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Found 25 results

  1. Axel43

    Scar Racing Clutch Cable Guide

    1 review

    DESCRIPTION Motocross Clutch Cable Guide Cnc Machined Eliminate the play on stock cable guide Lighter and stronger than OEM Colors: Blue / Red
  2. skaiter1007

    Honda CRF450X (2006)

    0 comments

    great bike, tons of power, dual sport capable (and mine is) a little on the heavy side, but i'll get used to it and stronger for controlling the beast that it is haha
  3. ThumperTalk

    Barnett Black Vinyl Throttle Cable

    1 review

    High quality black vinyl Black vinyl cables feature nylon lined, PVC coated castings in standard diameters Available in stock or custom lengths Made in the USA 90deg. Elbow
  4. ThumperTalk

    Barnett Black Vinyl Clutch Cable

    1 review

    Barnett cables are smooth working, long-lasting and are made with the finest components available, making them virtually indestructible Available in easy-pull high-efficiency design in standard diameters High-efficiency clutch cables reduce lever effort by up to 40% Made in the U.S.A. Stock Length (62in.)
  5. DarkCRF

    Honda CRF250R (2011)

    0 comments

    Very like the ease to innitiate to this bike. Good suspension setup, nice handling but a little lack in power. I upgrade it throught the years with this : Suspension : Stiffer .46kg/mm Factory Connection fork springs, Factory Connection lowering link, thicker FF5 Factory Connection oil in the HSSD. So the bike is now more stable without sacrifying is handling Engine : C4MX ported cylinder head, Pro Circuit camshaft and complete valvetrain, Yoshimura RS4 full exhaust, Moto Tassinari Air4orce, TUF 43mm Throttle body insert, EBC HD clutch spring, Twin air filters, PC racing Pro seal, removed backfire screen with a remaped ECM by Eddie Sisneros. I have now a better response, strong power everywhere with a lot of overrev. Control : Renthal twinwall handlebar, Zeta rubber killer, Zeta fold back lever, Motion pro revolver throttle system, Motion pro grips, Tusk footpegs. Drive : DID VT2 Xring chain, Supersprox stealth 48 teeth rear sprocket, Supersprox 13 teeth front sprocket, Zeta axle blocs. Body : Custom plastics mix, Custom graphic kit, Factory FX B4 seat cover, Cycra full armor skid plate, Work connection Holeshot device, Work connection Radiators braces, Black rims, Red anodized look hubs, Michelin tire, Moose spokes set, Zeta, breather, clips, plugs, washer and cap. With all this upgrade the bike became a real beast on the track.
  6. Required Tools: Cable lube, cable lubing tool, 8mm T-handle or socket, 10mm box-end wrench. CLUTCH CABLES STEP 1: Start by spinning the quick adjuster on the clutch perch inward to increase the amount of cable free-play. By doing this you will reduce the overall tension of the cable, making the process of pulling the cable out of the clutch perch a snap. STEP 2: Now that the cable has plenty of free-play (slack), align the slot in the adjuster with the slot in the perch so that the cable will be able to slide through the clutch perch. With one hand, grab the cable and pull it in the direction away from the perch. With your other hand, pull the clutch lever back to the bar and release it quickly, snapping it out. A couple snaps of the clutch lever may be necessary to pop the cable free. After sliding the cable through the lined up slots and out of the perch, the ball at the end of the cable should easily pull out of the clutch lever. STEP 3: Install your cable-lubing tool onto the end of the cable between the cable housing and the cable ball. Your cable-lubing tool will have a larger diameter hole on one end, which is designed to butt up against the cable housing. Now that the lubing tool is in place, stick the cable lube spray nozzle into the hole on the lubing tool and spray lube until you see it run out of the cable housing at the opposite end of the cable near the clutch cover. STEP 4: Now that your clutch cable is nicely lubed, the final step is to put the assembly back together. Start by pushing the ball back into the lever. Next, be sure that the slots on the quick adjuster and the perch are still lined up, and slide the cable back through the perch. To easily get the cable housing back into its home on the clutch perch, follow the same procedure that you used to pop it out. Again, this is done by pulling the cable in the direction away from the perch and snapping the clutch lever until it pops into place. Finally, turn out your quick adjuster to take out the free-play until it feels right for you. THROTTLE CABLES A push-pull style four-stroke throttle is used in this example. The same principles will apply when lubing the throttle cable of a two-stroke, but only one cable will be present, making the process even easier. STEP 1: Start by using a 10mm box-end wrench to loosen the adjuster screw located on the outer side of the throttle housing. STEP 2: On a four-stroke, be sure to pay close attention during this step to how the two cables are routed through the housings and attached to the throttle tube. Remove the two 8mm bolts that hold the two halves of the throttle housing together. Pull the housing halves apart to expose the cables, again paying close attention to their routing. Next, pull the cable balls out of the throttle tube. It’s usually best to leave the throttle tube and housing on the bar during this step as you may not have enough free-play in your cables to slide it off the end of the bar. Forcing it off could cause binding and/or damage to the cables. STEP 3: Now that the cables are disconnected from the throttle tube, pull out the throttle guide (present only on a four-stroke), and remove each cable from their housing. Now that your cables are completely removed from the throttle housing, follow the same steps as found in “STEP 3” of the clutch cable procedure for the lubing of each cable. Note: Before spraying the lube it is best to remove the cables from the carburettor to prevent the excess lube from settling on the diaphram. STEP 4: The final step is to reassemble the throttle mechanism. Lay the first cable over the throttle guide and slide the guide into the housing. The guide should slide with little effort and will butt up against the throttle housing. Repeat this process with the second cable by laying the cable over the cable guide first, and then slide the guide into the second half of the housing. Now that the two sides of the housing are pressed back together, the cables must be rerouted and fastened to the throttle tube. The cable on the right side of the throttle housing (closest to the brake reservoir) will wrap around the side of the throttle tube. The cable on the left side will wrap around the opposite side of the housing. Secure the housing halves back together with your 8mm, but leave them somewhat loose. Push the throttle tube until it bottoms out into the bar end and then back it out just a fraction of an inch so that the tube does not bind up against the end of the bar. Once you find the proper placement of the tube, securely tighten the 8mm bolts. Finally, adjust the free-play, if necessary, out of the throttle cable with your 10mm box end on the throttle cable adjusting bolts to your liking.
  7. ThumperTalk

    Motion Pro Revolver Throttle Cable

    1 review

    Replacement cable made by Motion Pro for Revolver Variable-Rate Throttle Kit
  8. ronbuell

    How To Rebuild Control Cables

    Last year I had some bad luck as I was working on my bike and found a broken throttle cable. Yamaha wanted like $40 for a new set, (and didn't have them in stock anyway) and I wanted to save the ride that day, sooooo, here goes. NOTE: I own a MIG welder, so this was easy. I went to the hardware store and found some round steel rod of approximately the same size as the end that came off my cable. The I took a 4" angle grinder with cutoff wheel and cut a slot for the cable to slide into. Taking the MIG, I grounded the rod, and set the heat and feed down slightly from a thin metal setting. I tacked the end of the cable first, check the position and then hit it again in the slot. Then I smoothed off the weld with the cut off wheel and cut the rod off at the appropriate length to fit the throttle wheel on the carb. All I had to do then was adjust the slack to install the cable and I was done. That was last year and the cable is still working fine. Since then, I've also been able to repair clutch cables in the same manner. AND... I've found a source for new inner cables: http://www.jagwireusa.com/index.php/products/mountain/499 My local mountain bikes store carries these and for less than $5.00 I can get a new inner cable and simply weld on a new end once cut to length. It's a great way to save money in these tight times!! Ride hard, reduce your cholesterol 30 points !!!
  9. Hey everyone, I now have 30hours on my 2013 250R and I'm having clutch problems. After a day at the track, my arm is almost unable to pull in the clutch lever. It is quite difficult. Currently everything is stock except I do already have a WC clutch perch/lever. This winter I want to work on making clutch pull easier using all the tips I've read on here. I plan to do the '09 tricks as well as the judder removal. Is the below an accurate list of the parts needed: 2009 OEM Parts: 1. Lifter Lever (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-22810-KRN-730.html) 2. Cable Stay (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-50126-KRN-000.html) 2013 OEM Parts for Judder: 1. Remove two judder springs and replace last plate with standard size plate (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-22201-KRN-A10.html) Aftermarket Parts: 1. T3 Motion Pro Clutch Cable (for 2009 model since using ’09 lifter lever, stay, and routing) 2. Pro X Clearance Reducer Clutch Rod for ’13 model (http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/210/895/-/28192/Pro-X-Clearance-Reducer-Clutch-Rod) I assume I need the t3 clutch cable to be an '09 model since I'm going to '09 routing. Is the Pro X Clutch Rod worth it? Thanks all for the info that allowed me to plan this out.
  10. ThumperTalk

    Motion Pro T3 Clutch Cable

    4 reviews

    Proprietary high performance liner in the elbow increases cable efficiency and greatly increases cable life Tool-less adjuster with innovative swivel fitting allows quick and easy cable adjustments Tool-less adjuster has built in lubrication port with o-ring cover for easy, no mess maintenance All fittings and elbow are anodized billet aluminum construction Low friction seals keep dirt and water out delivering smooth, long lasting operation Stainless steel inner wire provides durability and additional smoothness Assembled with constant viscosity synthetic grease Made in the USA
  11. ThumperTalk

    Motion Pro Push/Pull Throttle

    1 review

    OEM-style cables are available in a wide variety of applications for most popular models Cables are nylon lined and use precise OEM component dimensions Terminator clutch cables are available for several models; wires in the outer casing are wound lengthwise instead of around the cable to eliminate compression and spongy clutch feel
  12. ThumperTalk

    Motion Pro Black Vinyl OE Clutch Cable

    2 reviews

    Black vinyl coil-wound housing Meets or exceeds OE quality Inner nylon sleeve for longer life and smooth operation Image is for reference only, actual product may vary
  13. ThumperTalk

    Motion Pro Black Vinyl Clutch Cable

    2 reviews

    Standard black vinyl housing Meets or exceeds OEM quality Premium chrome fittings
  14. Eric Landmark

    Yamaha YZ250F (2008)

    0 comments

    Bought the bike for 1800 Oct. 2013 with 20 hrs on it. <br />Had qs3 <br />moose adj fuel screw<br />No-Toil Power flow kit<br />Renthal chain Blue Sprockets<br /><br />I have added so far:<br />Graphics off ebay $40<br />My old racing number plates I kept from previous bike<br />Fly rim decals $30<br />Attack Pleated grip seat cover $40<br />Stainless steel oil filter $17.88<br />Black Pro Taper Contour Bars<br />Two Extra Air Filters <br /><br />I have but need to Install:<br />Blue Silicon Radiator hose kit: $12.06<br />Motion Pro T3 Clutch Cable: $37<br />Billet Hot Start Nut: $13.95<br />2010-14 Genuine Yamaha Front Fender (new in package) $20<br /><br /><br />On the list to get:<br />Hot Cams<br />Aftermarket Exhaust<br />Tires<br />Asv Levers<br />
  15. Raybo

    Honda CR125R (1997)

    0 comments

    Bought recently for $850, mostly ready to ride, a few after market parts and a few from other year CRs. Lots of power mid and high, good suspension, pipey of course.
  16. Hondaguy38

    Honda CRF150F (2004)

    0 comments

    Reliable, simple, fun, not bad suspension but not the greatest. The rear shock is worse than the forks. Has good potential though but definitely not track bike in stock form.<br />Uncorked it really makes a noticeable difference in power and just breathes a lot better.
  17. tomatocity

    Spare Clutch Cable

    Before your current clutch cable breaks, purchase a new clutch cable and install it next to the current, now spare, clutch cable. Leave the spare clutch cable in place. Lightly lube the spare clutch cable. Seal the ends of the spare clutch cable with shrink wrap or another method you think of. If you break a clutch cable while you are on the road you are just 15-20 minutes away from being back on the road. This will keep you from terrorizing your transmission with clutchless shifts.
  18. FlashGordon

    Repair a broken clutch cable

    Broke the clutch cable at the upper lever while on an extended ride far away from home. A friend had a great idea I'd like to pass on. We pulled out the cable from the sleeve, and inserted it backwards so the lead coupling could be used in the upper lever. The sheared end of the cable was now at the bottom by the lower lever attached to the clutch disengage shaft. We used a small bolt and nut with 3 washers and pinched the cable between the washers, with the bolt going through the part of the lower lever where the swedged cable normally attaches. 1 or the 3 washers was slid between the upper and lower tabs of the lower lever, so it would not smash the tab when tightened. Worked great for the 3 days I was there.
  19. LiamRM212

    Clutch grabing

    So, here's a problem I've never heard of before. When I go and shift into first gear the bike tries to take off on me. When I try to stop in gear, if I don't give it a good rev, it will stall. What do you guys think is wrong? I'm happy to specify on any questions you guys have for me. Thanks.
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