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Found 75 results

  1. Gday guys Would just like too know if someone can confirm the crankcase breather hose routing on a 2014 350exc-f? It goes from the top of the head next too the sparkplug and I notice it then goes into the housing that connects too the airbox side of the throttle body? So its not actually going into the airbox itself but after it abit before next too the hose clamp on the boot which then is connected too the throttle body? (So its past the air filter in the little tube that lips around the throttle body) I can post a picture if it will help I'm just at work at the moment I just found it strange that if oil were too leak out in a crash or something that it would fill straight into the throttle body and not the airbox?
  2. I just pulled the spark plug from an 2014 350 KTM EXC-F after a season and I don't know what to say. Bike is euro map, stock motor, stock pipe with db killer in. Only things removed were catalytic converter, lambda sensor, air restrictors on the intake nozzle and on the air filter. TPS is set at 0.59 . It shouldn't be rich, but looks like it, and there's also the build up on the lip.... I didn't do the plug chop test yet, and I was wondering if you are familiar with this type of look. Thanks!
  3. Bought my 2015 EXC-F brand new 3 years ago, and haven't gotten to ride her as much as I'd like, but just got back from a 4 day trip in the Utah desert, and for the first time saw some of the shortcomings on my bike. Brand new I just got basic parts installed like a grab handle, skid plate, LED blinker bark busters, etc., but nothing to modify the way the bike performs. After doing some desert riding and some hill climbs for the first time, I think it would be nice to have a little better hold-up in the suspension, and better low-end torque/power delivery. I've changed the gearing over to 13/48, which seems fine for all around riding. My local riding areas are more woods and trails then open desert, but getting out in the desert and on some of the whoops (and riding my buddies '17 suzuki 250 MX'er) I realized how soft the suspension is. So there's two things I want to look at. First would be the suspension. I haven't even touched the clickers on it since I got the bike, as I'm 170 pounds and I'm told the bike is basically set up perfectly for me from the factory. That, and I had a bad experience with my old Yamaha where I never could get the suspension set up right and I'm kind of afraid of messing with it to a point where I'm lost and can't get back to the pretty good factory feel. The suspension seems set up really nice for the trails, but it would be great if it held up a little better in any jumps and whoops. Comparing to the MX bike I feel like I have to time my body position and throttle just right to get a smooth ride in the whoops, where the MX'er you can just power through. So, if I go a couple clicks in one direction or the other, can I keep the plushness in the woods and improve the performance on jumps and whoops, or do I need to start spending big $$ to get a noticable improvement in this department? On the power delivery, when I got the bike the dealer offered to put on an Akropovic pipe and re-map the bike to match. They said it would run a little cooler and bring on more power. Since I hadn't even ridden it yet, I figured I'd put some miles on it and decide later. After talking to the same dealer last week they said they can no longer adjust any mapping, but they could put on the pipe. I don't see what the point would be of bolting on a pipe if I can't adjust the mapping to take full advantage of it. I'd like to increase the low end torque, mostly. So, what options do I have to improve the power output and delivery? Thanks in advance! And because every post is better with pics... Here's one from Swingarm City in Utah
  4. Hi, I'm seriously thinking about putting a Vortex in my 2017 EXC 350. Has anyone done this yet, and what was your experience? Interested in experience with the 450 and 500 also. I really don't want to get fancy with tuning - just put it in and find a map that I want. I will be removing the two screens in the exhaust outlet, and removing the reeds. Thanks in advance, Toby
  5. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Model Type: Utility Warranty: 6 ENGINE Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Displacement (cc/ci): 366 / 22.3 Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Continuously Variable (CVT) Primary Drive (Front Wheel): Shaft Reverse: Yes WHEELS & TIRES Front Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 8-12 Rear Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 10-12 BREAKS Front Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION Wheelbase (in/mm): 48 / 1219 Dry Weight (lbs/kg): 588 / 266.7 Fuel Capacity (gal/l): 4.3/ 16.3 SEATS Number Of Seats: 1 DRIVE LINES Driveline Type: 4X4 Number Of Driveline Modes: 1 STORAGE Rear Rack: Standard Front Rack: Standard LIGHTS Halogen Headlight (s): Standard
  6. From the album: gyodock

    2016 KTM 350xc-f - Olins Fork Cartridge Inserts, FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler, Pro Circuit Linkage Arm, Torc1 Reaction Shift and Rear Brake Lever, P3 Carbon Pipe Guard, Acerbis Skid Guard, Mobie Linkage Guard, Acerbis Swing-arm Guards, RYD Crew Aluminum Handguards, Sicass Racing Tail Light Kit with Flush Mount LED Rear Turn Signals, Sicass Racing Handguards with Built-in LED Turn Signals, Rental Sprockets, Trail-Tech Stator Upgrade, ktmandhusky.com Fuel Rail and Anti-vibration Bar Ends, Guts Seat Cover, USB Charging Port, Misc Anodized Orange Aluminum Bling. My wife is getting jealous of the attention I am giving my bike!
  7. ThumperTalk

    ATK 350 1993

    0 reviews

    MOTORCYCLE TYPE Dirt (not MX) ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 350 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4 Speeds: 6 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 6 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 248
  8. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Model Type: Utility Warranty: 6 ENGINE Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Displacement (cc/ci): 366 / 22.3 Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Continuously Variable (CVT) Primary Drive (Front Wheel): Shaft Reverse: Yes WHEELS & TIRES Front Tire (Full Spec): AT 24 X 8-12 Rear Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 10-12 BREAKS Front Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION Wheelbase (in/mm): 48 / 1219 Dry Weight (lbs/kg): 588 / 266.7 Fuel Capacity (gal/l): 4.3 / 16.3 SEATS Number Of Seats: 1 DRIVE LINES Driveline Type: Selectable 4X2 / 4X4 Number Of Driveline Modes: 1 STORAGE Rear Rack: Standard Front Rack: Standard LIGHTS Halogen Headlight (s): Standard
  9. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  10. It’s ben a long time since I’ve ben on this app but got a question for you ktm 2020 ktm guys Recently got my 2020 ktm350sxf . I got like 3 hours on it any of you guys have any flameout issues or Inconsistent throttle? The best way to explain it is if I come into a corner grab the clutch use the rear brake to turn get in throttle and drop it sometimes it’ll just backfire and die on me. It’s not every lap but it Atleast happens once in a 30 minute Moto. Enough to cause concern and annoyance. I did get a 2 year warranty on the bike, I’ve ben looking at the fuel tuners and the fuel rails they have to supposedly fix the flameout problem but not sure if that’ll void my warranty or not? Anyone have any similar issues if so what did you do to fix it?
  11. Hey! Plan to get 1 of these bikes but got some questions on which is best for my situation/need So my use of 1 one of these bikes will be: When im home i will use it as a street bike stock, only supermoto tires and changed gearing for street. I will not be going for more than 1 hour on the Street without pauses. Im often on a country place i know where there is forrests/woods with mixed types of trails all over the place where i have always wanted to go and explore as a kid. When im there i will change to normal stock tires and gearing So my questions are: How is the Fe 350 on road with Supermoto setup compared to the Fe 450 with same setup? What speed can the 350 reach without screaming/very high RPM compared 450? Can the Fe 350 hit 80 mph without very high rev? Because i wont be driving faster than that on road since that is 10 mph faster than the fastest roads here sort of. If the 350 can hit that without problems/super high RPM then is there is there really need for the 450? Why i considered the Fe 450 is because i want something that i will not sell withing in some months, that could be a possibility of happening if its too heavy compared to the Fe 350 etc but i mean POWER wise. I want a bike that i wont be bored of because it lacks power or slow etc, because i am not sure about that with the Fe 350, i dont know if i would want more power after a week of riding with it and thats why considering the Fe 450. On the forrests/woods area, is the 450 super heavy? The lighter the better because i want something that wont be too heavy for me when im exploring areas i have always wanted for years and not sit on a bike that i cant even move with, with my 140 lbs of weight. So the concerns for the 350 is: Too slow for road? Concerns for the 450: To heavy for offroad/forrests? (I will not be able to answer what my riding experince is questions etc, sorry and sorry for a lot of texts) Thanks if you could help ❤️ 🙏
  12. Hey all, im shopping for my first two stroke. I’m a woods rider and I’ve found what looks like a great deal on an 250 sx. Changes in bike thus far are lower gearing on chain and softer spring on shock, bark busters and handlebar risers. I will certainly need an xc gas tank and probably work on forks. Anything else I can/should do to make this single track worthy?
  13. Hi! I got a killer deal on a 1985 XL350R last fall and rode it around a bit, bought the gasket/seal kit for the entire engine, it was seeping oil. With the unscheduled free time I currently have I decided to tackle that project. Things are going smooth all except for this... when I opened the crank case up there was a tiny metal “cup” just sitting in the bottom (circled where it was sitting on the photo). I cannot for the life of me find where it goes, I’ve scoured the web for photos, looked at parts exploded view diagrams and spoke with a couple of the guys at the local motorcycle shop. I found one spot (Also marked on photo) that it’ll fit but photos of this side of the crank case online seem to show the hole (in the case wall between piston rod and timing chain) being open and unobstructed. Please help!! I’m still waiting on some parts in the mail (things shipping slow these days) but I’d like to start getting this thing out back together!! thanks!
  14. Anyone know if you can change the lug sizes of the cone valves to fit the large axle instead of the small? Found a really good deal on them but my bike has the large axle and the forks have the thin axle.
  15. Does anyone know if a sub-frame from a 2016 KTM 350 XCF will fit on a 2016 350 XCF-W? KTM lists separate part numbers (I’m told), but I thought the general base parts on these bikes were the same. I hit a tree pretty hard and bent the original. Thought of trying to straighten it, but reconsidered seeing as it is aluminum. I’m trying to replace the part myself and save some much needed cash as I work in the sports- television industry and have been out of work for over 1&1//2 months due to the Coronavirus. I found a sub-frame from a ‘16 350 XCF on EBay and am thinking of pulling the trigger. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
  16. Seems to be very little out there on this newly announced line from KTM. Anyone seen one of these things in real life yet? Any early reviews. I’d even take rumors at this point. Would love to get one of these bc (on paper) it looks like a great mix between the 350 xcf and exc.
  17. So when rebuilding my carb on my 99 DR350SE I realized I have a problem. The metal tubing that spans top to bottom on the right hand side of the carb is broken at the top threaded connection. First of all, what does this do? I assume its part of the pilot circuit but cant really find a good schematic or free service manual. Secondly, does anyone know where I can source this part? It's not in any of the rebuild kits, nor is available through BikeBandit or the likes. Any ideas? I have attached a picture that shows the part in question. Thanks!
  18. Was surprised to see this thread doesn't exist yet (that I could find), so I guess I'll lead us off. Oh course these are things I've done over the last few weeks, not just today Still have a few more mods planned.
  19. '19 350 EXC-F, de-smogged, uncorked, Vortex, Rekluse Many say and have said that the OEM fully hydraulic (oil fed) cam chain tensioner on the 350 motors can be prone to collapsing in certain low oil pressure scenarios and allow catastrophic engine damage. Is all this just overhyped garbage being re-spewed on the internets? (ie--maybe was an issue on older bikes but not in 2019) Being a modern EFI 4t it has the tip over switch and will kill the engine after only 8 seconds of potential low oil feed. I know Nihilo, Rally Raid, and Dirt Tricks make tensioners that could be smarter or more fail-safe at preventing collapse than the OEM design. Nihilo is a fully manual adjuster that also blocks off the oil feed port, sending oil that would feed the OEM tens'r up to the top end of the motor where it is more useful. It would require periodic adjustment. Rally Raid is also fully manual. But does not address the oil feed port. Also requires periodic adjustment. Dirt Tricks is basically the same as the OEM design but adds an internal spring and ratchet teeth to prevent collapse. It is self adjusting and is "set it and forget it" --Regarding the Nihilo: Not really wanting to tap and block off the port in my engine although fully confident in doing so. I presume you could remove the plug and return the OEM tens'r without issue if ever desired? It is ugly and basic looking and maybe bulky to get access for adjustments? --Regarding the Rally Raid: Very nice looking piece. I had contacted them and got mixed answers about the oil feed. Their design allows the oil that is normally fed to the tensioner to dribble its way back to the bottom end of the motor. Blocking the oil feed port is not part of their design/install. Has to be ordered from the UK. --Regarding the Dirt Tricks: I have concerns that the spring loaded/ratchet design could over tension the chain and lead to premature wear. The self adjusting is attractive, but not vital to me. And why bother being hydraulic if it is backed up with a spring and pawl design anyway? --Regarding the OEM: Hey---chill....obviously the guys at KTM know what is best for the engines they design, and would not be keen to warranty expensive motor parts if failures were frequently happening. Lets hear some insights? Lets talk oil pressure scenarios. Lets hear from people who have first hand experience with any (or all) of the 4 tensioner designs. Lets talk about engine safety, longevity, and wear with the different designs. And of course.....lets hear what you would do on your $11k 2019 model bike that you throw around, drop, and abuse, yet still care for meticulously!
  20. Hey guys/girls, I'm looking at buying a new KTM and don't want to spend the money without riding one first. I'm on the fence between the 250 and 300xc models. I race c class in local hare scrambles and will be racing my first GNCC (Camp Coker) in a few weeks (I'm pretty slow btw). I love casual trail riding as well. My current bike is an 09 200xc. My riding buddy has a 2020 300 husky and It is an absolute dream to ride, but at 170lbs wet I'm not sure I wouldn't be just as happy with a 250 and have less felt weight in the single tracks. I'm always looking for new people to ride with and would enjoy meeting up with someone at a local compound. We have a pretty awesome private 6mile loop in Sumter, SC also. Its tough to spend 10k on something without giving it a test ride... Hit me up if anyone's interested, KTM or not!!
  21. Me and a buddy playing on Tomahawk C Loop in Wolverine Michigan getting a few clips of the loop. #that300tho
  22. I just purchased a new 2020 350 Exc-f and want a new exhaust rather than chopping out the screen and unpacking the stock one. I called fmf and they stated they do not make the 4.1 for 2020 yet and have no time frame for when they will make it. Has anyone put a aftermarket exhaust on this bike yet? I’m a welder by trade and am considering buying a 2019 muffler and fabricating it to the stock header. Is this a poor idea? I plan on buying vortex Ecu and removing reeds as well thanks for any and all feed back!
  23. Yes, I am asking what to buy, I’m sure there are a million other threads with a very similar question, but before bashing me for posting, please understand that although I am talking about the whole topic, I want to focus a large portion of this post on the expense of the two bikes, mostly the repair expense. Now that we’ve got that cleared up, I’m an intermediate rider, bought a brand new 2018 250XC last year and love the bike. I race hare scrambles, but lately I’ve been riding MX a lot and thinking about trying a new 4 stroke and getting something that will handle the track a bit better (suspension-wise). I’ve been told the 350’s are about as expensive as they get to repair when it comes to the engine, but I don’t truly know what the case is. Does anyone have some round-about numbers, any comparisons to the expense of the 450? Yes, I know the 450 costs a few hundred more up front, I don’t care about that, just looking at maintenance. Also, I’m worried that being used to the 250 2 stroke (and I ride with the red spring in, I like an aggressive feel) I will have a hard time getting used to a 350F, kind of like getting on a 250F where I feel like I’m pounding on the throttle to keep it moving. Is this anything to be worried about? In every other way I lean towards 350, being a 2 stroke guy, liking the lighter-weight, more nimble-feeling bikes.
  24. 0 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Model Type: Utility Warranty: 6 ENGINE Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: SOHC Displacement (cc/ci): 366 / 22.3 Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Continuously Variable (CVT) Primary Drive (Front Wheel): Shaft Reverse: Yes WHEELS & TIRES Front Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 8-12 Rear Tire (Full Spec): AT 25 X 10-12 BREAKS Front Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc Rear Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION Wheelbase (in/mm): 48 / 1219 Dry Weight (lbs/kg): 588 / 266.7 Fuel Capacity (gal/l): 4.3/ 16.3 SEATS Number Of Seats: 1 DRIVE LINES Driveline Type: 4X4 Number Of Driveline Modes: 1 STORAGE Rear Rack: Standard Front Rack: Standard LIGHTS Halogen Headlight (s): Standard
  25. ThumperTalk

    ATK 350 1991

    0 reviews

    MOTORCYCLE TYPE Dirt (not MX) ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 350 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4 Speeds: 6 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 6 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 248
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