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Found 15 results

  1. SS109

    Gas Gas XC 250 (2011)

    0 comments

    This is actually a 2011 GasGas EC250 Racing and not an XC. Anyway... Last of the small framed GG's! These bikes fit my short self better than any other bike I have ever ridden. Really like the styling and the little details that most don't think about that this bike has. OEM it comes with a hydraulic clutch, dual ignition mapping, Galfer rotors, Vforce III reeds, 2k3 stator, an actually useful headlight, and a lot of smaller details. I'm really loving the 48mm PFP Zokes up front and the Ohlins 888 shock. The forks are plush without feeling mushy and vague. The shock, well, it's Ohlins! Just dial it in and it works great everywhere. This bike has a lot of bells and whistles added by it's previous owner (Thanks Ricky D!) along with a ton of extra parts when they're needed. Currently equipped... BRP bar isolators/Scotts damper setup, Renthal twin walls, Fastway barkbusters w/Cycra shields, MSR pegs, Lectron carb, Rekluse Core EXP 3.0 w/matching billet clutch basket, Emperor Racing radiator cages, RB head mod, LTR powervalve cover, FMF Gnarly pipe and Q4 Stealth silencer, carbon fiber pipe guard, Renthal 13t CS sprocket, Supersprox 48t rear sprocket, No Toil dual layer air filter, Twin Air billet air filter cage, bib mousses front and rear, Kenda Parker DT's front and rear, and I'm sure I'm forgetting a thing or two! Now, for the only things I don't like. The seat reminds me of a KTM it is so hard but instead of a 2x4 like KTM it feels more like a 2x6! The other is how the air filter locates on the air box. You have to be really careful to get it seated correctly. Next mods for me are Tubliss on both ends and Goldentyre Fatty 90/100 up front and a Shinko 525 cheater 120/100 rear. Also have some smaller diameter Scott Deuce grips coming as well. Hopefully this will complete the mods I want to make and I'll be ready for the upcoming AMRA racing season. Overall, I'm really loving this bike and thinking I will be enjoying it for years to come.
  2. PressTone

    KTM 300 XC (2011)

    0 comments

    Love it
  3. halo.spaceboy

    Husaberg FS570 (2011)

    0 comments

    Review: Once I got it setup how I wanted it... it became the best bike I have owned. 6-speed, Fuel injected, 250lbs, 56.5 stock WHP(I have the dyno), full suspension (yes, it is identical to FE setup), hydraulic clutch, brembo brakes, and everything is made to be disassembled trackside. No complaints! People think that the range on it is bad. Most riders fill up every 100 miles and this can do that plus some on a tank. I am a little bit frustrated that there is no tripometer, There is an aftermarket switch you can get (speedo dependent.. http://www.ktm-parts.com/54814073000.html).. but i never did. Instead I bought a Trail Tech.. it is easy to setup and I got a great deal on a voyager. Trail Techs can connect right to the factory speedo sensor so that was easy and it will give you a tach too! I need to point out that everyone thinks there is a problem with parts availability.. wake up, its 2016 & we have the internet now. Here are some of the regular places I go to for parts: http://www.husabergshop.se/ (good KTM part number reference) http://www.ktm-parts.com/ (I get a lot of stuff here) http://www.gunnisonmotorsports.com/aboutus.htm http://slavensracing.com/ https://www.brpmoto.com/ http://www.enduroeng.com/ Maintenance: 1. Valve shims. You probably will have to shim the valves after the breakin.. after that, they have not moved.. 2. Oil Change frequency is no different than any other KTM/MXer. Everyone looking to go to this bike complains about oil change frequency... STOP TRYING TO COMMUTE on this thing. You easily can.. and sometimes I do... but I know that i will have to change the oil. This is not a daily commuter, it is a daily monster. There is a reason why honda civics go for 10k miles without an oil change.. they are commuter vehicles, that is their thing. If you want a commuter bike, buy a DRZ (I love my DRZs BTW). Also.. yes, motorex and KTM filters are expensive but you dont HAVE to use them. There are alternative filters however the alternate oil options that you SHOULD use are also expensive. Necessary/Recommended upgrades and Known issues: ***Dont buy a piggyback/parallel unit such as the dynojet/JD tuner/bazzaz.. I tried the JDJetting one and it was very disappointing. I still have it.. sitting in a box somewhere.. what a waste. Instead, just do the below... 1. US Model runs lean as hell stock.. .. remove the evap canister .. talk to Fritz Kadlec(the owner) and send him your ECU to flash with the competition map. This is night and day. 2. Get the timing/ignition map switch.. KTM/Berg factory is good.. or the TT Online one. Set it to 'wild' and you might as well forget about it. 3. Get a full pipe. The factory exhaust is very restrictive. I have FMF megabomb setup.. it is cheaper and has only a fraction of less gain than AK. 4. DNA Air Filter.. dont mess with the twin air and so on.. just get DNA, it is the best and is as easy to maintain as a K&N. (have to order from EU) 5. Everyone says the factory fuel pump is crap.. rumor always seems to be that it is dues to excessive heat. I am not sure I believe that. Regardless, I had a B$%^$ of a time with the pump. Bike would run awesome, then randomly die while riding. After power off/on, fuel pump doesn't prime. Replaced the pump with CACycleWorks & same thing. CA Cycleworks sent me another one for free (something about the heat index testing may not have been done on the one I received). No worries.. after getting it all back together. Similar problem. Long story short, I soldered the leads to the fuel pump on, never had an issue since. I dont know why it is good now.. just know that the bike vibrates pretty hard while under throttle. It has been almost 3 years without issue. 6. The bike is hot.. and runs hot. Use track coolant.. (watterwetter, engineice.. etc) Dont use normal fluids, it doesn't work as well. KTM makes a fan kit for it. I recommend it otherwise you will probably boil your radiator over (depending where you live). 7. Boiling over your radiator onto the road? See #7 and maybe get a motion pro or similar coolant catch canister. 8. Have some spare fasteners laying around. (I did mention this thing shakes, right?) 9. The seat is a wooden plank. There are some options from www.fishersaddlebags.com/ or seatconcepts.com/ but they are ugly as f#%@ 10. I did get a bigger rear sprocket because I just wanted more low end launch. I can still go 100 MPH easily and it pulls hard up hills through 5th now.
  4. DTM Industries

    BRP sub mount kit

    7 reviews

    PRODUCT INFORMATION BRP Rubber Mounted SUB Mount DM-SUB for 350 SX-F 12-15 The BRP Rubber Mounted SUB "Scotts Under Bar" Adapter uses (8) Poly-Urethane bushings to isolate vibration and reduce rider fatigue by softening the harsh spike of hitting square edge rocks and obstacles. NOW available with two different durometer bushings to fine tune the amount of vibration dampening. BRP RUBBER MOUNTED SUB KIT INCLUDES: 1) BRP Rubber Mounted SUB Adapter 1) Scotts Bolt on Tower (Frame Bracket) 2) Sets of Rubber Bushings - (Red = Medium and Blue = Soft.) & All Necessary Hardware. This SUB mount assembly is designed for those of you who have a Scotts stabilizer and would like to go sub mounted. Kit includes Sub adapter and necessary hardware. Designed to mount a Scotts stabilizer below the handlebar using your OEM cast or billet triple clamp. The BRP Rubber Mounted SUB adapter mounts to the existing rear bar mount holes and allows you to run in position 3 which is the most common and popular position. SUB Mounting a stabilizer offers several benefits over a conventional "above bar" setup and is becoming a very popular setup for GP's, motocross, off road applications and riders of taller stature. * Offers an approximately 1" taller bar position * Lower Bend Bars can be used to compensate for additional height. * SUB Mounting reduces the risk of bodily injury * Stabilizer is tucked away and protected from potential damage from a crash. BRP is an authorized Scotts Stabilizer Dealer and Service center with an extensive knowledge of stabilizer mounting applications. We have a complete line of stabilizer mounting applications and replacement parts. When it comes to service we offer complete service on all Scotts stabilizers.
  5. dukeryder

    Yamaha YZ250F (2006)

    0 comments

    Wish I bought a 250F years ago! Love this thing! I'm not a MX racer but a like light bikes for trail riding and the 250F works perfectly. The 250FX is probably where it's at, as this bike's gearing isn't quite wide enough for the fast/open stuff. Riding on some of the 2 track and roads near Moab UT I found myself pinned in 5th a lot. The suspension is great stock, the fork is a little on the stiff side for my liking but I'm swapping to lighter springs and will opt for a revalvle if it's still too harsh but for a MX bike it works really well as is on the trails.
  6. jbird710

    Honda CR500R (2001)

    5 comments

    2002 CRF450R frame with a 2001 CR500R engine. TJ Elsinore graphics and plastics, DNA wheels and hubs, full Hinson clutch and basket, PC pipe and silencer, VForce 3 reed valve and reeds, BRP triple clamps (20 degree offset), EBR valved and resprung suspension, Scotts Steering Dampner (under bar mount), and RC Suzuki High Bend Pro Taper bars. Completely stock motor (at this time).
  7. DTM Industries

    Yamaha YZ450F (2006)

    0 comments

    The bike engine is stock, TBT racing suspension set up for my wait ,desert and sand dune riding , Scott's BRP sub mount kit, FMF mage bomb header and factory 4.1 muffler ,over sized front rotor kit, cryra bark busters, Mylers radiators , custom radiator's brace fabed from Moose racing brace , enduro engineering rotor fin, Moose racing cluch basket,Russell front brake line, Scorpion racing 3/16 skid plate, and more parts too come soon
  8. 2 reviews

    With over 10 years experience in design, testing and racing we are an industry leader when it comes to triple clamps. We have the experience of working closely with several top level teams and riders to develop a line of triple clamps that offer improved ergonomics, handling and ease of mounting Scotts and GPR stabilizers. Rest assured when you are running a BRP triple clamp setup you are running the very best. Generally you have several options available when selecting a triple clamp such as Solid or Rubber Mounted Bar Mounts (Most models) Bar Clamp Configuration (Moto, SX, Scotts or SUB Mount) Bar Mount Handlebar Size (7/8" or 1 1/8") Bar Mount Height (1.240", 1.360", 1.640") Bar Position (Relative to Stem "RTS") Special Offsets (Available for certain models only) BRP triple clamps are the only triple clamps on the market that are exclusively designed for mounting a stabilizer. We have the ability to mount a stabilizer on most late model mx, off road, dual-sport, super moto and adventure bikes including mini's. BRP triple clamps are manufactured to the highest quality standards from 6061-T6 billet aluminum making our triple clamps far stronger than the OEM units and comparable in weight. Finished in our signature black anodize. Bar Clamp and Bar Mount Configurations We offer 4 different bar mount configurations; Moto, SX, Scotts and SUB Mount. The Moto, SX and Scotts bar mount configurations are available for both 7/8" and 1 1/8" bars and the SUB Mount is only available for 1 1/8" bars. Handlebar adapters that allow 7/8" bars in 1 1/8" bar mounts are available for those of you who prefer running the standard 7/8" handlebar. Handlebar Position Options All triple clamps and bar mount configurations are different. At BRP most of our triple clamps offer a farther forward bar position than the OEM triple clamp. That along with the 3 lower bar perch height options and 3mm offset perches you have the ability to configure a handlebar position that works best for you. Along with the image on the right and the bar position charts located on our Bar Position Page, you should have all the information you need to select the bar position and height that best suits you and your preferred setup. Special Offset Clamps What is a triple clamp offset? Triple clamp offset is the distance measured between the centerline of the steering stem bore and the centerline of the fork bores (see image). Some models can benefit greatly from a reduced offset, by reducing the offset or moving the forks closer to the steering stem you change the weight characteristics on the machine which will give the front end a more planted feel and thus reduce wandering and pushing in the turns. The benefit is a great deal more confidence in the front end allowing you to corner better and charge harder.
  9. 2 reviews

    BRP THREADED BAR INSERTS... are a more secure mounting system for aluminum handlebars using wrap-around style enduro hand guards. They are sold as a self install kit that includes two inserts, two flathead bolts to mount your handguards , one 5/8-11 tap to thread your handlebars and an instruction sheet to guide you through the install procedure. BRP inserts install with a common hex key wrench and can be transfered from one bike to another. The basic concept of tapping the handlebar to accept the threaded insert works like a charm. By limiting the depth of the tapped handle bar you can tightly bottom out the threaded insert preventing them from loosening. The throttle side insert is apprx 1/4" longer to accomodate the throttle pipe. The tap comes marked so it is simple to tap your bars to the correct depth. The threaded bar insert is the most solid mount on the market at this time and outperforms anything else. SPECIAL NOTES: We recommend using red loctite on the insert to prevent it from coming loose. Azonic double wall and Renthal Twin Wall Handle bars are a larger ID than other aluminum bars and these inserts DO NOT fit these bars. These are the only 2 bars we have found that are not compatable at this time.
  10. Gumby302ho

    Still Pinging Curse

    The scoop, 2000 XRL 650/670(102mm) overbore with a 10 1/2 comp piston.Was told to fatten the mixture up to help get rid of pinging under full load(WFO). My bike already had 52 pilot 160 main, I was lucky I had ordered a few jets but was shocked it already had a 160 main. So I installed a 162 main as it was the last biggest one I had and my new 55 pilot jet was some shorter jet and did not match the 52 pilot so I did not put it in. So I am running 52 pilot/162 main, again the bike starts great, idles great, runs great but when wide open on full load the bike will ping badly, its like the last 1/4 of throttle before WFO it does it. I am at about 1200 ft above sea level. Would upping the pilot help the overall fuel circuit (richer). Should I keep going up on the main jet? What do you fellow BRP riders think I should do. The plug looked good when it had the 160 main in so I have not checked plug since the 162main. Also lost a little response out of stock carb when went to the 162main. This is starting to drive me nuts and I am scared there is not going to be an easy fix.
  11. dukeryder

    BRP Hand Guard Mounts

    2 reviews

    SPECIFICATIONS BRP Hand Guard Mounts are a perfect hand guard mounting solution when space is limited or when controls interfere with standard hand guard mounts. Also a great option for SUB Mounted applications. Made from aircraft aluminum and black anodized for a trick look. BRP Hand Guard Mounts have the same contour and shape as BRP & Scotts SUB Mounts.
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