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Found 1,156 results

  1. It is always a pain in the butt to try and remember where the long & short bolts are installed, when I have pulled the side cases or any other items off my bike, especially after a couple of days (or weeks) between work sessions. Here are few ways you can keep track of where each bolt goes. Camera Phone First remove the bolts one by one. Then lay the bolts out around the item as they came out of the case/item. Get out the camera & take a photo of the item with all the bolts layed out around the item in the exact place where they were removed from. You then have a permanent picture that you can refer to at any time in the future. After that get a ziplock sandwich bag, write the name of the item removed on the front of it & store the bolts in it so I dont lose them. I then stack the bags in the order that I removed the items, for easy reassembly. TIP : Use a light coloured surface, to lay the bolts out, for good contrast. Leave your nuts at home Every time you take off a part hand thread the bolt or nut back in its home....you can tear a bike to the floor and put it entirely back together without spending 1 extra minute of your life than you need to looking for nuts and bolts all over the shop, and even better, remembering two weeks later which bolt went where can be tough even for a pro. if they are in their home holes they never get scattered, and you never gotta go and stick a home depot bolt in your bike.....I hope this saves you hours of frustration. Cardboard Alright here's a pretty easy solution to keeping track of your bolts. Take a sheet of cardboard, and put holes through out. Now when you take bolts off, label on the cardboard to were it goes. Then put the bolt in the hole. Magnetic Parts Trays Another trick is to arrange the bolts in order in a magnetic parts tray. If you are pulling a case cover, put them in a circle around the edge of the tray, leaving a space to remind you where you started. Keep several trays, and use one for each sub-assembly that you take apart. These trays are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
  2. 1 review

    Our slim, trim, minimalist Buckin’ Roll Tank Bag has been completely redesigned for 2020, featuring 1.5 liters of packable volume, RF-welded waterproof construction, electronics pass-through, clear vinyl phone pocket — and designed to stay completely out of the way, with no buckles in knees or crotch, even when riding the most technical off-road terrain. Volume: 1.5 liter Dimensions: 7″ x 4″ x 4″ Fits virtually any motorcycle Keeps all of the essentials handy and out of the way when sitting on seat front or standing on footpegs Mounts behind gas cap for easy fueling Waterproof clear top fits smart phone Power cable pass-through to charge electronics on bike Tank Bag unzips from harness Reflective bars for visibility No buckles in knees or crotch
  3. 1 review

    Excellent protection, easy to install and absolutely no rattles.
  4. 1 review

    Abrasion and impact resistant. Built in rubber o-ring. Easy and intuitive installation. Hard shell in hard resistant PA6. Perfect fit to the ignition cover. Free clearance to the oil filter cover and cap. All mounting hardware included.
  5. 5 reviews

    Constructed from 8mm thick HDPE Plastic High load seams reinforced by plasti-welds Stronger than molded plastic & carbon fiber Quieter than alloy as no engine noise echoed 40% lighter than aluminum Flanges extend to cover pegs, brake pedal, case, stator & linkage 3 point anchor system keeps plate firmly in place no matter the abuse No deformation or movement when making hard contact with rocks/logs Easily installed/uninstalled for maintenance & cleaning Removal not necessary for oil change Fit & Finish is excellent; bright colors and tasteful styling
  6. 1 review

    Replacement for weak OEM upper and lower tank bolts. Available as kit (upper and lower bolt assembly) for 2008-2013 or 2014-on models. (Fits on Husqvarna 701) - 701 owners, please read THIS! Button head bolts are now included in the kit. Upper assembly (bolt caps and bolts) is also available as separate item too and it is same for all model years. KTM 690 Enduro/Enduro R/SMC suffer from known and documented problem with weak upper subframe (tank) bolts. This kit minimizes chance of failure of upper subframe (tank) bolts, by preventing free play in lower tank joint and by improving quality and design of upper tank joint. KTM 690 Enduro and Husqvarna 701 tank bolts issue explained. Kit consist of upper and lower assembly. Upper assembly: Upper bolt caps(qty. 2) are made of AISI 4140 steel, heat treated (for added strength) then zinc coated (rust protection). That makes them virtually indestructible. Size of the head is standard – 27 mm, same as front axle nut. There is M6 threaded hole for OEM bolt holding plastic fairing. Bolt cap is designed to be slim so plastic fairing is not sticking out more then it does when OEM upper bolt is used. Upper bolts (qty. 2 + optional 2) are 12.9 machine bolts, zinc coated. These are much stronger then OEM upper tank bolts. 25 mm long, so 15 mm is threaded into the bolt cap, when properly torqued. NOTE: in kits for 2014-2016 bikes additional button head bolts are provided - those are for Husqvarna 701 bikes. M6 small washers(qty. 2)are standard M6 steel zinc coated washers. These are used with OEM M6 bolts, that holds side fairings and bolts into the upper bolt cap. Lower assembly: Lower bushings (qty. 2) are made of strong plastic - polyamide with molybdenum, much stronger then OEM rubber lower bushings, yet gentle enough to be in close contact with plastic tank (rubber OEM upper bushings are kept, because completely rigid tank-frame connection wont be a good thing). Slightly different size, so they fit better. Sleeve(qty. 1) is made of AISI 304 stainless steel, without internal thread. Lower bolt (qty. 1) design is only difference between kit for 2008-2013 and 2014-on bikes. For 2008-2013 bikes high quality M8x140 allen head 12.9 zinc coated bolt is provided. For 2014-on bikes custom M8x154 mm hex head 10.9 zinc coated bolt is provided. Washers (qty. 1) are standard large M8 steel zinc coated washers andnut(qty. 1) is standard M8 steel zinc coated safety nut.
  7. 1 review

    FEATURES Sold as pair Injection-molded, quality plastic components with a perfect OEM type fit. Exact replica of stock OEM plastic components but stronger Inexpensive alternative to OEM replacement parts. Stock color match with less fade Glossy and flexible Impact and abrasion resistant Less prone to scratching or marking Packaged in a printed plastic bag
  8. 1 review

    FEATURES Price includes 4 MOLLE stix. Fits a single Primus or MSR style 1l fuel bottle for added fuel storage. Also conveniently fits a 750ml plastic flask. Interior drawstring & ripstop to prevent small items from sliding out. Can be quickly attached/removed. Can also be used for added storage for tools, tubes, and other easy-access items. Made from sturdy and water resistant 22oz PVC and Ballistic Nylon.
  9. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION New and Improved version! By far our best selling product, Our skid plates are made of rugged 3/16" aluminum. They feature tig welded engine guards. Installation is an easy bolt on procedure with all mounting hardware included! It also offers a built in clean out slot and oil plug hole, making them the best in the business! Plus it is a wiser choice than carbon fiber,due to lower cost and far better durability.
  10. 1 review

    PRODUCT DETAILS Kit consists of radiator shrouds, front fender, rear fender, side panels and headlight shroud (fits your stock headlamp). Fork guards sold separately. This is O.E.M. plastic from Japan. Fits the WR250X/R.
  11. 1 review

    PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Named after one of the toughest enduro races in the world, Touquet is a handguard designed to offer strong and reliable protection of your hands. Touquet is sold with a universal mounting system that fits most handlebars, whatever their internal and external diameter. New aluminum bar guarantees better structural and abrasion resistance. Aluminum bar with a new curvature adapts better to cables and levers. Extended protection from dirt, rocks and wind. Perfect for enduro and trail bikes. Cooling vents for airflow. Decoration: Screen-printed and raised logo for better and longer lasting looks. Complete package includes the new universal mounting kit (fits most handlebars on the market). Fits handlebars with outside diameter: 22 - 26 mm (7/8 - 1"). Fits handlebars with inside diameter: 13 - 18 mm (0.50 - 0.71"). Handguard assembled with only one key - Allen key size: 5 mm (key NOT included). Weight: 960 grams (2.11 pounds).
  12. 1 review

    GENERAL INFORMATION Ergonomically designed and extensively tested for the latest Suzuki models. Each seat has a special insert of flexible SaddleGel below a top layer of cushioning foam with a vinyl seat cover. The gel is a rubberlike material that stays flexible down to temperatures of -40F. The gel equalizes body weight pressure for improved comfort. Each seat features a metal plate at the back with the bike's logo. Only Suzuki Genuine Accessories badged gel seats use a standard Suzuki seat base and hardware for a perfect fit with no modifications.
  13. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION Slipstreamer S-06-C S: 06 Spitfire Windshield Clear 7/8in. Compact and streamlined protection Fully adjustable and quickly detachable Fits round and rectangular headlights
  14. 7 reviews

    This mirror is the product of much frustration- I spent years breaking other designs and wondering what was going on behind me on the road. Eventually, when I dropped my bike and found myself buying two(!) new master cylinders as a result, I decided it was time to make a really good mirror, one that would function well as a mirror, and also protect the bike (and me) from damage. I had three goals for my design: 1. That it work as well as an OEM mirror for seeing what was going on behind. 2. That it would be indestructible. It would have to give way in a crash to avoid damage not only to the mirror, but also to the bike. 3. That it could fold completely out of the way, so that when I am offroad, I don't have to think about it. Many experiments later, the mirrors for sale here is the result. Both models hit all three marks right on the nose. We use SAE spec glass to give maximum visibility (it can be important to distinguish Crown Victoria headlights from other vehicles!), it is made right here in Colorado Springs from a super tough nylon that we are so certain will survive we offer a lifetime warranty (on the housing, not the glass, but you can buy the glass seperately), and sure enough, it folds right down when you want it gone. If you're deciding between the Adventure model, and the Enduro, our advice is simple. If you plan to fold the mirror down a large percentage of the time, the Enduro is right for you. The long size means the head of the mirror tucks away right behind the headlight. If the mirror will more or less remain extended, get the Adventure- the more compact design is more stable at highway speeds. Either way, you can't go wrong.
  15. 2 reviews

    DESCRIPTION The SXSlide Plate was designed out of 1/4″UHMW plastic to protect your bike from tip to tail. This lightweight yet extremely durable material replaces bulky aluminum skid plates and has our linkage guard built in. Slide over offroad obstacles, protect your linkage and destroy the competition.
  16. 5 reviews

    Our radiator guards have been designed to provide great protection with minimal reduction in airflow while keeping the weight increase down. All of our radiator guards incorporate tubes across the face of the guard offering excellent side impact protection. Most designs include substantial rear bracing to further enhance both side impact and fold back strength. The grill design has been flow tested and reduces linear air flow by less than 10% at lower speeds when compared to the standard louvre grill supplied with most bikes.
  17. 1 review

    PRODUCT DETAILS Moose Racing has dedicated itself by providing the rider and racer with the highest quality and best performing products. With thousands of items from racewear to casual apparel, to boots and the finest in hard parts and accessories, Moose Racing offers the most comprehensive list of products in the industry to satisfy all of your riding needs. The burliest rear disc guard on the market, offering protection for the caliper and the rotor. This disc protector replaces the entire brake carrier for the most coverage available. Thick aluminum alloy guard keeps out the rocks and roots. High quality and extremely durable. Easy bolt-on installation. Made in U.S.A.
  18. 3 reviews

    GENERAL INFORMATION These GYTR® radiator cages offer another level of protection against serious radiator damage. Full cage with rod design. Lightweight yet sturdy constructed with stamped 3.2 mm aluminum to provide strength and protection in the event of side impacts. No modifications necessary. Installs in minutes; easy-to-install design means radiator removal is not required. DETAILED SPECIFICATIONS Enhanced longevity is possible because the radiator braces aren't solidly mounted to the frame, unlike other products that can transfer vibration to the radiators.
  19. Here's how to always quickly know the torque specs on your ride's fasteners, saving you a lot of time looking specs up in the manual. Take a Sharpie pen and on the head of the fastener, write the torque spec on the it. If the bolt is black, use a silver or other contrasting color Sharpie. Then, for quick visual pre-ride inspection, put a dot or other mark on the fastener, then an aligning mark on the material that its fasten to. Then, if the two marks are no longer aligned, you'll know that the fastener has moved. This is a good technique for critical fasteners such as on drive sprockets, triple clamps & axle nuts. And, don't worry, Sharpie pen marks wipe off easily with a little brake cleaner or other solvent.
  20. How to: CRF250R front number plate on your 250X This is a UFO brand front number plate. I’m guessing that this plate is a little different than the other plates out there. The 1st step that I took is to cut off the large center tab. I used my dremel drill and took my time to make sure the finished product looked nice. Here are my pictures 2nd step that I took was to apply heavy duty Velcro to the sides of the new number plate. The 3rd step was to drill holes in to the two tabs on the top of the number plate I used a 1/8” drill bit and made the hole oblong. The 4th step was I took my light hook up and wrapped it up with plumbers tape to protect it and then used duct tape to secure it, and I placed heavy duty Velcro on the sides of the lower triple clamp. The 5th step was to place the number plate on the bike. Make sure you fish the long tab on the top under the break line 1st. Then place it on the Velcro. Next I attached the top holes that I made in the number plate to the holes for the bolts for the head light number plate with zip ties. Don’t tighten them up at this point just get them started. Next step I slowly started tightening the zip ties from one side to the other. Take is slow and step back from time to time to make sure the plate is level and square. Then after you’ve got it tight cut off the tails. Then she’s done.
  21. Here is a definitive guide on how to polish any aluminum surface to a mirror shine. Items Needed: - Oven Cleaner - 200, 400, 600, 1000 and 2000 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper - Polishing Cream - Wax - Clear Coat (Optional) Step 1: Clean the dirt off the part to be polished Step 2: Spray your part with oven cleaner to strip the corrosion off. (I use Easy Off) Step 3: Begin sanding with the 200 grit sandpaper across the grain. Do so until the grain is almost gone. (Make sure to keep the sandpaper wet). There will be a considerable amount of black stuff (oxidized aluminum). Step 4: Take the 400 grit and sand in the same direction until the grain is all gone (still keeping it wet). Step 5: Take the 600 grit and sand this time in a swirling pattern until all you see is swirls (still wet). Step 6: Repeat step 5 but with the rest of the sand paper, using a higher grit each time. Step 7: By now your part will have a very shiny finish and you may be satisfied, but now take your polishing cream and buff your part until it is mirror shiny. Step 8: Wax your part just like you would a car. Step 9 (Optional): Apply a spray on clear coat to your part to help protect it. To restore your shine: Simply start at step 1 & 2 but then skip to step 7. Watch as people stare at themselves in your shiny parts.
  22. Got white flex marks on your plastics? Tools needed: cleaner, heat gun (adjustable works best) Work description: Clean the plastics, take the heat gun and slowly heat it from the back side. Slowly heat until the plastic is changing the color. Let it cool and you´re done. In some cases you need to treat both sides. Test the procedure on some old parts first to get a feeling for the right temperature. ### Got scratches on your plastics? Tools needed: Sand paper (#100 - # 1000), cleaner, heat gun (adjustable works best) Work description: Wet sand the plastics starting with the low grain first (# grain depending on the depth of the scratches) und finish with #1000 sand paper. Clean the plastics. Slowly heat until you see the plastic changing the color sort of like starting to melt. Let it cool down and you´re done. Test the procedure on some old parts first to get a feeling for the right temperature.
  23. This works so well I felt I needed to share it with others. If you know a particular, upcoming ride is going to punish your bike's plastic or metal bodywork, this cheap and easy method will totally prevent it in all but the most extreme circumstances. "Con-tact" brand clear shelf liner is available at Walmart and dozens of other places. It comes in a 18" x 9' roll and is relatively cheap. It has a backing that peels off and it sticks to plastic or metal body work. It is rubbery, durable, and completely transparent. And best of all, it easily peels right off in a sheet without leaving even a hint of glue after the trip! It will work on almost anything but plastic tanks, engines, or exhausts. (Fuel vapors will excape through plastic tanks and interact with the glue, and extreme heat will melt it. You've been warned.) It can be applied wholy on flat surfaces, or cut into strips and overlapped to conform to any shape. Even if stripped and overlapped, it will still peel off in one large sheet. Use it to protect almost anything in abnormally severe conditions.... On your metal tank to prevent wear from knees or tank bags; On your side panels under the saddle bags; On your fender under the spare tube; On your rear fender under that 50 pound duffle; On your painted rear rack under the spare gas can. Or just cover anything you know is about to take a beating. It even helps in minor crashes and fall-overs! The possibilities are endless. It works safely on both painted and unpainted surfaces. Put on 2 or 3 layers under tail bags, saddle bags, or any other heavy loads - or anywhere else if it makes you feel better. No one will even notice it. It easily lasts for weeks and then peels right off in seconds, leaving nothing but a like-new shine. One roll is enough for years of excursions. I protected my XR650L using this method on a fully loaded, 2000 mile, western leg of the TransAm Trail. I came away without a scratch after almost 2 weeks with heavy things bouncing around on my side panels, layers of abrasive dust, and even dropping it a few times in sandy terrain. There were several others on the trip and no one even noticed I had done it till afterwards, when I jerked it right off to reveal my bike's perfect shine among a crowd of well worn machines! This is truly one of the best little tricks in motorcycledom. It will prevent wear and tear on those "hardcore" rides and help to keep your bike looking like new and it's resale value high. I have used it on both street and trail bikes without a glitch, but I still suggest you try it in a small, inconspicuous location before going full tilt, just in case. Good Luck!
  24. Finding a nice front disc cover for a bike with conventional forks is hard these days, so here is a good Idea, I got this acerbis spider evolution disc cover and its mount that fits CRF 2004-2008 it replaces the stock right wheel spacer and holds the cover at the same time: So this spacer is way to big for my bikes axle so I had to work it so it could fit my bike Here the disc cover and housing on place just to see how it fits Its all about your bike's right wheel spacer dimensions so they could be copied on the acerbis one. Hope it benefits you!!
  25. I recently bought a 1999 Honda XR250R that had been mildly modified by the prior owner(s). It came mounted with an oversized, aftermarket tank but the seller threw in a red XR400R tank he had in the garage. I wanted to use a smaller, OEM sized tank for day to day riding so I decided to try to mount the 400 tank as I could not find an OEM 1996+ XR250R tank within my budget. After I used the red 400 tank, someone on TT sold me a white 400 tank and I ended up using the white tank as it matched my plastic. I don't know what vintage either tank is. I asked on TT, searched online, etc. to determine if an XR400R tank would fit on an XR250R. The findings were diverse, ranging from absolutely not to it would fit fine. Some findings were based, in part, on the fact that some aftermarket tank makers used the same tank for both models. So, here are my own findings: Does the tank fit and function? Yes. Is it perfect and precise? No. Does it look like it fits? Yes. Is it secure and solidly mounted? Yes. Did it mount right on without work? No. Was it alot of work? No. Any issues with the petcock, seat front attachment, securing hardware, etc.? See below. Yes, some people will still say that you absolutely cannot mount a 400 tank on a 250, etc., etc. I won't debate the issue, I'll simply share my own experiences and you can decide for yourself if it works. Here's what my bike looked like with the red 400 tank mounted. Here is how it finally ended up, with the white 400 tank mounted. The XR250R uses this "collar" (PN 83119-GT4-000) to attach the retention band. It may also be used to lock in the front part of the seat: The XR400R uses this "stay" (PN 17525-KCY-670) to attach the retention band and seat: The retention band (PN 17516-MN1-670) is used to snug down the rear of the tank, and the cable loop may be intended as a leash to keep the tank from moving too much in a crash. What appears to be a wrapping of electrical tape is the way it comes new: The front of my seat has a recess that helps lock it to the back of the tank: When I tried to use the "collar" on the white tank, the seat would not lock into the collar (# 1) and the rubber of the retention band was very tight (# 2). It would have worked, but I thought I could improve on it: The seat recess fit very well on to the "mushroom" on the back of the stay so I decided to use it instead of the collar. The stay bolted right on to the tank and fit into the recess molded into the tank. I liked the stay but the band seemed a little too loose: On both the red and white 400 tanks, I tried the 250 forward mounting hardware and they bolted right up to the tanks. The forward mounting plates (PN 17522-KCE-670) are the same on both the 1999 250 and 400. The front of the tank mounts perfectly to the attachment points on the frame: With the front of the tank firmly mounted to the frame and sitting on the XR250R's rubber tank bumpers I noticed the bottom of the petcock was very close to the top of the engine. The 250 and 400 use very different rubber mounting bumpers between the tank and the frame. I took some rubber and padded the area between the top of the frame and the tank. This tightened up the retention band (# 1), cushioned the area between tank and frame (# 2) and moved the petcock well clear of the engine: Is it a perfect fit? No, there is a slight gap between the tank and seat front: However, the gap is not that noticeable IMHO and everything seems tight and secure: So, I would say that the 400 tank fits fine and is secure as shown. I can live with the gap. If a 1996+ XR250R tank became available at a great price I might consider getting it but I can't see that it would be a huge improvement over what I have. I am very happy with the look, fit and feel of my Honda XR250R with an XR400R tank sitting on it! Yes, I know this is something of a duplicate thread, but I wanted to show the procedure for the benefit of anyone thinking about using a 400 tank but unsure if it could be done. Additional info: No problems with switching out petcocks. When I looked at the petcock, I noticed the tube-shaped filter was disintegrating and the gasket was dried out, so I ordered replacements. Bolt holes lined up and bolts fit fine but the fuel line had to be replaced with a slightly longer one (but this may be because the fuel line was for the larger IMS tank which put the petcock a little lower and off to the side). I used some extra fuel line as the vent hose for the tank, easy way to keep some spare hose handy. Be sure to check the functioning of the petcock while you have it off, good time to clean it up and be sure you get full flow. If you replace the tube filter, be sure to carefully place the little black grommet (comes with the filter) on the top of the brass filler tube. An online check shows that a 2000 Honda XR400R tank has a 2.5 gallon capacity including a 0.4 gallon reserve. I do not know what year my tanks are from, so YMMV.
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