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Found 15 results

  1. 0 comments

    What's the point of owning it if I can't give it 5 stars?! Seriously, I'm new to the dirt bike world. I've had a Harley, but never played in the dirt. I bought the bike and I'm completely going through it, and making it a dual sport and street legal. The only thing I won't touch is the motor for now, as it was just overhauled before I got it. I think this bike will have more power than I need and will put a smile on my face every time I ride her.
  2. I bought a set of All Balls rear wheel bearing and planned to change them and maybe ride today. It's not rocket science, right? I set the bearings into their spot with my bearing installer parts and before I put the wheel back on the bike, I just happened to put my finger in the axle hole to see how tight the spacer sat. It was flopping around and had almost 1/8 in. of end play. I'm 100% sure the bearings were set to the shoulder and if I had installed the wheel like this, the bearings would have bound up BADLY and probably failed in just few miles. I knocked the "new" bearings out and tried to figure out what was going on. The difference between the OEM bearings and the All Balls (probably Chinese) is the chamfer on the outside edge. The chamfer actually is what fits against the shoulder of the hub and the All Balls bearings have a VERY different profile of chamfer. One side had almost no chamfer so that chamfer profile fitting against the shoulder made the bearing sit farther out, even though it was set "home" all the way in. Both bearings had a different chamfer shape than OEM but one was worse than the other. Bottom line - money wasted and I'm shopping for quality bearings on Monday. I doubt I can return these. I've had them since winter.
  3. Ok guys, add one more to the list of riders attempting the USD fork swap to an XR frame. Quite a bit of research here on TT and ebay hunting brought me a pretty good deal on a set of forks, triples, and stem from a 00' CR 250. There are a few different options for adapting CR style forks to an XR. Bushings for upper and lower CR triples can be made to allow use of the stock XR stem. Specialty bearings can also be purchased to allow use of the stock CR stem in the XR neck. And finally what seems to be the most common; modification of the stock CR stem to allow use of XR sized bearings. I obviously chose to pursue the third option for a few reasons, the most prominent of which is serviceability. I wanted to keep as many wear items at possible as stock parts. This has two advantages; availability and price of replacement parts. $45 dollar a pop "specialty" thin section tapered bearings don't sound too appealing especially when being used on a 12 year old dirtbike. So now we can get to the meat of the issue; modification of the CR stem. I should begin by saying that i am NOT a draftsman. I've taken a few classes on engineering measurements but am far from an expert and probably only mildly proficient reverse modeling components. With that said, the first order of business was comparing an XR stem and bearings to a CR stem and bearings. Shown below. A little closer look at the XR setup. And the CR setup. Now to get out the calipers and model up the stock CR piece. I used a cheaper set of calipers and suspect their tolerance is +/- .01mm. Good enough for gov'ment work though! All dimensions in millimeters. Now to modify the CR stem to work with the XR bearings while remaining compatible with CR triple trees. There are a few things to say about why i did some things the way i did but most of the thoughts are included in the notes section of the drawing. With a resized stem we run into the problem of mounting the top triple clamp. The hole is too large for the stem. An insert bushing must be made to resize the hole in the clamp. Finally what the stem and bushing look like together. Last one. The difference in how the top triple clamp is located on the stem. The CR is equipped with a chamfer that provides a stop for the tree while the XR's triple appears to be limited only by the threads for the castle nut. So... would like to hear your opinions on the execution of the stem modification and bushing. I think having these drawings will make it simpler to have the modifications performed as opposed to asking the machinist to completely reverse engineer the part him/herself. And a final query: Anyone know the thread callout for the two threaded portion of a stock XR steering stem? My drawings show the outside diameter of the threaded portions and i have a cheap plastic pitch gauge that tells me a pitch of 1.0 but i am looking for something more concrete than what i have. Thanks for your thoughts and opinions.
  4. This post is not meant to be bashful in any way, however, I want to make people aware of recurring issue. I hope it saves others time and money. I purchased All Balls rear wheel bearings for my bike in 2013. Long story short, they failed on the first ride and destroyed my hub. I contacted the mechanic (a personal friend) and he ensured me that they were installed properly. I then contacted RMATV about the issue, and neither they nor All Balls were willing to help. After fighting tooth and nail, All Balls told me they were installed incorrectly and would not stand behind the failure. Again, I know that this was not the case. After several weeks of hounding RMATV to stand behind the products they sell, they ordered me a used hub off eBay and sent me a new set of All Balls wheel bearings. The hub arrived and the bearings in it were okay, so I saved the new set of bearings. In 2014, I needed the bearings replaced. I had the mechanic at work help me change them (he also owns a motorcycle/atv repair business). I watched the entire process so I know that nothing was done improperly. I have only rode 3 times since then (just graduated college and was working alot in the summers to pay for school). This past weekend, the new All Balls failed and destroyed my hub, spacers, axle, and possibly swing arm (axle seized and locked up, thus spinning on the swing arm). This was the 3rd ride on them (I checked the GoPro videos I had to verify this). Being a recent college grad with no current job, you can see why this is an issue. Maybe this is a sign I need to put the bike away for a while and work a little harder 🙄 I have attached pictures of the damage. I hope this saves someone some trouble in the future. I have an hour meter, but I do not keep a log book of maintenance done because I adjust my maintenance schedule with conditions of riding with hours run (Total hours on my bike are 62.5 since purchasing 6 years ago). There can’t be more than 6 or 7 hours on these new bearings. I do keep a log book for my street bike and lawnmower, so I attached some pics to give some credibility to my story that I do take excellent care of my stuff. As you will figure out from the pic, I am extremely particular about my maintenance. If I take this much care of a lawnmower, you can imagine the level of care my bike gets. Thanks for taking the time to read. I hope I can save someone the headaches and lost riding time.
  5. 2 reviews

    Complete kit with bearings and seals
  6. Ok, so new guy here. Had a few quads in my days, rode many a dirt bike in my younger years but never owned one. Always been a car guy (I bleed Ford Blue) and thought I find a cheap bike to have some fun with. Found this 1998 Kawasaki KX 125 for cheap and thought it be perfect to spend a couple bux on and have some fun. I rode the bike before bringing it home. I needed to be push started, but it DID RUN and it has a title, so I knew there was at least SOME value in this bike. Granted, it didnt run very well and bogged down and yadda yadda yadda. Fine, ill take it. So home it went. On the way home it dawned on me that even though i can fix and rebuild most any Ford V8 on the planet, that doesn't really make me super qualified to troubleshoot this ol 2-stroke. But, im not completely incapable of figuring things out and internal combustion driven stuff is generally fun, so screw it. Somewhere in the first hour of taking the plastics off and getting into the top end (keeping in mind that a "top end rebuild" is basically foreign to me) I decided that im gonna go full on Meth Head on this bike and completely tear it down. Check the whole thing out and see if I can get myself familiar with the bike. So thats whats happening now. Easter Sunday, the CL deal is done and the bike is home. Went all out on this super custom orange bike stand and here she is in all her old and neglected glory. But on a positive note, theres a SICK lil fanny trail pack. So theres that. So I got to this point and thought to myself, hmmm...this doesn't seem right at all. Car pistons shouldnt look like this, so im guessing this piston shouldn't either. Haha Insert artsy photo here... Look Dad, its just like a real piston, only smaller After being defeated by the final bolt, the swing arm bolt, for about 24 hours, I got it out and the frame is stripped.
  7. Took my lower link arm into a local shop to just have them pull my linkage arm bearings OUT because they can't be pressed through, and I figured since they do this stuff all the time...theyd be able to get them out clean. While I was droppin it off, I figured I would see if they could press my old stem bearing off and put the new one on. Turned out to be fairly inexpensive so I said just do both. Usually I would do my own, but figured it'd save me a trip (and gas) to my buddies who owns a 12T press. I left them my whole brand new All Balls stem kit and they were going to just pull out the lower bearing and seal needed. So, I go to pick the stuff up today. The parts guy begins to tell me how they pulled the upper one out to look at it, and noticed it was beat to sheit (pics provided). He said, they have seen this happen before with All Balls and its a manufacturing problem. I on the other hand have used a number of All Balls kits including the stem ones and never seen anything like this. Plus, and I am not 100% certain it wasnt there, but it just so happens that my stem is gouged in two places right where this upper bearing (smaller inner diameter) would have stopped and needed to be pounded on. As I said as best as I remember when cleaning the grease off the stem prior to drop off, there were no gouges on it. Judging by the previous owner(s), the linkage bearings were never touched. Well, after I got the arm back, the inside where the bearings seat is gouged to high hell and they gave me the bearing pieces back in a baggy. To their credit they said they were going to cut it and pull it out. I knew there was a risk in doing it this way of some damage to the part, which is why i figured if I took it in...itd be something they had done before since they are a yamaha dealer...Obviously they just took a screwdriver or something and went gun ho on it. I should have tried to get to someone beyond the parts guy while I was there, I am sure they will try to say I did it after I left. I wanted to get in touch with the seller on ebay and see if he has stuff dropped shipped through someone like WPS which would be a basic certainty they were NEVER opened or mount attempt made. And, contact All Balls direct to see if their story of manufacturers defect could hold any water whatsoever. IMO...its a straight up lie...because they think everyone who brings stuff in knows nothing....I just wanted to save the hassle since its close by and have them do it....big mistake its looking like. Siigh. I forgot the question, haha.. Anyone EVER had an All Balls part come out of the package looking beat like this? I mean to me its clear as day what happened to it.
  8. 3 reviews

    Contains all of the bearings, shafts, seals and bushings required to rebuild a swing arm to factory specifications Manufactured from 52100 bearing steel for improved performance and extended life Feature Teflon D coated washers in place of the thrust needle bearings Teflon D coated washers offer superior resistance to dirt, water and lack of lubrication which are all factors leading to premature failure
  9. At long last a major aftermarket supplier has brought an FCR slant carburetor rebuild kit to market And it includes the all important mid gasket. All Balls kit 26–1513 carburetor rebuild kit I bought this from an eBay ad and it didn’t reference the company all balls so I was surprised to see it come in today package from them it’ll be a few days before I get around to using the kit but once I do I’ll revisit this thread with my impression of the kit
  10. Well, I recently dragged home a new hunk of junk for my youngest son and I to rebuild. Now that my oldest son and I have the kx almost complete, there was a little time to get started on the cr: Sorry, my camera takes crappy pictures: Sure don't dig those gigantic side panels from the '98 - '99 years, but hopefully she'll look good when we're done: ...and so begins the teardown: Pretty much ALL of the bearings on the bike look like this: ....and this: Previous owner was brilliant. This brand new piston was installed in a cylinder (with no circlips I might add) that was so badly worn, with power valves that were so badly worn, the right PV was able to extend into the bore and contact the piston. Priorities were a little mixed up on his part, as the bike was fitted with a new FMF pipe and Shorty and brand new tires....but yet it needed SO much work....lol. Kind of reminds me of the guys you see with lifted 4x4's and the tires and rims are worth twice what the truck is worth...lol. Fingers on the clutch basket had some pretty serious notching: Here's a look at the complete bike at present. Ain't she a looker??? Time to get rid of this old seat cover: Hmmmm......some new foam my be in order as well... After we tore it down and gave everything a thorough inspection: The positives: Brand new tires front and rear, new Wiseco crank (bottom end is nice and tight), and new 53T rear sprocket... Negatives: We placed an order for the following required parts: - New bearing and seal kits for: - Steering head/stem - Front wheel - Rear wheel - Swingarm pivot - Linkage - Upper/lower shock mounts - New cylinder - Piston kit - Air filter, mounting element and winged mounting bolt - Cometic top end gasket kit - Water pump oil seal, water seal, and bearing - Right and left power valve assemblies - Clutch inner collar and needle bearing....yet to be determined, but I might replace the entire clutch... - Main shaft right side bearing - New Renthal gold chain and 12T front sprocket - New chain slider - New seat cover - New plastics and graphics - handguards and grips Hopefully we'll have all the parts within three weeks and with any luck have this old treasure mobile once again. I'll post more pics as we progress.....
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