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Im trying to decide which 2016 xcf to buy, the 250 or 350. I've read reviews and alot are impressed with the 250, and others say the 350 installs more on the slow technical stuff. Im a intermediate rider and this will be my first four stroke. Im a little over 6'2 and 250lbs, i've sat on the 250 and its a good height for me. Ill be doing trails as well as motocross, i just dont know if i need the extra power from the 350. So if you have a 2016 xcf or have ridden one please give me your opinion. I only want 2016 input since its a completely new bike, i just dont want to buy a 250 and out grow it down the line. Thx

I'm still trying to make of my mind between the 17 300xc, and the 17 350 xcf.. I was talking to one of my buddies last night and he knows someone that has an older 300 that hes ridden a couple times.. He's telling me that his main concern with the two stroke would be having to change jets all the time and that they are really high maintenance bikes.. He worries that a two stroke would constantly foul plugs if you were lugging it around and that it would need a rebuild every 30 or so hours... and so on.... His thought is still that the two stroke is just a high revving maniac that would be terrible for much of the slower rocky stuff we sometimes ride. We ride a pretty good mix of everything from faster flowy trails to rock gardens and roots.. He has a hard time believing a 2 stroke is actually what KTM touts as it's slower more technical terrain bike.. I know that he is not really on base with the rebuilds and so on, and probably has a very outdated thought of what two strokes are, but it did really make me think anyway and since I've never had a two stroke, i have no idea... How touchy are the new 300's? Are you really having to change jetting and plugs all the time? whats the average rebuild interval? Any other stuff that makes them Finicky to own? Do they feel flighty and too light? My 350 with 13/52 and the Rekluse is a really good at just lugging and crawling up rocky hills and tough terrain and it screams when we get on the flowy stuff and fire roads. I'm sure the new 350 would be great too. It's a really tough decision when no one has a 300 I can borrow for the day... I'm 38 and really busy with work and family most of the time. So a bike that will need constant tinkering to run right doesn't sound appealing.. I like to work on the bike, but I do it to add parts or when I want to, not because I have to

! WARNING ! All of the following statements are my own personal experiences. There is no need to post up how wrong I am, that I hate KTM's, or how you have never experienced what I have: I post this information for those who might find it useful. There is no need to tell me " jesus, just go ride the thing" cause that makes no sense to me. I need it to be what I consider to be 'right', in order to have any fun . 4th ride on the 2013 (new to me) 3.50 XCF-W: OK, so this thing is pretty good. It's not good as in fast or incredibly amazing at one or all things, but because it is so darn easy to ride, all the time* ---------------------------------------------------- What I originally altered from stock ( not including protection items): - FMF 4.1 + Powerbomb, BDSB exahust manafold, Euro #4 Map, no TPS changes from stock (unknown), stock tires, respring and re-valve for 270lbs rider with full pack and gear. Front sag 35mm, rear sag 30/115. Scotts damper consistently at 11 turns out. Results at that time: difficult to hold a line, any line, flat power delivery, forks flexing upon slap down to the point of fear to ride fast, lightswtich/over heating yet soggy front and rear brakes, knees bent to much all the time to provide any real cornering power (pressing down on the pegs). Subtle pushing in all corners regardless or rpm or thottle. Changes since then, to now: - Knight Designs 1" lower pegs - Changed front tire pressure to 16 (!) - increased front damping 6+, decreased front rebound -4 (unknown previous baseline settings) - increased rear sag ot 38/120, decreased front sag to 30mm - reduced rear high-speed compression by .75 turns out - pushed forks down in clamps to nearly flush (yeah, I know) - lowered the idle by 5 clicks (rpm unkown) - rotated the bars to the -1 position - Scotts damper at between 6 and 8 out (less damping for less speed) - EBC carbon-X pads front and rear, Dirt Tricks Black solid discs front and rear (not really solid), Maxima 600 degree fluid Results: Better everything!....accept the fork flex, and the soft power. While the power is still 'soft' all the time (kind of like when you add a rekluse, the delivery feels like traction control on a car), it is very, very consistent, so you can use it to your advantge, as long as you don't try and steer with the rear wheel all the time. You end up going through corners very fast, with no fan-fair or noise or wheel spinning. It's odd.... Dunlop MX-51's must come with a free case of 'holy-crap's' built in, cause this tire is only good after it rains. Dry dust on clay it crazy sketchy, but it was much better with MORE air. THEY GOTTA GO. LOWERING the forks in the clamps was done because I believe the suspension tuner over-sprung the rear, and I was getting 'stink-bug' weight transfer to the front everytime I used the front brakes, or stood up. More compression in front also helped this. Running the Scotts damper stiffer than normal made the bike much easier to ride, without the feeling of being 'long and straight' all the time, like it does on my other bikes. The idle had always seemed to fast to me, but everyone was telling me it would run better off idle if the idle was high. Poppycock! The bike would push through every corner upon deceleration, making the already skate-y front end even worse. I lowered the idle to the point the full decel delivered full decompression braking. Waaaaay better, and now able to back to a higher gear The brakes (while still a bit spongy front a rear) are now useable to the point of forgetting about them. They just work, don't fade, don't squeal, don't overheat. Whew! The Lowered pegs WORK. Yes, they are too wide, and when you stand up you can 'feel' the bracket, forcing you to widen your stance a bit. And yes, they are slightly (1/4") lower than stock at the lowest point, but they are also wider, so when you lean, the are closer to the ground than stock......... I did not do any 'real' single track today (rock gardens, ledges) so how bad this will be is still unknown. The main thing is that now I can 'power corner', pushing down hard on the outside peg under full power, so the rear end does not wag or drift out of control. So, do I still 'hate' KTM's ? Wellllllll..........no. Not this one. The forks still flex to the point of being scary, and I would like a more 'robust' power delivery, but that is something I should probably get used to, rather than try and re-engineer. The worst part is my 30 year old friend on a 20 year old CR250 that I can barely ride it is so stiff and old-school, can smoke me anytime, any place. Fvker.