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Showing results for tags '400s'.
Found 6 results
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So I picked up a 2016 DR-Z 400S last week. Only 4200 miles, and in good shape. My first DRZ and first dual sport, actually. I ride an R1250GS most of the time but I will ride the DRZ with my son on Saturdays, 90%+ in the dirt. The only visible mod is an FMF Powercore 4 muffler. The ladies I bought it from had only owned it a year and it had FMF on it when they bought it. They had no clue whether it had been re-jetted. First question: am I right that the white nob shown in the picture is an aftermarket fuel/air screw? If so, that's a pretty sure indicator somebody had the carb off and re-jetted it, right? Before you answer that and presume whoever did it knew what they were doing, check out the holes drilled in the air box and in the air box cover! I'm guessing that was somebody's attempt at a 3x3 mod! The oval on the top of the airbox is untouched. How concerned should I be about the hole in the air-box cover?! I'm thinking I need to find a plug that size!! One other question: the bike starts right up with the choke off, but not with it on. Doesn't want to take much throttle until warm. Any diagnoses? Thanks in advance! The Jed
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I have a 2000 drz400s that i just put a 440 kit in with stage 2 hotcams, it has an open air box and a pro circuit exhaust. what size jets should i put in it since i just put the cams and big bore in it?
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I recently bought a DRZ 400, and suddenly it started making a metallic clinking noise that I hear when letting the Throttle go to its original position. I do not know from where this is coming. The fist I did today was open the top head and check the valves clearances and all are cero (0). This concerns me a lot since I do not know almost anything of motorcycle mechanics. I know that I have to change the shims for ones that are thinner. What could be causing this problem? Can it cause any damage to the motor? Also another concerning thing that I found is that the valves are looking against each other instead of away each other like supposed for an S model. (With the motor aligned correctly) The previous owner told me that this bike even if it was “marked” as an S it look and uses parts like an E model. Could this have something to do? (Don’t this so but just asking) I would definitely appreciate any help, any idea of what this may cause or be caused by. Also, could this valves be badly mounted previously? -
First off, thank you everyone for your input to this site, it took an issue for me to make an account but I have been getting info off of this site for well over a year. So I have an ongoing issue on my '01 DRZ400S. The bike on two occasions now will run fine, then after 10-40 miles start acting as if low on fuel, backfires several times and finally dies. It will take a few minutes, but then will start fine and once again dies after a mile or so. After the first time, I took off the tank, petcock, carb and lines, cleaned them out with no obvious issues found. I took it out for a 27 mile ride with no issues. Then took the second trip where it died after about 40 miles. This bike has had the CA emissions removed, free power mod completed, and I had put in a new stator before this issue came up with loctite fixes. Otherwise the bike is stock. After the second time it died, I have checked the spark plug, cap, ignition coil resistance, stator resistance, pickup coil resistance and signal coil resistance. Everything is within specs. I have been told it may be the CDI, but then saw here its not an issue on this bike. Just need some input as to where to go from here. I don't want to start throwing money at it if I don't have to.
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Just out of curiosity does anyone on here have a 15 drz400s and think to themselves.. wow this color scheme is extremely hideous. Ive been wanting to get a plastic kit however the fact that the tank has the sticker underneath the clear coat has steered me away. Been wondering if a black acerbis kit would look good with the stock emblem still on the gas tank. Any thoughts?
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Hi guys! I own a DRZ400s and have a question about taking a different approach to the standard leaky petcock Fix. So, I just ordered the fix a lot of people recommended on here for the leaky stock petcock: The Petcock off of a Yamaha Raptor. I did this after looking for other vacuum petcocks and not finding good alternatives. However, I found a part made by Pingel, and was wondering if it would work in conjunction with the Yamaha Raptor petcock, in order to give me the perks of the Suzuki Vacuum Petcock, without it's shoddy craftsmanship and limited life. Could one of you guys help me out, and tell me if this would work? Do I just place the Pingel Inline Vacuum Valve on the fuel line between the Raptor Petcock and the Carb? Or does the Pingel Valve work as a petcock all on it's own? Thanks guys. Besides hitting the dirt often, I am trying to use my DRZ to zip around Los Angeles and make deliveries with postmates/grubhub/etc, so I would not like have to shut off the manual petcock every time I hop on/off the bike. Thanks again guys!
