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Found 51 results

  1. ThumperTalk

    Ducati 400 1997

    0 reviews

    MOTORCYCLE TYPE Sportbikes ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 398 Cylinders: 2 Engine Stroke: 4 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 329
  2. zDirtyDeedz

    E/S Model Outer Fork Dimensions

    As the title says. Everywhere I search only gets me the inner fork dimension of 49mm, but I need to know the dimension of the lower portion that the top inner fork compresses into. My best measurements get me 56.6mm. Image showing what I'm talking about. Anyone know?
  3. floydstar

    Timing Chain Links

    Rebuilding top end of my 2004 EXC 400. Now onto re-riveting the timing chain but having some problems. 1) it looks like I 'broke' the chain incorrectly? I've managed to remove this section: Opposed to this section (new replacement riveting link, (I bought 2 in case a damaged one)) I was hooing to just use the old pins and re-swedge them but the old pins will not fit in the links in the chain now (by hand). The pins will not push into these link holes.... I thought I must have distorted the ends enough when removing that they no longer fit but then I tried the new riveting link in these same holes and they don't fit either! Then I tried pushing (again by hand) the new riveting plate to on to the new riveting link pins (plate see resting on top if the pins below but that also doesn't fit.... So am guessing plates have to be pressed back on to the pins (old or new pins). Is this correct? Given the way I 'broke' the chain its going to be very tricky press the old pins through the chain, though the section I removed and in the plate. I'm using the motion pro chain riveting tool... Any advice/thoughts welcome. Far too many tiny bits to juggle and not drop in the motor! Have I buggered it by removing the section rather then riveting link supplied as replacement? Hope that all makes sense. Thanks in advance. Dan.
  4. Thanks for taking a look. I hope someone can point me in the right direction to get this headache solved. I'll try and be as detailed as I can without bombarding you all with a wall text.. My bike is a 2005 DRZ400S with over 20,000 miles on it (mostly highway but lately more dirt). I just recently brought the bike in (after a good 3 hour ride in the mountains) to a local motorcycle service shop (Cycletune in Portland, OR). They did a list of maintenance work as well as replaced the tires, relocated my ignition switch, removed side stand switch, etc. I took the bike back home and it died after about 15 minutes on the highway. Now, my bike is experiencing intermittent loss of power, backfiring, stalling, etc. The mechanics working on my bike threw up their hands and told me they tried and couldn't figure it out. They said they did not believe that they caused the problem and did not know what was causing it. They said that they could "start throwing parts at it" and charge me hourly to try and figure it out... Before my bike died on the highway and was towed back to the shop, I got their "level 3 service" (highest service package available). This service included: Oil and filter change, Battery check, Wheel & tire inspection, Cooling system check,Inspect/clean air filter,Lube/adjust all cables and pivot points,Clean and adjust chain/belt,Inspect brake system,Check electrical system,Inspect clutch components (external),Fastener check,Set tire pressure,Safety check,Spark plug replacement,Carburetor/throttle body synchronization,Inspect/change transmission fluid/driveshaft fluid,Inspect steering head & wheel bearings,Cooling system check & flush if needed,Brake and Clutch,fluid flush. After they took my bike back in and couldn't fix the intermittent problem, they gave me a handwritten letter saying the following: "Level 3 service was perfored. All fluids changed. Valves checked (within specs) side stand switch eliminated. Bike had intermittent stalling problem and was towed back to shop. Problem was eventually replicated on test ride. Intermittent cutting out, loss of power. Eventual stalling was experienced. Fuel petcock was checked at the time of stalling - appeared okay. Correct level of fuel was found in float bowl at time of stalling. Pick up coil was replaced. New pick up coil did not solve problem. Intermittent problem still exists." Here's a sound clip of the problem (it starts around 0:14). Bike was warmed up for about 10 minutes before the audio was recorded. The bike idles just fine. Any ideas on what is causing this? I'm somewhat mechanically capable so I'm going to try and fix it myself (partly because I lost faith in the shop I went to for a variety of reasons and don't trust that they will fix it and partly because other local shops have a wait time of 4+ weeks to get my bike in). Thank you!
  5. Hi guys! I own a DRZ400s and have a question about taking a different approach to the standard leaky petcock Fix. So, I just ordered the fix a lot of people recommended on here for the leaky stock petcock: The Petcock off of a Yamaha Raptor. I did this after looking for other vacuum petcocks and not finding good alternatives. However, I found a part made by Pingel, and was wondering if it would work in conjunction with the Yamaha Raptor petcock, in order to give me the perks of the Suzuki Vacuum Petcock, without it's shoddy craftsmanship and limited life. Could one of you guys help me out, and tell me if this would work? Do I just place the Pingel Inline Vacuum Valve on the fuel line between the Raptor Petcock and the Carb? Or does the Pingel Valve work as a petcock all on it's own? Thanks guys. Besides hitting the dirt often, I am trying to use my DRZ to zip around Los Angeles and make deliveries with postmates/grubhub/etc, so I would not like have to shut off the manual petcock every time I hop on/off the bike. Thanks again guys!
  6. My DRZ has been very slowly becoming harder and harder to shift into neutral. Sometimes it just won't. I shift all the way down to first, and try to half upshift into neutral, and it's like i'm pulling my foot up on a solid object. I just cannot get it to upshift no matter what. When i'm rolling it seems to shift easy, but stopped is a NO GO. I just did a fresh oil change today. (Somebody said an oil change fixed his no-go neutral bike). Can somebody please help me out here? Give me some ideas maybe from 'Probable the issue' to 'could possibly be'. And i'll go down the list and try to get this solved. Thanks in advance peeps.
  7. ajwillson

    What big bore is this??

    Just picked up a used 2005 DRZ400sm last week. Previous owner said it was a big bore. Anybody know what make it is? Also, the bike has a full FMF exhaust that backfires a lot when rolling off, just wondering if there is an easy way to tell if the carb was re-jetted before I buy a jet kit.
  8. White_Buffalo7.3

    2005 z400 Head on a 2013 z400

    Hey guys, just asking if I can put a earlier z400 head on a later z400. My friend has a 2013 that needs a head but he wants only 600 for it.......
  9. Illuminated onyx

    1980 kdx 400 HELP!!?

    So ive recently had my main clutch basket nut and the crankshaft nut come loose and I've finally fixed that. Now ive noticed a slight ticking noise kinda like a piston slap it sounds like it's coming from the top end and when i took the head off theres a part of the head that is clean metal and no carbon so I assume its that, I couldn't feel alot of play in the bottom end bearings but I didn't take the cylinder off, i just pushed down on the piston, new head gasket is on its way. Should i run it how it is and what would i have to replace to get rid of the noise or should i sell it? I don't have a ton of money to dump into rebuilding this thing as im only 16. Thanks for the help!!
  10. I rode around a bit reving it out then made a final hard pass before i removed it.
  11. Illuminated onyx

    Custom expansion chamber kdx 400

    Does anyone know a company that has decent prices for custom expansion chambers? My kdx 400 expansion chamber is cracking and I’d like to get a new stock one made same as the oem just fresh metal. Any suggestions would help alot!!
  12. Auguste88

    DRZ 400 Rally

    Hi everyone, I am curently building my bike for light adventure riding. I am making a contraption that I would like to call a rally fairing. I am showing you what I have made so far. For the build; - oversize GPI racing radiators - oversize gaz tank - fuel pump - swapping the speedometer by a vapor - custom made bracket for fairing - fiberglass fairing/windsheild I have not adressed the wide ratio issue since I just completely rebuild the engine last winter. I got a 39 teeth sproket for highway speed. I have no experience whatsoever with fiberglass, any input would be apreciated. Thanks for the interest.
  13. Most of my videos are on my Honda, but I made this one on the DRZ. A pleasant rural ride in southwest Missouri. I also have a video on my mods and on some off road roading. My youtube channel name is Oklahoma Hank.
  14. Matthew McAfee

    Drz 400e mcct

    I think this is in the right place. I have a klx 300 manual cam chain tensioner. I was curious if it would work on my 2000 drz400e
  15. ThumperTalk

    Maico 400 1983

    0 reviews

    MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 398 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 256
  16. ThumperTalk

    Maico 400 1981

    1 review

    MOTORCYCLE TYPE Moto Cross ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 398 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 256
  17. Illuminated onyx

    So i bought a 1980 kdx400...

    I have recently bought a kdx400. Its not the prettiest thing but it runs(with rough edges) recently its been running odd. When you kick it over it'll start with a slightly high sounding idle but its not screaming but then after riding for a bit it starts reving high enough to putt around in 3rd gear without touching the throttle. The cable and throttle tube are pretty sketchy but its not getting hung to my knowledge ive adjusted the idle down to barely nothing on both the throttle tube and the cable end of the carb. I backed the throttle stop all the way out while it was idling high and it did nothing. A few days prior to this it would start up and scream but i chuck that up to one of the idle nuts backing out and bringing the idle up. I do notice its leaking oil from a corner of the head gasket but I don't think that it would cause it to idle high like this. I can add pictures if they would help. Any help is appreciated!!!!
  18. I'll try and give the timeline as best I can. Got a good deal months back on a bike that had cold start issues, well starting issue in general but it got better while warm. Had some issue idling but it ran really strong when you got it up to speed. Tried cleaning the stock carb multiple times (ultrasonic cleaned twice, once by me, once by a shop) and it didn't really solve much. Checked valves and they're in spec, which it should have been for having 9k miles. Don't get me wrong, bike ran well but wasn't reliable enough while starting that I didn't trust riding outside of my local area. Bit the bullet and bought an FCR MX39 which was my plan anyways, and that solved quite a bit of the issues, but brought up more. Start is better but it still takes a while, especially when cold. Idle is steady but will drop and die if too low. I occasionally get this loud pop while trying to start, like gun shot pop. I also now have this hanging idle issue when decelerating or coming to a stop. I can fix it by blipping the throttle which then makes the idles drop. If my idle is set too low, it will drop too low and stall. From my research I think it's a vacuum issue, which is weird cause the tubes are all there and the petcock vacuum is plugged. Took the throttle cables off to see if they were sticking and causing the issue but the video proves that's not true. I also checked for any air leaks near the boots, not it. Pulled the carb last night and only checked the slide but noticed this wearing on the top right corner and this super odd bubbling on the pressure plate. For the start issues I've heard bad CDI, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any suggestions or help they could provide? I promise a beer on me if I'm ever in your area! Video 1: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHRVNfbGhCcUxmWXc Video 2: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHaFVrRnlXcVpQSFE
  19. mightyerick

    01 400 EXC wont start

    I have a 2001 KTM 400 EXC that I bought leaking fuel from the float bowl gasket. The bike has been sitting for a bit over a month. I replaced the float bowl gasket and while I had the carb apart cleaned out the entire thing with carb cleaner, sprayed compressed air through every jet and pushed a thin piece of wire through so Im 100% sure there are no blockages. After reassembling the bike it would turn over but bog down and die if I snapped and held the throttle. Went back in and adjusted the float bowl tang to factory settings because I forgot to, and now the bike wont turn over. The only things I can think of are: bad gas, or I need a new spark plug. Pulled the spark plug and it was completely dry. And thats where Im stuck. This is the first bike Ive ever worked on so I dont know what else to try, any insight is appreciated. Thanks
  20. cxnnxrx

    Water Pump Rebuild Question

    So I got it all apart and got stuck here: Are these bearings supposed to come out easily? They sure aren't. I had to tap the impeller shaft our with a mallet, but these guys wont budge. Is there a secret? Should I scrap it just buy the whole part? lol Any feedback appreciated
  21. dirtrider192

    DR-Z 400S Led Headlight

    First off Just want to say I am new to the forum and this is my first write up, so we will see how this goes. After owning my DRZ for a short while I found that the stock headlight was lacking, and decided to do something about it. There are plenty of companies out there that sell led lights like baja designs, or trail tech, but they are quite expensive. Another alternative was to buy just a hid, or led bulb to replace the stock one, but I wanted to try do something different so I decided to make my own set up. Started out by removing the stock headlight and mounts, then taking piece of 2" schedule 40 pipe cutting it in half and building off of that. Once I had the pieces of pipe secured to the forks with hose clamps, I used 1/2 steel rod and bent it around an old bearing race to create the hoop that would houses the lights. After that used some more 1/2 rod to fix it in relation to the forks. Once I had everything tacked where i wanted it, removed from the bike and fully welded it. After finishing that up, put it back on the bike the next day, to add a spot for the lights to mount, made it out of cardboard first to check the fit then cut the metal out. Then tacked it, removed it, and welded it up. Test fitted the lights and drilled the holes for them. Got the lights off of amazon, the two cube lights are 20 watts each in a spot beam configuration, and the bar on the bottom is a 30 watt flood beam. The cubes were $50 for both and they seem like good quality, and the bar was $30. They will definitely be an improvement the over stock light. Had to make a harness to connect all of them, and I wanted to have it so that when the high beam was turned on the low beam remained on as well. Ended up using a diode to prevent backfeeding of the high beam circuit while the low beam was on. After making sure the lights all worked like I wanted them to, took the mount to work sandblasted it and put some paint and primer on it. And began to work on the front cover. Decided to make it out of fiberglass, then cut out holes for the lights. Cut out a piece of cardboard first to see what id need before I cut out the fiberglass. After cutting out the circular part, mounted it up with the lights in and traced them to get an outline of where I would need to cut (I forgot to get pictures of this but feel its pretty straight through). Threw some paint on the fiberglass cover, and mounted it all up on the bike. Been raining like crazy lately and haven't had the chance to get some decent pictures of how bright it is, to go with the before pictures with the stock headlights. Im sure it will have some improvements yet to come like making a cover over the back of the lights but for now pretty satisfied with how bright it is, and how it looks.
  22. Saraha

    front brake locked

    So. Just bought a 2000 drz 400. First trip out after a long downhill dirt road with lots of front brake the front wheel locked tipping me off. Picked bike up and the front brake leaver was floppy. After a while (yes I rode very carefully) the front brake came back. any ideas? The bike was transported in a van almost on its side and I've dropped it a few times getting up and down our very rough track. Any ideas?
  23. So I finally got around to replacing the horrendous Suzuki footpegs. Went with some Moose Racing "Onyx" 1/2" back offset pegs. What should have been a 2-3 minute video turned about 5.5 minutes due to an issue with the right side that required some creative grinding to remedy. It was a strange thing for me. I love the feel, I love the toe-room, but having to grind on a brand new $90 part kinda pissed me off. I spent my own money on these (video not sponsored by Moose in any way) so I think I gave them a fair shake in the video.
  24. Hello all! My name is Miles and I need some help gauging what to expect for condition/"reliability" you could say, of my DRZ400E for cross country travel! I am looking into traveling the Trans America Trail. I'm from Rhode Island and found an alternate rout where I can start on the West border of Connecticut. Ending in Colorado, to Nevada, then California; and cruising something along the lines of RT66 back. [just for reference, don't mean to ramble] The Machine: 2003 DRZ400-E ~6k miles total - 5k lightly ridden, never seen dirt - 0.8k %100 hard off road [past year] Frequent Oil changes, Air Filter changes {I ride with the guy I purchased it from nearly daily. He was good about maintenance on the regular, but also pushe the bike in the woods just as much!} Front and Rear Suspension rebuilt, carburetor rebuilt all last year Stock everything except FMF power bomb header and exhaust muffler, and Vapor Trail Tech, lights + fork socks Expected Maintenance: Top End Rebuild, Timing, Valves adjusted [Have not done compression test, but i would expect new top to be necessary] obvious things such as Brake Pads, Fluids, Chain/Sprockets, Tries, Heavy Tubes From this information, And Any You Can Think Of To Ask, does this DRZ have potential for the Trans America Trail; a ~6'000 dirt, then ~4,000 road return trip?! Or would I be better off selling it for a newer model? Thanks! -Miles
  25. Ermaganish

    Buying a DRZ 400sm

    Hello there, In about a week, I'm gonna buy myself a DRZ 400 SM 2005 model with about 10 000 miles (16 000 km ) on it, and i was woundering if any one could help me with pointers i could have when i check the bike, like common faults or similar stuff to look out for when test riding etc etc. It's gonna be my first bike, so all tips are appriciated!
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