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Found 13 results

  1. I currently have a 2015 DRZ400S with 5k miles on it. I have the 39mm FCR carb installed, the airbox mod, and the MRD exhaust. I am looking to do the big bore kit with a set of hot cams to probably finish off the mods that I plan to do on the bike. My question is, with this bike at this mileage, is it necessary to replace or change anything else when doing a BB kit and cams? or is the bike still new enough and low mileage to get away with just bolting the kit and cams on? I just want to do it safely without risking anything, but also do not want to waste money on things I dont need. Thanks in advance for the input!
  2. MadBro

    Frogzskin 3x3

    I'm modding my air box next week. I read a lot about it. I intend to do the 3x3 mod. My local dealer recommended using frogzskin to cover the opening to help prevent water and dirt from getting it. Obviously, any amount of covering is going to limit the air flow again. I was thinking I might cut the hole, adjust the jetting, put the mesh on, and see how it runs. If it's too restrictive, I might cut additional smaller holes as needed. Does anyone have any experience with this mesh? By how much does it limit air flow?
  3. Cinnychai

    3x3 Drz400sm lost grunt

    I am stumped on what to do and looking for guidance. i have a 2018 Drz400sm. put it through the first service then went through with the 3x3 mod with JD jet and full FMF pipes. followed everything the jet kit said and tuned for sea level with blue needle in 3rd position 160 main and 25 pilot and fuel screw 2 1/2 turns out. Took the bike for a spin and it ran like crap. Idle is fine . But the bike just has no power anywhere and feels like a 50cc machine. Top speed was 95kmph on the road. So following this a took the carb apart and tried more jetting combos thinking it was just running lean. No success. Still slow with no response. I put the bike back to complete stock jets and exhaust and taped over the 3x3 hole to replicate the snorkel back in. And even then it ran the exact same no power and weak response. So currently the bike is sitting back at full fmf exhaust , blue needle in 4th position, 160 main 25 pilot and 2 1/2 turns out with 3x3 airbox standard air filter. All to which it runs slow like the throttle doesn't work but every now and then it surges in power for a second and dies away. i looked into the TPS ( throttle control sensor) and it is running the correct resistance of 5 at closed throttle and 3.9 open. What could be the problem? help would be much appreciated.
  4. Hi All, I've been recently embarked on jetting my DRZ400E FCR39 Slant equipped bike for optimal performance. Especially considering that I had a DRZ400S with a the CV carb before that I swear would outrun my current bike, it was faster, responded better and had way better fuel economy. That despite the fact that the E is supposed to have the high compression gasket, better carb and cams. I have since made some changes and conducted some tests and frankly need some input from the community and those with more technical knowledge or maybe just practical experience. The bike is a 2009 DRZ400E Australia model. I have Tumbleton & Twist tachometer / electronic speedo installed. Starting point ( should be standard ) Main jet 165 Main air jet 200 Pilot 45 Pilot air jet 60 Starter jet 65 Fuel screw turns unkown AP arm linkage worn a little more than the standard 0.6 mm play. OBDXP needle on 4th clip Snorkel removed Restriction between carb/engine removed. Throttle stop cut down poorly to only allow about 80% slide opening. Staintune full exhaust system ( the header barely fits through the frame, shock canister section ) Changes 1. Checked float level at 9mm ( no adjustment ) 2. Cut throttle stop properly to allow slide to just clear the bore of the carb, adjust throttle cables. This should already add some performance! There was still about 1cm or so slide left in the carb at "WOT" 3. Did the Eddie Mod on the AP. However I'm not yet convinced this was a good thing. Even though I removed the stopper from the AP diaphragm I still get separation from the black linkage and the "timing fork" at WOT. Now I have to sacrifice the timing to be later than it should be in order to not bind at WOT. The moment you adjust the timing to be correct you get bigger separation at WOT, and if you don't wire the linkage to the timing fork then you now have a really really long squirt without the stopper in place. 4. Purchased/installed JDS0001 James Dean Jetting kit. As part of the kit you get 155, 160, 162, 168 main jets, new 45 pilot jet and blue/red needle and a useless fuel screw because it won't work on bikes with an electric starter. 5. The carb was fully cleaned, inspected. 6. Fuel screw 1 3/4 turns. ( doesn't seem to make any difference to idling ) I live at about 1000ft but my riding could go from sea level to about 4000ft. After reading all I could about tuning carbs and what is established knowledge, I set about making the changes to my carb and may have wandered too deep down the rabbit hole. There are a number of things not touched on / explained in forum posts which are 1. Throttle position vs RPM All the talk is about throttle position as if RPM doesn't matter. But that cannot be accurate. An engine at WOT at 5k rpm has different needs than at 10k. The amount of air needed is different and therefore the amount of fuel. The air fuel ratio needed for best performance could also be different at various point across the RPM range. One of the few tuning articles around that did talk about this was tuning the Weber carbs on 911's. http://www.performanceoriented.com/performance-tuning-2/ This article also touch on how air is going to behave very differently to liquid and therefore fuel metering is affected and don't behave in a linear fashion regarding air speed / fuel metered. 2. Lean/rich condition testing on Main jet In my quest for determining the main jet for my bike I have questions instead of answers. Doing some tests I installed 160, 162, 165 and 168 jets all with the blue JD needle at 4th clip to keep things constant. This is done going WOT in 3rd/4th from about 5500 to 10000+. 160 is rubbish - airbox cover/ no airbox cover. 162 feels good and smooth across rpm range, with no airbox cover the mid range is stronger and top is almost as strong but seem "rougher" 165 doesn't feels as good as 162 with cover, with no cover it feels stronger than any 162 config by far in the mid range and equal at or stronger at top. 168 felt worse than 165/162 in different ways. The outcome then was not clear to me. I expected to have find a jet that runs better than any other configuration WITH the cover on. Instead I found a jet that ran better than anything else with the cover OFF. The only conclusion I could come to is that the airbox was actually restricting the bike at mid/high rpm and I should go with a 165 and modify the airbox. Which is what I did..... This made me question if this type of testing is valid. Removing the aircover make the bike leaner?? How really? The engine will only use the amount of air it needs. The only way it will go leaner is if before it was actually being restricted. This became quite apparent after modifying my air box at the top in a "reversible" way by making 5 x 2cm holes. After doing this, taking off the cover made almost no difference at all anymore because the engine was not being restricted anymore - at least that is my take away. 3. Airbox modifications I also decided I needed to be a bit more data driven in my approach, but it is hard without having access to a test track with very long straights or a dyno. Tuning a liter bike would be impossible because of the speeds involved. Especially considering I am now breaking away a bit from the "3x3" mod and established jetting. That however is already the case seeing as the DRZ400E just need the "snorkel" removed and then the hole is actually bigger than "3x3" and every bike will be different, with different exhausts and engine state and cams for all the different variants out there. Testing my bike over a set distance and measuring the max speed in 4th gear from 5500rpm going WOT. This is from about 75km/h at 5500rpm over a short distance accelerating for about 4-5 seconds almost revving out. Standard airbox - 113km/h, 113km/h, 114km/h Standard no cover - 114km/h, 114km/h, 115km/h Drilled with cover - 115km/h, 115km/h, 117km/h Drilled no cover - 116km/h, 116km/h, 118km/h Even after drilling the air box, running without the cover still had a higher speed at the end of the run. The issue I have is how much the needle could be interfering because of starting at 5500rpm. Because the run is so short and not really a max speed, maybe other circuits are having an impact. I have not repeated this test with the 162 or 168 main or any other needle. I'm willing to bet however that a 162 is going to perform worse than the 165. Not sure about 168 but I'm not going to open the airbox any more and will just jet for what I have drilled. Also, the AP could be interfering over such short runs... 3. Airbox mod / Low RPM/Mid RPM power? What I have observed is that with the cover off and post drilled airbox the mid range RPM power have really suffered on initial roll-on from a closed, 1/4 throttle position. Now I have not yet started adjusting the rest and playing with the needles as I wanted to get the Main jet sorted first, however I am concerned that the needle will not solve the issue and was wondering if there was some method to the madness and that by restricting the airflow of the airbox at WOT/high RPM it actually improves mid range power. This would probably depend on the engine design, cams and exhaust system. I suppose I will find out soon enough if I start changing the needle and can't get the bike to behave properly in the mid-range. Luckily it will be easy for me to close the 5 holes one at a time until I get the desired airflow if needed. More to follow......very happy for some input and thoughts..... Another really worthwhile read, very detailed and clear with pictures not found elsewhere like emulsion tube cut away etc. http://www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
  5. Auguste88

    DRZ 400 Rally

    Hi everyone, I am curently building my bike for light adventure riding. I am making a contraption that I would like to call a rally fairing. I am showing you what I have made so far. For the build; - oversize GPI racing radiators - oversize gaz tank - fuel pump - swapping the speedometer by a vapor - custom made bracket for fairing - fiberglass fairing/windsheild I have not adressed the wide ratio issue since I just completely rebuild the engine last winter. I got a 39 teeth sproket for highway speed. I have no experience whatsoever with fiberglass, any input would be apreciated. Thanks for the interest.
  6. Ok this is my first post so please give me a break if I am doing something wrong. I have a 2009 Drz400sm I just picked up recently. It has fmf exhaust, big bore, hot cams, fcr carb, 3x3 mod, raptor petcock, and i'm sure a few other things. I was aware that the bike had a bad idle when I bought it and it would die if you didn't keep the revs up with the clutch in. I fixed the loose throttle cables and it seemed to clear the idle issue up for the first ride after that. Soon after that it started to have a bad idle again. Now the bike will not even start. It turns over but just will not start. I tried to hook up a battery box to the battery and that didn't help. The battery is charged, the spark plug is new and sparking, the air filter looks fine and it seems like it may actually be getting too much fuel because there was fuel on the plug. It was having some overheating issues when it was running and I checked the coolant to see there wasn't much in there. Filled it up with new coolant. I drained the oil the next day and it was creamy colored. I imagine that it was coolant in the oil because the coolant level dropped significantly in the radiator. I checked the valve clearance and intake are over spec slightly. It measured .18mm (.15mm is max spec for hot cam). The exhaust clearance is in spec. I know the intake is a bit out of spec but I don't think that is why the bike isn't starting. Between the milky oil, the rough idle, not starting, valves out of spec, i'm honestly not even sure where to start with finding the issue. I haven't torn apart the carb yet because the guy I got it from said he cleaned it but I am wondering about the jets that are being used. Please if anyone could help me out some it would be greatly appreciated. The starter will turn all day but the motor does not want to turn on.
  7. 2017 DRZ400S (black and blue - I wonder if that should have told me something...) A bit of background: Did the 3x3 mod using the JD Jetting kit and the Keintech extended fuel screw with the following setup: JD blue needle, clip in 4th from top position 155 main jet pilot jet stock (22.5) with the Keintech extened fuel screw turned out about 2 1/4 turns. Other than the carb mod the engine is stock, the exhaust is stock and it's got about 1900km (less than 1200 miles). Last week (coolish 11-13C) the bike ran very well (as I said in the master 3x3 post, it woke the bike up). Great throttle response from idle to WOT. Last evening (a very unseasonable 23C) the bike started but died when I blipped the throttle. WHAT!!?? Restart and same thing. Restart and ease the throttle open slowly. It bogged just off idle and then ran fine. If I kept out of the near idle area it seemed like it did last week. Once it got back close to idle it bogged and stumbled. Not a good traffic response. (died on highway starting from light...paddle frantically to shoulder. Started right up and was able to take off with a more than usual (for me) handful of revs. (Ride home last night from coffee with the DS boys I did get to 125km on the highway without issues. Just the whole getting started fuss. Oh, and a constant, small throttle opening at low speed (just up off the idle), the bike bucked like it was stalling but the forward momentum kept it from stalling. Unnerving to say the least. Today I confirmed the fuel screw had not "wiggled" itself loose - it had not. I fiddled with it (according the the various instructions on this site and elsewhere) and couldn't get rid of the stumble. I did get it to where, if I was very deliberate, I could slowly increase the speed off idle and get over the "stumble bump" A test ride again had me stalling from a stop. A generous handful of revs and clutch slipping got me underway, but this isn't normal, So, what's changed? I don't honestly know. I did refuel before last week's satisfying ride, putting about 50km. (the tank was about 2/3 full and I topped it up) Chevron 94 (pump says no ethanol) is what I always put in, and what as in it previously. Before last week's ride the bike had sat, unridden since early March. (about a month). So carbahooter gurus... any ideas? Did my good gas go bad? My karma got twisted, blinker fluid leaked in? Tomorrow I'll drain the gas from the tank and the carb and start with fresh 94 while I await the forums wisdom.
  8. troyhaytroy

    DRZ400SM Keihin 39 FCR Jetting

    I have a 2007 DRZ400SM with a gasket and silicon sealed fmf exhaust, q4 muffler, and powerbomb header. It has a Keihin 39 FCR Racing Carb with all the conversion parts, 3x3 mod, and No Toil foam air filter. The bike has stock gearing and I am 155lbs. Everything else drivetrain related is stock, and it has 12,000 miles. I have the JD Jet Kit for this bike and carb. What is the best starting point for jetting setup with this configuration? Main, pilot, needle, air jets, etc. Also, the carb is extremely difficult attaching back to the stock air box. Is there an easier way than trying to pry it in? Thanks!
  9. Fred Covely

    Variation of 3X3 mod

    I looked at doing the 3X3 mod but am not comfortable having a large hole in that area as I am going through high water for sure. All things considered, I decided I ended up replacing the 3x3 mod with 2 1 3/8 round holes that I can stopper up with walmart rubber stoppers if need be. The open area of the 3x3 is 9 sq inches and my mod is 7 sq inches total. Even though you lose 2 sq inches, by carrying the factory snorkel and 2 rubber stoppers I can get a bit for a river crossing. Airbox with factory 2X1.5 hole and my added 1/38D holes. Aside from the loss from the 2 less sq inches, I think for sure my config is more turbulent, but after the JD jet mod, I'm real happy with the results. Any comments/thoughts?
  10. Hi, I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust. Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135. In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be? Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom? Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached) I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated. Thanks Timo
  11. I am stumped on what to do and looking for guidance. i have a 2018 Drz400sm. put it through the first service then went through with the 3x3 mod with JD jet and full FMF pipes. followed everything the jet kit said and tuned for sea level with blue needle in 3rd position 160 main and 25 pilot and fuel screw 2 1/2 turns out. Took the bike for a spin and it ran like crap. Idle is fine . But the bike just has no power anywhere and feels like a 50cc machine. Top speed was 95kmph on the road. So following this a took the carb apart and tried more jetting combos thinking it was just running lean. No success. Still slow with no response. I put the bike back to complete stock jets and exhaust and taped over the 3x3 hole to replicate the snorkel back in. And even then it ran the exact same no power and weak response. So currently the bike is sitting back at full fmf exhaust , blue needle in 4th position, 160 main 25 pilot and 2 1/2 turns out with 3x3 airbox standard air filter. All to which it runs slow like the throttle doesn't work but every now and then it surges in power for a second and dies away. i looked into the TPS ( throttle control sensor) and it is running the correct resistance of 5 at closed throttle and 3.9 open. What could be the problem? help would be much appreciated.
  12. howardrmz

    DRZ400SM

    I just bought 2015 DRZ400SM Came with Danmoto exhaust all ready jetted my question is if I do 3x3 mod do I still have to re-jet?
  13. I'm sure this has been beat to death, but I couldn't find a quick answer by doing a search... I have the Yoshimura RC2 full exhaust being delivered tomorrow. Question: The bike is brand new with only a few miles on it. Can I run the pipe on the stock jetting, a K&N installed and the snorkel removed from the airbox? Will it run okay? Will the plug burn properly? I do have the JD jetting kit and plan on doing the 3x3 cut out. Unfortunately I only have time to install the pipe before I leave for a trip. Thanks for the response.
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