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Found 28 results

  1. Hi , seem to be having issues with my Gas gas txt 280 stalling when turning left down hill in trials sections ( going slow) . Carb is clean and jetted well . Any ideas?
  2. Hi, I already posted about this a few months ago. I wasn't sure what the best option was to upgrade my pretty stock DRZ400sm (only has aftermarket exhaust for now). I'm definitely going to be doing the 3x3 mod in the next few weeks but I'm still hesitating between buying a JD jet kit for the stock Mikuni carb or buying a used fcr39. I have 2 questions the answers of which should help me decide. On the local classified, there is currently a 2002 ktm 400 exc FCR39 for sale for much cheaper than the price of the kit on TT (also I'm in Europe so anything I buy on this website is going to be really expensive to ship my way). Does anyone know if the 2002 exc had FCRMX or the older model? Will it fit the DRZ? If I decided to pull the trigger on a used FCR39 (mx or not), are you guys aware of anyone doing a decent conversion kit? On TT I only see the entire kit including the carb, that I would obviously not need if I got a used one. Thanks!
  3. fatpastyhead

    KTM SX 50 Carb Help

    Wondering if someone could help me or at least point me in the right direction. My son's SX50 was running absolutely fine until at the track last week when it started cutting out. I was having to keep the throttle blipped to keep the bike started and on other occasions, blipping the throttle would cause it to bog down instead. The bike has good solid compression, I've taken the carb off and cleaned it as well as the throttle cable line. Checked the plug and cleaned the air filter. The bike also starts with no issues at all. At this stage I'm thinking it has to be something to do with the carb. I'm just wondering, does someone have the stock settings for the idling screw and the brass screw? The brass screw was out 6 turns and the idling screw was out 5. I'm hoping its a stock carb and I can revert it back to factory settings. Thanks Edit: I have just checked the reed valves and they appear to be fine. It has VForce3 reeds and a Delloro carb fitted. I have also just removed and cleaned all the jets in the carb. It looks super clean. Completely out of ideas now.
  4. Supermotofool

    Stall At Hard Stop

    This is a battle I have fought ever since I got my bike. I have had the carburetor rebuilt, also re-jetted with a JD Jet kit. I have the 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet, and blue needle on the 3rd clip. 3X3 mod, yoshi exhaust, and this is on the BSR36 carb. When the bike gets warm, when I come to a very hard stop the bike slowly drops in revs and dies out. I am trying to get better at stoppies, and every time I put the back wheel down the engine is already dead. I cant progress any further unless I get this issue fixed. I have gone through all the vacuum lines, made sure there is no fueling issues up until the carburetor. I have pulled the bowl off many times thinking that the float is stuck and I have never found it stuck. If anyone has any ideas of what it could be, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks everyone!
  5. BlindBeard

    Breather/Vacuum tubes after carb upgrade

    Hey everyone. The forums have been invaluable since I bought this little TTR but I've come across a problem I couldn't search my way out of. It's an '03 ttr125L I bought for $500 non-running. Kid I bought it from tried to use a knockoff carb and couldn't get it to run right, and ended up breaking the intake boot (the carb to cylinder rubber connector). It had good compression and seemed ok so I layed it down in the back of my dad's ford exploder (I DD a miata at the moment) and took her home. Once I got the genuine mikuni and the new intake boot it fired right up. Although it was revving like crazy with the choke in at the time, that's not what I'm asking about here, as that seems to have stopped happening. On the new intake manifold there is a brass fitting. When I plug this, the bike won't run or dies if it is already running. I also had no idea what that pink hose on the right is for, so I got an adapter and connected that to the brass fitting because why not? Same result unfortunately. Right now I'm running it stock from Niche Cycles, a 40 pilot jet, 150 main jet, needle in the second position down, air screw is 1.0 turn out. I'm about 160' ASL and it's like 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit right now. There is a small amount of plastic cut out of the airbox, not a lot though. I'm pretty sure the pipe is stock, there's a Pro-Circuit T4 can on the pipe. Should I leave the brass fitting unplugged? What does that pink hose on the left side of the carb actually go to if that's not it?
  6. jaydawg27

    Choppy TT-R225, Need Help

    Hey I need some mechanical help from someone please. I have an old 2002 TT-R225 that I bought for my son to learn to ride on and ever since I bought it, well over a year ago it has never been right. When we first got it, it would ride choppy and the exhaust pipe would get cherry red, so I took it to a mechanic (friend of a friend) who cleaned out the carb and tuned it all up for me and stated it was in good working order. My buddy and I took it to the mountains and of course it didn't ride right. Lucky for us there was a mechanic up there who checked out the electrical and said the Stator was bad and needed to be replaced, so I took it back to the other mechanic and he replaced the stator and gave it a thumbs up. Went to ride it and surprise, surprise, it still wasn't right as it pops and sputters when you give it gas and didn't go more than 10 miles an hour. This time I took it to another mechanic who works on my other friends bike that he races hoping to get better results, like the first mechanic he took the carb apart and cleaned it out and replaced a few broken parts and jets. Gave it a thumbs up. Both he and my friend rode it and said it was good to go. I went and picked it up this weekend and to no surprise, when I rode it, it wasn't right. My friend was dumb founded. So here is the thing and my questions. If I am going down hill, or even on a straight away, it feels fine, but as soon as there is an incline or I give it too much gas it starts to sputter and pop and looses power. If I very very slowly give it gas it will get up to speed, but as soon as I give it too much or too fast it sputters, pops, and acts stupid. Also when I turn it off, it always shuts down with a loud pop out the exhaust. I am of the thought that this is no longer a carb issue but rather something else isn't tuned properly. With my limited knowledge it feels to me that the spark isn't hitting at the right time, or that the throttle is bad. Is it possible that when the Stator was replaced, it wasn't tuned or timed properly??? Anyone have any thoughts because at this point my wife wants me to just sell it, but I don't want to simply on principal now, LOL. Either my son is going to learn how to ride on this bike, or I am going to learn to work on motorcycle engines on this bike, but either way I dont see me selling it until I conquer what's wrong with it. Thanks.
  7. Hey guys I've been using the forum for advice for a long time, usually just searching but I've created a weird enough problem for myself I had to make an account and post. I have a 1998 WR400, bought it used and abused. Last season I got her running well enough, drilled the exhaust, and opened up the air box but didn't change anything else. Getting it ready for this season I was getting into it and found that the slide in the stock carb was cracked, and the inside was all gummed up. After a bit of searching it sounded like the consensus was that you can just throw a WR450 carburetor in no problems. So I bought this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-WR-400-F-WR400F-Carburetor-Carb-1998-2000-NEW/123166146174?hash=item1cad463e7e:g:hmcAAOSwZKBZJcS1:sc:USPSPriority!93446!US!-1 and popped her in. I blocked off the old hot start hole with some vacuum plugs but I cant get it to start for the life of me. I've tried kicking it a billion times with settings on the fuel screw from about 1/4 to 2, with no success. I did get it to start once at about 1.5 turns, but it died fairly quickly and I couldn't replicate it. I threw a new plug and air filter in as well, but no other changes. Anyone able to point out what stupid thing I'm doing?
  8. New to all of this currently my bike (xr200r) is jetted for high altitude being in Colorado but I'm moving back to sea level cape cod. a new carb is less than 30$ so I'll probly just do that rather than have to rejet every year i go out and it old anyways. But what's the thought on this just adjust the fuel air screw or what i was also trying to ride a few spots close to i80 omw home if anyone has any ideas on that.
  9. Nicturner

    Carb issues

    Hi fellow thumpers, firstly if there is other threads on this topic I apologize. i have a 2009 KTM 450 exc. I live at 5500 feet. I have a keihin carb. I currently have it set up with green needle (jd kit) @ 4th from the top main #175 pilot #42 in setting it up for some desert riding I plan on doing next month (LAB2V). Right now I’m getting a bog if I rack the throttle a few times. I’m reading this is semi normal as the accelerator pump has a hard time refilling. i have put a new diaphragm, spring, lean jet is at #40 and air fuel acre 1 and 1/8 out. im planning on going back to 172 main, red needle 5th from the top and #45 pilot. i normally ride the trails around lake arrowhead and Big bear in California. The trails are single track from 5000-10000 feet. Anyone see any issues with either set up? how about the big if I get on it a few time ( not really noticeable when riding) sorry for the questions. This is my first carb I’ve ever worked on. Thanks in advance
  10. A tiny clear rubber tube on bottom of carb. On bottom sort of on side, by floats, the other end just hanging down. Was it always like this? Or does the other end go somewhere? Today after multiple trys with kick, choke on/off ,,,fuel keeps pouring out the tube. This bike has always been hard to start. Thanx guys!
  11. I have cleaned the carburetor, replaced ignition coil, replaced spark plug, drained fuel and put in fresh, installed new intake manifold, installed fuel filter, cleaned tank, changed and oiled air filter, changed battery, adjusted air/fuel ratios and more I'm sure I'm forgetting. But my 1994 DR350 continues to idle extremely rough and most of the time it will only stay running if in full choke. I could keep buying kits and parts but I'm very interested in simply replacing the carb completely as it seems someone has messed with it before. The ones online are insanely expensive, so if someone could offer a decent price for one I would be very grateful. The bike ran perfect when I bought it and I rode it extensively, this issue happened two days after I sold it to my brother, OF COURSE!!! So now I feel guilty and have been working at it for days and nothing is making the slightest difference. Please help, riding season is just starting in my area and I don't want my brother to miss out.
  12. Alex Seprish

    2003 cr250 carb issues

    Hey Guys, (READ EDIT) I made a post on this before and I had thought I figured it out but.. I didn't. So, I have a 2003 cr250 and it has a keihin Pwk 38mm AS (I think), vforce 3 reeds and cage, a stock fatty, and a powercore 2,the guy I got it off of said it had a wiesco top but I have never really look at the piston tho. My problem is I think the carb may be fake, because I got the carb on the bike when I got it and I cant seem to make it have power with that carb. I have the carb jetted with a 45 pilot 175 main and clip position 3, I believe the slide is a #7 but im not sure and i dont really think that matters tho. I cant really get it to have all its power and when you hit the throttle at first it wont rev but when you let off and go back on it will(in neutral). The carb I got with it has a cereal # but it is lazered on not stamped, Im not sure if that means anything, and the slide looks real because it has a keihin mark but when I put the carb off my brothers 95 cr250 it runs great, the 95 carb has a 55 pilot ,clip 3 ,185 main but if i jet my carb like that the bike runs like shit. with the 95 carb it has a lot more power and sometimes it wont rev but I think I could fine tune that. It could be my Rc valve but im not sure today I may either put a extra carb off a 95 cr i have lying around and try and jet it real good ,or the carb off my 97 rm250 which looks pretty much the same as my carb got with my cr just a little older, and the cereal # is stamped in. I put the video below that I used to tune my rc valve. and I will get pics later of my carb. . If you guys know anything any help would be appreciated. Thanks, (EDIT)I did aa little more testing and adjusted my Rc valve real good and have concluded it to carb and i think my 38 as is real but cand quite work out jetting or clip position and fuel air screw any help im at about 1500ft above sea.
  13. Hey all, I have run into an issue with my mikuni carburetor off of a 2001 DRZ 400. It was running rough (wouldn't idle with Choke or otherwise) after I left the bike sitting for about two months without draining the float bowl. I cleaned out the carb and the pilot jet was clogged. I cleared out the remaining jets and loosened the fuel screw to spray carb cleaner through the body. Being a complete novice, I forgot to write down the exact position of the fuel screw from closed. I reinstalled the carb and installed the fuel screw to what I thought was the original position and it runs super rich. It back fires multiple times every time I let off the throttle. The previous owner jetted the carb and left a hand written note with the following specs (see blurry picture ) 165 main 48 pilot 5th needle I am running at sea level and the bike has a Yoshimura slip on. Anyone with a similar setup how many turns are you running on your fuel screw??? I have had the carb on and off several times trying to get it right but to with no luck. Thank you to anyone who can help me with my current predicament
  14. Warwickbass

    87’ XR250R carbs over filling

    Hey guys, I’m new to the forum. I just picked up an 87 XR250R that needed some loving as it didn’t run. I did a top end rebuild as the cam chain jumped timing and bent some intake valves. That’s all sealed up now and I’m onto the carbs. My issues now are the carbs are getting over full to the point fuel is coming out the overflow port, then continuing to back up and come out the air box. The carbs were rebuilt by the previous owner who was unaware of the bent valves and thought it needed a carb rebuild. The floats are good, the needles seem to seat so I don’t think they are stuck open and they are new. Where else can gas be continuing to come from?? Are there any other areas in the carb which fill the bowl? I thought it was just the needles. Also unrelated to the carburetor, the decompression lever next to the kick doesn’t move when I kick the bike over, how is this actuated inside the crank case? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys
  15. Goon Rides

    2002 YZ 125 Carb Help

    Hey guys... so I have a problem... I took the bike at Cal City, broke it in, and while I was doing so, the bike was bogging in first gear (Yes, first gear). Also it doesn't idle at all. I have to keep blipping it otherwise it'll stall. So I adjusted the screw circled in image 1. Well I was listening to the sound of the of the bike, yet the rpm's weren't increasing, and it was still stalling. So then, I unscrewed the screw in image 2, well I found out that it was fully twisted to the right. So then, I twisted it to the left, still nothing; it was still stalling... where's the idle screw? I am sure that the screw in image 1 is for the air/fuel mixture screw, and the screw in image 2 is the idle screw, just broken? I don't know, any and every help would be appreciated.
  16. Carl Gipson

    96 xr400 carb/jetting help

    I have a 96 xr400, that is as far as I know stock. I just bought a white brothers e series exhaust and am trying to,find out if I need to reset the carb. Some threads say yes some say no. I am in louisville ky. and like to ride woods trail, no track riding. Can anyone tell me if I need to mess with the jets or leave them alone!!? Any help appreciated.
  17. YZ 250F

    03 crf450 wont start

    Hey guys, Ive got a 2003 crf450r. I bought the thing, didnt run, replaced the entire engine, except carb and transmission. I took it out to the track a few days ago, and after a short break i went to start it and it wouldnt start. So i broke it all down again. I have spark, compression, air and fuel. So i figured its valves... nope valves are perfect. So confused, i broke into the carb. The carb is totally clean as well, but it starts pouring gas out everytime i try to start it. Needle jet? Bad float? Im lost. Thanks guys
  18. Joe Waldron

    The 225 carb issue

    Ok, kinda new to tt, I have a 2001 ttr 225 and for the life of me I cannot get this thing to run right. Since the day I got it it bucked a little bit in the mid range. It idles great starts with choke on or off. And when I put it in gear and give it the tiniest bit of gas she rides fine but the second I move past roughly 1/4-1/3 throttle she bucking and cutting in and out. If I keep it very high rpms she takes off like a bag out of he'll but the mid range is not happy. I've tried upgrading muffler to fmf powercore 4, tried gutting airbox and now I've taken airbox completely off and am trying to run just a straight highflow air filter. My buddy riding behind.me says he can smell gas and occasionally gets sprayed with atomized gas if he's real close. That's why I tried opening up airflow thinking it was to rich. Any ideas are greatly appreciated
  19. Hello guys, I certainly appreciate all the help last time with the shift spindle. This time I'm looking for a joint,boot. The rubber boot between the carb and Reed cage. Or if another yaer model will fit? 92, 94? Any help or advice would be appreciated greatly!!
  20. kdweaver

    DRZ wont stay running

    I was riding the other day when my DRZ sputtered out. I pulled over and found the vacuum hose disconnected from the petcock. I reconnected it and rode home. Fast forward a few days, left the house and the bike sputtered out again. This time not only was the vacuum hose disconnected, it was gone! Pushed the bike a mile back home. Noticed the petcock leaking a little fuel and the smell of fuel in my oil. Ordered an OEM petcock, installed it, drained the oil and put in fresh oil. Installed a replacement vacuum hose. New spark plug. BIKE STILL WONT STAY RUNNING. It will start if I prime it but wont stay running, sputters out after a moment. Is it my carb? Could the vacuum hose coming loose while riding damage the internals of the carb? I drained the float valve, fuel stopped coming out after a moment. It was idling fine before all this. Fresh oil, new petcock, vacuum hose intact. I'm pulling the carb tomorrow. What should I be looking for? Thanks in advance.
  21. Dodging_roost

    2003 Honda CRF450 carb question

    OK so I tore down my carb on 03 CRF450 and by chance I took out the accelerator pump lever set. Now the problem that I have is I can't for the life of me find a diagram or video on how to put these pieces back together. Please help!
  22. I just bought this bike and decided to go through it and make sure everything was happy. I was cleaning out the carb today, following the great video posted by Rocky Mountain ATV MC. Everything was going great until I was cleaning the bowl with carb cleaner and noticed these two SMALL pieces in the bottom. I have no idea where these go. The service manual doesn't show them. The video doesn't mention them. Do you guys know where they belong? Thank you! Note: Fuel screw is just to show you relative scale of these pieces.
  23. Troy Shear

    DRZ400 FCR Carb Question

    Hey Guys, New here and new to a drz/carbs. I replaced a frayed throttle cable and put the gas line back on/everything back together. This thing has an FCR carb and I’m just not sure what this extra hose is at the top just above the choke. I’m not sure what if anything it was attached to either. Looked at diagrams and kind find anything matching lots of other carbs have nothing or a red adjustment knob. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  24. Cutlass4


    Hi, so I picked up a 2006 drZ400, it runs very smooth, very clean bike! It has a fmf pipe, other than that it’s stock. I have been trying to find solutions to this throttle snap Bog. I know that this bike is not suppose to Bog and die it you open the throttle quick. I can’t find the answer to this so I’m posting myself, wondering what size jets I need and if I need to change anything else. I know it can be fixed without buying a 500$ carb. Please help! And like I said it’s completely stock besides the pipe.
  25. I'm not really sure if the carb has a problem, but I'm suspicious. I have a 2011 Evo 200 2T, when test riding it the bike ran perfectly...started easily, went to idle from higher rpm right away & idled smoothly. That was after riding it around for a little while, so the engine was warmed up. The bike is from Denver and the seller said he had the carb set for high altitude, though he didn't know what had been done. Today I started it for the first time in a couple weeks, it started in one kick and ran at high idle while the choke was on...so far so good. After a very brief warm up I rode it for maybe a minute, when I stopped, I thought there may be a problem. It seemed to be idling a bit fast (choke off) and only slowly went to normal idle. While idling, it didn't run smoothly, it idled up & down in a cycle. Todays ride was at about 1K ft. but the bike is tuned for 5K ft. Also, the test ride was in 60 degree weather while today's ride was in below freezing weather. To adjust for altitude, would the carb need different jets, or just an air screw adjustment? What causes up & down idleing and how do I fix it? Is there really nothing wrong, the engine just wasn't warmed up enough?