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Found 231 results

  1. ThumperTalk

    Scar Racing Brake Clevis

    1 review

    Eliminate the play in the OEM brake pedal Rigid and lightweight design Provides better control of the rear brake
  2. ThumperTalk

    Braking STX Brake Rotor

    1 review

    Floating rotors with a stainless steel external braking track and aluminum carrier for more braking power due to the high % of carbon in the steel and the high friction coefficient that it results in Best resistance to heat: the floating design allows for the outer disk, where the heat is generated, to expand and contract instead of warping The STX disks characteristics result in a lighter, better performing and great looking brake rotor Sold Individually Polished Finish
  3. ThumperTalk

    Braking CM46 Sintered Brake Pad

    2 reviews

    Sintered metal pad for motocross, off-road, and ATV racing Provides powerful bite using less force/pull on the brake lever Works great in all racing conditions and temperature and offers a consistent brake pad performance throughout the entire race
  4. ThumperTalk

    SDG Galfer Rear Brake Rotor

    1 review

    Fits all year models
  5. ThumperTalk

    EBC Oversized Brake Rotor Kit

    4 reviews

    Supercross Contour discs not only provide a trick looking brake set up, but also deliver great and improved brake feel over conventional solid discs. Made from heat treated carbon steel with higher friction and more stopping power than stainless steel. Luster finish gold anodized to prevent corrosion. Extra weight reduction reducing unsprung weight. Stylish contoured profile.
  6. 1 review

    PRODUCT DETAILS Tusk Oversized Floating Typhoon Brake Rotor kits are made for increased performance and braking power for your motorcycle. Oversized 270mm diameter rotors are made from a special tempered stainless steel that is not only durable but will work with any type of brake pad. Brake rotors are precision laser cut to maximize brake pad surface contact. Full floating rotor design ensures optimal pad to rotor contact and even heat distribution for maximum braking force and smooth feel. Tusk Oversized Floating Typhoon Brake Rotor kits come complete with a billet aluminum caliper relocation bracket. Large 270mm diameter dirt bike rotor increases braking leverage for high performance stopping power. Rotors are laser cut from a special tempered stainless steel that is not only durable but will work with any type of brake pad. Full floating rotor design ensures optimum pad to rotor contact and even heat distribution for maximum braking force and smooth feel. Kit comes complete with oversized brake rotor and billet aluminum caliper relocation bracket.
  7. Shane Watts

    How to Bleed Brakes - Video Tutorial

    find more tips by Shane About Shane
  8. 0 reviews

    PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Motomaster Flame Series brake disc rotors One thing I like about the Beta is they come stock with good quality aftermarket stuff like the Galfer discs, and as with most genuine Beta parts they are quite cheap too. I put the Galfer discs on the second set of wheels I bought with trials tyres, then scouted around for any other options to the stock Galfer discs. Eventually I settled on a set of Motomaster Flame discs when I realised they were top of the line brake rotors but the same price as the genuine Beta discs. I'm pretty fussy about brake discs as I researched them heavily a few years ago when I was having custom made discs made for motard projects. Just pause to read more... A few years ago I did try a set of cheap Chinese discs but down very steep descents they would start an annoying screeching sound, and on some of the longer descents they would start to fade, pretty unnerving if you've never had this happen before. Obviously our slow technical riding rarely pushes a brake disc very hard but we do have some very long steep descents that can drop about 1000 feet in altitude. I've only ever had the stock Galfer discs on the Beta fade once, but that was enough to swing me over to trying the Motomaster Flame Series. In a nutshell? Motomaster is a Dutch-based company and the discs are made in Holland - which can only be a good thing as I've spent some time in the Netherlands and those guys tend to be obsessive about things like quality control. Since 1997 they've become extremely popular discs for competition and they are now the standard disc in the KTM Hard Parts catalogue. If you are just pottering around on your bike then obviously cheap discs may suit your purposes. But if you usually prefer to use reasonably good discs I'd recommend you compare prices with the Motomaster Flame series, it's usually not big step up in price to a set of discs that won't let you down on those steep long downhill runs. A few other reviews I found... Motocross Action Magazine The hardened stainless steel Flame rotors are laser-cut, CNC-drilled and surface-machined to provide almost perfect flatness. That is the key to solid braking. Once our Flame rotors were broken in (and the pads seated to them), the stopping power was impressive.... This is a night-and-day mod for 2015 Yamahas and Suzukis. Bill Baker, Reno NV I've used moot-master on all my motors for racing and also for street work. Great tuff stuff. Motorcycle News Stopping power, put simply. This saw blade-like rotor is the recommended brand to suit the SBS carbon racing pads in my TZR250 (a similar set-up is used by some World Supersport teams), and between the two parts I can stick my race bike on its nose hard, late and with confidence. Feel is good, it’s light and looks great too. Enduro Illustrated Really liked the quality of construction. Great feeling and power. There was no aggressive initial grab, instead a progressive strong feeling and power which gave us confidence and security.
  9. Killed my front rotor today on a rock garden. Dead, kaput, thanatos! For offroad use primarily and some dual sporting, what front rotor replacement would you recommend? Stock size or oversized @270mm? Solid or floating? EBC, Motomaster, Braking, any other? Power vs. durability vs. value for money? What say you fellow TT'ers? PS. Hurry up, I need to make my mind up soon, I 'll go ill if I don't ride next weekend!
  10. 5 reviews

    SPECIFICATIONS Smoother & Stronger Braking Stainless Steel Fittings and Bolts Eliminate That Spongy Feeling Sharper and More Responsive Braking Finest Quality Stainless Steel Braided Hose Lifetime Warranty More Reliable Braking System Superior Abrasion and Corrosion Resistance Race Proven Technology
  11. Sierra_rider

    Tusk Rear Brake Clevis

    1 review

    DETAILS Tusk rear brake clevises are CNC machined from lightweight 6061-T6 aluminum for a perfect fit to replace your stock clevis. Brake clevises are anodized for corrosion resistance and to give your motorcycle that factory look. Made from CNC machined 6061-T6 aluminum. Anodized for corrosion resistance and to give your motorcycle that factory look. Includes new pin and clip.
  12. KeystoneSM

    Brake Bleeding

    Got hit by a guy in September. Part of the damage was the front brake line broke. Bought a new HEL steel braided brake line and am not getting shit for feedback. I have bled from, both master cylinder and caliper banjo bolts. The bleeder valve. I zip tied the brake lever for 24hrs. I even went and bought a mighty vac. Still not getting any significant pressure build up. Any tips, what am I doing wrong? Pump 5-15x. Hold. Crack bleeder. with mighty vac Build van pressure to 15psi, crack bleeder. Refil resivoir. Repeat pumping. Going insane.
  13. I just installed the OE front brake micro-switch on my 2014 XC-W. It's stock switch on the EXC and all of the front brake perch part numbers are common between the XC-W and EXC. As you can see in the picture, the brake lever comes nowhere near engaging the switch. Even with the lever adjusted fully away from the bar (which would be too far for me to reach comfortably), there is still air between the lever and the switch. Obviously, applying the front brake pulls the lever further from the switch. I know I can use a hydraulic banjo switch but I already bought this OE switch and I wonder if there's an adjustment I'm over looking? The picture below is the brake lever at rest. TIA.
  14. Anyone know where I can purchase a rebuild kit for the rear brake caliber on a 1988 Kawasaki KX 125 F1 model? The dust boot seal on this one is finished, the piston is pitted in a few spots and the bleed nipple is clogged with dirt and rust. So far I have only found kits for 1989 G1 models onwards.
  15. Baxter67

    Beta 300 RR (2015)

    0 comments

    I told my wife I was buying a bike with everything I wanted on it when it's new, so I ordered this on Beta's BYOB at $12,000 total, in July '14 and received it Sept '14, a great deal for what's in the bike, I was surprised she was good with that. The bike has been reliable and has me riding faster than ever.
  16. Romy

    Honda XR400R (1999)

    0 comments

    Over the years I’ve owned a few dual sports, street legal from the factory: XT, DRZ, CRF-L. Each one was lacking in one way or another. Heavy, underpowered and burdened with emissions crap. I always found myself modding the crap out of them to confidently take on aggressive woods / atv trails. Basically, I had a $3-4000 machine which I had to dump a bunch more $$$ into to get the performance I wanted. So, I picked up this ‘99 XR400 for cheap money. For $1400 bucks, it needed tires, a chain and a carb cleaning. Bone stock mechanically, it already had more power than any of my previous DP’s (so there’s untapped potential). It came already set up with a BajaDesigns light kit, proTaper bars, Acerbis bark busters and an IMS 4.0 gallon tank. I tuned it up, added a Doubletake Mirror, RAM mounts for my GPS/Phone and I’m riding it a bunch and enjoying it very much!
  17. Kamikazejr

    Suzuki DR-Z125L (2006)

    0 comments

    great starter bike super low maintenence
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