a 2010 KTM 250 XC that just doesn’t rip like a normal two stroke should. When I get up to the top end power it just signs off really early, causing me to shift really early. I can’t figure out why it’s doing that for the life of me. My jetting is spot on for th altitude I ride, the spark plug is a perfect brown coffee color, (170 main, 40 pilot, Suzuki NECJ Needle on 3rd clip) so it can’t be that. (I went with the Suzuki needle because I read on here that it could give it more top end, it did but not the amount it should have) and it I just put on new reed petals for the V-Force 4 reed system, new FMF Fatty and FMF Turbinecore 2 pipes, stock gearing (13:50), yellow power valve spring (red spring doesn’t help either) aggressive engine map, and it still signs off early on top. I bought the bike used, and the previous owner had it choked up so it acted more like a four stroke. The only thing I haven’t looked at is if it has a fly wheel weight, but that wouldn’t necessarily make it act less wild like a two-stroke, would it? I need some suggestions and I would greatly appreciate the help!
  10. Does anyone know how to remove the quiet piece on the stock Ktm exhaust? Thanks
  11. Chris.GVS

    Arctic Cat 350 2014

    0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Model Type: Utility Warranty: 6 ENGINE Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Displacement (cc/ci): 366 / 22.3 Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Continuously Variable (CVT) Primary Drive (Front Wheel): Shaft Reverse: Yes WHEELS & TIRES Front Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 8-12 Rear Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 10-12 BREAKS Front Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION Wheelbase (in/mm): 48 / 1219 Dry Weight (lbs/kg): 588 / 266.7 Fuel Capacity (gal/l): 4.3/ 16.3 SEATS Number Of Seats: 1 DRIVE LINES Driveline Type: 4X4 Number Of Driveline Modes: 1 STORAGE Rear Rack: Standard Front Rack: Standard LIGHTS Halogen Headlight (s): Standard
  12. I would like to ask you for advice on rebuilding a Brembo clutch slave cylinder. I know that Maguras used to have a circlip and I was wondering how do you get the piston out from this one? Anything to watch out for? Thanks!
  13. 3yrs ago I parted ways with my trusty KTMs and jumped onto the Yamahas... Starting first with a YZ250 that I built into the ultimate woods bike, it was 'almost' everything one could want. But it did lack the e-start, HO stator and 6spd, things that I really wanted as the ultimate machine. Then a new YZ450F made it into my garage which I built into a woods machine (the FX didn't exist at the time). All the power in the world so a 6spd wasn't needed. But I still lacked the button and fat stator. Shortly after a large crash and some broken body parts, I then moved to the new YZ250FX which has been with me the last year. Coming with a near perfect 6spd, a 100+W stator and the magic button it should have been near perfect. But I did want for more. The bike was heavier then it's competition, taller and underpowered, but overall probably the best beginner/average riders bike available. There is no question that the Yamahas could be anything you wanted. I had great success on all 3 bikes with near bullet proof reliability, fantastic motors, outstanding suspension and unquestionable race worthiness adding a few wins and multiple podiums to my resume. But... ...when KTM introduced their new 16 models, it was hard not to look over the fence to see if the grass was greener. Could my criterias be met? So on Saturday, I picked up a new 2016 KTM 350xcf. On paper, 'most' of all criterias are met. -6spd? Check! -Lightweight? Check! -Less power then the 450, but more then the 250FX? Check! -Magic Button? Check! -HO stator? Uncheck! So outside the stator, the 350xcf is looking pretty good on paper. Why not a new 250/300 2t? As mentioned in another thread, I rode a couple 300s and wasn't neqrly as impressed as I wanted to be. So why the 16 over the 17? Cost and cost alone was pretty much the deciding factor. Outside of the AER the bikes are virtually identical. With nearly a $2000 savings between the 2 it left money I table I could spend elsewhere. And after talking with a bunch of tuners, at worst if I can't get the 4CS working, the extra money can be used for another fork options such as a KYB internal setup, or CV cartridges. So, I started this thread to kind keep my trials and tribulations on update for you wonderful folk on TT. Adding my opinion, impressions, mods, results and all that other jazz... Initial impression while sitting on the stand seem good. I've been tearing it apart greasing everything, weighed a few parts and giving it the look over. I question if the bike is built for long haul. It seems extremely well put together, but almost too well. The plastic lines blend well with no areas for hangups as well the bike feels thins, especially compared to any current Yamaha 4t. The bike also feels low and long, where as the Yamaha 4ts feel tall and short. Equally so the bike feels light and easy to throw on a stand with well placed grab handles.
  14. ThumperTalk

    ATK 350 1992

    0 reviews

    MOTORCYCLE TYPE Dirt (not MX) ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 350 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4 Speeds: 6 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 6 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 248
  15. Msteinbach147

    2012 ktm 350 injector

    Hi guys I have. A 2012 ktm 350 sxf and I'm going to buy a new fuel injector for it and I was wondering if the 2013 ktm 350 sxf fuel injector will fit in the 2012?
  16. I just stumbled across a hell of a deal on a brand new FMF Megabomb for a 2014 KTM 350 SX-F. However, I have a 2014 KTM 350 XC-F, and on the ad it says the pipe fits the SX-F models but says nothing about fitting the XC-F. Does anyone know if the head pipes on the SX-F's and XC-F's are interchangeable? I assume they would be since they are identical motors, but I don't want to order it and be SOL.
  17. MotoXRacer_19

    New Bike! KTM 350 XC-F

    I did it. Finally quit beating around the bush and decided to go for it. Now the proud owner of a bran-USED 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. Bought it today, only had the chance to ride it down the road and back and I think I’m in for a treat. Previously had a 250 XC that I bought used November of 2016. Kept buying parts and constantly working on it to get it where I want it, but with out any luck so I decided to go back on the four stroke route. Anyone have any recommendations for aftermarket on it? It already has a lot including a skid plate, boyesen super cooler water pump, hand guards, rear brake rotor guard, radiator braces, mouse bibs in the tires, brand new Dunlop MX 3 S tires, radiator fan, shorai lithium battery, side grab bar, and ktm silicone hoses.
  18. 2017 KTM 350 exc-f Acerbis over sized tank Baja design led Precision Concept Suspension (for desert) forks/shock Rekluse Automatic Clutch Rekluse Rear Brake Ktm powerparts exhaust Acerbis Skidplate Euro Rear tail Light/Under Fender Ktm powerparts disk brake rotor Maxxis tires desert i/t - front and rear bib mousse foam tubes SunLine clutch and brake levers *All done by "All American Ktm" from Ramona
  19. MotoXRacer_19

    KTM 350 XC-F Oil

    Hi guys, probably a stupid question here, but I figure you can never be too safe. I have some Motorex 15w-50 from my 2010 KTM 250 XC (which I sold) and I was wondering if it would be okay to run in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F which calls for Motorex 10w-50? What would be the side effects of running a 15w-50 instead of a 10w-50? Also, if you have any suggestions of good oil to run, please feel free to recommend it and give your reasons why. Thanks guys. (Attached is my 350)
  20. Hi, Hoping someone can help me in diagnosing the issue I'm having with my 2016 KTM 350 sx-f. Im currently on my 7th battery in just over a year, something is constantly draining them to the point its unable to be recharged. I have recently upgraded the battery tray and battery to the new 2018 bigger one and after 1 night the battery was dead. I have replaced the fuel pump relay as i thought this may have been the cause but does not seem to have solved the issue. When checking voltage and stuff the only thing i can think of is that it looks like the power is never shutting off as everything is live even 5 minutes after engine being turned off. This is with a new relay just fitted. Should there always be power? I assume not as this must be why the batterys drain overnight. Can anyone please advise on any ideas or anything I could check? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you
  21. Chris.GVS

    Arctic Cat 350 2015

    0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Model Type: Utility Warranty: 6 ENGINE Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Displacement (cc/ci): 366 / 22.3 Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Continuously Variable (CVT) Primary Drive (Front Wheel): Shaft Reverse: Yes WHEELS & TIRES Front Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 8-12 Rear Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 10-12 BREAKS Front Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION Wheelbase (in/mm): 48 / 1219 Dry Weight (lbs/kg): 588 / 266.7 Fuel Capacity (gal/l): 4.3/ 16.3 SEATS Number Of Seats: 1 DRIVE LINES Driveline Type: 4X4 Number Of Driveline Modes: 1 STORAGE Rear Rack: Standard Front Rack: Standard LIGHTS Halogen Headlight (s): Standard
  22. ThumperTalk

    Arctic Cat 350 2011

    0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Model Type: Utility Warranty: 6 ENGINE Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Displacement (cc/ci): 366 / 22.3 Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Continuously Variable (CVT) Primary Drive (Front Wheel): Shaft Reverse: Yes WHEELS & TIRES Front Tire (Full Spec): AT 24 X 8-12 Rear Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 10-12 BREAKS Front Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION Wheelbase (in/mm): 48 / 1219 Dry Weight (lbs/kg): 588 / 266.7 Fuel Capacity (gal/l): 4.3 / 16.3 SEATS Number Of Seats: 1 DRIVE LINES Driveline Type: Selectable 4X2 / 4X4 Number Of Driveline Modes: 1 STORAGE Rear Rack: Standard Front Rack: Standard LIGHTS Halogen Headlight (s): Standard
  23. ThumperTalk

    ATK 350 1993

    0 reviews

    MOTORCYCLE TYPE Dirt (not MX) ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 350 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4 Speeds: 6 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 6 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 248
  24. Gday guys Would just like too know if someone can confirm the crankcase breather hose routing on a 2014 350exc-f? It goes from the top of the head next too the sparkplug and I notice it then goes into the housing that connects too the airbox side of the throttle body? So its not actually going into the airbox itself but after it abit before next too the hose clamp on the boot which then is connected too the throttle body? (So its past the air filter in the little tube that lips around the throttle body) I can post a picture if it will help I'm just at work at the moment I just found it strange that if oil were too leak out in a crash or something that it would fill straight into the throttle body and not the airbox?
  25. TomballD

    DR350 Carb Part Identification

    So when rebuilding my carb on my 99 DR350SE I realized I have a problem. The metal tubing that spans top to bottom on the right hand side of the carb is broken at the top threaded connection. First of all, what does this do? I assume its part of the pilot circuit but cant really find a good schematic or free service manual. Secondly, does anyone know where I can source this part? It's not in any of the rebuild kits, nor is available through BikeBandit or the likes. Any ideas? I have attached a picture that shows the part in question. Thanks!
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