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Found 36 results

  1. I have a 06 polaris predator 500 and just got the engine rebuilt. When I got it back it runs perfect, the only problem I have is when I try to shit it gets stuck and won't lock into neutral. It's currently stuck in second. Any Idea of what it might be or how I go about fixing it?
  2. Hey guy’s, new to the forum here. I had a 2019 Yamaha MT-09, traded for a 2019 KTM 500 exc to get into the enduro/supermoto world. I’m very happy with the bike, but more is always better! I punched out the exhaust end cap, and went with a piggyback fuel tuner to address the lean fuel issues. I saw that some guys with older 530’s were cutting the internal pipe off the end-cap, spark arrestor I’m assuming? I’m not worried about forestry legal mumbo jumbo, mostly ridden in supermoto form on the street with the occasional trail riding on private land. Has anyone else done this? Does it make it more like the 450sx end cap by doing so? Or was that just a thing for the older ktm models? Also, does anyone have the recommended tuner settings from JD? A picture of the programming paper for 2019 ktm 500 would be a huge help! Thanks guys
  3. Hello everyone! 👍 I would like some help regarding which Supermoto-style front fenders fits a 2017 KTM 500 EXC-F Six Days. There's 2 screw holes in the back off my current off-road fender that mounts in the back of the lower clamp. A friend suggested a 690 SMC-R or Husky FS300-570 but I'm not sure since I've only seen pictures. (OEM partnumber: 7730821000028)
  4. 0 comments

    Last falls project. What a project... Looks and runs good now!
  5. 0 comments

    Great sled never had a problem with it. these Polaris Indy are bullet proof.
  6. Ok so i know there aren't many snowmobile guys on here but its more so an motor based problem, and their are lots of motor experts on this. So i have a 1998 polaris 488 indy super sport. Its a 2 cylinder 2 stroke motor(air cooled), no power valve system and about as basic as it gets. I got the sled not-running for free and the compression was too low to start, i wanted to keep it cheap so i put new rings in it and now the compression is back to where it should be. After the rebuild it fired right up and the first time i took it through the yard it barely had enough power to make it around. I ended up thinning out the gas mixture with the needle and clip in both carburetors, and it decided to run very well. I took it up and down the yard a few times and it ran perfectly. I had it running perfect for about 45 minutes and then i parked it. i came back a week later, i was about 10 minutes into my ride when it started bogging and running like crap again. Its hard to describe how it runs but i will attach a video to demonstrate. It is very boggy at low rpm, very little throttle response. But if you let the rpms rise and get to powerband, it sounds like it should and has good throttle response. keep in mind this is in a neutral position. it will not idle without me applying little pressure to the throttle and even then it runs boggy. When you try and drive the sled here is what happens, first it bogs down until you hit medium rpm range, then it hit power band and speeds up for about 5 seconds, then if you keep holding the throttle it bogs down until it will eventually kill. It reaches close to max rpm and powerband is decent. If you don't get it started right away it eventually floods itself, it will also not run or start with the choke on. I've ridden many of these sleds with the identical motor so i have an idea of how they are supposed to run. I'm just looking for a head start of what might be wrong so i don't throw unnecessary parts on it. here are the things i have done with it since then: Cleaned the carbs, adjusted fuel/air screw, cleaned fuel pump, new rings/seals/oil lines and filters/ spark plugs are brand new and gapped Here is what i suspect is wrong: To much gas is getting to it, reason being is i can see gas actually shoot backwards out of the carbs sometimes, wont start with choke Let me know if you need more info or you have an idea, Thank you I can’t put the video on this apparently but if you want it I can dm it*
  7. Looking for help. My 89' CR250R suspension isn't tight enough. No luck finding a manual been riding it for a year now and bottoming out the rear when racing. I hope someone could advise how I could do an adjustment.
  8. Jonbo75

    Polaris 500 (1998)


    First Snowmobile i've own, good thing to learn on and get started
  9. I have a 1999 kx 250. I got a brand new tire and my chain is rubbing on it. The chain is good and tight and when I slide it over it can barely touch the tire but it still does. My chain slide is looks very worn. Would a new chain slide keep it from hitting the tire? The ridge left on the slide is not even taller than half your finger
  10. Can anybody help me figure out if the 2013 - 2016 models of the KTM 500 exc are the same machine? As far as engine/ecu/emissions. I own a 2013 and love the power plant. The ECU has been remapped and smog removed. I am looking to add another bike to the stable and have heard nothing but $$$ and head aches in order to get the newer models to run as well as the old ones. Looking into buying a clean 2015 with low hours/miles. My bike rips and my fear is getting something that I can't have simply remapped - and being forced to spend 700 on a ECU. What do you guys now?
  11. KTM 500 Aftermarket ECU/Tuner Review. Mike Spurgin at Tacomoto.co hooked me up and sent me both a Vortex and Athena GET ECU to test on my 19 KTM 500EXC. I already had a JD tuner on the bike so I was excited to try out the full replacement ECU's and see how they compare to the JD. On the 17 and up KTM's the factory ECU's are locked and cannot be re-mapped, this leaves you looking at aftermarket options to get your bike running correctly and realizing it's potential. I Wanted to share my thoughts on the different tuners with others who may be looking to pick up a ECU or Tuner themselves. One box of badassness that just arrived from Mike. My bike is set up with the following: *2019 KTM 500EXC *Fully De-smogged with reed valves removed. *FMF 4.1 Canister *14-52 Gearing *MT-21 front tire and MT-43 rear with Tubliss in each. I will preface this with the statement that I'm tuning by riding the bike (Seat of the pants) and I'm not monitoring the AF ratio. I'm not a professional rider or engine tuner but do have a LOT of time on bikes over the years. These are my thoughts and my results on how the tuners felt on my bike. I'm hoping to be able to get the 3 units on a Dyno to compare as well. First up the JD Tuner: The JD tuner is a piggy back tuner that modifies the signal coming from the stock ECU going to the injector to either add or remove fuel as needed. It's worthy of note that the JD tuner modifies the fuel signal only and can not modify the ignition timing as well like the GET and Vortex tuners, this presents some built in limitations as the JD will never be able to fully correct the side effects from the factory set ECU programming. The tuner allows you to change your fueling (manually) in real time to accommodate for riding conditions such as altitude, temperature or equipment changes to the bike. It can take some time to get used to the controls of the tuner but depending on where you mount the unit changes are performed quickly. Install of the tuner is pretty straight forward and includes power wires and OEM connectors to place the unit inline between the ECU and the Injector. The JD tuner is also the most cost effective fueling solution. Here's where the dealer installed the JD tuner on my bike...not the best spot for access. In this case you have to remove the right side plastics to get to the tuner. They could have easily mounted it on top of the battery to allow faster access. When I purchased the bike with 10hrs on the clock it already had the JD tuner installed and had been "Tuned" by the dealer where the original owner purchased it. The bike already had the 4.1 exhaust installed but had not been De-smogged. After the Desmog process it was time to test. The bike started hard at times and would stumble under throttle right after start up. This usually happened when cold but did happen a couple times when warm as well, the rest of the time the bike would fire right up and run normally. The bike would also flame out on occasion and popped during decel. I checked the settings and the tuner was set to lean for an open pipe, it was set for a stock exhaust (Green 4, Yellow 5/6, Red 6, Green/Blue 5, Yellow/Blue 4 and Red/Blue 4). I reset the tuner to the "factory" set point for a de-smogged bike with an open exhaust (Green 5, Yellow 6, Red 6/7, Green/Blue 6, Yellow/Blue 5 and Red/Blue 4). After the reset I took the bike out again and it did run better, seemed to pull harder off the bottom end and seemed to have quite a bit of snap on top. The starting issue persisted at times although less frequent and the popping on Decel was about the same. On the next few rides I played with the tuning, dialing in some more fuel on the "accelerator" pump setting and added a little to the bottom end as well chasing the decel popping. After numerous outings playing with the tuner the bike pulled hard and made a lot of power. The power seemed slightly abrupt off the bottom end (can be tamed somewhat by playing with the "accelerator pump" setting) but built good power through out the RPM range. The power never seemed completely linear to me and had spots that felt "Boggy" as you transitioned through the 1/4 throttle up to half settings. I was never able to completely eliminate the decel popping (I did check and no leaks at the exhaust were found contributing to the popping). In summary the JD tuner does an amazing job for the money, it transforms a stock bike into a power house compared to the stock ECU and with some more playing I think I could have dialed it in slightly better. If you travel with the bike or ride in drastically different climates or elevations you may have to re-visit the tuning to keep the bike spot on. Next up is the Athena GET RX1 Pro ECU (Green). The GET is a full replacement ECU and has quite a few options available over the JD unit. The GET comes with two maps pre loaded (Mike worked with Derek Harris of HP Racing Development to build the maps) and comes with a map switch so you can select between the maps while on the trail. Mike loaded mine with Map 1 set to Full On Honey Badger and Map 2 set to "Enduro" with a slightly softer bottom end. The GET also comes with an onboard WIFI unit that allows you to use your phone to tweak fuel and ignition changes in real time, check the bikes diagnostics and calibrate the TPS. You can change fueling +30% and -10% and ignition timing -30 Deg and +5 Deg. The GET has a barometric pressure sensor built in and will automatically compensate for altitude changes...nice! The GET also allows you to add their GPA Traction Control knob for use during slick condition. The GPA switch uses software to compare throttle settings with RPM and works to eliminate wheel spin by controlling the throttle faster than the rider can respond to wheel spin situations with their hand. There are 10 levels of traction control available at the touch of a dial. This unit is also fully water proof. Installation of the GET is really straight forward. You remove the OEM ecu then pull the ecu out of the factory rubber sleeve. Install the GET into the sleeve then re-install the GET just like the factory unit. Removing the Stock ECU. With the stock ECU removed the GET is installed in the factory rubber sleeve. The GET has a Barometric pressure sensor on the top of the ECU and the rubber sleeve covers it, the sleeve probably wouldn't have caused any issues but I cut a hole in the sleeve to ensure the sensor can function properly. Using a punch and a piece of wood to cut a breather hole for the pressure sensor. Back in the bike. You can see the WIFI module mounted over the battery with Velcro. Installed the GET Map switch. The switch is very robust and has a quality feel to it. Mounted the GPA Traction control knob to the bottom of the throttle assembly. This location is out of the way and allows quick access for adjustment. With the GET installed it's time to download the app and set up the WIFI. Setup went quickly following the included instructions. Once connected you can set up the profile for your bike. My bike set up in the app. Next up calibration of the TPS. The app makes this a quick and trouble free process. Here's the diagnostics tab...green means your good to go and no errors. Here's what the interface looks like for setting the fuel and ignition offsets. I'll leave everything at Zero or Factory settings for the first test. On the trail with the GET ECU. I have about 100 miles of both single and dual track on the ECU so far. The bike starts and idles spot on every time and I've yet to have to use the cold start knob (With outside temps down to 35 deg F). The popping on decel is completely gone, no popping while on long down hills or when abruptly chopping the throttle.....Nice! I experienced zero flame outs with the GET. Map 1 - Dialed is the word I'd use to describe this map. The power feels sooooo linear and smooth, there are no feelings of flat spots anywhere through out the throttle range. Power is Everywhere! Lofting the front end with throttle is super easy in 1st - 5th and requires little effort at the bars to loft in 6th as well. The power is predictable and I felt very connected to the bike. It may be just a tad lean at very light throttle settings when cruising at a steady speed around 35-40mph on pavement. I felt a very slight surge a couple times when cruising down black top to the trail, again it was very slight and I only felt it a couple times. Switching to Map 2 you can notice a slight ease in bottom end snap which could translate to control-ability in muddy or slick conditions. I ran several trips through a very rocky canyon we like to play in and tried both map 1 & 2 while in the canyon. Both maps worked really well and in the end I just left the bike in Map 1 for most of the trail. I haven't had the chance to try the map switch out yet in muddy or slick conditions which is where I feel the Map 2 setting would show it's benefit. GPA Traction control knob: I really like the theory behind the traction control unit and the "on the fly" adjust-ability the bar mounted knob provides. With my limited time on the bike I haven't had a chance to ride in muddy or slick conditions where the GPA would shine. I turned on the traction control and spun the tire in loose dirt and you could feel the engine cut out and the GET take control (Like it's hitting a rev limiter) telling me that the traction control is functioning. I can't wait to get some time on a muddy trail and see how the traction control behaves. The GET ECU....A Green Box of Magical Wizardry! I'm VERY impressed with the GET ECU. The mapping that Mike provided is SPOT ON, I haven't put any offsets into his mapping as of yet. On the trail I like the ability to use the phone to check diagnostics and I like that the ECU compensates for altitude changes automatically. On our long distance desert trips we routinely see 3000' to 10,000' elevation changes in the matter of a few hrs so the compensation feature is welcome. The GET gives you the bike that you really wanted when you purchased your 500, it turns the corked up factory bike into a flat out awesome machine! Vortex ECU: I'll be testing the Vortex next and will edit this post to include the results once I get some time on the unit. More to come.... Hodakaguy

    • FOR SALE
    • Used - Good

    2015 Beta 480rr race edition Always used motuls synthetics for oil and trans. Maintenance has been overdone you won’t find one thing wrong lol. Clean title Factory features include hydraulic clutch, billet triple clamps, Mylers, oversized radiators, electric start with kick, 6 speed, ignition switch for humid weather Suspension was done by racetech with their springs and valves for 180lb area. Controls- arc levers, flex handlebars, gpr v4 stabilizer, handguards, ims oversized foot pegs, hammerhead shifter, beta factory brake lever Cooling- mylers radiator bullet designs proof guards, samco hoses, and radiator fan Braking- dirttricks rotors, bullet designs front and rear rotor guards Lighting setup has Baja designs high output dc stator kit and trail tech/ procomp 7” race light Drive- x ring chain and dirttricks front and rear sprockets. brp chain guide with beta factory guide mount and clutch saver Engine has billet accessories/ fmf 4.1/desert tank and other than that, it is stock Front wheel has a rad hub with d.i.d. Hoop. Rear wheel and hub is stock, kenda tires I’m probably forgetting a few things


    Las Vegas nevada - US

  13. 0 comments

    Good sled. even though it is pretty old she still rips!
  14. ThumperTalk

    ATK 500 2004

    0 reviews

    MOTORCYCLE TYPE Dirt (not MX) ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Displacement (cc): 499 Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 2 Speeds: 5 Speed TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Number of speeds: 5 Speed Dry Weight (lbs.): 228
  15. Southeast US 2,200 miles
  16. Trying to get an idea for expected fuel mileage at full tilt boogie using VP T-4 gas. Bike is a 2013 KTM EXC 500 mapped with a wipe open exhaust, de smogged, 15/48 gearing. Racing the Mint this weekend, 80 mile loop and the average speed is + - 40 mph. Wondering what I can expect. Most of the trail riding I am doing while trying to gauge fuel consumption puts me near 30mpg which has me a bit worried. Anyone have any experience riding hard for 80 or more miles on 3.1 gallons of fuel????
  17. I just stumbled across a hell of a deal on a brand new FMF Megabomb for a 2014 KTM 350 SX-F. However, I have a 2014 KTM 350 XC-F, and on the ad it says the pipe fits the SX-F models but says nothing about fitting the XC-F. Does anyone know if the head pipes on the SX-F's and XC-F's are interchangeable? I assume they would be since they are identical motors, but I don't want to order it and be SOL.
  18. All right guys could use some help here. Last year I sold my motocross bike and decided I was going to convert my 2015 500 EXC into a more moto friendly setup. As I was doing so I started removing items I felt "unnecessary" (headlights, tail light, turn signals, etc) and put that stuff aside for when I wanted to put it back in street legal trim. Shortly after I had to move and put the bike in storage for a few months until I found a new place with a garage. So that brings us to now, I just pulled the bike out and decided to put all the dual sport stuff back on and make it street legal but can not get the turn signals to work. So here's the situation, Head light and tail/break light work, horn also works and everything is plugged in correctly but I suspect I might have gotten a bit trigger happy when removing the "unnecessary" components as I have found what appears to be a ground wire at the bottom of the bin I stored the removed parts in. I can't remember where this came from or why I cut the wire (see picture below) but I suspect this is the reason my turn signals aren't working. To add to my confusion, tucked behind the headlight I found a random female end of a bullet connector with nothing plugged into it and I'm not sure what would have gone there and if I removed that or it's just an extra accessory wire. The piece of wire I found that I cut has a female end on it doesn't plug in there :/ I also purchased the ktm service manual but the wiring diagram is so complicated I can't tell what is what. So if you own a 13- 15 500 exc or have knowledge in this area here's what I need to know... 1.What is the female bullet connector behind the headlight supposed to be used for? 2.Is the clipped black wire I found in my box the culprit for my faulty turn signals ? 3.If so, where does that wire go on the bike? pics below If you have any info that can help me figure this out please share and thanks for reading this, cheers!
  19. I have a 06 polaris predator 500 and just got the engine rebuilt. When I got it back it runs perfect, the only problem I have is when I try to shit it gets stuck and won't lock into neutral. It's currently stuck in second. Any Idea of what it might be or how I go about fixing it?
  20. I have a 2018 500 Exc-f with only about 60 Miles on it. I noticed today that at idle, if I blip the throttle quickly and then let off the engine will either bog down or die completely. I thought it may be related to the JD tuner I had just installed last night, but I unplugged the tuner and it is still doing it. Has anyone else had this issue? Please help! Only other mods done are the bike is desmogged. I didn’t notice this until after I had removed the tank in order to install the JD tuner last night. Could this be related?
  21. Hello everyone I finished most of the mod on my ktm today and its an hell of a beast. So far I've removed the reeds, installed the jd tuner, removed the end cap restriction, desmog both intake and exhaust. I must say it is very impressive. It is completly another bike from the one I bought 5 month earlier. Next thing for this summer would be a new set of tire since the one they give with the bike (contiental tkc) are very slippery. I want to use them because I won't be able to sell them so better burn them fast. I don't know at what psi I should run them I suppose Ill figure it out. Anyway, wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped me directly or via older post I've been reading lately. See ya
  22. Hello I'm brand new to this forum and I also just bought an ktm 500 exc-f. I am a long time mx driver (since I can walk) and Ive had mainly kawa motocross. I have 2 questions for you guys. 1. I wanna change the stock exhaust, but the dealer tell me there only 1 option and its and 1000$ akrapovik slip on. I looked on the web a little and everyone seem to have and fmf 4.1. Is it bolt on and where can I get one. 2. My last mx was an 2015 kx 250f, it seem the bike had way more power than this exc-f 500. Is there a more aggressive mapping option? Thanks in advance and I am happy to join a community who love bike just like I do
  23. Do someone has experience with the installation? Procedure specifiy to remove the engine....I plan to remove some coolant, put the bike to ground on the left side and do the job..... Thanks
  24. Just wanted to share a movie I made from the ride this weekend.
  25. hey all, im fairly new to riding and just kind of stumbled across thumper talk, i recently purchased a 1984 honda xr 500 and was wondering if anyone knew of any common problems or things to watch for. the bike was rebuilt and set in storage before i bought it so im not expecting any failures but im wondering where a guy could find parts for something this old. if anybody has some old pamphlets or knows where to find the owners manual too that would be awesome thanks.
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