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Found 16 results

  1. Has anyone ever had any issues with what I can only describe as a spud type pin that is in the center of the gear selector on a 2005 RMZ 250 4 stroke Suzuki - The spud like pin (I’m sure someone will give me the correct name for this) has cracked and is wobbly when shifting gear - my question is would this be safe to just weld to hold it in place or would it require new casings to be installed - See photos below that show exactly what i mean, I just wouldn't be the best at explaining it to well, Any help appreciated 👍🏻
  2. My engine has developed a whirring gear whine sound that is progressively getting louder. It's a 2019 RR390 Standard (w/Racing graphics) with 6000kms, 145hrs, on mostly country roads and some single track. Oil changes, engine and gearbox every 1000kms. Steel oil pump gears and high flow water pump impeller installed at 5000kms, 110hrs. Have any of you heard a sound like this before and have an idea what it might be? The sound is most apparent beginning about 7 seconds into the video that I just posted on the "Beta Motorcycle Group" Facebook group. (I've not yet learned how I can link you to the FB page or post the video.)
  3. My son has outgrown his ttr125 and now wants a 2 stroke bike. I think he should stick with the 4 steoke and am leaning towards the yz250f or kx250. I am concerned with the maintenance of the 2 stroke. I believe they have resolved the powerband issue with 2 strokes so they ride more like a 4 stroke. I am just looking for some pros/cons of the 2 stroke Thanks for any input.
  4. So i have a KX250f 2005 4 stroke. Its very hard to start when cold and it does not idle without choke. It slighlty pops when idling with choke. Ill try to start it cold and it wont. ill turn the choke on and start it and it will start but with very high rpm and the rpm will rise. ( i got scared and turn the bike off ). From here when the bike is kinda warm i try to start it without the choke it kinda catches for literary one second then dies. I cleaned the jets and im not sure whats wrong with the bike. Im kinda new to dirt bikes and any help would be useful
  5. Hi all, Looking at purchasing a circa 2017 - 2019 beta!! I'm stuck between beta's 300 RR (2 stroke) and 350 RR (4 stroke) . The main concern is fuel range - if it's negelable then I am leaning towards the 300 RR but if its night and say then I might be torn to get the thumper. Does anyone have any experience with both?? Looking at finding out the kinda fuel range the standard tank can do!
  6. I have a 4 stroke 250 fuel injected bike i was sitting with clutch in idealing for 5 minutes it i believe i pulled the clutch out and it stalled , kicked it over it fired up twice for about 3 seconds each and now wont start . Feels like it has no compression with leg but it is challange to kick over by hand any ideas Update pulled the plug to check for spark needs replacing cleaned it for now through it back together kicked over for 5 seconds then died and wont start again
  7. I bought a kx250f a couple months ago that ran poorly. I took the engine apart and bought a new piston, valves, cam chain, carb rebuild kit and a lot of other stuff to it. Once I put it back together it still ran bad. I put a new accelerator pump on it and a pickup coil. Finally ran good. I road it and the bike bogged out at a quarter throttle so I messed with the clip position and it didn’t help. Put a bigger pilot jet in it and it ran good. Still bogged out once I road it. Messed with the accelerator squirter and it was set right. Finally adjusted the float position because it was running to lean. Works great now with the choke but as soon as I put it in it pops and backfires(no flames) so I checked the pilot jet and it’s clean. Was wondering what I should adjust so it runs good with the choke in.
  8. Hi yall I've got a technical question about the ignition boxes for period Suzuki DR400s. I recently purchased a non running 1980 model for 200$, the bike was complete but honestly it was pretty rough. The previous owner had hooked up a car coil and grafted on a 99 RM250 ignition box. He claimed it ran like that too. I couldn't get it to fire as it was (CDI looked all corroded), so I ordered a stock coil and was looking for a stock '80 CDI.. apparently theyre kinda rare / pricy. I was wondering what my other options could be. I'm not sure if there are aftermarket units that will work? maybe a cdi from a similar bore 4 stroke? The wiring isn't too complicated as its a base offroad model. Any help is appreciated!
  9. I just purchased a 1998 WR400F that he says has a 426 kit in it. Got a really good deal on the bike since he said it needs the valves adjusted. This is my first Yamaha and first 4 stroke bike so I have a couple questions. The seller said that when you are lugging it through the woods trail riding the bike will act like it is flooding out once it gets hot. Let it cool and your off again. He said if you ride it down the road its fine because it stays cool. Does this sound like valve adjustments? Hopefully some one can steer me in the right direction. Thank you
  10. Wiseco's new Garage Buddy engine rebuild kits offer everything you need for a bottom and top end rebuild. From the crank to the piston kit, and even an hour meter to track maintenance, everything is included in one box. Here we take a look at the components included, and the technology behind them. So, the time has come for an engine rebuild. Hopefully it’s being done as a practice of proper maintenance, but for many it will be because of an engine failure. Whether the bottom end, top end, or both went out, the first step is to disassemble and inspect. After determining any damage done to engine cases or the cylinder, and arranging for those to be repaired/replaced, you’re faced with choosing what internal engine components to buy, where to get them, and how much the costs are going to add up. A full engine rebuild is a serious job and requires a lot of parts to be replaced, especially in four-strokes. You have to think of bottom end bearings and seals, a crankshaft assembly, piston, rings, clips, wristpin, and the plethora of gaskets required for reassembly. If you’re doing this rebuild yourself, or having your local shop do the labor, chances are you don’t have a factory team budget to spend on parts. However, you know you want high-quality and durable parts, because you don’t want to find yourself doing this again anytime soon. Rebuilding a dirt bike engine is an involved job, requiring many parts to be replaced. Missing one seal or gasket can put the whole rebuild on hold. You could source all the different parts you need from different vendors to find the best combination of quality and affordability. But, it can get frustrating when 6 different packages are coming from 6 different vendors at different times, and each one relies on the next for you to complete your rebuild. Wiseco is one of the manufacturers that has been offering top end kits (including piston, rings, clips, gaskets, and seals) all in one box, under one part number for many years. Complete bottom end rebuild kits are also available from Wiseco, with all necessary parts under one part number. So, it seemed like a no brainer to combine the top and bottom end kits, and throw in a couple extra goodies to make your complete engine rebuild in your garage as hassle free as possible. Top-end piston kits and bottom-end kits come together to create Wiseco Garage Buddy rebuild kits. Wiseco Garage Buddy kits are exactly as the name implies, the buddy you want to have in your garage that has everything ready to go for your engine rebuild. Garage Buddy engine rebuild kits come with all parts needed to rebuild the bottom and top end, plus an hour meter—with a Garage Buddy specific decal—to track critical maintenance intervals and identify your rebuild as a Garage Buddy rebuild. The kits include: Crankshaft assembly OEM quality main bearings All engine gaskets, seals, and O-rings Wiseco standard series forged piston kit (piston, ring(s), pin, clips) Small end bearing (for two-strokes) Cam chain (for four-strokes) Hour meter with mounting bracket and hour meter decal Open up a Garage Buddy kit, and you'll find all the components you need to rebuild your bottom and top end. 2-stroke and 4-stroke Whether your machine of choice is a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke, Wiseco can help you with your rebuild. 2-stroke Wiseco Garage Buddy kits include everything listed above, featuring a Wiseco forged Pro-Lite piston kit. You don’t even have to worry about sourcing a small-end bearing, that’s included too. 2-stroke fans often brag about the ability to rebuild their bikes so much cheaper than their 4-stroke counterparts, and they’ll have even more ammo for bragging now with these kits starting in the $400 range. A Wiseco 2-stroke Garage Buddy kit includes all the parts you'll need for piston and crankshaft replacement, plus an hour meter to track your next maintenance intervals. However, don’t abandon your 4-stroke yet. Many riders cringe—and rightfully so—at the thought of rebuilding their 4-stroke because of the costs associated, but Wiseco 4-stroke Garage Buddy kits starting in the $600s takes a lot of sting off your rebuild project. They even include a new timing chain. No matter what you’re rebuilding, you’ll be able to track key maintenance intervals for your fresh engine with the Wiseco hour meter and log book that’s included in the Garage Buddy kits. All Garage Buddy kits include a specific hour meter decal as well, which is important for the limited warranty to identify the rebuild as a Garage Buddy rebuild. A Wiseco 4-stroke Garage Buddy kit includes all the parts you'll need for piston and crankshaft replacement, including a cam chain and an hour meter. Ease of ordering Wiseco Garage Buddy kits come with the listed parts boxed up in one box, and listed under one part number, which makes it nice to not have to worry about if you might’ve missed something when ordering. Simply find the single part number for your model, order, and you’re on your way to brand new performance. Quality Performance, backed by a Limited Warranty Ordering convenience doesn’t make a difference if the parts do not provide quality and reliability. Wiseco crankshafts are designed completely by in-house engineers, who determine all assembled dimensions, clearances, materials, and specifications. These specifications have been determined from R&D tests such as hand inspection, dyno, and failure analysis. Once Wiseco cranks have been manufactured to exact specifications they are batch inspected, and critical tolerances and dimensions are measured. Major inspections and tests include crank run-out and trueness, because they must operate within a strict tolerance to last long and perform well. Wiseco crankshafts and bearings are manufactured and tested according to strict tolerances and clearances, including run-out and trueness. Crankshaft designs are also tested for 4 hours at WOT. Bearings are another critical point of inspection. Wiseco has worked to build relationships with top-tier bearing suppliers to provide a long lasting, low-friction product. Debris in a bearing can lead to very fast wear, and Wiseco makes it a point to inspect batches of bearings for cleanliness and proper operation. As part of the design and engineering process, prototype crankshafts are hand inspected and dyno-tested at wide open throttle for 4 consecutive hours. This is a benchmark test, and new crankshaft designs must pass it before to be deemed worthy for manufacturing. Watch our crank R&D and inspection process. A Warranty on Engine Internals? Yes! Wiseco is committed to providing performance and reliability in all their products. This is why Garage Buddy kits come with a limited warranty. Rebuild your engine with a Garage Buddy kit, and your new Wiseco components are covered against manufacturer defects for 90 days from the date of purchase, or 10 hours logged on the hour meter, whichever comes first. Check out all the warranty details on the detail sheet in your new Garage Buddy kit. Open up your Garage Buddy kit and you'll find a detail sheet on the warranty on your new components. Forged Pistons The top end kits included in Garage Buddy kits feature a Wiseco forged piston, which are designed, forged, and machined completely in-house in the U.S.A. Four-stroke Garage Buddy kits come with a Wiseco standard forged piston, which offers stock compression and more reliability and longevity, thanks to the benefits of the forging process. Two-stroke Garage Buddy kits include a Wiseco Pro-Lite forged piston, which is the two-stroke piston that has been providing two-stroke riders quality and reliability for decades. Some applications, two and four-stroke, even feature ArmorGlide skirt coating, reducing friction and wear for the life of the piston. Forged aluminum has an undeniable advantage in strength over cast pistons, thanks to the high tensile strength qualities of aluminum with aligned grain flow. Read more about our forging process here, and get all the details on our coatings here. All Wiseco pistons are forged in-house from aluminum. Some pistons may also come with ArmorGlide skirt coating, and some 2-stroke pistons may already have exhaust bridge lubrication holes pre-drilled. All pistons are machined on state-of-the-art CNC machine equipment, then hand finished and inspected for quality. The forged pistons come complete with wrist pin, clips, and high-performance ring(s). Lastly, all gaskets and seals are made by OEM quality manufactures. Sealing components are not something to ever go cheap on, because no matter how high-quality your moving components are, if your engine is not sealing properly, it’s coming back apart. Need some tips on breaking in your fresh engine? Check this out. Gaskets and seals provided in Wiseco Garage Buddy kits are OEM quality, ensuring your freshly rebuilt engine is properly sealed.
  11. Hello all, have clear or natural tank on my 4 stroke. Running pump gas that is as clear as tank, having issues seeing fuel level, especially when dirty and in race mode. Any ideas on a dye to darken fuel and hold octane level. Other than water based food coloring which was my first thought??
  12. Guys I need help, I just bought a crf250r and the main jet castings peice broke and messed up the carb. I don’t know what to do, but a new carb or attempt to rivet on a new casting to replace the assembly. Links and advice appreciated feel free to email me or respond. I bought the bike for $1,100 knowing that was wrong, engine was freshly rebuilt and has amazing compression. Carb brand is keihin.
  13. Hi I was wondering how good a 125 2 stroke would be for long distances. For example would it be a good bike for dirt roads and old rail road tracks? Also how long would a tank of gas last of fairly easy riding but still getting on it every once and a while? I have a yz250f and its a good bike but I love the simple design of a 2 stroke and am tired of dealing with the valves on 4 strokes. Anyways let me know what you think and thanks for reading.
  14. Hello all, I have a 2009 Kawasaki KX250F. When the revs get into higher RPM's, sometimes a little bit of white smoke blows out the exhaust. It seems to only happen when its reving high or when I start it on a cold day for the first time. Is it normal? Or do I need a rebuild? It is only a little bit, not a ton of smoke. Thanks so much!
  15. Needing advice. my son is 9Yo just started racing in his 85 sw class on a 2012 YZ85. looking at buying him a new YZ85 2021 or a Honda CRF150 RB. his age group class allow him either 85 2 stroke up to 150 4 stroke. Can’t decide which way to go. At this stage leave him on the 2 stroke like everyone else or step up to the 4 stroke. Both bike are race ready from the factory. Both small wheel. some advice as to why and why not would help shed some light. cheers.
  16. Ive grown up on a 70cc 4 stroke and an xr100 and im looking into getting my next bike. Im thinking about the rm125. Would it be the right choice for me? thanks.
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